(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Jake: Jake here for Extreme Terrain, and today, I've got this PowerStop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Kit for 2005 and newer Toyota Tacomas with 6-lug wheels. Now, brakes are some of the most important parts of any vehicle, especially if you're really using your truck. This all-inclusive kit is gonna be the right setup for a Tacoma owner who daily-drives or does some late off-roading or hauling with their truck and is looking for an affordable upgrade over their stock brakes. PowerStop is a company that is founded on exactly what their name implies, stopping. They are solely focused on brakes and braking components, and it shows in the quality of their products. This Z32 Evolution kit I have here today is no exception. This is a high-quality stock replacement kit that comes with everything you need to replace and upgrade your Tacoma's brakes.Now, the first thing you'll probably notice, and not just because I'm holding it, are these rotors. So you can see these are drilled and slotted, which is gonna be extremely helpful in dissipating heat. Keeping heat out of brakes is important. There's nothing scarier than cresting a hill only to feel that pedal go squishy. So, these slots here and these holes in the face of the rotor are gonna help channel heat off of the face of the rotor and away from the pads. You can also maybe see the holes go through on both sides. So that means the heat is gonna go right out through the fence in the center here. The rotors and drums are also made using G3000 metallurgy, so it has a higher percentage of carbon in the metal itself. Again, this is extremely helpful in dissipating heat, and heat is the enemy. Rotors have this silver zinc plating, and you can see the drums are coated as well. All of that is gonna help prevent rust and corrosion so they're gonna look good and perform well for a long time.However, the rotors and drums can only do so much without having good pads and shoes to back them up. And the brake pads and the rear brake shoes in this kit are really sort of the heroes of the whole thing. Now, the Z23s are made with PowerStop's own proprietary carbon-fiber ceramic compound. So these are really good at dissipating heat while maintaining everyday drivability. Lots of upgraded brake pads or brake shoes can lead to a compromise when it comes to regular use such as when you're driving around town with the family or going to the hardware store or something like that. The initial bite might come a little bit later than it did with your stock brakes. They might also make more noise or they might just produce a ton of brake dust even though they have good initial bite. However, that's not the case here. There's virtually no compromise in brake performance or feel. In fact, PowerStop claims that both the front and the rears here are nearly dust-free.Now, let's be honest, no brake is entirely dust-free just due to the nature of how they work. I mean, we're basically scrubbing off material when you use these. However, these are a super low dust formula that's gonna keep your wheels a lot cleaner, and that's especially good if you have some nice aftermarket wheels on your truck or if you're like me and you just can't stand cleaning wheels. Another benefit to buying the kit is that you get some other upgraded components beyond just the pads, the rotors, the drums, and the shoes here. PowerStop also includes all-new pins for your front calipers as well as adjusters for the rear and all-new springs for those rear brake shoes as well. You also get some high temp lubricant included in the kit.Like I said earlier, this is truly an all-inclusive kit here. So if you're looking to do a brake upgrade without compromise with a focus on quality and heat dissipation, this is a great option for you. That said, if you've got some seriously upgraded tires on your truck or if you're doing some heavy-duty off-roading or hauling, it's probably worth your while to check out a bit more of a heavy-duty setup. But if you just want a good upgrade to your stock brakes, this is a great kit without compromise that you really should consider.About the only compromise, in fact, is the price. Coming in around $525, it's not exactly what you would call cheap. However, good brakes rarely are, and this is not a place you wanna skimp if your truck sees a lot of usage. It's worth reiterating here that there's a good bit of science and technology baked into the rotors, the drums, the pads, and the shoes. Plus, again, it comes with everything you need to get this job done, so you're gonna have all-new hardware, and all of that is just going to improve the braking performance of your truck. There are a few places on my own vehicles in which I believe it's really worth spending the money. And it usually comes down to tires, suspension, and, of course, brakes, because they're so important, not only for safety, but to the driving experience as well.I wanna take a moment to discuss the install too. These are gonna come in at a soft two out of three on a difficulty meter. Installing this kit is definitely a job you can accomplish at home and it will probably take you around four hours