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Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit (07-21 4WD Tundra)

Item TU2228
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. I'm Eric with ExtremeTerrain. In this video, we're gonna do a quick review and install of the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit for all 2007 and later four-wheel drive Tundras. Now, this kit's really ideal for the Tundra owner out there who wants to not only take the factory rake out of their truck stance, but they wanna add some ground clearance as well. Now, real quick, what do I mean by factory rake? Well, I'm talking about that slightly nose down, leaning forward kind of stance that most pickup trucks come with straight from the factory. Now, car manufacturers do that to kind of compensate for what most truck owners use their trucks for, which is hauling cargo around. And when you load up the back, the rear-end is gonna sag a little bit. So when you add cargo to the back, it's kind of leveled out stance. Now, if that's not really a concern for you and you wanna level out that stance without hauling around a lot of cargo, this is a perfect kit to do that. Now, the largest tire you can run with this kit is a 33-inch. You will have to do some minor plastic trimming, especially if you're running a larger tread pattern like a mud terrain.Now, lift kits come in all different types of configurations from the more basic spacer blocks on up to the full-on suspension lift kits that replace darn near everything underneath your truck. Now, this kit isn't quite the most basic out there because we are replacing a few components. Now, what you do get with this kit, on the front spacer blocks, you get CNC precision-machined aluminum blocks, but you also get Pro Billet aluminum blocks for the rear as well, and that's not something you see in a lot of lift kits. A lot of lift kits tend to use steel back there and what you're getting there is you're getting a stronger material and you're also getting material that's more corrosion-resistant. It's gonna provide longer life down the road. Now, the front spacers measured just under two inches, but with your suspension geometry, it will give you three inches of lift in the front.Now, like I said, a lot of lift kits come in all different types of configurations. This is one of the more basic ones out there, but the advantage to that is the price. You're looking at a right around $225 for this kit. And if all you're looking to do is level electric truck stance and get a little more ground clearance out of it, that's really an affordable price to do just that. Now, as far as the installation goes, guys, I'm giving it a solid three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. There are a number of steps that we're gonna have to go through to get this kit installed. And when we're working on the rear axle, you're gonna wanna be able to adequately support that rear axle because we are going to be disconnecting the springs from the axle, meaning you're gonna have to not only have your truck lifted up and supported with proper jack stands, but you need a floor jack that's sufficient to raise and lower that axle as needed so we can fit these new spacer blocks in. With that said, budget about four hours of your time, nothing crazy exotic in terms of tools that you're gonna need. You probably have most of them in your toolkit already. So let's go ahead, take a look at the tools we're gonna use and move ahead with our installation.All right, guys. Tools we're gonna use in this install include a mallet, a hammer, pry bar, flat-bladed screwdriver, both electric and pneumatic impact guns, a hand socket, wrench, 17-millimeter, 19-millimeter, 22-millimeter, and 24-millimeter, crescent wrenches, a breaker bar. We're also gonna have 10-millimeter, 12-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 14-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 19-millimeter, 22-millimeter, and 24-millimeter sockets, a swivel socket, an extension, and a pair of fliers. All right, guys. Now, once you have your truck safely lifted and supported and tested, make sure it's not gonna move on you, we're gonna go ahead and get started. Basically, all we're gonna do is just the bare minimum we need to do to get components out of the way so we can remove our strut and go from there. So go ahead and grab a 19-millimeter mill socket and let's get started. All right, guys. Now with your 19-mill socket, we're gonna go ahead and remove this bolt here that's part of our sway bar end link.All right, guys. Now we're gonna have to disconnect our ball joint here, but before we can do that, you got to remove this cotter pin. So go ahead and grab some needle nose pliers. All right, guys. Now you need a 19-millimeter socket for the castle nut here for your upper ball joint. And once you have that loosened, we're not gonna remove it all the way. We wanted a few threads on because we're gonna tap right here with a hammer and see if we can get our ball joint to come loose. All right, guys. Now go ahead and grab a pry bar. We're