(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Merideth: If you're looking for a side step that will stand out from the rest for your 2018 and newer four-door JL, these Redrock Aluminum Side Step Bars with the LED running lights, sequential signals and step lights will be a set that you definitely need to check out. Now, these will offer a running board design that will offer a big step up into the Jeep, which is especially useful if you've lifted your Wrangler and will have a nice ribbed surface here for some additional traction. Now also offer a bit of protection if you're taking your JL out on the trail with an aluminum construction and the black powder coat on top, which will give it the rugged appearance.Now, what's really notable about these though, is the lighting that's integrated into the step that you don't usually see. Now, not only will these offer ambient lighting so you know where to put your foot down at night, but these will also blink in a sequential pattern whenever your turn signal is actuated. Now that will consist of a small LED strip lining the running board being non-noticeable of course, until the sun goes down. Now those features will 100 percent make you stand out from every other rig on the road and make you a lot more noticeable at making sure that no one can miss you at night.Now, these will be a direct bolt-on, making sure that the install is pretty easy, but it will require some wiring when it comes to the lighting setup, but we are going to show you how to do that in just a minute. Now with all of that being said, this will be more of a premium choice because of all those added features at roughly $1,200 for the set. Now what I will say is that you're definitely not seeing this kind of lighting when it comes to other steps on the page.Now other powered options, four steps will usually fold down for better accessibility and may have lighting integrated into that option rather than this choice being stationary. Not to mention, the running board style step will offer a lot of space for the front and the rear passengers and offer a stealthy look at the same time, making this an all-around great pick.Now, getting into the install, this will be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking your roughly two hours to get the job done with some pretty basic hand tools. Again, I will keep in mind this does come with a wiring harness that is pretty lengthy, but it does require a little bit of wiring. So you will have the right length, but you will have to do a little bit of extra work for those lights. Now that's going to wrap it up for my review. Let's go ahead and go to the shop so we can show you a detailed breakdown of how to get these onto your JL right now.Installer: The tools you're going to need for this installation include an impact gun, a ratchet, electric, or regular, 10-mm and 13-mm sockets, a 10-mm wrench, diagonal cutters, needle-nose pliers, wire strippers/crimping tool, a trim removal tool, a razor blade, zip ties, and the vampire clips that come included with the kit. What's up, guys? Today we have a set of side steps that we're going to install on a Wrangler JL, and I'm going to show you how to do it step by step. So let's get started installing some of the brackets. We're ready to start the install. And before we get started, I just want to mention that we have the Jeep up on the lift just to give you guys a better view of what's going on. Now this job can be done at home on the ground, so not to worry if you don't have a lift at your house, but we're going to get started with the brackets right here.And as you can see that the front one is labeled, and this has an L on it for left, meaning driver's side and the other one has a label on it as well saying R for right or passenger side. And you'll know those are the front brackets. So that one is going to go here and then our other two are going to go here in the center and then there at the very back. When mounting these brackets, we want to put these arms here and holes behind the pinch weld here, and we're going to put two of the supplied bolts through with each of 'em with a locking washer and flat washer. And then on the back side we're going to put another flat washer and then the nut.All right. We're just making these hand tight for now so that we can adjust these as needed. And next we're going to do the 13-mm bolt through the bottom here that goes into the body of the Jeep. All right, looking from the bottom here of our Jeep, this is the threaded hole that I was speaking of earlier and that's in the body. So this is how you line up the brackets. And these are the bolts that we just installed, and we're looking at the nuts on those now. So, hand tighten those, like I said, once you have that all lined up, you can go ahead and put in your 13-mm bolt by hand through the threads.All right. And the center and rear bracket are going to be mounted the same exact way. Still looking from underneath our Jeep, these are what our thread holes in the body look like. So the front one looks very similar to this, as will the rear one. So another thing to mention about our brackets here is they are of different length. So just make sure that when you put your bracket up, you know, this part, the bar here on the bracket goes behind the pinch weld, those two holes in the pinch weld line up, as well this hole will line up with that thread hole. So just be aware of that. And then we can go ahead and put in our two 10-mm bolts and nuts. And as I said before, on the bolt make sure you have a locking washer and then a flat washer, then you can put it through the pinch weld and the bracket. And then on the back side we're going to do another flat washer and the nut. And now, for our 13-mm bolt. And again, make sure that you have a locking washer and a flat washer on it and then thread it into place.All right. Now, for