or so to complete. And even if you've never done brakes before, it's really not that difficult of a job. It just requires some time and patience, especially when you're doing these rear drums with those springs and things. It's well worth the time and energy to do it yourself. And it is, again, a job that can be accomplished by a DIYer at home in the driveway. Just be sure you set aside some time to get it done. And to show you exactly what's what when it comes to the install, let's head on over to our install bay where we'll walk you through it step by step.Man: Tools used for today's install: a rag, brake lube, brake clean, a wire brush, bungee cord, caliper tool, ball-peen hammer, two angle cutters, needle-nose pliers, two flathead screwdrivers, needle-nose vise grips, a short extension, 12-millimeter socket, 17-millimeter socket, another 17-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, torque wrench, 1/2-inch cordless, and 3/8 cordless. What's going on, guys? I'm gonna be going over the installation process of your front and rear brakes on your Toyota Tacoma. Let's get started.All right. So, the first step in this uninstall, obviously, is going to be remove the front and rear tires. We have aftermarket lugs. You might wanna check on what size your lug nuts are before even beginning this job. But we're gonna go ahead and remove the wheels now. Remove your wheel and repeat the same process on the other side. All right. So, now that we have our wheel off, we got our wheel turned, we're gonna start the removal process of the brake pads. All right. We're first gonna remove this spring here up like that. And then this one, same thing. You're gonna pull it up. And then try not to bend it. But to get it out, you're gonna turn it just like that. It's gonna go in and out like that.All right. And then we're gonna release the tension from this spring just by doing that, and same thing on the other side, just like that. And then we're gonna remove our pins. All right. Now, to take our pins out, we're gonna just push and pry. Same thing with the bottom. Now, if these are stuck on your vehicle, what you're gonna want to do is you're gonna want to get like a ball-peen hammer and hit the back of it. And then you could use like a screwdriver or a punch to kind of push it the rest of the way through. But in our case, ours are coming out fairly easily, just like that. There's the bottom. Then there's the top. Take that retaining spring out. All right. Now that we have our caliper tool, we're gonna get this in between each pad. Since these are quad pistons, we're gonna spread them all outward. We're gonna get this out as far as we can. It wants to cooperate. Make sure you're in there nice and good and... All right, then you could reverse that. And now your pads should just slide right out. You may need to use a screwdriver, kinda get it started, wiggle it around. There's your inner and outer pad. Just like that.All right. So, now that our pads are out, it's time to take the caliper off of the knuckle. What we're gonna do is we're going to remove this bolt here that's holding this bracket in place. This brake line is hard and it's not flexible like this, so we're gonna have to get this and support it up. We're gonna take this out now using our 12-millimeter socket. And just finagle it like that. Put your bolt aside. And you are gonna have a wheel speed sensor, this green and gray wire. We're gonna just go and find that clip, pry up on it just so that way we have a little bit more slack. And now before we break our bolts loose for the caliper, we're gonna get a bungee cord so we can hang it. We're gonna put this around the upper control arm. And now it is time to take the caliper off. All right, now, since we got everything set up and where it needs to be, we can take our bracket...or actually, correction, our caliper off. They're gonna be these two bolts here, here, and here. It's gonna be a 17-millimeter. But just be very careful, you do not wanna touch any of the other bolts. Just these two right here, 17-millimeter, we're gonna remove those now.There's your bottom bolt and your top. Put your hardware to the side and you might have... Try and be as careful as you can with this. We're just gonna grab our bungee cord and kind of find a place to wrap it around. Secure this to your upper control arm. Here we go. It is okay to move this line a little bit, but try and be as careful as you can with it. But now we got our caliper off to the side, it's time to remove the rotor. All right. So, in our case, our rotor kind of just dropped off loosely like that. If it is stuck, which in your case it probably will be, if you are in need to change your brakes, there's quite a few options you can do. You can hit the face of the rotor right here with, like, a dead blow or a sledge, or...I'm sorry, a ball-peen or a sledge. If you can hit the back... If you know you're gonna get rid of these rotors, I would advise putting like a lug nut on just so it doesn't shoot out, or you can use an M8 metric bolt and thread them in just like that on either side and you're gonna kinda just work it slowly and it'll break that rust barrier right there. But like I said, I'll take ours