gonna stick it in underneath the hinge pin for upper control arm and we're gonna pull down on this to relieve the tension here so we can just kind of take the nut off by hand. All right, guys. Now you have four 14-millimeter nuts that we're gonna take off the top here, these studs that are holding the top part of our strut in place. These two back ones are probably gonna be hard for you to see.If you're blessed with a relatively clean truck like we are, once you break them loose, you should be able to spin them off by hand. All right, guys. Now we're gonna undo the clamp up here that's holding our brake line to the upper control arm. Just to give ourselves a little bit of slack, use a 10-millimeter socket. All right, guys. Now, to get our skid plate off first, we're gonna go up to this locking clip right here and these two bolts. So this type of flathead screwdriver, get this one out. Now, for these two bolts, you're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket. All right, guys. Now we have three more bolts. They're kind of recessed up in these holes here and here and one on the back. You're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket for those.All right, guys. Now, last, once you have all that hardware removed, go ahead and push up on the front and to the left. Couple of recess hooks up top there that are kind of snag in the front-end of your skid plate on. All right, guys. Now we're gonna use a 24-mil socket here just to loosen up this nut and we're going to do the same thing for the other bolt that's holding the bottom of our control arm to the frame. We're just gonna loosen them. We don't wanna remove them. All right, guys. Now we're gonna remove this nut here that's the bolt that's holding in the bottom of our strut to the control arm. You're gonna need a 22-millimeter socket for this. All right, guys. Now go ahead and remove the bolt. All right, guys. Now we have that lower bolt out. You should be able to lift the strut up a little bit to get it unseated down below, drop it down a little bit, and we're gonna pivot it out the top and pull it out.All right, guys. Now we have our strut off the truck. I wanna put up here on the table. We're gonna have to do just a little bit of assembly work, getting our block onto the top of the strut. One thing I wanna point out is these posts are spaced out differently all the way around, so there's pretty much only one way that this space was gonna fit on there. And you wanna pay attention to that because it's also gonna dictate how you throw it up into the truck. Now, on the strut tower itself, you'll see this little knob or nub that kind of sticks out here between these two studs. And this is what's gonna be pointing out when it's on factory setting, but now we're gonna be adding the spacer to it and it's gonna rotate our strut, I don't know, roughly 45 degrees. And that's just a rough estimate on my part, but it's gonna rotate it, and why that's important is that's also going to misalign the lower end of the strut and where you need to put the lower strut bolt through. So let me just show you how to line this up first, then I'll show you something else here in a second. But once you get this on, that's pretty much the only way it's gonna go.Now, if you notice, there's a little divot right here that is kind of machined out on the top surface and that's to mark these two are the outermost stud. So this basically is gonna be facing you as you're putting the strut back into the truck. And just make note of that and that way it'll help you line up the lower strut mount so that it aligns properly and will fit in the bracket properly and make installation that's a lot easier. So go ahead and take your factory nuts, get them started on there. And again, these are 14-millimeter.All right, guys. So this is the side that's basically gonna be facing us or basically facing outward on the truck when we put the strut up into place. So these holes will line up up top and we're gonna use the bolts that are included in the kit to thread through the top of the strut tower bracket. Now, down below here, once you have this mounted on, the lower mount for the strut is gonna be about 45 degrees off. So you're basically gonna have to put this into a vice or you could also start it by mounting it up in the truck with a couple of bolts and then sliding through something like a socket extension or something with some leverage that will fit through this hole and basically turn this. It's gonna be pretty stiff, so it might take some effort, but turn this so that it's basically in line and lines up here like that. And you'll see that as we mount it on the truck, how it fits in there.All right, guys. Now we're gonna start our strut up in there. Go ahead and grab a bolt. It's one of these out of the kit along with a lock washer and a flat washer. And once we get the strut kind of lined up in a place, we're gonna start one bolt in there just to kind of hold it up in there. Now, to get your strut in there, you're gonna have to wrap it in, kind of the reverse of how you got your strut out of here, except