Free Shipping on Orders Over $75. Details

Talk to Wrangler Enthusiasts
1-877-870-8556
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
Logo Image
$12k Summer Sweeps, 3 Chances to Win! Enter Now >
$10 OFF – Jeep Show View Deal

MORryde Tailgate Reinforcement Kit (97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ)

Item J104172
Call a Wrangler Enthusiast at 1-877-870-8556
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
$0.00
Market Price $477.24 You Save 13% ($62.25)
Our Price

$414.99 (kit)

FREE Shipping

Will this fit your Vehicle?

Select a different vehicle Help?
Update or Change Vehicle
In Stock

Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code
We're sorry, zip can't be updated at this time.
    Create a list
    Add to New List

    Saved - View your saved items

    We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.

    or use

    PayPal Icon

      Video Review & Installation

      Merideth: Hey guys. So, today we're checking out the MORryde tailgate reinforcement kit, fitting all 1997 to 2006 TJ Wranglers.Now, jumping right into it, this will be a great option for TJ owners that are looking to upgrade to a larger or heavier spare wheel and tire that may put some extra stress or extra weight on the tailgate and they want some extra reinforcement for some peace of mind when it comes to the strength of the overall tailgate.Now, this is a great choice also if you have already done so and upgraded to a larger wheel and tire and you've noticed some sag from the extra weight that's hanging on your tailgate. Now, this kit by MORryde will completely replace the factory hinges with heavy-duty steel hinges that connect to a large steel tailgate reinforcement plate. It's going to up the strength of the tailgate to support any additional weight from a larger wheel and tire.Now, this reinforcement kit will work with the factory spare-tire carrier or one that mounts up just like it and will come with just the reinforcement plates and the hinges so you don't have to worry about upgrading your tire carrier or outsourcing for a new one if yours is already in good shape. This will also be great if you're looking to retain the stock function of your tailgate and you're not necessarily looking to upgrade to a full spare-tire carrier system like a bumper-mounted tire carrier that may be a little bit more expensive than this kit.Now, this kit will also be laser-cut and made with heavy-duty welds and will have a very strong black-powder coat finish on top. It's going to protect that steel underneath and the welds giving it a pretty heavy-duty look and also just helping it last for a very long time. Now, overall, this does have a very solid construction for a reinforcement kit and, of course, it's going to beef up those hinges when it comes to your tailgate.Now, when it comes to the pricing, this is gonna come in at roughly $400, and that is a very average price point for a reinforcement kit or a hinge kit like this. Now, some other choices for upgraded hinges and reinforcement kits may be a little bit more expensive, considering that some will come with tire carriers that are specific to that kit.Now, this one, again, is going to reuse the stock carrier. So, if yours is in good shape, you don't have to worry about getting a full kit like that or outsourcing for another carrier, switching it up at all. You don't necessarily have to do that with this kit. Some other choices, on the other hand, will come with less than what this kit comes with, only including the hinges and not necessarily the reinforcement plates.Now, again, this is going to be a solid choice if you're looking for a heavy-duty support system but you don't necessarily wanna upgrade to a full carrier system and you're just looking for something simple but also wanna have something heavy-duty in the meantime to support that larger wheel and tire on the back of your TJ.Now, when it comes to install, this is going to be pretty easy, and I'm going to give it a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It'll take you about 2 hours to get the job done in your driveway. And you're gonna need some basic hand tools for the install like a ratchet, a standard socket set, Torx bits, and Allen keys. Now, I would keep in mind that factory hinges, especially on the TJ and older model Wranglers, can get rusty, especially when it comes to the hardware. So, keeping a drill, some good drill bits, and a nice wire brush nearby is always recommended.Now, speaking of the install, one of our ExtremeTerrain customers is going to walk you right through it. So, enough for me, let's hop into the install.Male: What tools we use? So, we know, obviously, PPE is most important. A good socket set, specifically 13-millimeter