(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys. So, today, we're checking out the Raxiom Control Box with the switch panel fitting all 2007 to 2018 at JK Wranglers. So, if you have auxiliary lighting on your JK or any auxiliary accessories or you're looking to add some, a control box, and this one, in particular, is going to be a great choice to take a look into. So, a lot of the time, once you have a lot of accessories on your Jeep underneath the hood and inside the engine bay, the wiring can get pretty messy and pretty unorganized, not to mention some of the auxiliary wiring does not include fuses as well as relays that can draw some energy from the battery, taking away from the life of the battery over time and it can also be unsafe. Now, with this option, this is going to organize all of those wires into the control box, making it looking very clean underneath the hood. And it's going to have relays as well as fuses inside on the circuit board. Now, what I really like about this is the fact that it's also epoxy-potted. So, it is waterproof and shockproof, perfect for you guys that do take your Jeep out off-road and want a little bit of peace of mind, or even if you just want some peace of mind knowing that your wires are in there and safe and sound.Now, on top of the heavy-duty construction that this has for a control box, this is also going to mount up about six accessories. So, you have six places to put in auxiliary lighting or any other wired accessories that you have in your Wrangler. And this is going to plug it directly into the switch pod that's going to mount right in the middle, right on that middle footman loop, making it very accessible to turn on and off all of your accessories or your accessory lighting. Now, what I do really like about this one, in particular, is that both on the control box, as well as the switch panel, you are going to get a little LED voltage meter, and this will allow you to keep an eye on your battery's voltage, so you can really pay attention to what's going on inside your Wrangler.With all that being said, this is going to come in at roughly $200. And in my personal opinion, I think for what you're getting out of the kit, that that is set at a good price. Now, in comparison to some other options, this is going to have more than some of the other choices, as far as bells and whistles are concerned, especially including the voltage light that you have on both the control box, as well as the switch panel. Now, other choices that are set up very similar to this may only have the rocker switches there and may not include the voltage meter, so you really don't know what your battery is sitting at. And then other choices are usually going to be a smaller version of this that you can manually wire in, but they won't come with a switch pod or they'll just come with a switch pod and you would wire it into that. Now, with this it's going to condense everything into one control panel, one circuit board, making everything very clean underneath the hood, and you do get that very accessible switch pod mounted right up in the middle and it's gonna look good with the blue LED rocker switches and the blue LED voltage meter.Now, as far as install is concerned, I'm going to give this a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. There's very minimal wiring as far as actual splicing is concerned. A lot of this is plug and play. And it is pretty easy to get the job done in your driveway in about an hour with some very basic hand tools. But hooking anything up to this, that is going to depend on what accessories you have. However, it is still a pretty simple job. So, speaking of that install, let me run you through that right now.The tools that I used for my install were a trim panel removal tool, a Phillips head screwdriver, a flat-head screwdriver, a wire tool, a pair of snips, a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, an extension, a 10-millimeter socket, and an 8-millimeter socket.So, our first step is mounting up our control box. Now, you need to locate your PCM. It's right on the left-hand side of your engine bay. And next, we're going to take out the two bolts that are holding it into the bracket for the PCM. So, we're going to completely take out the one on the right towards the actual engine. And then on the left, we're just going to loosen it up because as you can see on the back of our control box here, there's a slot and then there's also a hole on the other side, and those are the mounting points that we're gonna utilize. So, I'm going to start off with the front. I'm using an 8-millimeter socket, and I'm also using an extension. This is just gonna give myself a little bit of room. And then once we get the control box in here, this is going to allow us to kind of sneak under the control box and tighten it back up. So, we're going to completely remove this one on the side. And then we're just gonna loosen this one up so we can pull the PCM out and slide the control box behind it. Once that's pretty loose, what we can do...you don't need a lot of room, just enough, put this behind here. All right. Then we can take our bolt, the other side. We also want to make sure that that ground right here is getting attached. Then we can take our 8-millimeter socket and our extension, start to thread that into that retainer clip. So, once you get that one tightened up, we can tighten up the one on the side. And we can start to run our wires.So, every wire attached to the control box besides this white wire is gonna go over to the battery side. This white wire is actually gonna go inside the cab area and connect to our switch panel. So, what I'm gonna do is kind of drop it down to this hole on the left side if you're facing the front of the Jeep, the left side of the brake master cylinder, and that's gonna run inside the cab area. Now, it might be helpful to grab something like a flat-head screwdriver just to help the plug through. And then you'll be able to put the rest through. Now, this is going to come right down in the footwell area on the left side of the brake pedal. We'll grab that in just a second when we work on the inside mounting up our switch panel, but for right now, I'm just going to feed this through, and then we can head over to the battery and hook up our leads. You want