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It's Joe from ExtremeTerrain. In this video, we're going over the Rough Country 3-inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks, fitting all '07 and newer four-wheel drive Tundras. Now, this is gonna be a great option for you if you're looking to take a spacer lift kit to the next level with something that's going to include upper control arms, rear shocks, differential drops, and obviously the spacer kit itself, all at a relatively budget-friendly price tag.So what do we have going on with this kit? First things first, let's talk what's gonna be making our lift here, the spacer itself. This one, this is gonna be one of the front spacers right here. This is gonna give you 3.5 inches of lift in the front. This guy right here, this is going to give you 2.5 inches of lift in the back, and this is going to sit in between the axle tube and the leaf spring. Now you're probably asking yourself why the difference in height between front and rear? Well, the purpose for that is to fix what's called rake. Now, all tundras, and trucks in general, for that matter, they come out of the factory sitting a little bit lower in the front and a little bit higher in the rear. Now, what that's for, that's to counteract any heavy weight in the bed. If you're towing something, the truck would then sit level. If you're not doing either of those things too often, that's more of a looks thing, and the rake can be kind of ugly. So bringing the front up a little higher can level the truck, fix that stance, and improve the overall looks.On top of that, if you have any heavy duty off-road gear in the front, such as steel front bumpers with a winch in it maybe, going a little bit higher in the front can help counteract any sag from that added weight. Now, adding a lift to your truck, it's not gonna be all appearance benefits, albeit that is a big one by going with a spacer kit like this one. You're also gonna get some real off-road benefits with something like this. A big one is gonna be ground clearance. By lifting your truck, obviously, you're going to improve that all the way around. Approach angle, break-over angle, departure angle, those are all gonna be improved, and that's gonna help you out in any off-road situation. On top of that, something like this is going to allow you to run bigger wheels and tires. Now, out of the box, Rough Country says this kit will fit up to a 34-inch tire. Now, in our experience with our wheel, this is a plus 1 offset and a 33-inch tire. That did rub on that front mudguard. You can trim that or completely remove it and I'm sure that would help with that issue. Of course, 35-inch tire is gonna be the same thing, just exacerbated to the next level. However, the 32s from the factory, those are gonna clear at any turning point in all situations.Now, like I said earlier, this kit, it does come with some extra goodies that make it worth the couple of hundred bucks over the standard spacer lift kit. We're gonna touch on the upper control arms first. These are tubular, definitely an upgrade over the factory one. But the main draw here, it's gonna be that ball joint angle. These are at the right angle to accommodate that 3.5-inch front lift. That's going to allow a few things to happen. One, it's going to allow you for the most range of motion possible out of that ball joint. And two, it's going to prevent any premature wear on that ball joint, which is a nice touch. Under this cap here, it also has a Zerk fitting on there, which allows you to keep these greased continually, allowing that lifespan to be as the long possible. Huge upgrade over the factory stuff. Another thing you're getting in this kit is a front differential drop. And what these are intended to do is drop your differential in the front, just an inch and a quarter, reason being is that's gonna keep your CV joints all the right angles, preventing any premature wear. And it's a nice thing to have in a kit like this one. Last but certainly not least, right here in the middle, we have our new N3 shocks. Now, these are gonna be a little bit firmer than factory, but these are going to take a little bit more abuse than the factory stuff. Reason being, these are a nitrogen-charged shock. So there's a little bit of pressure in there. And what that's intended to do is to prevent any air bubbles from forming. We all know air compresses easier than hydraulic fluid, and air bubbles, otherwise known as cavitation, that's exactly what causes shock fade, and the nitrogen charge is there to dial that out. If you're going over some desert washboards or really bumpy terrain, that is a really good thing to have.Next up, let's talk a little bit about pricing. And this is where this kit really shines. We're only looking at about 600 bucks for all of the extras in here. Now if you were just looking to pick up a set of spacers without all the extra goodies, you can expect to pay 100, 200 bucks maybe. For the extra 400 bucks, 350 bucks, I think it is definitely well worth it to get everything that this kit includes, and it's going to extend the life of all those suspension components and upgrade a lot of them in the process. It even