is really what you're gonna need for most of this. A really nice set of torque bolts, whatever. You're gonna use some T45s, you're gonna need a T35s. So, if you have a jeep, you probably already have this set already or a similar set. So, not a big deal, you should already have all this stuff. You're gonna need a 6-millimeter Allen wrench just for putting the bump stops on. If you end up having to drill out the screws, you're gonna need a good set of drill bits and a reverse stripped-bolt remover tool. Anti-seize, like I said, it comes with some in the pack or you can have your own. Towels, obviously, for when you get anti-seize on you. You're gonna need a box cutter, obviously, to open the box. You know, some of the other optional tools. A mallet for fine adjustments. Crescent wrench, if you need it. Masking tape for if you need to do any touch-up paint like after you remove the hinges. And then a wire brush so you can get these pretty cheap there for drills and you can just wire brush all that rust away before you put the new set of hinges on. Obviously, a drill, if you're gonna be going that route. A breaker bar, again, as long as it fits your socket set, it doesn't really matter what it is. You just want something that you can put your socket wrench in and get a little extra torque on. Box end wrenches, you're gonna need them for the back-end stuff, you don't have two set of socket sets. And then, so, to be able to remove the bolts, you're gonna need something to do it. So, a heat gun, a soldering iron or blow torch, worst case. You'll peel your paint but you'll get that bolt out real quick.Okay. So, installation basically starts with removing the old tire carrier and everything. This jeep never had one so we're left with this, we're actually gonna skip down to Step Four, which is removing the [inaudible 00:05:34] bumpers, these, that's a Torx 30.As with all installs, don't forget your PPE, it's super important. We're not doing any grinding or anything so I don't need the eye protection, just the hand protection for now. So, we're gonna take our T30 Torx unit and we're gonna remove these bump stops. It's apparently not a T30.So, mine are actually T25. Once we get it off, we'll see what kind of bolt is actually inside of it. Because, obviously, it's not a factory bolt. These come off pretty easy. You don't fight with them too much. Pop right off. We're gonna set these inside the jeep for now. Off to the side, if you have a work cable, and move on to the next one. There we go, four bump stops removed.If your jeep uses a thread lock on the factory screws, some do, you're gonna have to use a breaker bar, drill them out, or even just heat them up. So, I prefer to use a heat gun for the heat method and then a breaker bar to break them. I've had to drill some out in the past and it's not fun to clean up. So, best bet is if you can get them to break, make sure you use a heat gun, give it plenty of heat. If you don't have a heat gun available, a soldering iron works really well for that as well, just to get enough heat to that thread lock to loosen it up so you can actually use a breaker bar to break...Next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna remove the hinges. So, we've got our four bolts here. So, we're gonna go and dig into those. So, the hinges are a standard T40...Torx 40. Again, if they're original factory, you're gonna need to use a breaker bar to break the thread lock on them. These ones that I'm pulling out now, obviously, were not factory because this is not a factory tailgate anymore. Go ahead and pull those out. If your tailgate is latched and solid, once you remove these, it will actually stay in place, you don't have to worry about it falling out as you remove the bolts.Then onto the tub side of the bracket. Again, if it's got factory bolts, you're gonna need to heat break them. So, if there's a spacer on the inside of the jeep, you wanna make sure that, when you take your second bolt out, you don't let that fall. If you do, it's not a big deal, you can reach in and grab it...right there, there's your inside spacer [SP] from the factory. Just pull those bolts out, the hinge should now break off, and there you go, there's an old hinge. Same thing on the bottom. Although this looks like a factory bolt. We're gonna need the breaker bar and the heat gun for this one.So, when you're doing a breaker bar and a heat gun, you wanna get your torque as close to the wrench as possible. And like I said, I prefer a heat gun but a soldering iron will work just as well. Stick it right in there into the bolt, let it heat up. You'll hear it pop and you know you've broken through. We're gonna apply heat directly to the bolt pad. It does take a minute to heat it up, so, make