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Hey, guys, it's Sara from extremeterrain.com and today, we have a review and install of the DV8 Off-Road Slim Fender Flares with LED Turn Signals fitting your 2018 and up Jeep Wrangler JLs. These fender flares are made of lightweight steel and feature a wrinkle black powder coat finish. This kit includes four flares with LED turn signals, weatherstripping, and all necessary hardware. These flares will give your Jeep more maneuverability as well as durability when you're off-roading. Not to mention, they'll allow for a larger wheel and tire package and frankly, they look great on your Jeep. Coming in at around $600, these fender flares are a middle of the road option as far as flares go for your Jeep. They may be one of the most low profile options on the market, however, and they include bracketry for additional LED lighting, turn signals, and hardware are included as well. Possibly, the only drawback to this kit is that the factory wheel well liners will not work with our fender flares. And as you can see, this leaves quite a few components open to the elements. And with a Jeep as new as these JLs, you do wanna have those protected. I would recommend considering an aftermarket metal wheel well liner that's gonna protect all the elements that we are exposing with taking away our factory wheel well liners.I'm gonna give this install a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It can be done in approximately two hours, but it will require a bit of tedious work. There is 40 rivnuts that you will have to put on this Jeep in order to install these fender flares as well as permanent modifications to your wiring harness. However, if you're up to the job, the install is not too difficult. For this install, you will need a 13-millimeter wrench, 10-millimeter socket, 5-millimeter Allen socket, 4-millimeter Allen socket, 3/8 drive ratchet, quarter-inch drive ratchet, a four-millimeter Allen key, a pop clip removal tool, and some optional, but extremely helpful tools include a razor knife, a rivnut tool, butt connectors, electrical tape, wire cutter, and crimper, wire stripper, and a heat gun.All right, so the first step in our uninstall is to remove all of the pop clips and bolts that physically hold the fender liner to the truck. You're not gonna need to remove the fender liner from the fender because we can't use it on our new ones, so we just wanna take it off in one piece. So there should be only a few pop clips that physically hold this fender liner to the truck. One of the most important ones being the one directly behind the motor mount. We can go ahead and take our trim removal tool and get behind it and pop it out. Next, we're gonna remove the five 10-millimeter bolts that hold the fender liner to the truck. Next step is to remove the two bolts at the very top of the fender that hold the fender to the truck. There's a bracket under each one, so we're gonna take those two 10-millimeter bolts out now. Moving on to our second bolt holding the fender to the truck, this bracket is a little bit farther back also in the very top of the fender. Something to note is that this is now held on with only pop clips and you will likely break most, if not all of them, taking it off. If you ever plan to put this fender back onto your Jeep, you will likely need to buy more pop clips because even if you're careful, they are extremely difficult to remove. That being said, we're gonna grab our fender and pull straight out and that will get it off of our Jeep. Now that you have all of your pop clips removed and the fender off the truck slightly, you do wanna disconnect the wiring harness that works the turn signal. It's right behind here or you can go up and under the fender liner. Just remembering it's there and careful with it should be good enough.First step in removing this is pulling back on the red tab and then you pinch and remove this. Again, you can get to it underneath the fender liner, but if you're not removing that separately, it might be a little bit difficult. Any of these plastic clips that didn't come off with our fender, we want to remove. You don't technically have to do to get your fender on there, but they might get in the way slightly, so we're gonna take them off. We're gonna grab a plastic trim removal tool so we don't damage our paint. Okay, so we grabbed our front fender and we're gonna put our light and our weatherstripping in it. So first step is going to be to grab this fender and flip it over. Now we have our inside edge exposed and this is where the weatherstripping is gonna go right along this inside line. It's meant to go against your truck so that this sharp edge doesn't ruin your paint. So grabbing the weatherstripping that matches up with our front fender, you're gonna take the double side adhesive off a little bit. I recommend going a little at a time and we're gonna match it up with the bolt holes and the curve of the fender. There are along here to help with it curving and each cutout should match up with a bolt hole if you're not sure if you're putting it in the