the rear bracket, we're going to do the same thing. And now we can prep our side steps to go up onto our brackets. We have our side step up on the table here just so I can show you the layout of it. So to position these, you want to make sure that the wiring harness here is at the front and that's how you'll line up your running boards. Now if I flip it over, you'll notice that we have a bunch of nuts and bolts here on these runners. So what we're going to do is, we're actually going to just prep these to go onto our brackets. So we're just going to position four each, four of these each bracket.So I'm going to line 'em up generally where they're going to go. So I'll put four at the end, four at the center and four in the front, and then I'll separate 'em enough so that I can put it up on the brackets without them hitting. That way we can slide 'em into place and you'll see better when we get it up on the Jeep. So the center bracket is a little closer to the front bracket than it is the rear, so just make sure you kind of position it like that, or these bolts like that as well. And then these four here will go to our front bracket. Now, when we position it up on the brackets, we should just easily be able to slide these into place.All right. So now that all of our bolts are in the proper position in the general area of our brackets, just make sure that when we lift this to place it on the brackets that we kind of keep it level so that the bolts don't move around and shift on us. Now, these side steps are relatively light, but that's not to say that having a friend might make this a little easier, but as you can see I'm able to put 'em up on the brackets by myself so I don't think it'll be a problem for you either. So once you have 'em up on the brackets here, notice that it'll kind of stay in place so that you're able to position your bolts into the brackets like so. All right, so I'll show you how these slide into position here at our back bracket. So you just want to slide 'em down the runner and make sure that your washer is on the front side or over top of a bracket and not underneath of it. So just like that.Once we have 'em all in position, we can tighten them down. I still have to do the center ones yet and then we can line it up, make sure it's centered on our vehicle and tighten these 13-mm bolts down.Now, for our center and front brackets. Right now, we're just going to take a step back and make sure it's centered properly. Right. So we're just making sure that it's nice and centered, making sure that all our bolts are still in place. But once it's where it's at, where you like it aesthetically, we go ahead and tighten down all our hardware. So we're going to grab our 13-mm sockets, 10-mm sockets, and a 10-mm wrench as well. I'm going to start here at the 13-mm locking nuts on our side steps just so that the side steps don't move around too much as we're tightening everything else. Then I'll move on to the 13-mm bolt in our bracket. Finally, I'll switch over to my 10-mm socket and wrench and tighten down the other two nuts and bolts. Also a good idea to put some pressure up on the side step just to keep it high and tight.Now, we'll move on to the center and front brackets. Now that our side steps are installed, we can begin with the wiring process. And to do that, we're going to have to reach the fender turn signal harness. So, to do that, as you can see, our fender liner is already removed, but for you at home it might be easier to remove the entire fender because the fender liner comes off with it. So to do that, I'll just point out the process and the tools that you're going to need. First of all, there's going to be four 10-mm bolts that are going to have to come out in this general location about one, two, three and four there. Once those are out, then you're going to have to get your trim removal tool. There's three push clips that you're going to need to remove, and two of 'em are in the back of the fender, and then there's one more right around here.Once you get those removed, then take either a set of pliers or your trim removal tool and pry in behind or underneath. At the back of the fender there's white push clips that hold this onto the body, so you're just going to pry or pinch with your pliers and pull at the same time to remove those clips. And then this will pull right off along with the fender liner. Then you'll have access to the turn signal harness like we do now.All right. With your fender or fender liner removed, you now have access to the plug right here. This is our turn signal harness that we are going to be tapping into. So the first thing we're going to do is just disconnect the plug from the harness. To do that, we're going to pull down the safety clip here and then we can simply push in on the tab here and pull. And now it might be easier to push in first two, I've noticed with a lot of these connectors they're pretty tight. So if you push up a little bit and then pull down, it'll come out pretty easily.All right, so let's cut back, a little bit of this tape here so we can expose more of these wires. So if you have a razor blade or a pair of scissors, just be very careful not to cut into the wires themselves. And be very careful not to cut yourself. All right, now let's pull our sidestep wires into place so we can... so I can point out which wire connects to which wire of the harness.All right. And also I do want to note before you start splicing, there is plenty of wire in this loom here coming from the side steps. So you can cut it down to size, just make sure you test fit everything first. And also whatever you do, do not cut the white wire yet as this one will be going into our cabin. As for the rest of the wires, we are going to be putting the brown wire to the white-brown wire. So this guy here will be connecting to this one here, brown, white-brown. And then the, as I