includes a limited lifetime warranty from Rough Country.So let's get to the meat and potatoes of this video. Let me show you how to get this installed on your Tundra. Now, this is a bolt-on kit, so there's no cutting, modifications, or drilling required to get this installed. However, it is gonna be a test of the toolbox, and we're touching a lot of suspension components on our good old Tundra here. I'm gonna give it a three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter for that. It should take you about six to eight hours if you come with the right tools. So without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done.Tools I used for this install will include impacts, drill and drill bits, some rust penetrant like PB B'laster is gonna help you a ton with this install, vise grip, needle nose, trim panel removal tool, wire brush, channel locks, adjustable wrench, pry bar, breaker bar, wrenches ranging from 12 millimeters all the way up to 22 millimeters, sockets ranging from 24 millimeters all the way down to 10 millimeters, a grease gun, U-joint, some extensions, ratchets, punch, Phillips head, flathead. Some safety glasses are a must. Last but not least, a hammer. Not pictured in this shot will be the floor jack and pole jack.So, a couple of things to go over here before we start our install. You wanna make sure you're protected first. Safety goggles, gloves, definitely both really, really helpful. Then you wanna get your truck in the air safely, get the wheels off, and we can get started on the suspension. First thing we're gonna need, the needle nose pliers. We're gonna work on that cotter pin on our tie rod. That's a tough one. It's pretty rusty. It's probably gonna break on us, but we're gonna get that out of the way first. There you go. There's a little trick for you. Just a little pin, vise grips to hold on to it, and a hammer. You should be able to pop that right out. Now you can take a 24-millimeter socket and remove that castle nut. And what we're gonna do, we're actually just gonna thread that back on, and I'm gonna do it upside down. Reason being because we're gonna have to beat this collar here with a hammer just to break that taper loose and I'm gonna end up tapping on the top of the stud, so I don't want the castle portion of the nut to be up here. I want the big flat side. And just to help us out, I'm also gonna turn the wheel that way, so we could swing in with the hammer. And you can see now that that's popped loose. You can go ahead and remove that nut and pop out our tie rod. All right, so now with that out of the way, we can go ahead and loosen up our brake line brackets. We're gonna start with this one on the knuckle. It's held in with this 12-millimeter bolt. And just for safekeeping, gonna go ahead and thread that back in a little bit.We're gonna do the same thing for this one up here. It's held in with a 10-millimeter bolt this time. Next thing we're gonna turn our attention to is the sway bar end link. This is held in with a 19-millimeter bolt. Now what you wanna do is loosen up the sway bar on the other side as well. And that will allow you to sort of pry this up a little bit and get that end link out of there. Next thing we're gonna do is our upper ball joint. Now, this is held in with a cotter pin, so that's gonna have to go first, obviously. Now we can take our U-joint. We're gonna put that on our 19-millimeter socket and loosen up this nut. Now just like we did with the tie rod, we're gonna thread that back on, just to protect those threads in there, because this ball joint's gonna have to get off as well. And also, that basically is gonna catch our upper control arm from popping up. You see how it snapped up there. Now what we could do is pry down on this pry bar and get that nut out of here, and separate these two safely. Up next, we have the four studs on the top of our strut assembly. They're each held on with a 14-millimeter nut. We're gonna use a combination of a good old ratcheting wrench here and the electric socket to get these out of the way. We're gonna swap over to the hand ratchet for these back two, just because it's so tight back there. Can't really get in there perfectly perpendicular with the ratcheting wrench.So before we loosen up the lower part of our strut assembly, we're gonna have to loosen up the lower control arm, just to allow this to swing down a little bit so we can get that out of there easier. Now in order to do that, you have to loosen up this bolt with a 24-millimeter socket. However, the skid plate's in the way, so this is gonna have to go next. We're gonna use a 12-millimeter socket and a Phillips head screwdriver to do that. Now at the end of the day, you are gonna be doing a diff drop with this kit, so we're gonna be removing this anyways. And there are three more bolts at the back. You're gonna need an extension to get to these. And make sure you hold the skid plate up for this last one.So now the skid plate's loose. All you have to do is shift it that way, and it will drop right down. Now we have a clear shot at the lower control arm bolts. We're just gonna loosen them up. And again, it's gonna take a 24-millimeter socket and a big old breaker bar. Now