off, just like that.All right. So, the first step in this installation process for the front brakes is gonna be to clean the hub surface. We wanna get that nice and clean so it meets the rotor efficiently. We can use a wire wheel brush. You can use a die grinder, whichever you have available. You're just gonna clean all the way around just like so, you know, in between the lugs. Then once you're done, you're gonna apply some brake parts cleaner or anti-seize right here so it doesn't seize to the rotor. And same thing goes for the inside of the caliper. You're gonna see that there's flat spots, almost like rusty. You're just gonna run your wire brush on that, upper and bottom. Once all that's done, we're gonna start throwing the parts on. All right. So, for the rotors, they are gonna be sided. For instance, this one says front passenger side, the other one will say front driver's side. You can remove these. We're not gonna do that, obviously, for film reasons. But remove that, and then, obviously, you're just gonna line up the logs and stick it on just like so.Okay. Also, if your rotor has a very slight bit of oil on it, it's not a good idea to get some brake clean and spray it onto the rag and just clean the brake surface. You don't really have to worry so much about the drum or the hat of it. But easy method to keep this rotor in place while we're assembling everything is to grab it like so. You can use a lug nut, but if your lug nuts are too short, you can use this and kind of lightly, right on the wheel stud, let go, it'll hold that in place while we get our caliper on. All right. Now we're gonna release all this tension or, I mean, release it from the bungee cord. Now we're gonna reinstall our caliper. We're gonna get our bolts, line up the holes, start it by hand. Sometimes it helps to kind of shimmy the caliper up and down. Line up the bolt holes, line up the threads. Now, it's the same thing with the top. Sorry, I'm trying to do this so you could see it. All right. All right. And then we're gonna get our cordless with our 17 and we're gonna just take these in till they stop.And then now we have our caliper on. We are going to torque these two bolts down to manufacturer specifications. And again, we are torquing these two caliper bracket bolts, or I'm sorry, caliper bolts to manufacturer specification. All right. So, now, it's time to reinstall our brake line onto that knuckle. You're gonna get this into that top hole and then line up the bottom hole. Start it by hand. And we are going to take our 12-millimeter socket and tighten this back down. And again, we're gonna get this, our wheel speed sensor wire, or ABS wire, back in just like so. I'm trying to do this so you can see it again. Just in, push down until you hear that click, and you know you're secure.All right. So now it's time to install our pads. We have our brake lubricant here. I'm not actually gonna apply it, but I will show you where to apply it. Again, you want your pads facing this way and the low indicator squealer on the inside. But you're gonna apply grease the whole top of here along with the bottom. You can apply a light coat to kind of help dampen the sound, like I said, here, here, and then you are going to just slide it in same way as it came out, just like that. And get our other pad. Got our front pad, same thing here, here, and then you can put a little here as well. It should slide right in, up and down movement, just like that.Okay, now that we have our hardware and our new pins, again, obviously, you have to apply some kind of lubricant. It could be either silicone or parts lubricant onto these pins. We're gonna put the first one in up top, just like that. And then there is holes at the end, and we're gonna be using cotter pins through that. Or you can use that factory piece that we did take off first. And you don't have to. This kit does come with cotter pins. In this case, we're just gonna use our cotter pins. And this spring, put this in first, and you are going to push in and kinda hold, get our pins started. Make sure you go through this spring too until it stops. And that's what it'll look like. That's what it should look like. We're gonna get our cotter pins now and put those in. All right. So now we're gonna get our needle-nose pliers with our cotter pin which came into the hardware kit, and we're gonna install these through the holes. You can kinda start it, turn it, push it down further. Make sure it's in place correctly, which it is, and just kind of make sure that it's not gonna come in contact with anything, which looks like that'll be fine. We're gonna get the other one and install that the same way. And you're going to repeat this exact same process on the other side.Okay, so, the first process and the replacement of the rear on your Tacoma rear brakes is gonna be to get the drum off. There's a couple ways to do this. You can get that same M8 bolt and run them in, side by side, a little bit each time, then it'll break that seal. Or you can use, like I said, a ball-peen and just hit the face. Usually, a couple hits should take care of it, if not, I would go back to that bolt. Let's see if the hammer works for us. And it should just slide off. You're