correct spot. We're peeling the double-sided adhesive as we go and matching it up with our bolt holes. Some of the adhesive is going to be over the holes that we wanna use to put this on our truck, so you might wanna go back over it with a razor knife or a set of scissors later.Okay. Now that that's attached, we can check out exactly how much overhang there is on here and we do wanna trim that because you will see it when it's mounted on your Jeep. So we're just gonna trim back our weatherstripping a little bit. So this is personal preference. You can take off as much as you want or not at all, but I just like to trim this edge just so it cleans it up a little bit. The final step in prepping our fender is to install our turn signal bulb. Grabbing that, we wanna run the wiring harness through the hole and we're also running it through the brackets just so that the path of the wiring is a little neater. And don't forget to put the nut through the wire on the back. And we're gonna try to tighten this down. It is kind of a difficult spot to get to because there is that lip there, so just do your best to tighten it down. You're probably not gonna be able to get a wrench on there. All right, now that we have that secured, we're gonna run our wiring harness through the brackets. You don't have to run it through here, but I think it makes it look a little neater and it tucks it up out of the way of your tire. All right, our offender is prepped and now we can go ahead and get it on our truck.So because these brackets are here, we're gonna put our fender on top of that just so we can line up the holes so we know which ones to rivnut. So we're gonna start with these couple holes right here. And DV8 does recommend starting with the rear and working your way forward, anyway. So we've grabbed our rivnut and we have a rivnut tool. If you don't have one of these, I recommend borrowing one. You can get it from a tool lending place. They do include hardware with this kit if you absolutely don't have one to use, but it's gonna take quite a bit longer, so this is a lifesaver. We're gonna grab our rivnut and thread it on the end of our rivnut tool, position it in the hole that's already on our Jeep. Might take a little finagling just because it is pretty similar to the size of our rivnut. Once it's flat against the truck, we squeeze and then loosen up our tool. We're gonna go ahead and repeat that process for the rest of the holes on the fender. Now, it's important to remember, not every single hole in this fender is going to get a rivnut, so you might need to position your fender on the truck just to measure exactly which ones you need to put a rivnut in. Moving on to our next set of holes. The areas where the fenders are most pliable are gonna be the most difficult. So long as you're using even force, you should be fine. With all of our rivnuts in we can place our fender back on our truck. With our fender lined up, we can start to put our hardware in. We want to start at the back because DV8 recommends starting here and just putting our hardware in loosely because we will need to finagle it a little bit. And we will go back and tighten them all down later.Now that we have all our hardware installed, we can go ahead and tighten them down. You're gonna wanna go front to back respectively until they're completely tight. For the more hard to reach places where you can't use your 4-millimeter Allen socket, you can just use a regular 4-millimeter Allen key. You want these tight but don't over tighten because they could warp the actual body of the Jeep, so just tight enough, but definitely don't kill them. Moving onto the back of our fender, we can tighten these bolts down. Again, we want them snug, but not over-tightened. For the ones we can't reach, we can grab our 4-millimeter Allen key. Next up, we're gonna tighten down our last three bolts. Now that our fender is completely attached to our Jeep, we can go ahead and wire in our turn signal. We're gonna grab the connector that we disconnected during the uninstall and we're gonna pull this off. You want to pull back this to expose as much of these wires as possible so that we can have enough room to tap into them.All right, so we peel back this wiring harness to expose as much of these loose wires as possible so we have enough room to cut them. Either driver or passenger side, it's going to be the second wire from the end. That's gonna be your turn signal. The other side, I believe, is a different color, but the driver side is green and white. If you're not sure, you can use a test light. If it blinks, it is a turn signal. So with our harness peeled back as much as we can and the truck off, we can cut this wire and use our stripping tool to peel a little bit of it back. Now, it is worth mentioning that this kit comes with alligator clips. However, the gauge wire that DV8 includes on their turn signal is just too small for the alligator clip to grab onto. So you will install these alligator clips and likely, it won't grab enough to get a power and ground for the turn signal to work. So what we're gonna do is a little bit