Review & Install Video
Hey guys, Sara from extremeterrain.com, and today we have a review and install of the Power Stop Z36 Extreme Truck & Tow brake pad and rotor kit for the front and rear. This kit will fit all '07 through '18 Jeep Wrangler JKs. This is a complete front and rear brake pad and rotor kit designed for both on and off-road performance. If it's time for brakes or if you're like many Jeep owners who've upgraded their wheels and tires, this is a great choice. Coming in at about $380, this is a budget-friendly way to upgrade your pads and rotors all around. I'm giving this install a two out of three wrenches, it can be done in approximately 2 hours with basic hand tools. All right, let's jump right into our install.
For this install you will need a caliper tool, a caliper hanger. Cutters. A flat-head screwdriver. A pick. A skinny 15-millimeter wrench. A half-inch drive ratchet. 13-millimeter socket. 21-millimeter socket. An 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. And some optional but helpful tools include a breaker bar and a rubber mallet.
We have our Jeep on the lift and we removed the wheel, so the first step in our uninstall is going to be removing this caliper. But before we do that, you may notice you have these retaining washers on each of your studs, usually one or two. We do need to remove these and now is a good time. You're just gonna grab a pick tool or a flathead to take these off. It is worth noting that you're going to damage these coming off, however, they are one-time use from the factory just to keep this rotor on during assembly, so you do not need to reinstall them.
Grabbing our pick tool, we're just gonna pry behind here. If it's not sliding off of your stud nicely, which it might not, this is at what point you might wanna grab cutters, or needle-nose pliers, and either pry it off or just cut it off since we're not gonna reuse it. If you've done your brakes before, you'll likely not have these, but if this is your first time, there's a good chance you'll run into it.
So now we can remove our caliper. We're gonna need a skinny 15-millimeter wrench and a 13-millimeter socket. The wrench is just gonna hold the side of the slider in place so that, when we're turning this bolt out, it doesn't also turn our slider. Now we're gonna do the same thing for the bolt on the underside. For this step, when we're moving our caliper, you're gonna want to grab a caliper hanger tool, or a bungee cord, something to help pull it out of the way so it's not hanging by our brake line. The caliper should come off nicely, but if it doesn't, you can always pry a little bit just to get it loose. And once it does break loose, it should come off.
With our caliper out of the way, we can now remove the bracket. You can do this by removing the two 21-millimeter bolts holding the caliper bracket to the back of the knuckle. Something you might wanna do but don't have to is removing this ABS sensor line from this bracket because it does kind of get in the way of our top bolt. This is fairly simple, you can do it by hand just pulling it out of its little hanger and tucking it away so we don't damage it. Now we can remove our top bolt. We're just going to break both of these loose, since we're using a larger tool, and then we can come back in with a smaller ratchet just for space constraints. With our bolts out, we can now remove the caliper bracket.
With our caliper bracket off, our rotor is now free and we can take that off, however, ours doesn't really seem to wanna come off easily so we might have to tap it a little bit with a rubber mallet. If you'd wanna do that, you do need to put a lug nut or something else on to hold it, just in case, we don't want it to come flying off and hit us or anyone else. But with a lug nut on there, once we get it free, it should catch it. Just give it a couple taps in the opening, or the dust shield, right in this area. Hopefully, just a few will come off.
Now that we have our pads and rotors off of our Jeep, we can put them side-by-side with our new pads and rotors and check out some of the similarities and differences. Right out of the gate, you will notice that our new rotors are drilled and slotted for additional cooling and our pads feature a ceramic compound to reduce noise and dust. Altogether, these will provide about a 20% increase in braking performance.
All right, we can now install our rotor on our Jeep. It is worth noting that these are not only front-and-back specific but side-to-side specific as well because of the pattern of the drilling and slotting. Something helpful though is that they have labeled each one of them, so we're grabbing the one that says "Front passenger side" and throwing it on our Jeep. At some point during this install, before you drive your Jeep, you do want to spray down this rotor really nicely, front and back, with Brakleen just to remove all the oils from the factory. They do this just so that while the kit is sitting on the shelf, it does not rust, but now that we have it installed, we do wanna clean that up. One more thing that I will do is we're gonna put a lug nut on here because we do have to prep our caliper bracket a little bit, we don't want this to fall off while we're doing that.
