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Adams Driveshaft Heavy Duty Series Rear 1310 CV Driveshaft with Greaseable U-Joints (97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ, Excluding Unlimited)

Item J125437
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, what's up, guys? Ryan here from ExtremeTerrain, and today I'm here with the Adams Driveshaft Heavy Duty Rear 1310 Greaseable CV Driveshaft. That is gonna be for those of you guys out there that have a 1997 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ. Unfortunately, this particular driveshaft is not going to fit or apply to you Rubicon guys or you Unlimited guys, but we have a couple other options on the website that you can check out. As for those of you that either already have a slip yoke eliminator in a driveshaft, maybe that driveshaft's worn out, or you're looking to upgrade and ditch that factory driveshaft and you're just looking for one hell of a driveshaft that's gonna pair well with a slip yoke eliminator kit that you've picked out. Now, why would you wanna change the driveshaft out?Well, the driveshaft is one of the weak points in our driveline. We have a ton of weak points, including axle shafts, but the driveshaft is gonna be one of those. Now, the factory driveshaft, the rear one, is a slip yoke style, single U-joint and a single U-joint. Now, this is a wear item. At some point in time, this is going to wear out. Either that or you're gonna break it on the trail, which is even worse. The factory driveshaft is designed for factory driveline angles, factory lift, and of course, factory tires. You throw in a lift, you change up those pinion angles, you throw larger tires on there, you put a ton of stress and torque on your rear driveshaft, and that's something that is just waiting to explode. Now, this driveshaft is a very strong driveshaft. And what it's gonna do ultimately is it's gonna give you some peace of mind and some security when you're out there on the trails knowing that the one thing that you're not going to break is gonna be your driveshaft.Now, this driveshaft is a very well designed driveshaft and it's a very strong driveshaft. At each end, you have a 1310 Spicer U-joint. Now, these U-joints are greaseable, and that's one of the nice things that I like about this. This adds to the whole longevity of your driveshaft and it's gonna allow you to grease and maintain those U-joints. The factory has non-greaseable U-joints, so if you get any crud inside of them or if that grease just decides to dry out, you're not gonna be able to maintain those and those U-joints are gonna go bad. Now, the main benefit of going with a driveshaft like this, of course, is you're gonna have a fixed end and you're gonna have a fixed end. It's gonna accordion in the middle, the factory one is just gonna slip in and out of the transfer case, and that is not efficient for adding a lift or suspension articulation, so you're gonna have two fixed ends, and this is just gonna accordion in the middle.Of course, it's gonna reduce drivetrain vibrations, which is something that we all experience when we add a lift to our vehicle. Now, this particular driveshaft, the heavy-duty driveshaft from Adams, is going to support up to a 35-inch tire. Now, if you wanna run 37s, you can go with the Extreme Duty from Adams Driveshaft, and that's gonna allow you to run those 37s, and these bad boys have a lifetime warranty. So, Adams guarantees that you're not gonna twist or break these. And if you do, they're gonna send you a brand new replacement. Of course, now you need to stay within the guidelines. So, for this one, you need to stay 35s or under. And for the Extreme Duty, you'll need to have 37s or under.Now, Adams makes some really amazing driveshafts. They've been making custom driveshafts since 1996, and most of the time, they deal with custom stuff. However, they do offer a ton of options that are directly off the shelf, and this just happens to be one of them. Now, driveshafts in the aftermarket are gonna range all over the place, usually from $300 all the way up to $750. And this is gonna be one of your most affordable options right here, and this one's coming in right around $300. Now, Adams makes amazing products. They design and engineer everything in-house, so you're getting American-made product. This is one of the most affordable options that you can currently go with and it's one of the strongest options that you can go with as well. I run these driveshafts in my TJ and I really beat my TJ up, and I've never had an issue with these at all. So overall, I think that this is a great option to go with if you're looking to go with that upgrade.Now, this is a simple product to install. Comes with brand new hardware for one, and it comes with some Red Loctite. And this is something that you can do on the floor of your garage at home. You don't need to lift the vehicle up or anything like that. The driveshaft is right out there in the open. All you have to do is just unbolt the factory one and then throw this new one in. Now, touching back on those driveline angles, the stock driveshaft is a single U-joint and a single U-Joint with a slip yoke. That means that there's one end that slides into the back of the transfer case. So with a single U-joint setup like that, you wanna have both of the angles very even. Now, when you lift the vehicle, of course, you're tilting the axle down just because the control arms are fixed, and that changes the angle and now points the pinion up at the transfer case a little bit and that's where you wanna switch the transfer case side to a double Cardan U-joint.So this U-joint right here is gonna have a double Cardan joint. And basically, what that means, there's two U-joints here. And with that style setup, what you wanna do is you wanna point the pinion directly at the back of the transfer case, unlike that typical standard single U-joint, single U-joint, which, both of those angles are going to be even. With this style of driveshaft, you wanna point that angle. What it's gonna do, it's gonna reduce vibration, so it's gonna give you a better pinion angle, it's gonna increase the longevity and the life of your driveshaft, and overall, it's just gonna increase the performance as well when you're off-roading. When you're off-roading, especially for those of you guys, I know you're running larger tires and stuff like that, you're gonna add a ton of stress and a ton of torque to this. You're getting better traction, you're adding more weight, all those other things, and more pressure on the ground, and that's something that these little U-joints in the factory one it's just not gonna hold up, especially with those drivetrain angles.So overall, upgrading to a slip yoke eliminator, getting rid of that archaic system, and going with an updated and brand new