things are gonna be a little tighter because we now have the spacer on top. All right, guys. Now we're gonna get the other three bolts started. All right. Using our floor jack, we're going to lift underneath the lower control arm and raise it up just enough so that the holes line up with our control arm and the bottom of the strut. It's a little snag, guys. You might have to tap it in a little bit. Use a deadbolt if you need to. Throw the nut back on. Just have it hand-tight for now. We're gonna raise the lower control arm up a little bit more and tighten up our bolts up top. All right, guys. Now let's tighten these down with a 16-mill socket. It might make it a little bit easier if you do them a little bit at a time on each kind of rotated around. All right. So we're gonna continue raising up with our floor jack so that we can get it close enough to reconnect our steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.All right, guys. Now, as you're lifting the lower control arm, make sure you're not lifting off of your floor jacks, but once you get it up close, feed in the ball joint into the spindle here and pull it down with a pry bar and get your castle nut on. All right, guys. Now, go ahead, get your factory bolt for your sway bar end link. Let's get it in there. And this is a 21-millimeter socket. All right. Go ahead and tighten it up using a 19-millimeter socket. All right. Now we're gonna retighten the bolts for our lower control arm that we loosened earlier. Again, a 24-millimeter socket for these. All right. Now we're gonna retighten the bolt that's attached to the lower end of our strut using a 19-millimeter socket. All right. Then we're gonna retighten that castle nut here on the top of our steering knuckle using a 19-millimeter socket. And you just have to make sure that you have a gap there that you can put your cotter pin through. All right. Reinsert the cotter pin. All right, guys. Now we're gonna reattach the bracket that secures our brake lines and tighten down with a 10-millimeter socket.All right, guys. Now everything we've shown you on the driver's side, go ahead and repeat that on the passenger front side as well. Now, the next phase of this install is gonna be a little tricky and we're gonna be installing the spacers underneath the front differential supports here. And that is to kind of lower the front differential down a little bit and decrease some of that harsh angle that you're gonna get from adding that much lift to the front end of the truck. You don't want your CV axles bending down at an extreme. So these spacers are gonna drop it down maybe about an inch or so, and that'll hopefully take some of that angle out. So what we have here is we have our truck supported by pole jacks...not the truck, but the front differential, our truck's up on a lift so we can show you guys this better video.So if you're doing this at home, you're gonna have to support both your truck and your differential. So I have a pole jack under each side here. There are three mounting points for your front differential. We're gonna put spacers in two of them. And the tricky part is these are bolts that go all the way up through and there's a nut up top here. And that's the tricky part, is going to be able to get a wrench on that nut and hold it in place so we can undo the bolts. So for the passenger side here, I'm gonna slide the wrench in from the side in, and for the driver's side one, I found a slot here. I'm gonna be kind of going in from the front. But as long as you get the crescent wrench on there to secure that nut, you should be able to get these bolts out. Go ahead and grab yourself a breaker bar and 19-millimeter socket and a 19-millimeter crescent to do this. So it's basically 19-millimeter tools on both sides. But we're gonna break it loose with the breaker bar and then we'll probably get an impact gun on there and go from there.All right, guys. Now, if you follow along your steering linkage all the way back, the nut is underneath that steering linkage and I'm sliding the crescent wrench in and it's running basically parallel to the tie rod or steering linkage. And I have that on there. So I'm gonna ahead and get our breaker bar in here. Once you get that loose, you can actually be able to twist it. Now, make sure at this point you have your differential supported here because once you loosen these up, the differential is gonna wanna come down. And now I have this loose, I'm just gonna take this out by hand. And I could have a whole lot of threads to undo here. All right, guys. Now we're looking at the driver's side support here. So I'm gonna get my crescent wrench up here above our sway bar and kind of between these lines here. You wanna be careful. You can eyeball all that up. On the nut there, obviously [inaudible 00:20:00]. And just like on the other side, once you pop it loose, it will come down fairly easily. All right, guys. Now, to lower these, it's not like a rear axle where you can lower them a whole lot on one side or the other. You kind of have to do it more or less evenly, so each side a little bit at a