called out, the white wire is going into the cabin, the yellow wire is going to go to white and green. So this one will be spliced into that guy like so. The black will go to black, that's our ground. And the red is constant. So that's going to go to our last wire, which is the white and orange there. All right. And the kit does come with the scotch clip connectors. So that's how we're going to be splicing these together and I'll show you how that's done next.All right. So for the scotch clips here, what you do is feed whichever wire you're splicing together. Feed that one through the connector first, so there's an open end as you can see, and slide it into place. Then take the appropriate wire that's getting spliced to it, put that in the other hole because as you can see here, let me show you, there's kind of like two spaces for each of the wires. So you can take the other wire and you can actually feed it up through either end, like so. Just make sure that you don't expose the bare wire, kind of keep that in place once they're both in there together. Going to close this over and clip it down with our pliers. Also, when you're doing this, just make sure that you're kind of spacing out the scotch clips. So if you do one here, do one a little higher. That'll just make it easier to tape everything up, and keep it nice and tidy.All right. And we're going to do the other three wires exactly the same way. All right, once you have everything wired into your turn signal harness here, wrap up the rest of the loom, the excess wire. But make sure that you pull out enough of the white wire, as this has to go into the cabin. So a good two feet will do, and I'll show you where that's going to get routed here in a moment. But first, just go ahead and zip tie this in place. So from the front of your side step, make sure that the wire comes up into the fender well, and then behind this pinch weld here. And we're going to zip tie to this wiring harness here or any other place you deem suitable. And just make sure that this is tucked away nice and safe behind the fender liner.All right. Let's go ahead and plug in our connector to our harness. Only goes in one way, make sure you got it going the right way, it'll connect nice and easy. All right, make sure everything's nice and tucked away. And at this point I'll show you where this is going to get routed. So what we're going to do is actually remove this plug right here, which is a 10-mm nut, and it has a hole through the firewall that gives us access to the cabin. All right, grab your 10-mm socket and we're going to remove this nut right here or this bolt right here. And then we're going to feed our white wire through.All right. Once you have the white wire fed through the firewall and you have everything connected, just make sure this is all good to go. And then at that point you can go ahead and put your fender and fender liner back in place. All right, so at this point we're crawling in the driver's side cabin down by the floor here. As you can see, our wire came through the firewall and we're going to splice this to the floorboard light right here. So on our harness here, we have a yellow and brown wire, which is the positive and the black is negative. Yours might be different, but once you identify your positive, that's where we're going to splice our white wire into. Now, I can mention, black is 99 percent of the time is negative. So if you have a black wire, most likely the other wire will be your positive wire.So once you identify that wire, what we're going to do is route this in front of the pedals so that we're not pressing the pedal pedals against the wire. Find a couple places to zip tie it. And just like the other wires, we're going to use, one of the scotch lock connectors and our needle nose pliers to splice our white wire to the positive wire. All right, so let's disconnect the harness from the light. There's a little push tab on top, so just push that down firmly and then pull the connector to the side to unplug it. Now we have a little better, little better view here. So again, on my harness here, our wire is actually yellow and purple, I believe. Yellow with a stripe. So that's where we're going to splice our white wire into. So if you need to, you go ahead and strip back some of this loom or tape right here using your razor. Again, just be careful not to cut into the wires or yourself.All right. Once you have that connected, go ahead and wrap up the excess wire and zip tie it in place. All right, so we're kind of in a cramp spot here. So I got a zip tie around the OBD2 port wiring and I got everything tightened up. So I'm just pulling that tight right now. Let's go ahead and trim off the end of our zip tie, and then we can reconnect our harness. That's the install process for the driver's side steps.Now, for the passenger side, you're going to repeat the same exact steps. But I'm going to show you where the grommet is that you have to remove in order to feed the white wire through to wire up to the floorboard light on this side. All right, so as I said, on the passenger side, the steps are exactly the same. So once you get your fender off on the passenger side, the wiring is going to be the same. The harness is up here for the turn signal. And back here for the white wire, if you'd look right here, I know it could be tough to see, but it's the exact same plug that you're going to remove with your 10-mm socket to feed your white wire through. And then once you get it into the cabin, there is a floorboard light on that side as well. All right, we're ready to start wiring up our sidestep harness to our turn signal harness here. So let's get these wires up here so I can show you where they go.All right. So we have our yellow wire here coming from our side set that's going to go into our white with green stripe. That's for the turn signals. Our brown is going