system such as the double Cardan joint right here and a slip yoke eliminator, overall, it's just a better option when you're off-roading and you're an avid off-roader. Of course, this driveshaft is coated in a nice black powder coating. Adam preps this thing and sends it to you with brand new hardware, nicely painted, and that's just gonna provide a lot of corrosion protection to this. Now, of course, it is underneath the vehicle. If it does get any scratches or anything like that, you wanna cover up that, you can just touch it up with some simple paint, some Rustoleum, as a very affordable option, just to keep this thing from rusting out. So with that being said, let's show you how to get this installed and what it looks like in the Jeep.Tools we used for this install, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, 1/2-inch drive socket, 1/4-inch drive, 8-millimeter socket, 1/4-inch drive, 8-millimeter wrench.What we're gonna do, we're gonna start at the axle. We have the Jeep up in the air. You don't necessarily have to have the Jeep up in the air. You can just crawl under it depending on how tall it is and take that driveshaft out. So, on the axle, we're gonna have two little U-joint straps, retaining straps. These are both gonna have two bolts in them, so there's gonna be four total, and you are gonna use an 8-millimeter socket to crack these free. So, if you have it on the ground, of course, this is gonna stay put. If you have it up in the air, you might wanna put your e-brake on, keep it from spinning around on you while you crack all these bolts loose. Now, we are gonna reuse these retaining straps, so you do wanna set those aside in a good place. That way later on when you go to put the driveshaft in, you'll be able to find them.All right, so we've got both of those straps off. What we're gonna do, we're gonna go to the back of the transfer case. We're gonna disconnect the driveshaft from that yoke. Okay. Now, of course, since we're dealing with aftermarket driveshafts here, your hardware may vary. I'm gonna use a 1/2-inch to get these four bolts out. You can see that we just need to go all the way around and get all those out and then we can pull the driveshaft out. So, just find the right size, take all those bolts out. Get this last one cracked free and get that bolt all the way out, and then we'll remove the shaft. So over on the axle side, what we're gonna do, we'll just get a little pry bar. We need to pry it out of the yoke on the transmission. After that, grab the whole thing, two hands, take it out, put it somewhere safe.Now, to get this new driveshaft installed is a relatively simple process. We're gonna start with the transfer case side and we actually get brand new bolts for the install. Now, Adams wants you to clean the oil residue off of the bolts, and then they give you a little packet of Red Loctite to put on the bolts. That way when you install these, tighten them down, you won't risk them loosening up. So, we're gonna get that installed. Get all these bolts started. Now, these new bolts that you get, they have a 12-point head on them, so you can either use a socket that's 12-sided, or you can use a box wrench. I have a ratcheting box wrench that's an 8-millimeter, so we're gonna go ahead and run all these in. You can also use a 5/16. So, we wanna go around, we wanna tighten these pretty evenly. You wanna make sure that it sits all the way in. You're gonna have these little alignment stops right here on the end of this yoke. You wanna make sure that they drop in there, there's no dirt inside of there that's keeping it from sitting flush.All right, so we've got this side in, so let's get the other side in. All right, so we got a little bit of grease that squirted out the end of this when I compressed it. I'm gonna take a rag, wipe that off. Now, the next thing that we have to do, Adams, so conveniently, wrapped some black electrical tape around these ends. That's to keep the end caps from falling off, because there's little tiny needle bearings in there, and the last thing that you wanna do is lose some of those. That renders your U-joint useless. So, we're just gonna peel this off. We're gonna do it very gently, because we don't wanna pull the caps all the way off and lose those little bearings.All right. So, installation on the axle side is the same thing. We're gonna have these little alignment pins. You wanna make sure that that U-joint slides in there. You might have to take your e-brake off just to get it to line up fully. And then once you get it in there, we're just gonna reinstall these little retaining straps. Also, if you have a little bit of that Red Loctite left over, or if you have any Blue Loctite, you can put some on these bolts as well. Just kinda keeps these things from working themselves loose while you're beating your Jeep up in the woods and driving it around. All right, so once we get them in, take that same 8-millimeter, 5/16, whatever you got that's gonna fit on these little guys, and we're gonna tighten them up. Once again, you wanna try to tighten them up evenly. So we're just gonna go back and forth. Make sure that the U-joint end caps seat properly, this whole thing isn't crooked or anything. We'll give them that final torque and then what you wanna do, you wanna just go around and tighten them all up. And if you can, you can torque them to anywhere between 20 to 30 foot-pounds. Just make sure they're nice and tight. That Loctite will set in, and then you'll be good to go.After you get this thing installed, you may have pushed a little bit of grease out. If you have pushed some grease out, you just wanna fill it back up. Now, to maintain this driveshaft properly, every one of these U-joints, as well as this shaft, is greaseable. So what you wanna do is just drive it around and pretty much every time you change your oil or every 3000 miles, you just wanna go back over and just fill these joints up just with a little bit of grease, and that's just gonna push any crud out and make sure that all those bearings inside are nice and lubricated. And then of course, after driving it around a little bit, you wanna check those bolts and make sure that they're tight.However, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. For more videos and products like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Custom-Made Greasable Rear Driveshaft
      • Designed for Jeeps with up to 6-Inch Lift
      • Clearance for up to 35-Inch Tires
      • Heavy Duty 1310 CV Shaft
      • Shaft Wall Thickness: 2 1/2-Inch x 0.95-Inch 
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty on Welds and Tubing, 1-Year
      • Requires a Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit to Function Properly
      • Fits All 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJs  Excluding Rubicon and Unlimited Models