more of a permanent modification. If you're not comfortable with that, there's lots of different ways to wire this, but this is one of the more permanent ways. The most permanent is to solder, but we're gonna use these connectors and then heat-shrink them, which should be sufficient. So with that piece of wire peeled back and stripped, we wanna put it all the way into our connector. Grab our crimping tool, ensure that it's all the way in there and in tight. Next up, we're gonna do the same thing to this part of the harness.All right, so we've peeled back our harness a little bit for our turn signal and as you can see, this gauge wiring is incredibly small. So you see what I mean about the alligator clip but we wanna expose a little bit of our wire here, twist it nicely. And we have part of our turn signal power wire exposed, so we're just going to try to route it as nicely as possible and we can also zip tie that up later, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. And just twist it in with our turn signal power wire. Once we have those joined together and inserted into our butt connector, grab our crimping tool, ensure that's crimped nice and tight so it doesn't come out. We can just double-check our wiring. Think we did a pretty good job and we are going to heat-shrink this here. Just to be clear, you don't have to put your power wire in on this side, you can do it on that side. There's lots of different ways to accomplish this. I just find it's easiest to tuck it up in that configuration. Next up, we wanna use our ground wire and I'm gonna tap into this one on the outside here and we're gonna hook it up to the ground on our turn signal. Grabbing our stripping tool, we're gonna strip back a little bit of this ground wire similar to our power wire. Okay. Twisting our ground wire so that we get a nice connection to our butt connector, our crimping tool here, double-checking that we have a good connection. Now we're grabbing the ground wire for our turn signal and the ground wire, the other side of the ground wire for our connector and we're gonna join these together. This is possibly the most important parts, so we wanna make sure we have a really, really good connection here. So now that they're twisted nice and tight, insert them as far as you can into the butt connector. Might need a couple tries just to ensure that both pieces of wire are going into the butt connector. We wanna make sure we do this right cause this is really only a one-shot type of wiring. If there was a little more connector visible, I'd say you have some trial and error, but you really don't wanna cut back more of this harness than you need to. Okay, double-checking that we have a good connection, and we do. Now we can grab a heat gun and we can heat-shrink these together. All right, we're going the heat-shrink these and ensure that we have a nice weather-tight seal so that we don't have any issues with our turn signal. Now, it can be noted that you can remove this clip entirely and it might make your wiring job a little easier. However, I did wanna leave it in here just in case the truck ever needs to be returned to stock. I don't wanna get rid of a connector if I don't need to. And if you're going to do this method, you wanna make sure the connectors you choose are heat shrinkable because they do make some that are not.Now, our final step with this is that you might want to put some electrical tape on here and just tuck this harness up a little more neatly and then you can use the factory location that this clip went to sort of finish tucking this up. The last two bolts that are gonna install our front fender go into these two brackets that hold our fender up. They are the larger one, the 5-millimeter Allen head bolts, so we're gonna put them into the oval opening, get a washer on each side, and then the lock nuts that are included in your hardware goes on top. Using our 13-millimeter wrench and a 5-millimeter Allen socket, we can tighten these down. We're gonna repeat that process with our second large bolt into our second bracket. We wanna make sure that we have a washer on each side because that's gonna make sure that it is able to tighten down because the openings are too large to go without. Grabbing our 13-millimeter wrench and 5-millimeter Allen socket, we can tighten these down. All right, now we have finished the front fender, we can go ahead and move onto the rear. Similar to the front, we're gonna remove all the pop clips that are physically attaching the fender liner to the Jeep. We do not need to take the pop clips that attach the fender liner to the fender because they will come off together. So there are a few more pop clips that attach the liner to the Jeep. They're behind the wheel. We can try to get these off going with our tool behind the liner because it might be a little easier, but either way, you wanna remove these and they might be break coming out. There's no good way for me to pry this that you guys can still see it. Now that all of our pop clips are removed from our inner liner, we can grab our fender and pull it straight away from