sure...there, you hear the pop. Now we should be able to undo that. A breaker bar, most people use just a regular socket set, make sure it's got a thin handle. And then just the steel pipe that fits in. There's no reason to buy a giant baker bar when you've got all the equipment to do it at home.Like I said, PPE for your hands when you're doing anything with grinding or drilling, you always want PPE for your eyes. Personal protective equipment is your number one most important tool.So, now that those are drilled out [inaudible 00:11:35] this is the inside bracket for the lower half. You see how rusty it is, the bolts were literally rusted in place, there was nothing I could do to get them out but drill them. So, now we've got our hinge off, we're just gonna do a little cleanup here, get rid of this calcium buildup from the hinge. It's aluminum rocks basically and then we're gonna clean up this rust a little, we're gonna hit a little rust preventer. Word of advice that I always use is, before you replace anything, you take off, make sure that there's no rust. If there is, you wanna hit with a little rust preventing paint. It's never gonna be seen so it's not a big deal but it'll prevent that rust from spreading any further once we clean it up.Now, I cannot stress it enough, when you're working with paints and sealers and anything, clean, clean, clean is the most important thing. So, for rust prevention, my basic go-to is Dupli-Color Rust Barrier. It's a rubberized paint, a real thin coat. Like a spray paint though so it's not like underbody. So, we're just gonna give it a quick, you know, touch up to cover up the rust...not too much. You can get inside, get inside.So, we're gonna take a minute here just to take a second and talk about organization. Organization on these is super important for your tools and your parts. If you're like everybody else, including myself, when you get your box, you get the bag of bolts, you rip it open, you dump it out, and you go, "Okay, I got all my bolts." You counted them, you're good to go. But I always take that one extra step and, with plastic baggies, sort and organize my bolts. And I'm gonna go over why right now. Let's go over to the parts real quick.So, you can see we've got our parts here kind of laid out. I've got them all sorted in bags. Because, when you get to the next step, it's gonna tell you to grab...I think it's an M6 bolt. There are M6 metric bolts and SAE bolts in this package that are almost identical. The only difference is the thread pattern. So, if you don't have a tool like this one, a thread checker, where you can go, "Okay this one's SAE, this one's metric," and sort them out, you have to be careful you're grabbing the correct bolt. Otherwise, you're gonna get stuck and it will ruin the threads of the bolt and the jeep and you won't be able to get it out. You'll have to re-tap it, and that's not something you wanna do.So, like, you can look here, here's two of the bolts...that are almost identical. One's SAE, on the left, and one's metric. So, if you're looking at the top of the bolts, there's a little bit of a difference here. Hang on...there we go. So, the metric's got a tighter thread, I guess, is the best word for it, versus the SAE. Same for the long bolts, this exact same issue, almost identical bolts, just a different thread pattern on them. So, it's very important that you separate out your sets of bolts so that, when you go to grab the right one, you know which one you're looking for.So, step one is we're actually gonna remove this seat-belt mount so that we can put the interior mount on. Technically, it's called the roll bar bracket. So, it mounts here, directly attached to the roll bar, and it gives us a spot to screw in here on the back side for our hinge, to make everything nice and secure. So, we're gonna remove that. So, that is a T40...excuse me, a T45 torque wrench. So, it's gonna go right inside here underneath the seat belt. And you're just gonna give it a nice twist and it should start coming right out.Even at factory, these are not lock tightened in, so just give it a good pressure. If you need to use your breaker bar, go ahead get that going. But we need to get this seat belt out of the way so we can get to the actual bolt that we need.Okay. Now, with that bolt out, this should just slide up and off and off to the side. And there you go. So, this is the bracket mount, the bolt that we're actually gonna be using. Again, that's a T45. So, you don't have to change anything. Remove your extension, if you don't need it, because you always wanna be as close to the bolt as possible. And a breaker bar, if you need it.Okay. So, now that that bolt's out, we're gonna just mount our new bracket right in here in its