before you loosen either of these, make sure your lower control arm is supported. I went ahead and threw one under a little bit late, but make sure this lower control arm is supported, then we can loosen up this final bolt. And that's going to allow our control arm to swing down and out of the way as soon as we let off on the jack. On the opposite side of the lower control arm, you're gonna find this 22-millimeter nut. We're gonna loosen that up with the impact gun. Make sure you have a hand on your shock, just so it doesn't fall outward. Back on the other side, we can go ahead and get that bolt out. Then we can also pull out the strut assembly. So that's one portion uninstalled. This kit has upper control arms too, so this is gonna have to go. In order to get access to that, we gotta peel back this sort of foam padding right here. I'm gonna use a trim panel removal tool to pop these clips out. Just push that aside for now.And we're gonna do the same thing for a few of them on this side as well. So now we have access to our upper control arm. Over here, we have a 22-millimeter nut. However, there is a hard line in the way, but you use a small extension like that, you can slip the breaker bar behind that. You can get that on there to loosen it up. And I'm just using the adjustable on the other side to hold things still. And on this side, we take that big washer off as well as the 22-millimeter nut. And now, for the tricky part, working this foot-long bolt out of here. We're gonna have to basically go up all the way to the front of the truck to get that out. It's gonna be tough, but it is doable. Now, the next thing we're gonna have to remove is right here. These are our bump stops, this one and this one right here. You can see I've hit these with a nice healthy dose of rust penetrant. Frankly, these are huge, 2.25 inches. If you have the wrench for it, go ahead. I'm ashamed to say that I do not. So what I'm gonna use are the channel locks. It's gonna take a while, but we need to remove both of these. So now, at this point, we have one side done. I would recommend getting the other side completely caught up. I already did that off-camera, and it's gonna make what we're gonna do next a little bit easier. I'll tell you exactly what that is in just a second. But now, with all the stock stuff removed, this is a great opportunity for us to lay everything out, highlight some components that are gonna be changing on our suspension, and some direct replacements as well, and see what the improvements are, and what is gonna be different.First things first, let's talk about our strut assembly. Now this Bilstein right here, this is really high-quality stuff. No reason to substitute this out. All we're going to be doing is installing this spacer plate on those top studs right there. But before we do that, we do have to press in some new studs. We'll show you how that's done in just a second. That's where our front lift is gonna be coming from. Now, another nice component of this kit, it's gonna be right over here, our brand new tubular upper control arms. Just like the factory stuff, they're powder coat black, however, they do have a little bit more texture. They are tubular instead of stamped steel, so that should be a little bit stronger as well. They have those really high-quality Clevite bushings in there, which is definitely an upgrade over the factory stuff too.Other than that, we do have that ball joint at the optimum angle for the 3.5-inch front lift, which again, that's gonna give you more range of motion, and it's not going to wear as premature as this factory ball joint would. It also has a Zerk fitting on that ball joint, which this factory one does not, and it is removable. So, if you do have that ball joint go eventually, you could pop it out and press in another one. In the factory case, you're gonna have to completely replace this upper control arm because that is not serviceable. So, in my opinion, an upgrade all around with that new upper control arm.Now I do have some other stuff here on the table that we're gonna have to install before we go and install our strut assembly and brand new upper control arm. You can see, first things first, these are gonna be our bump stop extensions. And all these are gonna do is they're gonna thread onto the factory bump stop, make them a little bit longer. These are going to thread right into that factory hole. We'll show you how that's done in just a second. These are going to be drop brackets for our sway bar. These are gonna be really simple. We're gonna do these in just a second as well. And these right here, these are gonna be our differential drop. These are gonna keep all of our CV angles at the right spot. And just like the rest of the stuff, it's going to help cut down on any premature wear.So, that's pretty much gonna do it as far as what's changing up at the front. Again, at this point, I'd recommend getting the other side caught up. We already did that. We're gonna take our bump stops. We're gonna do those first, then we're gonna crawl underneath, take care of our diff, and then the sway bar, and then we'll continue on with the install. So, again, for our bump stop, we're just gonna