gonna have to wiggle it, just like that. All right. So, the first thing you want to do once you have your drum off is to remove your pins. We're gonna use a pair of needle-nose vise grips and we're gonna grab it just like this. Make sure it's pretty tight. And you're gonna grab behind and hold that pin in place. And you're gonna push and turn until you line up those slots there, just like that. And then your cap, and spring, and pinch come right out, just like that. We're gonna do the other side. All right, now we're gonna take this lower spring off. Again, don't disassemble the other side if you're not entirely sure, that way you have a reference point.All right. Next, we're gonna take this lower spring off. It's gonna be connected to your parking brake mechanism. Get our needle-nose pry. Oh, try and be careful. Don't let that happen. There you go. All right. So, now, we are going to take this spring out right there where that little white line is with our needle-nose. Sorry if you can't see some of this. And sometimes when you're removing these, it does help to hold the shoe. Okay. That's out. All right. Now you should be able to take your shoes off. We're just gonna pull up and then out. We may not be able to take them all out though because we do have the parking brake cable still. All right, now we're gonna get our flathead screwdriver, and we're just gonna turn upward that star wheel to compress the shoe so we alleviate some of the stress on this spring right here. Sorry if you can't see this, we're literally just prying on that wheel and turning it clockwise. We're gonna try and bring it in as far as possible. Sorry, these are very long threads. All right. So, once it starts to kind of just float in there, like it is now, you know you have enough tension released.So, we're gonna go ahead and take this spring off right here. All right. So, we're gonna just insert our flathead screwdriver and kinda try and get it in as far as possible and pry. There you go, just like that. Spring is off. And we can remove our right shoe. All right, now we're gonna take the rear shoe off. And then there's that spring and that star adjuster that I couldn't quite capture right there for you. Just turns just like that. And we are going to take our parking brake cable off now. All right. So, now we are going to remove our parking brake cable. I'm just gonna pull up on this spring and try and pry that out of there. Maybe try... I'm gonna turn it around so you can see it. And we're just getting that out of there. There we go. And that is the disassembly part. You're gonna wanna repeat this process on the other side.All right, guys, so for this section, we're gonna be transferring over our parking brake bracket or assembly to our new shoe. We're gonna have clips just like this. They're gonna be here and here. We're gonna have to spread those open in order to get that off. I'm gonna start with using my flathead screwdriver. Get our flathead, stick it in between. And we're gonna work on this clip, getting it out once you have it pried up. Usually, generally, you can kinda grab behind it. There's one. Put that off to the side. And same thing here. Switch to our smaller screwdriver, flathead. Get that where we need it to be. And there's our last one. Put that off to the side. And this plate will just lift up. I might have to push down a little. There we go. It's our front plate. And our rear plate will just drop out just like that. Keep these together. And then for our spring and star adjuster, it's kinda hooked on the back there. I kinda just went through. And now we can work on transferring all of this stuff over to our new shoe.All right. So, now we have our hardware, we have our new spring, and our new adjuster. What I like to do is it's gonna orient like this on this, but this coil needs to be over. Obviously, you can't fit it over that coil...I'm sorry, spring. So what you need to do is you're gonna have to untwist this. And what I like to do is to put some kind of anti-seize or even brake lube, if you don't have anything, so that way that doesn't seize up on you and you can still adjust it further down the road. And it's gonna go on just like that. And we're gonna thread that back in. Again, put some kind of lubricant, but in our case, we're not gonna do that. These are long threads. Very, very long threads. And I like to bring it all the way in, that way it's easy to assemble, and then we could adjust it out as we need to. But get that where it needs to be. This will slip over. Again, put some grease there as well so that way it doesn't seize and it can move. And now we can work on getting all of this back together.All right, now, we can move our plates onto our new shoe along with our adjuster and spring. This is gonna go through the large hole at the top just like so. You're gonna put your finger over that hole over that and hold that in place. The gold section will face in at the shoe. It'll go in like that. And you can kinda just push that into place, just like that. And then we could put our top plate on. There we go. It dropped right in real nice for me. And we're gonna get our new clips. And you're gonna just go over just like that. And we are gonna get