Our next step is prepping this caliper bracket to go back on our Jeep. The first part is gonna be removing these two brake pads, and then the subsequent metal clips that are holding them in, as well as these sliders, and we're gonna have new boots and lube everything up, and then it can go back on our truck. So we're gonna remove these brake pads by just grabbing them and squishing them in. If that doesn't work, you can gently tap them but they should come out like this. These should come out by hand. If not, you can use a flathead or a needle-nose to just coerce them out.
With our metal brackets off, we can just take a look at these, they look pretty decent on our caliper bracket, but if yours look a little gummed up, you can take a wire brush and just clean up this inside here. But we are gonna go ahead and install our metal clips, grabbing the one that has this curved edge on the outside and the larger tab towards the bottom. Can also look at the orientation of the ones that came off, if you're not sure. Same thing on the other side, but our curved bracket tab is up top here and our larger tab's on the bottom. We do wanna put this not curved tab up top first, and then our curved tab should pop over the bottom just to make it a little bit easier on you.
Finally, we're gonna remove the two sliders, as well as the boots, because we have new boots provided to us with this kit. All you need to do here is just grab and pull and the entire thing should just pop right out, and then remove the boot off of our slider. You will need to relubricate this when it goes back on. I'm gonna grab the boots first and put them over top of these two ridges here. I just think this is a little bit easier than trying to wrestle them over the sliders. And then, we can slide our slider in here and that should just pop right on when we're ready. Grabbing our grease packet that's been provided for us. Definitely feel free to grease the inside of the boot. I'm gonna grease the slider because a lot of it does come off when you put it in this boot. As long as you have a well-lubricated slider, and you can definitely test it out when we're done, that's all the goal is here. So however you like to do it is fine. If there is a little bit of grease on your slider from stock, that's okay, you can completely clean it if you want. We can now slide the boot over our slider and just test to make sure. That looks pretty good to me. Repeating the process with the other slider. With our slider grease, we can now insert it back into the caliper bracket and into the boot. Help the boot over the end of the slider. So we do want to double-check that our slider is functioning, which it is, looks good to me. And now we can move on to the next step.
They also want you to put a little bit of lubricant either on these two tabs of the brake pad or in these channels right here. I'm gonna put it in the channels right here. The goal here is just to make sure that the brake pad can slide forward and back as you're applying the brakes. Can grab our brake pad and position it in the caliper bracket. We do wanna make sure that the feeler is on the inside. May take a little finagling to get it to go where it wants to go. Gonna do the same thing to the other side. And again, we just wanna double-check that the pad can move freely in here, because if not, it could get hung up, and then it's gonna wear unevenly, and try as best as you can not to touch the inside of the pads. We did a little bit but we do have gloves on.
With our caliper bracket prepped, we can now get it back on our Jeep. Make sure the pads go over each side of the rotor nicely and that it's lined up in the back with our bolt holes. Grabbing our 21-millimeter factory bolts, just gonna get started the one on the top to hold this in place. Grabbing our 21-millimeter, we can now tighten these down.
Now that our brake caliper is about to go back on our Jeep, we will need to compress it in a little bit using this brake caliper tool. Unhang it off of your Jeep, line up your tool, and we're gonna compress our piston back into the caliper just enough to be able to get it over our rotor and pads. With our piston compressed into our caliper enough to go over the rotor and pads, slide it back on to our Jeep, line the two bolt holes up with the sliders, and we can put our bolts back in. Lining up the back of our caliper with our slider, we can rethread our bolt. With our caliper on and bolted down, we do wanna double-check torque specs, and then we can replace our sensor into this bracket. Now we can replace our ABS sensor wire into its bracket. With our passenger side complete, repeat that same process on our driver side, and then we can hop to the rears.
Now that we are at the rear, we do see another retaining washer on here, you do wanna remove that. This time is a great time to get into it. Using a pick or flathead, we're just prying it off enough to be able to get a cutters or a needle-nose on here. Again, you are going to destroy this coming off but you don't need to reuse it. Using the same method as the front, we're gonna grab our skinny 15-millimeter wrench and a 13-millimeter socket and remove the caliper from the bracket. The 15-millimeter wrench holds the slider from spinning while we loosen the bolt at the back.