thread on the spacer like so. And that's gonna go right into the factory spot. And just like how we loosened it, I'm gonna snug it up with the channel locks and do the same thing on the other side. Next thing we're gonna work on is getting our differential unbolted from this cross member here. You can see I have this supported with two pole jacks, just to make sure it's not going anywhere. It's held in with two 19-millimeter bolts. Both of those are gonna have to go. Now there is a nut on top. It's in a little bit of a tough spot, but you can get in there with a regular old 19-millimeter wrench and just use the threads to work the stud down. Now what you wanna do is transfer over that big washer to our new bolt.We can put that aside for now. Now we're gonna come down with our pole jacks, nice and slow, to make room for our spacer. So once you bring your differential down enough to make room, you can put the spacers in, then you can come back up, line the bolt holes up, push the differential around with the pry bar if you need to. And if you really need to, you could loosen up some of the mounts back here. Once you have it lined up, go ahead and throw your 22-millimeter bolt through. And on the other side, you're going to install a 22-millimeter nut. Next thing we're going to install is our front sway bar drop brackets. We gotta get this out of the way first. It's held in with four 17-millimeter bolts. So with that removed, come in with a little bracket and only at the front here, we're gonna throw in the new longer 19-millimeter hardware. Same thing goes on the other side.Now that we have everything started, we can go ahead and tighten down with a 19-millimeter socket. Now, we're gonna wait on our skid plate because, again, we have to re-tighten down the lower control arm. So we're gonna turn our attention next to the upper control arm and that is gonna go right about there. You see I already have that big giant bolt kind of started back here. Just gonna try to pull that back through and we're gonna work that all the way back that way so we can get this tightened down. And then on the other side, we're gonna reinstall that washer and our factory 22-millimeter nut. Now that we have the upper control arm taken care of, we can go ahead and reinstall this basically fender liner trim, and this one over here, too.So the next thing we're gonna work on is our actual spacer. Now, it's just gonna be plain out of the box like this. We're gonna need to press in those studs like that. Now, there are a couple things to note here because you wanna get this right before you press these in. We're gonna take the caliper and show you, but these need to be a little bit smaller, because one side of the spacer is a little bit smaller. That's exactly, we'll do millimeters, 9.43. This side's 9.9. So this is the side we're gonna work with. Also, this thing is powder-coated, which means that even though I have this the opposite, it's not gonna go in. So what we're gonna do is break out the drill here and get some of that powder coating out of there just so we could fit the threads through, and that this stud will then bite once we press it in. The drill bit I'm using is 25/64. You do not wanna go too wide with that hole, otherwise, these are not gonna press in, so be careful, go gently, don't use too big of a drill bit. Again, this is 25/64. Just enough to take out the powder coat. And now, we should see just enough for the threads to come through and enough for us to press it in. So here's how they want you to do this. They give you these two nuts in the bag with the studs. You're supposed to put the big one on first, and that is just supposed to be free on there. And this one is gonna mate up with the threads. And that bigger nut is only on there just so it can clear the spline from the press. And then you can take a 17-millimeter socket and tighten that down. And then once you're done, you can remove both of those nuts, and that is one stud pressed in. Another way to do it, and the way that I'm gonna do it, is what I'm gonna show you next, just using the hammer.So I am gonna throw one in. I'm gonna use their trick just to get it started. This just gets it nice and centered up, no started. And then, it's gonna take a punch. Put that on our stud, give it a couple whacks. Maybe I'm wrong. Whichever way you wanna do it. Obviously, they both work. We're gonna finish up these two, and then we can bring over our strut and bolt this down. Just like that, our studs are installed. So now, you can grab our strut and we're just gonna put the spacer on top. There's only one way this can really be installed. Just give it a 90-degree rotation until you find it. But this does have a flat edge to it. You wanna make sure this is toward the inside of the truck. And you'll see once we bring it back there. So that's the correct orientation. We're gonna use the factory 14-millimeter nuts to tighten down these studs. Sometimes, you gotta go old school. And in that case, crescent wrench will do ya. Just a little bit tougher on the old muscles. A little bit too tight in there. Back over by the truck, grab the strut assembly. Again, you want that flat side toward the back. If you