(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$186.99 (kit)FREE Shipping Market Price $215.99 You Save 13% ($29.00)
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Hey, guys. So, today I'm here with the Teraflex 1.5-inch Spacer Lift Kit fitting all 2018 and newer four-door JL Wranglers. So, there are a number of different benefits that come with lifting your Wrangler including performance as well as aesthetics and a spacer lift is a very easy and affordable way to gain some of those key benefits as well as getting a little bit of height added to your Wrangler. So, this option by Teraflex is gonna come with a two-inch spacer in the front and a 1.5-inch spacer in the rear. And that's gonna create some more space inside the wheel well giving you better suspension up travel and better performance on some lighter trails and then you also are getting an aggressive stance in leveling out that rake in the hood that comes from the factory. And this is going to be perfect for the daily driver just looking to get a little bit of extra height, but also for somebody who's looking to gain a little bit of performance on some of those lighter trails. Now, this is even perfect for the Jeep owner who has some heavy gear or some heavy armor in their Wrangler and it's weighing it down and they're looking just to level it out overall at a very affordable price. So, as far as tires go, this Jeep came in with the Rubicon 33s and that's exactly what this lift kit is going to allow. So, this kit is going to be rated for a 33-inch tire for the Sport, the Sahara, and even the Rubicon and it's gonna fill out the wheel well very nicely while still giving you room for up travel for those lighter trails and creating an overall aggressive stance. Now, as far as 35-inch tires go, for you Rubicon owners you will be able to fit those since your fender does sit a little higher. However, Teraflex does recommend that you have a two-inch bump stop in the front and the rear to accommodate for that extra height. Now, as far as 37s go, guys, this is just a 1.5-inch spacer lift. 37s are not gonna be able to fit on here comfortably. You may be able to get them physically on your Wrangler but you're not gonna have a lot of room and you most likely will have a lot of rubbing, especially with the factory front bumper. Now, like I mentioned before, this is going to be a very affordable option at roughly $160 making this one of your most affordable options on the page for a spacer lift. Now, lift kit prices usually go off of what is included in the kit. Usually, kits with more components are a little bit more expensive and then vice versa. And since this is a pretty basic spacer lift, that is why this is gonna be so cost-effective. So, there are other less expensive options for spacer lifts on the site. However, this is gonna offer you a little bit more of a benefit in comparison to some of those other choices that will usually only come with just a spacer for the front just to level out that rake and not give you an overall lift for the front and the back like this one does or it's overall just going to be a smaller lift rather than a 1.5-inch and maybe a one-inch or even a half-inch just to level out that rake.Now, what I would of liked to see out of this lift kit is a pair of shock adapters just to accommodate for that extra height just so we can get full shock travel. However, this does work with the factory shocks. Now, if you were looking for a kit that does include those like I mentioned before since that's an extra component that you're adding the kit, it will be a little bit more expensive. So, overall, I do really think that this is a great kit, it's good for the price and Teraflex is a very reputable name. They make high-quality products and I can definitely tell that this is going to last a very long time and offer you those key benefits that you may be looking for. Install is gonna be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, this is going to take some basic hand tools and about two to three hours worth of your time. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for my install were a pair of safety glasses, a dead blow, pair of vise grips, a small pry bar, cut-off wheel, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 21-millimeter, and 22-millimeter deep socket, 21 and an 18-millimeter shallow socket, 17-millimeter and an 18-millimeter open-ended wrench, a half-inch drive hand ratchet, a five-inch extension, a pneumatic impact, an electric drive impact.So, the first thing you wanna do is get your Jeep up in the air whether it's on a lift or on a jack and jack stands, then you're gonna go ahead and take off the tires. You are gonna need a 22-millimeter deep socket in order to get the lug nuts off. And then what we're gonna do next is support our front axle. So I have two pole jacks here. I'm gonna put one on either side of the axle. So, after our axle is supported our next step is gonna be to remove the bottom bolts on our sway bar end links. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter deep socket and an 18-millimeter wrench to remove that bottom bolt. So, now we can do the same thing for the other side. However, we do have a flag nut on our track bar bracket for the other side of the sway bar end link so I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket and a hand ratchet in order to get that bolt out. So, now we can remove our axle side track bar bolt with a 21-millimeter socket. I'm gonna be using a deep socket just to clear our tie rod here and I would recommend to crack it free with a breaker bar. So, after you wiggle the bolt out, we can move on to our shocks. Then we can go ahead and remove our lower shock bolts. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter wrench and an 18-millimeter socket. Now, we can do the same thing on the other side.So, what we're gonna do at this point is start to lower our axle but you do wanna keep an eye on your brake lines. We are going to eventually pull off the brake line bracket that is on the lower control arm. But first, we're just going to start to lower our axle down. So, in order to pry this bracket off, what I usually do is make a little slice on the top of this bracket just to break down the structure a little bit so we can pry it back, but you definitely want to be very careful if you're doing this. You only wanna make just a little wedge in the top of the bracket here and be very careful of your line or what you could do is just cut it down at the bottom here and then pry it back that way. I usually just cut it up at this bracket up here. Wiggle that out and then we can take a 15-millimeter socket and remove the full bracket. We can do the same thing on the other side.So, after that brake line bracket is off, what we just wanna make sure we do is disconnect our breather hose for our axle on this upper brake line bracket. You're just gonna need a trim removal tool and you can pop that clip out. That's gonna give it a little bit more slack so we can lower down our axle. All right. So, once the axle is lowered enough, you can take out your spring. We can do the same with the other side then we can go grab our spacers. So, our next step is to take out our factory isolator. All you have to do is just slide that down, get that out of the way, and then what we can do is take our new spacer, this is gonna be the two-inch spacer that's gonna be for the front. We're going to find the notches underneath here, put our isolator down at the bottom here, and then we can insert this up at the top and make sure that the two pins on the spacer line up with the holes on either side. So, after that spacer is in there, what we can do is take our spring and go ahead and reinstall that making sure the pigtail end sits correctly over the spring perch and then what we can do is just compress it a little bit, make sure it's sitting in place and we can move over to the other side.So, what we can do now is raise up our axle so we can reconnect our shocks as well as our sway bar end links. You wanna make sure that that pigtail is sitting in the slot on your spring perch as well as the spacer. You can go ahead and start evenly raising this. So, I compressed the axle and it doesn't look like we're able to connect our shocks while it's up in the air. I can't compress it enough to have the shock be connected just because we put two inches of lift in that coil and the shock is maxed out once we have the axle at full droop or full compression in the air. So, what we're gonna have to do in a little bit once we get this on the ground, we're gonna guide the shocks into place and bolt them up that way. But next we're gonna go ahead and pull up our sway bar end links and then we'll move to the rear.So, once that flag nut is on there, we can tighten that down with a 18-millimeter socket. Now, we can do the same thing on the other side. So, because we're gonna have to reconnect our front track bar as well as our shocks when the Jeep is on its own weight on the ground, what we're gonna do next is take our pole jacks and head on back to our rear axle and get started on our rear installation. So, we're gonna start off by doing the same thing that we did in the front, supporting our axle and then we're gonna go ahead and take off our sway bar end links. So, just like the front, we're going to be using an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. Then we can go ahead and disconnect our track bar using a 21-millimeter socket. Make sure you grab that flag nut. Then, we can go ahead and disconnect our shocks. We're just going to take out this lower bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench. You may have to compress the axle just a little bit so you can pull down on the shock. Same thing for the other side.So, before we lower our axle down, what I wanna do is take off the brake line bracket for our emergency brake or our parking brake. You're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket, I'm also using a five-inch extension just to reach it behind our filler nut here. We're gonna completely discard this after. That'll give us a little bit of slack so we can lower our axle. What we can do now is start to lower our axle and also keep an eye on all of our brake lines, make sure we're not maxing them out, but we should be good. So, once you have the axle low enough, so you have some play in your spring, what we can just do is remove our spring and our isolator. We can do the same thing for the other side. You may have a little bit of an