place. So, that's gonna sit just like that. Gives us a nice clean spot to bolt to. So, then we're gonna take that same bolt we just removed and we're gonna put it in here. Same spot. Let's go ahead and ratchet that back in. But do not tighten it down, we wanna leave it loose till we're done with the installation. So, we got a little bit of movement in it still.So, the first thing you wanna do is you're gonna take the large bracket itself and we're gonna mount it to the tailgate. You're gonna mount it using two 5.6 by 1/4 bolts along the top pattern where the old bracket would be, the tire carrier would normally sit.All right. So, when you're lining up your bracket, you're gonna wanna use, from the left, the second and fourth hole to go to the old tire-carrier mount. We just want these finger-tight because it's just gonna hold the bracket in place.Next piece is the tub reinforcement plate, that goes over the tailgate...or, excuse me, over the tail light. That mounts here, kind of slides in, and wraps over it. Now, on this jeep, we're gonna have a problem because this jeep has armor and it does not line up correctly over top of the armor, obviously.I modified the armor, that, obviously, was not part of this installation video but for anyone who wants to know, I just took an angle grinder, cut out the spot that I needed to fit the new bracket, cleaned it all up, painted it, let it dry. So, we're ready to move on with the next step of the installation.Next thing is to put your tub reinforcement bracket or...yeah, top reinforcement plate that goes right here. Normally, the tail light would be here, so, this would just slide over top of the tail light and kind of rest on it. Then your hinge goes on next and you wanna use your 5/16-18 [SP] thread 1.5 inch. They will actually go straight through a hole in the bracket to the bolt hole underneath. You see it come out there. Make sure, when you mount it, you actually put your washers in place, washer and bolt. And those will go through holes in the reinforcement plate and then through holes in the tub. And then, if aligned right, it'll go all the way inside up and through that bracket we just put in step one.Next would be washers and nuts. But before we do that, the most important thing is, because these are semi-permanent and we're not gonna be pulling those specific bolts back out again, we're actually gonna put some Loctite on...or not, excuse me, some anti-seize on it. MORryde does provide anti-seize with the kit. We're gonna put a little anti-seize on the bolts, on the inside. Now, be super careful with this stuff, if you get it anywhere, it pretty much will get on everything. So, you wanna be super careful when you're using this stuff not to touch anything with the anti-seize, except for the bolt. So, just a dab on the bolt. Honestly, it doesn't take much of anything at all, just enough to kind of coat the threads. And when you put the bolts on, it'll spread it out. Again, if you get anti-seize on you, make sure you get it off. Everything you touch, from that point on, will have anti-seize on it and you'll leave marks all over, silver marks. If you do get anti-seize on the paint and you need to get it off, WD-40 actually is the best thing for cleaning it. It'll help kind of lift it away from the paint.So, now that we've got our thread [inaudible 00:21:33] on...or, excuse me, thread anti-seize on, with the anti-seize on, now we're gonna go in and put our washers and nuts on on the inside. Okay. So, on the inside of the jeep, you can see here where the support bracket is and where those bolts go through the tub and into that bracket. Again, there's washers and nuts on the inside. And make sure you're using the anti-seize to prevent issues taking it out in the future.The one thing that I recommend that the instructions don't say...or say and I say the opposite is it says to save the bracket from the bolts down here that we removed when we were taking the old hinges off. I'm actually gonna throw that old bracket away and use the one that we took off the top. So, I say that because this is what came out from the bottom and this is what came out from the top. So, we're gonna use the one that we took off the top because we no longer need that. We actually have that bracket on the inside now that came with the kit. So, this is gonna go up inside the tub here and it's gonna be used as the backer plate for these bolts.For all of your regular bolts going in to your hinge here, you're gonna use the number 10 bolt, which is a 5/16-18 1/4 bolt [SP]. So, that's these ones, you're gonna put a washer on it. And, so, you're basically gonna be snugging everything up now, still finger-tight. But you're gonna run a bolt through the hinge here into your tailgate. All