With our caliper bracket bolts out, we can grab our hanger, or bungee cord, whatever you have, pull our caliper off and hang it. Should be able to wiggle this loose, but if not, grabbing something, a small pry bar should just give it enough oomph to come off. Now we do wanna hang it, make sure that our brake line doesn't have any tension on it and it's out of the way.
Grabbing an 18-millimeter wrench, we can now take the two bracket bolts off. If the slider is really in your way, you can take that out. Ours is kind of in the way but we work around it. Moving on to our top bolt. With our bolts out, we can now remove our caliper bracket.
With our caliper bracket removed, we can now remove the rotor. We're gonna do this the same way as the front, putting a lug nut on the top just for safety reasons. We will give it a couple taps with the rubber mallet on the back. Nice. So that will come right off.
Now that we have our rotor, it is important to note that, just like the fronts, these rears are side=specific, so grabbing the one that says "Passenger rear." Also, now would be a good time to spray it down with some Brakleen, both inside and out. Because the parking brake is drum, you do wanna get the inside of this edge really well with Brakleen to remove the factory oils that they put on these. We are gonna secure it with a lug nut, just for safety reasons, before we have our caliper bracket back on. So let's grab our caliper bracket and get that prepped.
With our caliper bracket off of our Jeep, we can now remove the brake pads and get it ready to be prepped for our new pads. Just squeeze these to the center, just like we did on the fronts. You may need to tap them if they are very stuck, but ours come off pretty easily. Next up, we're gonna pop out the metal clips here. You might wanna use a flathead or a needle-nose just to work them off. Now we check out these channels, make sure none of them are gummed up at all. If they are, you can just take a wire brush and clean them up. But ours look pretty darn good so we can go ahead and then reinstall our metal brackets. Grabbing our bracket that has the curved tab up top and the larger tab down the bottom in this formation, tuck the smaller tab over the bottom, and snap it over like that. The other side will just have the same exact bracket in the opposite configuration. Now we're gonna remove our sliders, and reinstall our new boots, and lube them up.
I'm gonna install the new boots right onto this caliper bracket, because I feel it's a little bit easier, you can do it in any order you want. And then, once our sliders are lubricated, we can put them back into these boots and into the caliper bracket.
Power Stop has included a small packet of lubricant to lube up our sliders and the rest of our components. So we're gonna squeeze a little bit out and apply it to our sliders. It's okay if you still have a little bit of grease on here, you can clean them all the way down and relubricate them if you want but it's okay to just add some more. Just ensure that you have enough for the slider to move its full length in the bracket. Once it's lubricated, slide it down through the boot and snap the boot over your slider. We're just double-checking that this slides in and out with no issues, isn't hung up, and that should be fine. Grabbing our second slider, ensuring it has enough grease on it, getting it inserted into our boot. And then just again, double-checking that it has full function.
Next up, we do wanna lubricate the inside of these metal brackets here. You can lubricate that or the edge of your brake pad, you can do both, just as long as it has enough lubricant to slide freely in and out of these brackets. Taking our brake pad with the feeler on it, we're gonna slide this one into the back section facing where the puck on our caliper will be. Might take a little finagling to get this into place. But once it is, just ensure that it slides and grab our other brake pad, trying my best not to touch the actual pad part. We do have gloves on, which is helpful, but you don't wanna get too many oils from your hands or any grease that we were just using on that part of it. With our brake pads in place, just wanna double-check they're not moving around at all and that they are moving in the sliders. Now let's get this installed on our Jeep.
We're gonna slide our caliper bracket with our brake pads over the rotor and line it up with the holes on the back of our knuckle. May take some finagling of the rotor to get it where it needs to be. But once we're in place, grab our 18-millimeter bolts and get them started in the back of our knuckle. With our top bolt holding it in place, start the bottom bolt to ensure it's in the correct spot. Now we can grab our 18-millimeter wrench and get these tightened down. Using our caliper tool, we will need to push the center puck into the caliper slightly in order to clear our new brake pads. With our puck pushed in, we can now reattach the caliper to the bracket. With our caliper lined up to our bracket, insert both bolts into the back of the sliders. Grab your 15-millimeter slim wrench and 13-millimeter socket and tighten these down.
All right, now you're gonna repeat that process on the other side. And when you're finished, be sure to check torque spec on all the bolts that we've touched today. Also, you do wanna pump the brakes to ensure the pad seats properly on your rotor. But that is gonna do it for our review and install. For all things Jeep, keep it at extremeterrain.com.