time. We'll just keep going like that until we got enough space to put our spacers in there. All right, guys. Now, you're looking at the driver's side mount right here. And as we lower it, it's not gonna wanna come down too far because there's another mount behind it. It's only gonna allow it to droop so far. So we have it pretty close. Go ahead and grab your spacer, kind of pull down on it a little bit. You should be able to get it kind of up in there. And we'll grab our bolt and thread it up there and make sure we get everything lined up.All right. So I'm just gonna get the bolt here and fish it up in there. We'll have a little wiggle room and I can see it coming up through there. So we do have proper alignment with the spacer. So we're gonna go ahead and do the other side and get that started so we can start raising this back up and that'll make it fit even better as we start cinching these up. All right. So in order to get the driver's side one in, we had to lower this one down quite a bit. So this one goes in a lot easier. I'm just gonna start raising it back up. Now we're pretty close. We'll get a bolt. All right, guys. Now I'm standing underneath the engine. Go ahead and grab one of these lock nuts that are included in the kit. You're gonna wanna get it started. I have the bolts started up in there quite a ways, but there's just a couple of threads exposed. So I'm gonna get this nut started.All right, guys. Now we have the bolt over here started. Go ahead and grab the other nut. And it's really tight. Use both hands going up over the frame rail and I'm just gonna get it started a couple of threads before we tap the bolt in too far. And once it started by a couple of threads, we'll get a tool in there and cinch it up. All right, guys. Now I have our crescent wrench, a 21-millimeters sitting up on top of the frame rail here and it's holding the nut up top. Not really gonna be able to see it on camera. It's a really tight fit. I had to lay the wrench basically down on top of the frame rail and now from the underside. Because I have my fingers up in here, I'm not gonna use a power tool on this. Don't wanna pinch anything. So I'm gonna use a socket down below here with a 21-millimeter socket on this one. All right. We're gonna do the same thing here on the passenger side. And as we go, guys, you wanna make sure you're kind of, whatever you have supporting this, raise it up a little bit. We're gonna do that, there we go. And we're gonna continue tightening.All right, guys. Just real quick, I wanna show you on the table what we're gonna be doing in the next steps because we're not really gonna be able to show you a camera angle of it specifically, but we're gonna be reinstalling our skid plate and we're gonna be including the spacers that come with this kit and that's to give it a little bit more clearance to your sway bar because it is coming down more with the lift. So basically, they give you longer bolts in the kit because your factory ones won't be quite long enough. I had to source my own washers for this, unfortunately, but we're just basically gonna be stacking it like that and the spacer simply goes between the skid plate and the frame. So once we get that mounted up in place, we'll go from there. All right, guys. Now we're gonna put this back in place. We need to sandwich it between the plastic bumper cover and then get the hooks on the front-end hooked into the radiator support. You get a hung out like that and it should hang in place there for you while you get your hardware ready. All right. Now with a bolt washer and our spacer, get that started like that. Now I'm using a short 13-mil socket with an extension bar using a short socket so that the bolt does not drop down into the socket. Push it up like this. All right, guys. Now I have our next bolt with washer ready to go in the socket here. I've got spacer here. There is enough room to kind of squeeze your hand up on the side. Get that spacer in there. Now we'll do the same thing over there. Guys, these last two screws and a locking clip.All right, guys. Now, obviously, we're at the rear of the truck. We've finished up everything on the front-end so now we've got to get our spacer blocks in underneath our springs and on top of the axle on a perch right there and we'll show you that more close up in a second. So at this point, make sure you have your axle supported. Once we disconnect the U-bolts and then wrap around the springs onto the axle, the axle will be free-floating at that point and the only thing connecting it to the vehicle is gonna be the driveshaft, and you don't wanna put any stress on that. So we have it up on a lift. I've got three pole jacks on here, one under each end of the axle and then one under the pinion part of the differential there where it connects up to the driveshaft because once this disconnects, not only does it wanna sway around a little bit, but it'll wanna twist a little bit like that and you don't want that to happen either. So let's go ahead. We're gonna first disconnect our shocks and go from there.All right, guys. Now, so we can droop