right. And again, same thing, there's a hole, right through this hole here where you can put that in. So, for these bolts, you're gonna need a number 13 metric socket. And like all the other bolts, don't forget your anti-seize. It's vitally important you put this on all your bolts when you go for the final installation. So, it doesn't take much just to kind of a little dab on the thread. And be super careful you don't get it on anything else.Sometimes you're gonna have to wiggle these ones around a little bit to get it to line up inside of that, the tailgate...which is why we don't tighten anything up yet. You'll feel it grab, once it goes in, just take it finger tight...just to get all the bolts held in place. And we're gonna do the same thing on the bottom.Now, when you go to put your hinge on here, you're gonna have to hold the backing bracket inside the tub while it screws in. So, this one won't need nuts, it'll just be the backing bracket. So, what I like to do so I don't make a huge mess is knowing that this is gonna be inside is I'll take my anti-seize and I'll put it directly on here. Like so. So that, when I hold this up in there, I'm not getting anti-seize all over the outside. It doesn't really matter which way it goes up in, you just wanna make sure you get it, if there's any loose metal or anything back there, you get that cleaned out before you stick your bracket up in there.Start with one bolt to get the bracket to stay in place and get all your holes lined up. And then get this screw started. Once that's gripping into the bracket, you can actually just twist the hinge and pull your other screw out. And run this second bolt in. Once those are gripped in, take them finger tight. So, if your original factory [inaudible 00:27:06] is bent, you may find it hard to get your screws to line up quite right [inaudible 00:27:11] work them in. And again, we're just gonna take this finger tight. You'll find, if you finger tighten it too much, you can't adjust it to get it in place. So, we're gonna loosen this just a little bit. Find those inner threads, tighten it down.Okay. So, that's your hinges. Once we get the actual back plate in place, we'll tighten those down. But right now we're gonna leave everything just loose at the moment.The next one is a very important step. It doesn't really cover it in the instructions but, depending on what tire you use, if you're using an aftermarket mount or larger than stock tires, you won't be able to get the mount directly in here. So, like this is the plate from my aftermarket mount. So, if you notice...bring it in closer. So, the screw holes, the bolt holes don't line up to the point where I can mount this internally. So, MORryde recommends a relocation bracket, which comes with the kit, that's this piece here. My problem with the relocation bracket is that it takes the tire up and farther out from the tailgate. I don't want that, I want as tight as possible because I don't wanna have to use spacers if I don't have to. Your tire needs to hit the bumpers and it needs to hit them solid but I wanna keep it as close to the tailgate as possible.So, I've actually had a new bracket, that I modified as well actually, fit up in here and allow me to bolt everything directly to it and keep the original MORryde frame in place. So, we're gonna get that bolted on now. Before we take those bolts out, we're gonna put a few more bolts in here to hold this all in place temporarily while we put the brackets on, the mounts on.So, included with the kit are some M6 bolts. These are your bump-stop bolts. You have lots of different ones, depending on how thick your bump stops are or if you're using the spacers or not. So, that's what all of the M6 bolts are, they're for the bump stops. So, we're gonna put a couple in here just to hold this all in place. Okay. And then we can remove these bracket bolts. Again, all of the aftermarket hardware that comes with the MORryde is a 13-millimeter socket. We're gonna take that, set it off to the side, take that off...If we get the right bracket, which we do have now, when you mount this inside the MORryde bracket, you'll see there's a gap here for the other half of the tire carrier to mount into. So, if you don't have that, you will have to use the relocation brackets to bring it out away from the body. Soft snug, finger tight. Okay. Now let's get the other half of it up there. Then our bracket slides right into that space right there, allows us to mount right up against the MORryde bracket. If your bolts are tight...that's why we leave everything loose. If you bring this bracket out at an angle, you can actually get your bolts started. And they should snug right up against the MORryde bracket and actually hold them in