to run the wires over on the back. And this kit does include a bunch of zip ties so you can zip tie them up out of the way. I just would make sure that first, you run them where you want them to make sure that there's enough length and you have them where you want them, and then you can zip tie them up at the end.So, what I'm going to do is grab our positive and our negative and kind of put them in the spot that we need them to be in. This is also a kill switch. And if it does pop and you need to reset it, you can just pop it back down. But I'm going to take a 10-millimeter socket and connect our power to power on our battery. Then we can do the same over on the negative side. Then we can connect our fuse adapter. Now, this is not going to be connected when it does come out of the box, I have already connected it. All you need to do is grab a pair of crimping tools and just take the supplied butt connector, crimp it down, and then you'll be all set to go. Then we can pop open our fuse box and we can locate our ignition fuse for our trailer lights. Now, it's gonna be the M2 on the side, that 20 amp fuse, we can pull that, and we can install that in our fuse adapter. So, once that's in there, we can take the fuse adapter, pop that right into place, cleanly run our wires over to the side, close up our fuse box. And then we can head inside the cab area, run our wire, and hook up our switch pod.So, like I said, the cord is going to drop down on the left side of the brake pedal. Then we can head up and start to remove some trim pieces so we can run this up and to the middle footman loop. So, I'm gonna take a panel removal tool, take off this trim piece on the side. And then you should have a clip right over here. It's a Phillips head clip, you can take a Phillips head screwdriver and pull that out. We actually don't have that installed here because we take this off a lot. But if you pull back the A-pillar trim, we'll be able to sneak our wire up in there and run that to the other trim pieces. So, at the same time, you can pull down on this top one. Once you have it through to the other side of the roll bar, you can start to tuck it in. And then we can start to pull down on this trim piece here. This is all just gonna be held in by clips. Then we can run it this way behind our footmen loops. And then after this wiring harness is here, we can mount up our switch panel.So, in the kit, you're also gonna have this bracket. This is what's gonna hook this to the footman loop. I am going to take the provided screws and thread them into the switch panel. And you can kind of thread them about halfway down with a Phillips head screwdriver. And then what we can do is plug this in. Now, what I would recommend is to make a small notch on your trim. You can do this with a pair of snips. You can do this with a body saw. It really doesn't matter how you do it. But a little notch here is going to make it look a little bit cleaner. And this will clip in correctly once it's installed. And this is going to sit in place. The wire is pretty thick, so we'll put a little bit of pressure on it if it's not tucked in correctly. And you'll see that in a second because we're not gonna cut this here. But you still can do it without cutting it, it's just going to come out a little bit. So, once this is tucked in, we can hook this part on to the footman loop, reach around the back, and peel off that 3M backing. Then we can clip this back into place. And just make sure that this bracket is as tight as you can get it. And that's what's gonna hold it in place. We're gonna hold that 3M there for as long as we can, make sure it's stuck there. So, after it's on there, all you just have to do is make sure that it's tightened down correctly. If you kind of snugged it up like I did before, it should stay in place. However, if you need to snug it up a little bit more, you can push up on this weatherstripping and push down on this panel here. Tighten it up with that Phillips head screwdriver. However, this is complete. We just have to put on our trim panels and make sure that everything is all set and then we can hook up any accessories. I'll show you guys how to do that.So, we're just gonna tuck these back in here. Line up our trim pieces. Get them back in place. So, I don't have any accessories that we're going to hook up to this right now, but I still want to show you guys how you can do it. So, as you can see, these are labeled, and right underneath is going to be at the place where you are going to wire them in whether you're wiring in a couple of accessory lights or just one. So, switch 1, switch 2, switch 3, and so forth. And then you're going to have your voltage meter. So, I'm gonna take a flat-head screwdriver, and we're gonna take out this screw on the side and expose the circuit board. So, once that's out, we'll be able to flip this open. Now, at this point, as you can see, we have a bunch of resistors and fuses on the circuit board. And then on this back row here, this is where we're going to wire in all of our accessories. So, just like the top here, these are going to have labels as well. So, switch 1, switch 2, switch 3, so forth. And next to them, you're also going to have a ground. So, ground all the way through down to 6. So, if you are hooking up an accessory, it's usually going to have a positive and a negative lead. If you want to hook it up to switch 6, for example, you're gonna hook up the positive lead on the accessory to this one right here, and then the negative on to the ground next to it. So, once those are on there, you can go ahead and close this up. There's also going to be little attachments included in the kit in order to install them on here that you're going to attach to your leads on your accessory. But once you're all finished, you can take a flat-head screwdriver. This also is going to have some magnetic to it. So, it shouldn't fling inside your engine bay. So, that's something that's little...that's pretty cool. Tighten this up and that's gonna seal everything. And then once that's tight and your accessories are attached, then you're all set to go.That's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products just like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
What's in the Box
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