Review & Install Video
Hey guys, so today I'm here with the Mammoth 2-inch Front 1-inch Rear Leveling Kit with End Links, fitting all 2007 to 2008 JK Wranglers. So this is gonna be for the JK owner who's looking to create a better stance on their Jeep while also adding a little bit of height at a very affordable price point. So this leveling kit by Mammoth is going to be a very easy way to gain a little bit of height on your Wrangler. Obviously, you have two inches in the front and one-inch in the rear and that's going to open up that wheel well for larger wheels and tires without replacing a bunch of components and getting very involved in your suspension. Now this is also gonna do a great job at leveling out the rake in your hood. So out of the factory, since your engine is heavier than the rear of your Jeep, it makes the front end sag a little bit and this is gonna take that away and create a very aggressive stance and make the Jeep look a whole lot better by only adding a couple of spacers. Now this is gonna be a very bare-bones kit. This is the only gonna consist of four spacers and two end links in the front to accommodate for that extra height. So this is perfect for somebody who doesn't wanna get too involved in their suspension or doesn't need to do a lot of restoration. They're just looking for those key benefits to add a little bit of height and fit a larger wheel and tire. So speaking of tires a 33-inch tire is what this lift kit is going to accommodate and it's gonna fill out that wheel well very nicely while also leaving you a lot of room in the wheel well for a little bit of articulation if you wanna do any lighter trails or any fire trails. So as far as 35s go, I would definitely not recommend them for this lift kit because you may be able to bolt them on, you may not have any rubbing from wheel lock to wheel lock but you are going to have some tire defender contact. If you do hit a bump or try to articulate in any way on any trail or even any fire trails, you will have that contact so it's definitely not recommended. So I would stick to a 33-inch tire. So as far as price goes, this is going to be very affordable, like I mentioned before, at roughly $120 and that's because what's included in the kit. Now when you take a look at lift kits, usually the price is based off of what's included in the kit so if you have more components in a lift kit or a leveling kit, is going to be at a higher price point and that's exactly why this is so affordable. So less expensive options that you may be seeing on the page are usually gonna consist of less components in the kit. So they may not come with end links in the leveling kit, they may be for smaller spacers or they may only come with the front two spacers to level out that weight distribution. Now, on the other hand, more expensive options are usually gonna come with more components. So you may see shock adaptors in the kit. You may see all four end links instead of just the front two. You may even see shocks which is going to up that price point and once you get past leveling kits, you are starting to get into those lift kits that are going to be a little bit more involved in your suspension which is also going to raise that price point. So, overall, I think this is a perfect middle ground. This gives you everything that you need to get some added height on your Wrangler. Not only are you just leveling out that rake, you are also adding a little bit of height for those key benefits that I mentioned before at a very affordable price point. So I definitely think that this is worth that price and it's going to get the job done. So install is gonna be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. This is going to be a pretty simple install as far as leveling kits and lift kits go. It's probably gonna take you about four hours to get the job done in your driveway with some pretty basic hand tools. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. Tools that I used for this install were a series of impact wrenches, a 21-millimeter, 18-millimeter and 10-millimeter deep socket, an 18-millimeter swivel, a six-millimeter Allen socket, five-inch extension, a dead blow, a 19-millimeter and 18-millimeter open-ended or box wrench, a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and a trim removal tool. So the first step of this install is to get your Jeep up in the air. We're gonna be starting in the front. So if you are on a jack and jack stands, you wanna make sure that you jack up the front and chock those rear wheels and then you can go ahead and take off the wheels and then our next step is gonna be to support our axle. So we're up on a lift. I have two pole jacks here and we're gonna go ahead do that now. So then our next step is gonna be to remove our sway bar end links. So with an 18-millimeter socket on the nut side and a 18-millimeter wrench on the bolt head side, I'm gonna go ahead and remove that bottom bolt. So since we are replacing these end links, what I'm gonna do is completely take them off. So the top stud needs to be held in place by a 19-millimeter wrench and then we can use that same 18-millimeter deep socket to take off that nut. So for the passenger side lower end link bolt, I am gonna be using a swivel since this is a tight area on the bolt head and on the other side, I'm using that same 18-millimeter wrench. We can do the same thing for the top with that 19-millimeter wrench and the 18-millimeter deep socket. So what we're gonna do next is remove the lower shock bolt. We just need to disconnect this from the axle so we can drop our axle. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter wrench on the nut side and that 18-millimeter swivel that we used up front on the passenger side for the bolt head. Now if the bolt doesn't come out right away, you just have to put a little bit of pressure on that axle, kinda tinker with the height and then it should come out. Then we can just repeat that process on the other side. So what we can start to do is lower down our axle now. You wanna make sure that it comes down evenly and then we can go ahead and remove our spring. Now you wanna also keep an eye on your brake lines at this point. You don't wanna max them out but they should be okay since we don't necessarily need to go all the way down. So we can do at this point is just go ahead and remove our spring. So I do wanna drop our axle just a little bit lower to make it a little bit more easy to get the springs in with the spacer itself. So what I'm gonna do is disconnect the axle side of our track bar. I have a 21-millimeter deep socket and a half-inch impact. I'm gonna go ahead and remove that lower bolt. So once that's removed, you can grab the flag nut that fell off on the back and we can disconnect the top bracket on our brake line. So I just don't wanna damage this brake line while we're dropping the axle so I'm gonna take a 10-millimeter socket and remove this bolt that's holding the bracket to the frame and we can install that once the spacer kit is on. So that'll give us just a little bit more slack. Also, watch your breather hose. You can disconnect it if you need to or just pull it down. So what we're gonna do is take the factory isolator off. Just slip right around the bump stop there then what we can do is stack this with our spacer. This is gonna go around the bottom then we can go ahead and install that. You might have to separate them to get the spacer on. So you may have to take a mallet and hit it over this lip here. However, you wanna make sure that you are installing these spacer with the lip down and the indentation at the top then we can install our factory isolator and then reinstall our spring. You also wanna make sure that it's seated in the back there where that pigtail ends then you can put a little bit of pressure on it just to keep it in place. We can do the same thing on the other side. All right. So now we can start to raise up our axle, compress our springs and then we can start putting everything back together. So now we can start to put everything back together. I'm gonna start with our brake lines. We're installing that 10-millimeter bolt and tightening it up with that 10-millimeter socket. Then we can move to our lower shock bolt. So, again, you may have to tinker with the axle height. Just make sure you're watching your lift points when you do this because you have extra compression on your springs now that you have a spacer in there. And we can tighten her up with a 18-millimeter swivel and an 18-millimeter wrench, then we can move on to our sway bar end link. So while we're on the side, what we can do is start to attach our sway bar end links. Now, I am going to do the top bolt first just because we have this track bar bracket up on our frame so it's not easy to access our sway bar at the top when it actually is in position. So I'm gonna thread that nut on then I'm gonna grab a six-millimeter Allen key to keep this still while I tighten it down with a 19-millimeter wrench. So once that's tight, what we can do is push this up and line up that bottom bolt hole, grab our factory bolt and secure that down. So what we can do now is secure the lower part of our end link with our factory hardware. I'm also using the new washer that Mammoth provided to just sit on that bushing there. You don't want the bolt head to damage that. You can thread on that nut and then we can tighten it down with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. And then we can repeat that whole process on the other side. So after we're finished up in the front, we can move to the back and what you need to do is support the rear axle and then our first step back here is to remove the lower shock bolt so we can access our sway bar end link. So I'm using an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. We can go ahead and remove that bolt. All right. So, again, you may have to tinker with the height of the axle in order to get that bolt out or loosen it up. Then we can do the same thing on the other side. So what we can do next is disconnect the lower part of our sway bar end link in the back. So I'm gonna use that same 18-millimeter socket and the 18-millimeter wrench to remove that lower bolt. So before we lower our axle, I do want to remove the brake line bracket. So I'm gonna use that same 10-millimeter socket and remove that bolt. Just make sure it's unhooked so it's not caught and then we can disconnect the clips that are holding in our ABS line just to give that a little bit of slack as well. So if you disconnect one of these on the axle side, it should give it enough slack. So the axle is not dropping down far enough in order to get our spring back in with the spacer. So what I'm gonna do, again, is just disconnect the track bar on the axle side using the same 21-millimeter socket that we used up front. All right. And that should allow us to drop our axle a little bit lower and take out those springs. So with our new spacer and our factory isolator stacked on top of each other, what we can do is just reinstall our spring then. So you may have to pull down on the axle in order to get the spring back in. So once those are in place, we can put some pressure back on our axle and bolt everything else up. So now that our spacers are in, we can start to button everything up, starting with our brake line. So I'm gonna reinstall that 10-millimeter bolt on the frame then we can just put our clip back. Now on the axle where our rotor is, you can leave that one unhooked just because you do wanna little bit of slack with your ABS line but I'm going to hook that top one on the frame. And we can secure our sway bar end links with our factory hardware. Then we can tighten it down with an 18-millimeter wrench and socket then do the same thing on the other side. Then we can connect our lower shock bolt using our factory hardware and tightening that back up with the same 18-millimeter wrench and socket. Then same thing on the other side. So after everything's buttoned up, all we have to do is put the wheels on, put it on its own weight so we can reconnect the track bar and then we're all set to go. So with somebody pushing on the side of the Jeep, you will be able to shimmy it back and forth enough to get that bolt through then we're going to connect our flag nut on the other side. So I shimmied the bolt back just so I could get the flag nut threaded and then we can go ahead and tighten that up with our 21-millimeter socket. We can do the same thing with the front. All right. So with somebody in the driver seat, what they can do is turn the wheel back and forth and you should be able to line up your track bar. So that's what I'm doing here. I just got...have to push it through a little bit farther and then we can thread on the flag nut. So once that flag nut is threaded on with a 21-millimeter socket and I like to use an extension here to clear the drag link, we can tighten that down. That's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe and for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.