place so that, when you tighten them down, you just have to tighten them from the bottom like they're snug fit or pressed fit.Okay. Squeeze that all in together and up and then tighten this down to hold it in place. So, these bolts here, in the aftermarket carrier, we can tighten those down now all the way. We don't care about those being finger tight. There's the top half, bottom half. Same thing, we're just gonna tighten the bolts down in. All right. So, there's those.The next thing you wanna do is go through and tighten your hinges down. We're gonna make sure the door is solid, square, and closed all the way still. Starting at the bottom, we're gonna tighten this outer one in...and then go all the way to the bracket or to the tailgate far side. So, what this does is allows us to have a little bit of play still in the door if we need to adjust anything. So, for this one up here, you're actually gonna need your 13-millimeter on the outside and then, again, on the inside for the nut. So, if you don't have two socket sets, you can get a box end wrench, or a crescent wrench, that'll allow you to hold that nut in place while you tighten it.One thing I didn't catch...so, I'm gonna loosen this bolt here because I wanna pull the whole tub bracket, or the tub plate, I wanna pull that up, I wanna try and line it up to the top the best I can. Okay. And then we do the other side. And this should tighten up the tailgate.All right. Now that our tailgate's tight, let's see if it actually opens. Nice, even. Closes solid. Okay. So, the next important step is we need to mount the spare tire to see how much bump stop we need. Okay? So, we're gonna lift our spare. We're gonna lift with your legs, not your back. Get our studs on, put a lug nut on that stud. If we're leaving these on here permanently, we would put anti-seize on these as well. You don't want those [inaudible 00:38:22] spare tire off.Okay. Bump stops. So, there's a stop here and a stop here that we need to put our stops in so that we don't have a rattly tire. So, if you do not put your bump stops in and your bump stops do not make contact with your tire, every time you hit a bump, this thing will rattle and shake the entire back end of the jeep. So, it's super important that this is sturdy and pushed up against the bump stop. So, we're gonna take our old bump stop...that we took off at step one and a spacer and we're gonna jam that up in there to see if it's enough. And it's not. So, in order to make up the difference, I need to add more to this bump stop. So, typically, if this is a standard car factory hanger, it will be a lot closer to the tailgate so you won't need to add more to your bump stops. It looks like I need roughly a hockey-puck thickness. So, I'm gonna grab a hockey puck, we're gonna line it up and see if that fits. If it is, the easiest thing to do is just drill a hole in a hockey puck and slam it in there. I know some people take a sawzall and will cut off another set of bump stops to make that difference but hockey pucks work just as well and they're just as cheap. So, here's our bag of hockey pucks. Make a sandwich there. And our bump stop fits. Okay. So, we're just gonna drill a hole in this hockey puck and we'll do a bump stop there and a bump stop there. Now let's check the bottom. So, the bottom's actually good without a hockey puck. So, we won't need it there, we'll just need the two hockey pucks for the top. So, I'll be right back, I'm gonna drill a hole in a couple of these, and we'll get going.Okay. We got our hockey pucks ready to go. So, we're gonna take this tire back off the carrier so we can work again. A bump stop extension, hockey puck, and bump stop. So, I don't think these are gonna be long enough so I might have to go get some custom bolts. But you're basically gonna take the bolt provided with the kit, run it down through everything. Yeah, it doesn't come out the other end. So, we'll have to get some longer bolts. Obviously, 65 is not long enough. But we can do the bottom set. So, the bottom set is similar. Put your M6 bolt into your bump stop, put your spacer on. Okay, then these new bolts are 5-millimeter. So, we're just gonna line that up after we put little anti-seize on it, line it up and just screw it in place. You wanna tighten that down until...you want the bump stop to be able to turn but not easy. So, right there. Let's do the other side.Now, if you need more than a hockey puck or you need a hockey puck and a half, I know a lot of people now are 3D printing the exact space that they need. As long as you do it solid, you don't use infill, it'll be solid enough to support these and not crumple. I still prefer the hockey pucks. I know they're gonna last and I know they're solid.Just to finish this