(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Merideth: If you're looking for a massive style change with additional functional benefits for your 2007 to 2018 JK Wrangler, this Unpainted RedRock Avenger Heat Dispersion Hood will be a mod that you'll want to check out.Now, swapping the hood on your Jeep will undoubtedly make a statement, and this one will do a fantastic job at adding that aggressive and race-inspired look to your build. Not only will it drastically change the appearance, but the cowl and added venting will offer good heat dispersion if you're doing a lot of driving or you're driving off-road a lot and want to minimize heat soak and keep those engine temps down.While this will be a huge upgrade when it comes to style, this will feature functional details that make it well worth the investment. Now, in the center, you can't miss this large cowl with heat extractor venting on the side to help disperse heat, which is very important, especially on the JK models, which are notorious for heat soak.This will also feature an underhood insulation package to keep up and even exceed OE standards to cut out some of that engine noise and also to most importantly protect the finish on top from those high engine temps. Now, this will be durable with a stamped steel construction and will come in a black e-coat finish to allow you to paint match this to your JK. Now, keep in mind that you will have to prime and prep this hood before paint, which will be standard across the board for most hoods that you'll see, so nothing out of the normal here with this.Now, the vents, however, will be made of a durable plastic construction. Right now, this does have the mesh for the steel on the inside, but once you put on that vent, that is going to be made of a plastic construction, but you will also have the ability to paint those as well. It is paintable. Customers take advantage of that to add color to their color scheme and really kind of make the hood their own. Now, this also will be directly bolt-on, so best part of all, and you don't have to do any modifications. It is going to have a good fit, and you're going to be able to utilize the factory hinges and latches at the front of the hood, as well as your windshield wiper hoses or the fluid hoses there, so you don't have to worry about swapping anything out. Everything can just swap onto this hood, making it a very easy upgrade.Now, this will come in at about $850 when it comes to price. And compared to other hoods in the category, this is going to be on the more affordable side of the spectrum. Now, when taking a look at other options, most of your decision here when choosing a hood is gonna come down to the styling and how much heat extraction that you want or need for your build.Now, this one, in particular, is going to have a lot of heat dispersion aspects in the front or in the middle here and over on the sides. So, it's gonna be incredibly functional while also taking a huge statement in design, especially with that large cowl on top. Now, I think if you're in search of a way to make your Jeep stand apart and get some performance while not completely breaking the bank on a hood, then this is going to be a great pick.When it comes to install, this is gonna be a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you roughly an hour to get the job done with some pretty basic hand tools. Now, tools that you'll need will include an electric ratchet or a hand ratchet, a pry tool, a small pry bar, a T50 Torx, a 10 and an 8-millimeter socket, and some isopropyl alcohol. Now, speaking of the install, we're gonna head over to the shop and check out a detailed breakdown on how to get this onto your JK at home. So, that's gonna wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into it.Man: Today we are installing the RedRock Avenger hood for the 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler JKU. We have two minor differences on this install. One is that we have aftermarket hood latches that we're going to be replacing with a separate set of aftermarket hood latches, but the install on this is the exact same as the factory. You'll see no difference there. The second difference is that we have a farm jack mount on the hood hinges. Those will be removed and the factory bolts will be put back in so that install will be almost identical to what you see.The first step is to remove the washer hose from this rear nozzle located here, and then you're going to pull the rest of this hose out of the remaining two clips over there. Let that free hang. And after that, we will be removing this nut off this grounding strap, pulling this strap off, replacing the nut so that we don't lose it, and moving on to removing the hood.So, we'll pull this. From here, slightly twist, it will come off. We'll work our way around. Remove the washer hose from those clips. Set that aside to remove. And then we need to remove the nut on the grounding strap. it'll be a 10-millimeter. Break that loose, and you can undo it by hand. Pull that off. Let that thing go out of the way. And I just put the nut back on the post so that it doesn't get lost.The next step is to remove the four bolts on the hood hinge pin or hood hinges. This is one of the differences we were talking about earlier. We have the farm jack mounts rather than factory hood hinges. So, where these will be, I believe a T45. We actually have a 5-millimeter Allen, but we will be going back with the factory hood hinges and bolts at the end of this install. And we'll repeat the process on this side.Next is actually removing the hood from the Jeep. It's best to get an extra set of hands so that you don't drop it. You want to put it face down on a soft surface so that you can pull the hardware that you need to transfer to the new hood off of the old one without damaging anything. The next step would be to remove the factory hood. It'd be best to have a helping set of hands so that you don't damage it. You want to lay it down face down so that you have plenty of room to remove the factory hardware off of the old hood to transfer it to the new one.Next step is going to be to remove your factory hood latches and the factory hood spring and hood latch. You'll be reusing these. In our case, we are not reusing the hood latches because we're going with a different aftermarket style, but you would want to reuse this if you're going back with the factory. To start, the hood spring is gonna be an 8-millimeter. Remove that bolt, pull that spring off, set it aside so that we can reuse it with the hood latch or the hood catch, the lever, whatever you want to call it is a 10-millimeter. And again, we will set this aside. And both sides of your hood latches are 10-millimeter as well. And set your hardware aside so you can reuse