our axle enough. We have to disconnect the bottom of the shock here. If we don't do that, the axel will not droop far enough for us to get our spacer block in. So grab a 17-millimeter crescent wrench and a socket and get this lower bolt out. There's a little bit of tension on that bolt, so you might wanna lift up on your axle if you're doing this at home with a floor jack. Just kind of adjust it a little bit and get it out like that. After you've removed the lower bolt on the passenger side shock, we're gonna go after these nuts underneath here that hold this bracket up to our U-bolts. Now, I just wanna emphasize, as we're doing this, you wanna kind of do things equally, like once we do these, we're gonna do the other side as well because eventually once we start drooping the axle, we have to droop it simultaneously. You don't want to be in a situation where one side is a lot lower than the other and then it's off-balance and your axle might wanna slide sideways on you. And that would be bad. So let's go ahead. We're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket to get our factory nuts out of here. As you saw there, guys, after we got the last nuts off, this bracket still kind of hangs. Let's do the outward tension from the U-bolt. So you can just kind of grab that U-bolt and pinch it inward a little bit and this will come off. And go ahead and lift the U-bolts off the top. And do the same thing on the other side.All right, guys. Now is the time we're gonna start drooping the axle a little bit. So if you're doing this at home with a floor jack underneath this part of your axle underneath the differential here, that's a great place to do it and the advantage to doing that at home is once you droop it here, it's kind of even. I'm on pole jacks here. So I'm gonna do a little bit on this side and a little bit on that side and try and keep it more or less even as we're going down. Adjusting the central one underneath the pinion, seal it as well. And then we're gonna be drooping this just far enough so that we can fit that spacer block in and that's as far as we need to take it. And I'm already seeing daylight between the axle and the bottom of our leaf springs. So we're making good progress there. All right, guys. Now, as we're drooping the axle, we notice we're starting to get some tension up here on these flexible brake lines as well as this line right here. So we're gonna undo these four brackets and see if that gives us a little bit more slack because we need a little bit more ways to go in order to get our spacer blocks in. Grab yourself a 12-millimeter socket to undo these. And as you can see, that one popped up pretty well there because we did have a little bit of tension on there.All right, guys. We're also seeing some tension on this line here. So we're gonna undo this bracket. Again, a 12-millimeter socket. And we have one over here on the passenger side as well. All right, guys. Now we have it drooped down quite a bit. Go ahead and grab your spacer block. The pin that's part of the block has to be pointing down. That's gonna drop in the hole there and then the corresponding pin that's on the bottom of our leaf springs will drop into the hole on top of our spacer block. You can push up on the spring a little bit and kind of walk the block up into place. Now it's sunk into place. Now as we raise the axle back up, we just have to kind of wiggle the axle back and forth until it lines up with the pin on the bottom side of the springs. And go ahead and repeat that on the other side. All right. Now we have both blocks up on the pedestals. We're gonna lift our axle again. Obviously, we're gonna do it evenly again, and as we go, just kind of move the axle back and forth gently so that the pins will pop into the holes on the top of our spacer blocks.Now, I don't know if you can see this or not, guys. As I'm lifting it up, the hole on the block is a little bit to the front of the pin so we can either try pushing back on the axle gently. If that's not doing it for you, lift up on the pinion and that's gonna twist the axle a little bit and push the block back a little bit. And that right there, what I just did, helped us line up a little bit better on the block until it starts falling into place just like that. All right, guys. Now grab the new U-bolts out of your kit and we're gonna drop them into place. All right. Now go ahead and grab your bracket here and we're gonna start it up on the new U-bolts. You're gonna have to pinch the U-bolt in a little bit. And because you have to pinch it there, it gives tension on that and allows that bracket to hang up there without any nuts on there yet. So let's go ahead and grab our washers and new nuts out of the kit.All right, guys. Now I'm just gonna start these by hand. And these are pretty heavy-duty nuts here. They're gonna require a 22-millimeter socket. So we're gonna be using our pneumatic impact gun. So go ahead and start all four of them. Do the same thing on the other side. And then as we tighten these up, you're gonna wanna do it kind of like when you're putting a wheel back on your