to go into the white with brown stripe here. That is for the parking lights. Then black is ground, so black to black, the white with orange stripe is going to stay untouched. And for the other two wires that come out of our side step harness here. I've pulled 'em out of the loom, which you'll probably want to do too, just pull a couple feet out. We're going to take red directly to the battery cause we need a constant source of power for that. White, we're going to send through the side wall and that's going to be hooked up to our interior lights so that when we open the door, the lights underneath our side steps come on.All right. And to connect these three wires here to our turn signal harness, we're going to be using the vampire clips that come with the kit and a pair of needle nose pliers. All right. The vampire clips from our kit have an open end, so that's the side we're going to slide over the wire and slide the wire into position. And I'll flip here in a second. Once the wire's in, you'll notice that there's two spots. So one spot for each wire. So slide our harness wire all the way down, and we're going to take the corresponding, which in this case is the black wire. And we're going to put it in through the other hole that's there, and make sure that you don't have any exposed wire coming out the top. So I like to just keep my finger there, kind of keep it in place.All right, once they're both in position, going to take the little clip here and close it, and which also pinches that metal spade down on both wires to connect them together. So you can push it down by hand, but it's also a good idea to just give it an extra squeeze with your needle nose pliers, make sure it's fully seated. All right. And we're going to do the other two wires the same exact way.All right. With those three wires connected, I'll now show you where and how we're going to route our white wire into the cabin. All right, looking in through the fender, the back of the fender here. And if you take a look at the brake booster right here, right down from that is the plug that we're going to be removing and that's where we're going to feed our white wire through. To remove this plug here, we're going to use our 10-mm socket. All right. And with that open, that leads right into our cabin. So we can feed our white wire through that hole and pick it up on the other side.All right. Once you reach the end of where you pulled it out of the loom, let's just pick up the rest of it and kind of roll it up and tie it in place for now so that we can run our red wire to the battery. This is a good idea to zip tie here to this harness. And if you cut your wire to length, you should be good. You shouldn't have all this extra, but if you didn't and just left it whole like we have, just do this and then once we put our fender and fender liner back on, it'll be nice and kept safe and tidy back here.All right. Lastly, we have to connect our red wire to the battery. So to do that, we're going to run this up under our fender well here into the engine bay and pull the rest of the wire through the engine bay across the battery. So first, let's plug up our harness here, plug this back in.So it only goes one way, so no need to force it, it should go in nice and easy to push the safety tab back in. Now we're going to run this through, like I said, through the fender well here up into the engine bay and that'll be the last step for the wiring. All right, so we're pulling the rest of our red wire up through the engine bay here. And I did make sure that I was behind everything here, so I'm that I'm right next to the brake booster. And then I'm just going to go right across this pinch weld up here.And we're just going to wing it over to the other side so I can reach my battery. All right, once we know that we have enough wire after we're all connected, we'll come back and just find a couple good spots to zip tie along here to keep this wire in place. All right, now we're on the other side of the engine bay here and we do have these plastic brackets that we can kind of nice to put the wire through, so why not keep it nice and tidy? Now what we're going to be doing is connecting to the positive terminal of the battery.So if we lift up the plastic protective sleeve there, notice that we have some lugs that we can connect to. So what we're going to do is we're going to crimp on this eyelet, and then I'm going to take off this guy right here, this nut with a 10-mm. And that's where we're going to connect our red wire to. All right, so if you don't have a nice end, go ahead and just trim off some of the insulation there, twist your wires up nice and neat. And we can slide our eyelet over top and crimp it down.So we're getting our crimp tool back out here. I'm going to just give it a little tug test, make sure that wire's in there nicely. Now we can take this nut off and slide this over top and then tighten it back down. All right. Now that we know our positive wire reaches and everything's connected, go ahead and put a couple zip ties through wherever you see fit. Now, of course, we're going to have to run, or you're going to have to run another positive wire on the other side. So it's a good idea that when you do run that other positive wire, that you throw a couple zip ties on that as well.All right. That's the install process. Just don't forget to put on your fender flares and/or your fender flare liners. And that's going to wrap up this review and install of the Redrock Aluminum Side Step Bars with LED running lights and sequential signals and step lights for your '18 and newer Wrangler JL four-door. Thank you so much for watching. And for all things Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Side Step Finish||Black|
|Side Step Type||Fixed with Lighting|
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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