      Description

      For Lifts Up to 6-Inches. Confidently head out into backcountry in your lifted Wrangler TJ by upgrading to a custom-made Adams Driveshaft Heavy Duty Rear 1310 CV Greasable Driveshaft. This rear driveshaft features a strong CV shaft and greasable u-joints to stand up to the stresses of suspension lifts (up to 6 inches) and tires as tall as 35-inches without risk of breakage.

      Heavy-Duty Construction. Adams Driveshaft chooses a heavy-duty 2 1/2-Inch x 0.95-Inch thick wall 1310 CV shaft that is stronger than stock and Spicer greasable 1310 u-joints for longer-lasting smooth performance.

      Lifetime Warranty. Adams Driveshaft warrants the Rear Driveshaft against broken welds and twisted tubing due to torque for their lifetime. The remaining components have a 1-year limited warranty against defects. For details on exclusions (and inclusions), please see the manufacturer's website.

      Application. The Adams Driveshaft Heavy Duty Rear 1310 CV Greasable Driveshaft is designed for use on all 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJs, except for Unlimited models.

      Technical Note. This Driveshaft requires the use of a Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit to function properly.

      Fitment: 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Details

      Adams Driveshaft ASDTJ-1310CVR-G

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Driveshaft
      • (4) CV Bolts
      4.9

      Customer Reviews (38)

        Questions & Answers

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