our needle-nose pliers. You're gonna hold the back and you're gonna squeeze these together. We're gonna switch hands here. I like to go vertically, so that way it doesn't kind of slip out on you. Once you get set, just squeeze. And that's it. Make sure it's nice and snug. We're gonna work on this one now. Slide it over, put something behind it, and squeeze just like that. And it should look just like that.All right. So, now, before we start assembling, we're gonna wanna clean the surface or the face of the hub. We can use our wire brush. Just demonstrating. We're not gonna actually do it, but, you know, like that. Then you're gonna wanna put some brake lubricant or anti-seize on the face of that before you put the drum on. After you have that clean, you're gonna work over here. These are gonna be the contact points for the shoes. We get a wire brush, scrape off all that old grease and brake dust. You're gonna have three points of contact per side, one, two, three. And same thing on this side. Just a light brush. Get all that old goo off and then break some brake clean, spray it. We're gonna go ahead and actually spray this too. And then you could do the same thing, obviously, after you're done with the wire brush before you apply your lubricant. But we're gonna go and get our grease and apply it to those points and start assembling it. And the grease points, we're just gonna apply... Like we said, there's spots, one there, one there, one there, same thing on the other side. There it is. And right there.All right. So, now we have our parking brake cable. You're gonna have a spring. We're gonna have to get this spring back far enough to expose the actual cable so we can mount that onto our shoe. You're going to grab a pair of needle-nose at the end here, get a pair of dikes or diagonal cutters, and you're gonna have to get back along so you're at the very first, and get it like that. Get a nice grip on it. We can put our pliers away for now. And it is simply just gonna go in just like this. Try and get it up and out. Come on. Here we go. And then you can let go. Okay. Now you're gonna pass through this star and spring star adjuster through, kinda start to get it lined up right there. Okay. All right. So, now we're gonna mount our other shoe on the front side. We're gonna be using this yellow spring here to hold it in place. And kinda using my chest to keep that in place up until I grab a hold of this, then you can pretty much let go and just hold the other one. But, again, I just wanna make sure we're... There we go. And get your star lined up. I'm gonna have to switch hands here. All right. And we're gonna go. And if it doesn't quite go in, just give it a tap. There we go. And you wanna make sure that that is seated in the correct spot on the shoe, your adjuster. And right there is where we want to put that. And now we can let go.All right, so, now it's time to install this. This is what stops the star from backing in. We're gonna get our yellow spring and attach it down here. This hole's gonna line up with that peg. What I like to do is pull the shoe out. And you're gonna just simply put this over that. And then this piece here has to go behind that other piece that I was explaining for the shoe or for the star. Correction, for the star. Let's try and get that to line up. You may have to use a flathead. I'm gonna grab my flathead. All right. Let's drop it in slow. And, there. that's exactly what it should look like. You want that to be directly behind it like that, this piece right here. Okay. All right. Now we're gonna get that yellow spring. Sorry, if I block your field of view. Grab it with your needle-nose, and we're gonna go into this hole right there, just like that. And then you can kind of move everything around, center it up a little more. And now we're gonna move on to the lower section of it. All right. Now we're going to install this last piece here. It's gonna go on to that open peg. Make sure it is facing this direction, like that, and like that. It'll look just like that.Now it's time to install our white spring. This shorter section is gonna go right there. And then this is gonna go around that peg. We're gonna use our needle-nose pliers. There we go. Okay. All right. Now it's time to install our lower spring. It's gonna go inward like that, but behind this plate. So this is gonna be one of the tougher springs. And if it doesn't go all the way in, just give it a tap. There we go. And now we can install our pins. All right. So, now that we have everything kind of somewhat assembled, you wanna make sure that everything's lined up, especially the holes where we're gonna put the pins through. I'm just gonna look on this side, and you're gonna see. Make sure it's also in the wheel cylinder correctly. You kind of briefly look around. And we are lined up. So now it's time to put our pins in. If you are having difficulty lining it up, you could use something like a punch or a screwdriver as well. I got my needle-nose vise grips with the cap on. We're gonna put the spring on. We're gonna go from the back for the pin, and you should see that pin come through just like that. And what I like to do is put my finger over it to keep it from