our Jeep. This is gonna be the same process that we did on the front fender. We wanna make sure to remove any of these white clips that did not come off with our fender as they will get in the way of our new fender. Now that we have our fender off the truck, we can prep our new fender to go on. So the first step in that is to grab the corresponding weatherstripping and attach it to the backside of our fender. You wanna ensure that you have the piece that lines up with the bolt holes on the back of the fender. Once we do, we can go ahead and peel off the double-sided tape and begin to stick it, peeling this back as we go and lining up our weatherstripping. Each one of these openings is gonna correspond to a bolt hole and you might have to remove some of the adhesive if it sticks over the bolt hole.With our weatherstripping fully installed, we can go ahead and trim these edges. This all comes down to personal preference, however you feel like you want it to look on your Jeep is how much you can take off. And you will also likely need to take some off the other side, so we're just gonna cut along the line of our fender and then make a straight cut as straight as we can. Now that we have our fender prepped and ready to go on our Jeep, we just wanna line it up to the holes to know which ones that we want to put a rivnut into. We're gonna start with the three at the back of the fender. Using the same rivnut tool and method we used on the front fender, we can attach the rivnuts to the corresponding holes to mount our rear fender. This is gonna go a little bit easier because the rear part of your Jeep is more rigid than the front so it's easier to press the rivnut in and clamp it on. Moving on to this hole, we can just check to make sure it corresponded with our fender and we can put our rivnut in. Next up is this far hole. Again, if you're not sure which ones to put a rivet in, just put your fender up to the Jeep and double-check the ones that are drilled in the fender. Moving on to our final four rivnuts. All right, now for our final rivnut, we're gonna go for this hole closest to the inside of the wheel. With all our rivnuts in, we can now mount our fender. Because this one doesn't have the nice brackets to rest on, I'm gonna start with the top bolts. You can basically line up wherever you feel most comfortable. As long as you're only putting the bolts in, it's a little bit just enough to hold the fender on and then we will tighten them down later on. It may require a little bit of finesse because we have the weatherstripping now. It'll be a little harder to get to all of our bolts, but if you need to, just mush it around until we can get some of our bolts to thread. This one might be a little more difficult, this fender in general just because we don't have those nice brackets to rest on, but if you just take your time and line it up, one bolt hole at a time, you should be able to get all of these in. With all of our bolts in, we can start tightening them down. We're gonna start with the back and then skip to the front. Remember, we don't wanna over-tighten these, just snug enough is fine. And where you can't get your 5-millimeter socket, Allen socket, you can grab an Allen key.All right, so that is gonna do it for the review and install of our DV8 Fender Flares. Remember, for all things Jeep, keep it at extremeterrain.com.
The Perfect Fender Flares for Narrow Trails. If your next off-road adventure will take place in a difficult, narrow trail, it’s in your best interest to replace your Jeep Wrangler JL’s stock fender flares with DV8 Offroad’s Slim Fender Flares with LED Turn Signals. Due to the fender flares’ slimmer construction, you can successfully make those tight turns without scratching your Jeep. Plus, they’re covered in a 3-stage black powder coat, which helps give your Jeep an even more aggressive look.
Features a Solid Fender Flare Build. Each of the fender flares in the kit is crafted entirely out of durable lightweight steel. Thanks to their unique construction, the fender flares won’t place a lot of pressure on your Jeep and still be able to endure the harshest off-road environments and climates.
Comes With LED Turn Signals. Aside from improving your Jeep’s off-road appearance, this product will also help make your JL more visible during your late-night, off-road adventures. This is because the kit comes with LED turn signals that are made to shine brighter than your Jeep’s factory components.
Complete Install Kit. It’ll take you around 2-4 hours to install this kit. Fortunately, all of its necessary parts and mounting hardware are included, so you won’t have a difficult time completing the task.
Covered by a One-Year Limited Warranty. This product is backed by DV8 Offroad’s One-Year limited warranty. To learn more about this warranty’s terms and conditions, as well as its exclusions, please visit the manufacturer’s website.
Application. The DV8 Offroad Slim Fender Flares with LED Turn Signals kit are compatible with all 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL models.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