issue pulling it out from the front just because of the track bar bracket. So, if you want to pull it out the other way, may be a little bit easier. Just also make sure that that isolator is also out.So, what we're gonna do now is bolt our spacer into place. So, unlike the front where we sandwiched in between our isolator in the spring perch, we do need to bolt this into our spring perch. So, you are provided a bolt, a flat washer, and a flange nut as well as a split washer that's gonna go on top of our spring perch. So, we need to go position this into place and then we'll bolt it in place. So, put this split washer at the top, then you're gonna put the bolt through the split washer, then we're gonna line up our spacer with that hole making sure that it sits flush up against our spring perch. Then what we can do is grab our flange nut, start to thread that on. So, the spacer is not sitting in the correct spot just yet but I do want to get this a little bit tightened up so we can get it in the correct spot. So, what I'm gonna do is use a 17-millimeter wrench up top to keep the bolt head still. Gonna use a 15-millimeter socket, a deep socket to tighten that up. Just making sure that that spacer is fitting in that little hole there and sitting flush. We can completely tighten that down.So, what we can do now is take our isolator making sure that that knob is in the hole in our spacer. Then we can take our spring making sure that the smaller coil is facing the top and the larger coil on the rear spring is facing the bottom. Put that into place. I'm gonna compress our axle a little bit just so this stays. Then we can move on to our other spring. What we can just start to do at this point is start compressing our axle into place. Again, you just wanna make sure that you're watching your lift points while you're doing this. So, it looks like we're gonna have to connect our rear shocks on the ground just like our fronts because they are maxed out right now. But it looks like our track bar is lining up in the rear so what we can do is reconnect our rear track bar. So, we're gonna take our factory hardware, secure that down. So, once we have our flag nut on, what we can do is take our 21-millimeter socket and tighten that back up. All right. Now, we can attach our sway bar end links. So, I'm starting on the driver side. We're gonna attach our sway bar end links with our factory hardware and then tighten them down with that 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench. Same thing for the other side.So, for our last two steps, we need the Jeep down on its own weight. So, what I'm gonna do it throw the tires back on and then we can reconnect all of our shocks as well as our front track bar. So, now that we have the Jeep mostly on its own weight, this is lining up a lot better than it did in the air. So, what we can do if it's still not lining up all the way is just pull it down a little bit so we can get that bolt in, making sure that the nut side of the bolt is facing inward away from that tire. Then we can secure it down. Then we can tighten that back up with an 18-millimeter socket and our 18-millimeter wrench. So, we can do the same thing for the front. Then we can tighten those back up with the same 18-millimeter socket and wrench we used in the rear. So, now we're going to reattach our front track bar. I would recommend to have somebody in the driver seat. You do need the Jeep on its own weight and you can turn the wheel back and forth to align the track bar with the track bar bracket on the axle. So, have somebody in there now. Our track bar bolt went through. Now, we just have to secure that nut on the other side. And then once that is threaded on, you can take a 21-millimeter socket and tighten that up.So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Lift Kit Type
|Lift Kit Includes Shocks
|Shocks Not Included
Better Lift and Clearance. Does your Jeep Wrangler JL 4 Door lack the height to clear certain off-road trails? If so, it’s time to get this Teraflex 1.50-inch Performance Spacer Lift Kit. This lift kit provides 1.50 inches of additional lift, designed to accommodate a larger tire for better clearance during off-road driving. With this much clearance, you can roll over rough off-road terrain with no problem whatsoever.
Reliable Spring Spacers. At the core of this Teraflex Performance Spacer Lift Kit are versatile front and rear spring spacers. These spacers are designed to correct your Wrangler’s factory nose-down rake for a more aggressive look. In addition, the additional height provided by these spacers help compensate for additional aftermarket gear.
Simple Bolt-On Installation. Installing this Teraflex Performance Spacer Lift Kit requires only simple hand tools and a bolt-on process. No cutting or drilling is necessary for installation.
Limited 1-Year Warranty. This Teraflex Performance Spacer Lift Kit comes with a 1-year warranty on materials and workmanship. This is to ensure the lift kit complies with strict factory standards.
Application. This Teraflex 1.50-Inch Performance Spacer Lift Kit fits all 2018-2024 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-door models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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