did this right, it should line up on the first go, like that. Then we're gonna grab our 15-millimeter nuts. We're just gonna put a few on there to hold this thing still. We're gonna keep these finger tight for now. Reason being, we wanna little bit of shift in this that's gonna help us get the bottom seated. And then once they're both in, we'll tighten things down.Now, you can see what we did there. I just worked the bottom in with the pry bar. This actually sits pretty much perfect right out of the gate. And I spoke way too soon. Little tiny bit. Now we can run through that factory bolt and put the factory nut on the other side. Now we can grab our electric ratchet, 15-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna get these as far as I can. Probably gonna give them a final torque with the ratcheting wrench. And these usually don't get too much, usually about 30 foot-pounds, 40 foot-pounds. Now, we can jump back down to the lower and tighten this down. It's gonna be a 22-millimeter on both sides.Next thing we're gonna work on is our upper ball joint right here. You can see I brought the truck down. I have the rear tires touching the ground. That makes things just a little bit safer when you do this. I'm gonna take the floor jack and press that lower control arm up as far as it'll go, just to give us a fighting chance. Wanna do this nice and slow, let that shock take the brunt and expand before you give it another crank with the jack. And as soon as you see this go off the lift pad, jack stands, as soon as it starts to get loose, stop right there and use the pry bar on the upper control arm to get the rest. So, now, we're just gonna take our pry bars and we're gonna start to walk these down. Rag's in there just to prevent any scratches. Now what we're gonna do, bring that pry down, get some threads through. Now, we have a new castle nut and washer for that one. And you can take the rag out, take the pry bar out, and we can tighten this down with a 22-millimeter socket.And just to make sure this stays nice and secure, kit does give you a brand new cotter pin. So we're not exactly done with this. The ball joint under this cap does need to be greased. And if you take a small flathead, you can pry that bad boy open. In there, you'll find the Zerk fitting. We're gonna use our grease gun to make sure that is nice and lubricated. As I fill this up, you're gonna start to see this rubber boot swell up. Now, I'm not seeing any grease come out at this point, but I am seeing this rubber deflect a lot, so it's definitely full. So what we're gonna do is pry this off, pop that cover back on, and I'll call this good to do.Now that we have everything bolted up and our upper control arm is connected to the knuckle, one thing you definitely don't want to forget here, the lower control arm bolts. We loosened these up a while ago. They gotta be torqued back down. And we're gonna do that with a 24-millimeter socket. Now, we can finish up with our basic suspension components. We're gonna do the tie rod next. And that is gonna go back into its collar. Then it's gonna get its original 24-millimeter castle nut. And then, obviously, if you remember, we destroyed the cotter pin earlier. So I'm gonna give it a brand new one. Next thing we're gonna take care of is our sway bar. You might need to loosen that up at the mounting brackets just to get that in place. But you can see I already have the bolt started here. Our end link lines up with the holes. We're just gonna run that in with a 19-millimeter socket.Now, before you go anywhere, do the same thing over on the other side. And if you loosened up those mounting brackets back there, tighten those down too. Next thing we're gonna do is just reattach our brake line brackets. You do get a brand new nut for this one, 7/16th inches. It's gonna thread on there just like so, and tighten down now. Now this one, we're just gonna unthread that bolt again, and this is a 12-mil by the way. Go ahead and line up our bracket and reinstall.Now to wrap up the front, we gotta reinstall our skid plate. Now, since our differential is lower, this is gonna have to be lower at the rear as well. They have a clever solution to that with the spacer washers right here. All we're gonna do, take the new hardware that comes in the kit, throw on that spacer washer. And on top of it, we're gonna install this lock washer. That's gonna hold our hardware in place while we line up the skid plate. And we're gonna do that for all three rear positions. So we're gonna put up our skid plate. Want that over top of those plastic teeth there. And you wanna slide it to the right a little bit just to get those old hooks seated. Then we can grab our 13-millimeter socket on the extension to get our new hardware started. Up at the front, we're gonna use the same factory 12-mils. And lastly, the three Phillips head screws.So that's the front taken care of. A lot of steps up there, but really not too bad. Make sure everything's tightened down. You can put the front tires back on and that is pretty much a wrap. Moving right along to the rear, things are gonna get a lot easier back here, thankfully. First thing we're gonna do, we gotta get rid of this good