spinning. Line that up, turn it, and you are good to release it. There's that first side.We're gonna work on the second side right now. Again, you're needle-nose vise grips. You wanna make that somewhat tight. There's our spring, our pin, through the back. And same thing we did on the other side. Here we go. Sometimes you do need to readjust the cap, maybe a little bit more of a gap instead of so close to the end. And then just turn it, release. Again, it doesn't hurt to do a second look-over, make sure everything is where it needs to be. Readjust anything that... And now it is time to put our drum on and then I will show you how to adjust the parking brake. And also, you're gonna repeat this exact same process on the other side. All right. So now it's time to put our drum on. Line up the holes with the studs. Should slide right on. You may need to kind of wiggle it on, but... There we go. And as you can see, we don't hear any drag. That's what we're gonna have to adjust in the back. And I will show you that now.All right, now, in order to adjust this, you're gonna have a little rubber kind of insert. We're gonna take out. It should look like that. I'll bring it into the frame. It should look like that, not circular, and you should be able to look through it and find the star wheel. And we are just gonna continue to turn it until... There we go. Okay, now we can check the rotation and see if we have any friction at all now. Okay, like I was saying before, you want to make sure that you adjust that star wheel out enough so that you have some kind of friction that it's not just spinning freely like that. So once it starts to make contact or go a slightly bit more, and you should be good to go. And you're gonna repeat this exact same process on the other side.All right, now that everything's wrapped up, we're gonna put our wheel back on. All right. Now we're just gonna install our lug nuts by hand. And we're gonna get our impact. And we're just snugging these kinda up. We're gonna go in a star pattern as well. Then I like to go just around and make sure that they're all tight. And you are gonna repeat this exact same process all the way around the vehicle, but we are gonna lower this down and then torque it down to manufacturer spec.Jake: So that brings us to the end of our review and install of the PowerStop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Kit for 2005 and newer Tacomas. Thanks so much for watching, and remember, for all things Tacoma, be sure to stick with us right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Brake Rotor and Pad Kit Placement
|Front and Rear
|Brake Rotor Type
|Drilled and Slotted
|Brake Pad Material
Impressive Stopping Power. Upgrade your Toyota Tacoma’s braking performance by replacing its stock brake rotors and pads with PowerStop’s Z23 Evolution Sport Front & Rear 6-Lug Brake Rotor & Pad Kit. The Z23 is engineered to increase your vehicle’s braking power, giving you the ability to come to a full stop while you’re traversing the harshest off-road terrains. What’s more, the kit boasts a bolt-on design, so you don’t need to modify your vehicle to ensure a perfect fit.
Highly Durable Rotors. Each of the rotors in this kit is built using the finest G3000 metallurgy and covered with a zinc dichromate plating. As a result, they can stand up to corrosion and survive the most demanding terrains.
Drilled and Slotted Rotors. No matter how rough the trails get, PowerStop Z23’s rotors will remain in good condition. Thanks to their drilled, slotted, and plated design, they’ll stay cool and clean for many years to come.
Tough Ceramic Brake Pads. The brake pads that are featured in this product are made entirely out of heavy-duty ceramic. They’re also reinforced by high-quality carbon fibers, so they exhibit remarkable strength and longevity.
No Noise or Dust. PowerStop’s brake pads are crafted with a high-quality, dust-free friction formula. They also come with rubberized shims. As a result of their construction, they’re capable of delivering excellent dust-free and noise-free performance.
Installation Level Is Medium. Everything you need to secure the brake rotor and pad kit onto your truck is provided. However, installing it is a challenging task, so having at least a moderate mechanical skill level is a must.
Complete Brake Pad and Rotor Kit. This Z23 Evolution Sport kit includes 2 front rotors, 2 rear rotors, 4 front brake pads, 4 rear brake pads, installation hardware, and a ceramic brake lubricant.
Comes With a 3-Year/36,000-Mile Warranty. A 3-year/36,000-mile warranty is included with every PowerStop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Rotor & Pad Kit sold comes with a 3-year/36,000-mile warranty. This, however, only applies to products that are showing signs of defects in materials and workmanship. Please check out the manufacturer’s website to learn more.
Application. The PowerStop Z23 Evolution Sport Front & Rear 6-Lug Brake Rotor & Pad Kit fits all 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma models.
Information on PowerStop's proper Break-In Procedure can be found here: https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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