car, start on one side and cinch it up. Not all the way, but then go to the other side and do opposite sides, doing it a little bit at a time because if you do too much on one side, then this bracket's gonna cant like this and you don't want that. You want it nice and even so that it's holding the axle squarely up against your block and your springs.All right. Now that we have all four of our U-bolts all cinched up and tightened up on both sides, go ahead and start raising your axle some more so we can get the bottom end of our shock lined up with the bracket that holds it tight to the axle. All right. Now, we're almost there, guys. Now, obviously, I have to go back and forth and make sure I'm doing this simultaneously. Again, if you have a floor jack underneath the pumpkin of your differential, it's gonna raise more or less evenly, but just make sure you're doing that. And we're only a few more cranks away getting lined up here. All right, guys. Now grab your 17-millimeter tools and tighten these up and repeat that on the other side. All right, guys. Now with our axle back up a little bit higher, we no longer have crazy tension on any of these lines. So go ahead and reconnect these brackets. And with your 12-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten them up. And don't forget to reattach these brackets here on the front side of our axle. I have my 12-millimeter socket in my hand. It's a little bit tight because of the lift. So you're gonna want that socket in your hand to get it started. And then go ahead and do that on the other side as well.All right, guys. Now we've completed our installation. Make sure you're following all the torque specifications, both from Toyota and from Supreme Suspensions. There are several torque specifications included in the instructions here. So make sure you're following all of that. And, of course, anytime you do suspension or steering work, get an alignment within a couple of 100 miles after completing the job. All right, so that wraps up this review and install of the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit for all 2007 and later Toyota Tundras. And, of course, for all things Tundra, keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Front and Rear Lift System
      • Provides 3-Inch Front and 2-Inch Rear Lift Heights
      • Enhances Ground Clearance With Improved Handling and Stability
      • Billet Aluminum Front Strut Spacers and Differential Drop Spacers
      • Solid, T6 Aircraft Billet Aluminum Rear Lift Blocks and Zinc-Plated U-Bolts
      • Hard Anodized Coating
      • Accommodates up to 33-Inch Tires
      • Bolt-On Installation
      • Backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits 2007-2021 4WD Toyota Tundra Models


      Enhanced Off-Road Capabilities. Let your Tundra conquer the great outdoors with the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front and 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit. This lift system includes well-engineered components to ensure more stability and control on your rough off-road adventures. It comes with heavy-duty rear lift blocks, U-bolt lift kit, front strut spacers, and differential drop spacers.

      Premium Components. Included in this suspension upgrade are a set of billet aluminum rear blocks, U-bolts, and spacers. The solid aluminum blocks are stronger, offer a longer service life than cast blocks, and are less susceptible to potential damages. In addition, the zinc-plated U-bolts ensure maximum clamp force with an even distribution of pressure, eliminate flexing, and provide the strength to keep original vehicle handling. Moreover, the differential drops maintain proper axle angle for safety and stability.

      Installation With Mechanical Expertise. The components of this Pro Billet Lift Kit directly attach to your vehicle’s factory mounting locations. It includes all the necessary hardware for a hassle-free installation process that requires mechanical expertise. Please note that an alignment is highly recommended after altering the height of your vehicle.

      Lifetime Warranty. This Pro Billet Lift Kit comes with a limited lifetime warranty that covers manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship under normal use. Some exclusions apply; please check the full warranty policy for complete details.

      Application. Supreme Suspensions specifically designed the 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit to be used on all 2007-2021 4WD Toyota Tundra models.



      Supreme Suspensions TYTU07FK3020

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Rear Lift Blocks
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • (2) Front Strut Spacers
      • (2) Differential Drop Spacers
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (13)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Tundra

        • 4.0L V6 - 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 4.6L V8 - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19
        • 4.7L V8 - 07, 08, 09
        • 5.7L V8 - 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21