old Bilstein right here. We're gonna pull back this boot and that's going to allow us to get a wrench on there, and then we could remove the 17-millimeter nut.So, what I did here, you can see I have a 19-millimeter wrench kind of holding itself on to the piston rod here. Now I'm gonna take the 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench and I'm just gonna break off that nut on the top. So, just a word to the wise here, these threads, as you can see, they're a little bit worse for wear. That dirt gets caught when you're unscrewing the nut. Hit this with a wire brush, rust penetrant. We use PB B'laster. That's gonna cut down on your hassles, because that can be tough to get off. While we're up here, go ahead and get rid of that bushing as well.Next thing we're gonna take care of is our bottom shock mount. This is gonna be a 17-millimeter on both sides. Now, grab onto the thing, because it will fall, because we removed the top already. Go ahead and get that bolt out of there, and you can drop out the shock. Next thing we're gonna remove is our U-bolts. They're held on with four 19-millimeter nuts, then we're gonna get this plate out here and take the bolts out as well. Now, before we actually get too far here, one thing I do wanna make a quick note of, as you guys can probably see in the corner of the frame here, you wanna make sure your axle tube is supported, because that is basically the only thing holding this up at this point. We have pole jacks on either side. Then you could remove this bottom plate here and take out the U-bolts.So with the U-bolts removed, we have our axle tube resting on our pole jacks here. I went ahead and threw another one under our pinion, just to make sure all the angles line up just like factory. Now, what you wanna do is get the other side caught up, so you wanna get the shock removed and both the U-bolts removed over there. And then we can move on to our next step, which is handling all these brake line brackets.These are pretty simple. Basically, we're gonna pop off some brake line brackets using a 12-millimeter socket and install these using the 13-millimeter hardware included in the kit. The first one we're gonna start with is right here right behind the brake rotor. We could reuse that factory 12 to start our relocation bracket, and then go ahead and flip that bad boy back around. You can see it's kind of a stretch up actually, but it's gonna be better off once this is under some weight. Now we're just gonna tighten it down. Gonna hit the bottom with that 12 again. Then we could swap over to the 13 on top, and repeat that on the other side. Now we're gonna move back to the opposite side of the axle. You can see there are four places here basically where the brake lines are hard mounted to this axle tube, and basically the diff as well. One right there and one right there, one on the right here, and another one right there. All 12-mil, we're gonna remove them all in one shot and install the brackets in the same exact way.So, now that we have our drop brackets installed for both the e-brake cable and our brake lines, we have everything removed from the factory. We can go ahead and lay this all out. Now's the perfect time to put our stock components next to our new Rough Country components and highlight some of the differences here. Now, first things first, let's talk about the big one. Let's talk about the N3 shock versus our classic blue and yellow Bilstein. First things first, let's start with a similarity. Now, if I take the wire cutters here and I cut this band, you're gonna see that this is going to extend by itself. Now, that is because both of these shocks, they're gonna be nitrogen charged. Again, what that means, the nitrogen gas in here is gonna keep the oil under pressure. It's gonna prevent any foaming. And again, we all know air compresses easier than hydraulic fluid, so that is exactly what you want if you plan on leaning on this shock to take you over some heavy-duty off-roading or basically the washboards. Nitrogen charge, it's a good thing, and the Bilstein is the same exact way. Now, as far as differences go, it is gonna be a little bit more durable. The body is gonna be a little bit bigger. The shaft is also gonna be a little bit bigger. The body, 50 millimeter over here for the Bilstein, 54 over here for the Rough Country. In theory, there's also a little bit more fluid in there, so cooling should be a little bit more effective as well. Durability from the extra diameter, that should also help. Same thing goes up here on the shaft. Factory Bilstein, 14-millimeter shaft. This one over here, the Rough Country, is gonna be an 18-millimeter shaft, so that should help you out with durability as well.Another big difference between these two. With the Rough Country, you get some extra height. That's to accommodate our new lift in the rear. And that's basically gonna help you out and keep the most suspension travel possible. So, that is also a good thing to have a shock that's designed around a lift block. Speaking about our lift block, here it is. We don't have a factory one to compare this to, but here it is. This is gonna sit in between our axle tube and leaf spring. We'll