those. And repeat the same thing on the other side.Step number five is to remove the clips that hold your washer fluid lines in. They're located here. You can use a plastic pry bar tool. I think this was $4 on Amazon. If you don't have one, you can also use a flathead screwdriver. These clips do have two little retaining clips on each side. That's what you would want to try to depress. That's why using one of these tools is better than a flathead, but flathead will still work. You'll want to set these aside to reuse them with your new clips.Okay. So, we flipped the new hood over to reinstall the factory hardware that we set aside earlier. We're going to put the spring on the left-hand side and the catch here in the middle. The spring will go back on with the 8-millimeter bolt. The latch will go back on with the 10-millimeter. You'll match up this little divot here with this little slot. We'll go into the square and then the hole should line up perfectly after that. Start an 8-millimeter bolt by hand. A couple of extra turns to make sure it's nice and tight. And then you will take the lever and, again, you'll match this little tab with the square on the new hood, and then the bolt hole should line up perfect from there. We'll be reusing the same 10-millimeter bolt that we removed from the factory hood. Secure it in place, make sure everything's nice and tight.Okay. The next step is to reinstall your factory hood latches. We are going with an aftermarket set so that'll look a little bit different. Just make sure you have the orientation right so your hood latches like it should, and you put it right back in the same locations on the new hood as they were in the old hood using the same hardware. Don't worry about tightening them down all the way, because you'll probably have to make adjustments to make sure the hood latches fit. But for now, finger-tight is good.Next step is to add the factory washer nozzle from the old hood to the new one. In the 2011, there is only one washer nozzle, and this hood has a spot for two. I'm sure with some custom engineering you can run two, but for now we're gonna put one back onto the driver's side like it was originally which, looking at from the underside, will be here. And that will give us plenty of room to connect this with the factory hoses. Make sure the nozzle is facing back towards what will be the windshield. Go in from underneath. Slide your factory wash nozzle back in place until it pops. Move it around, make sure it doesn't move. And then if you have to, you'll do the same thing on this side. We only have one, so we cannot do that.The next step says to clean the entire undersurface with isopropyl alcohol and get it prepped to stick the heat pads on. We are using a 70% isopropyl alcohol. We're going to wipe along any of the surfaces that are going to be touching the heat pads, then we'll peel the sticker backing off and get those adhered. When you lay this heat pad down, just make sure that it fits. It's pretty self-explanatory where it needs to go. It fits the lines really nice. Make sure you push it in tight, and it'll actually stretch to the contours of the hood. You shouldn't have any fitment problems. The cutouts line up almost perfectly with every cutout contour.On this last piece, you'll notice that there is an extra cutout on the side. This is going to be for your air box, cold air intake, whatever you might have, to allow clearance for that box. And I would suggest wearing gloves when you do this because it's extremely sticky. Using the 70% isopropyl alcohol, we're going to clean the side cutouts where the stick-on vent cover will go. This just gives us a clean surface to make sure that the double-sided sticky tape adheres well. While we let this side air dry, we'll do the other side.Now, before sticking on your side vents, I would lay them out to make sure that you get them on the right side. They will only go on one way. The way that the hood lines up, you can't get it messed up, but it never hurts to make sure you have the right pieces in the right spot. And you just peel the cover of the double-sided sticky tape off. And start in one corner and work your way around. Hold it in place for just a few seconds, working it all the way around, and do the same thing on the other side.So, the next step is to take the hood, put it back onto the Jeep, align the hinges, and install the Torx bolts. And then we'll line everything up and make sure it fits. Now we're going to reinstall the Torx bolts onto the hood. We're going to do these loosely, finger-tight first to make sure we get everything threaded in. Do the same thing on the other side. Loosely thread them with my hand and see if you need to make any adjustments to the hood to make them go down any smoother if you don't want to bind anything up this close to the end.Our last step once we have the hinges bolted down is check for operation of our hood latches, and so they work, and to connect our washer line to the sprayer. The hood prop location is in the same spot it was on the factory. It's a little hidden because of the heat shield. If you let it rest on there it'll kind of give you an outline of where you can cut. We are going to cut this. We're going to give it a couple of days so that the heat can absorb and form better so we don't have a mismatched cut, but that's where the hood prop will go.Then you take the washer line and reconnect it to your sprayer nozzle, and then your washer line out of the way. And then take the two factory washer hose clips. There's a spot here for one, another spot here. And you can run that hose on both of those locations. Unfortunately, hangs a little odd, but there is no other location to put those clips back in. Once you get your clips mounted into these factory locations, you can pull your slack, rotate your nozzle just a little bit, run this hose all the way through both factory clips, tie your excess down here up and out of the way. You don't have any slack hanging. Then just check for operation. Make sure your hinges operate smoothly.And if you have any areas that don't match up with your body lines, the instructions say to massage the actual hood itself. So, slowly put pressure then pull wherever you need to match your body lines. Ours worked out pretty well so we're not going to go that route, but you can slowly work your way down if you need to match up with either the grille, the fender, or up here in the corners on your cowls.Merideth: So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and the install of this Unpainted RedRock Avenger Heat Dispersion Hood, fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. And remember, for all things Jeep, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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