show you how that gets installed in just a second here. Now to accommodate for that, we do also get some new U-bolts, and you can see they're just a little bit longer, just like the shock. That's to accommodate for the extra lift. So, let's get this wrapped up. We're gonna need both of our lift blocks. We're gonna mess around with our pole jacks, get our axle tube lined up in the lift block, get this lined up in the leaf spring, and then we could tighten it down with the U-bolts, and install our N3 shock.Now, as you're putting these in, it is gonna be very slightly tapered. You want the thinner side to be toward the front of the truck. That way it preserves the pinion angle. Once you have everything lined up, you can go ahead and slide around your new U-bolts. And then we're gonna reinstall that bottom plate with our new nuts underneath. Now, we can tighten these down with a 22-millimeter socket. One thing to note, when you tighten these, you wanna make sure you do this evenly, and in a cross pattern, kind of like tightening down a tire.Next thing we're gonna do is install our N3 shock. It's gonna go up through there like that, and you can see we have one washer and a bushing on the bottom. Then we have this washer with a lip up top, and then this bushing with a lip up top, then the last washer at the very top like that. Now we're gonna need to compress this a little bit to get the nut started on the threads. Now that we have that started, you can go ahead and grab our 18-millimeter wrench and give that a couple turns. Now, from the bottom, you can see we're a little bit off, so what we're gonna have to do is push up on the shock, and we're gonna get the bolt started from this side, just like it was when we removed it. Now once you get that bolt through, you can go ahead and tighten that down with the factory stuff, 17 millimeters on both sides.To wrap things up, we're gonna repeat that process with the shock over on the other side. And again, we're tightening this down with an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. And push up, get the bottom in. And then we're gonna go ahead and again secure this factory stuff, 17 millimeters on both sides.That's gonna do it for the install, guys. Just a couple of closing thoughts here. You wanna make sure everything is torqued to factory specs. Then you can put the wheels back on and drive right to the alignment shop. But that's gonna do it for my review and install of the Rough Country 3-inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 shocks, fitting all '07 and newer four-wheel drive Tundras. As always, guys, thank you for watching. Make sure you keep it right here at ExtremeTerrain, for all things Tundra.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Lifted Stance. Give your 2007-2021 Toyota Tundra a commanding, off-road stance by upgrading to a Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit that includes Premium N3 Shocks. With 3.5 inches of lift, this kit can accommodate tires up to 34-inches in size mounted on 22-inch wheels allowing you to conquer any trail. This Rough Country Lift Kit features tubular upper control arms, as well as lift blocks and strut spacers. What’s more, the included Premium N3 Rear Shocks provide a highly comfortable ride, even across the roughest terrain.
Premium N3 Shocks. Rough Country’s Premium N3 Shocks are high-pressure, nitrogen-charged shock absorbers that are built with a chromed hardened piston rod and high-quality shock body. They also boast a 10-stage variable valving, which allows them to adjust accordingly to the terrain you’re on. As a result, they offer a more reliable road damping performance that’ll last you a good long time.
Upper Control Arms. This Rough Country Lift Kit includes a set of tubular Upper Control Arms equipped with heavy duty ball-joints and Clevite rubber bushings for improved directional stability and better handling. These Upper Control Arms are designed to promote a factory-like geometry by keeping the ball joint at optimum angles after lifting.
Lift Blocks and Spacers. Lift is obtained with the use of strut spacers and rear lift blocks. These strut spacers and lift blocks are fabricated from steel plate for superior strength. To ensure long-lasting corrosion resistance these spacers and blocks are powder coated in a durable black finish.
No Welding Required. Rough Country engineered their Lift Kit to be installed with no welding needed, making it a bolt-on kit. However, it should be noted that professional installation is recommended. With all the necessary hardware included, this Lift kit can be installed in about 4 hours time.
Lifetime Replacement Warranty. A lifetime replacement warranty is included with every purchase of this suspension lift kit with shock set. Please visit Rough Country’s website for more information on the warranty’s terms, conditions, and exclusions.
Application. This Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks is designed to fit 2007-2021 Toyota Tundra models, excluding TRD Pro.
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
Rough Country 76830
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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