installation, we're gonna do these top ones without the hockey puck. And I'll come back and change the bolt out later. Definitely wanna make sure you put anti-seize on it if you're gonna be removing it. Now you wanna go through and just make sure everything is bolted down and tight. So, I know we didn't tighten this one down up here at the roll cage so I'm actually gonna take it out. Make sure we put anti-seize on it. Make sure you're not cross threading. If you need to release some of the tension here, go ahead and unbolt the top hinge just to let some slack into that bracket. The last thing you want is to cross thread, to be drilling it out and putting a new one in, you don't want that. So, let some of the tension out of the bracket. Make sure your screw is lined up. Tighten it down. Again, not all the way tight, you wanna get some slack because you wanna let it pull into these bolts. You want the bracket to pull tight against that bolt so that all the pressure is on the bolt itself, not on the tension that you're putting on the bolt. So, go ahead and tighten these down. And you can feel here, it's actually...I can see the bracket moving as it tightens down...pulling all that tension against the bolt.Now we'll tighten that bolt down...and put our seat belt back in place. One of the most important things to remember too is, once you're finished with the installation, these hinges have a Zerk greaser. So, you wanna make sure that you grease these really good the first time. And then, periodically, like every 6 months, make sure you hit them with a little grease to make sure that they're nice and smooth.All right. At this time, if you had a third tail light, so, it would be mounted here, [inaudible 00:47:06] and then your wires would run through. And your wires are going through this plug here under the back side. And you'd have a kit right here that connects it to the tub. This jeep doesn't have that kit so this is as far as we go with it. But we'll mount the spare tire and be on our way.Hey, guys, so just a quick recap. After everything was mounted and the hinge was, you know, opening really well without a tire on it, I found out that, after I mounted the tire...I mean it puts a lot of weight, obviously, these are big tires. But the hinge wasn't catching, it was bottoming out because there was so much weight on it. It's not that the hinge can't handle it, it's just that it needed to be adjusted slightly. Get a piece of plastic about a 1/4-inch-thick. I use these trim pullers. And you're gonna put it in here under the door as you shut it. Like that. What that does is that pushes it up. It's still gonna latch but it's gonna lift that bottom end of that tailgate. So, then loosen the bolts and re-tighten them up with this spacer in here and you're gonna have a nice clean shutting hinge at that point. Okay? Even with the weight on there, it's gonna shut real nice.Merideth: So, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install of the MORryde tailgate reinforcement kit, fitting all 1997 to 2006 TJ Wranglers, that you can find right here on extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Ideal for Oversized Spare Tires
      • Reduces Weak Spots and Damage to Tailgate
      • Reinforces Entire Spare, Not Just the Right Side
      • Laser Cut and Welded Support
      • Black Powdercoat Finish
      • Lightweight yet Extremely Durable
      • Compatible with Factory and Aftermarket Bumpers
      • Made in the USA
      • Fits 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ Models

      Description

      Put Your TJ to the Test. If you put your Jeep Wrangler to the test on a regular basis, you may notice the rear tailgate beginning to become loose, rattle or sag as the factory tailgate hinge system begins to weaken. This can be especially true if you are using oversized tires and enjoy time spent off-roading. This MORryde Tailgate Reinforcement Kit offers unparalleled strength and durability, designed to stand up to the most rugged abuse. This kit will work with factory spare tire carriers, as well as most aftermarket options, allowing you to keep your current tire mount for a practical upgrade.

      Durable Construction. Proudly manufactured in the USA, this Reinforcement Kit is laser cut and welded to ensure reliable, rigid strength. It features a unique design that reinforces your JK's entire spare tire mount, absorbing hard hits to prevent your tailgate from breaking and warping. This is a world above some competitors out there where only the right side of the carrier is supported. It's finished in a tough black powdercoat for corrosion resistance, providing tough styling you'll enjoy.

      Installation. No drilling, modification or special tools are required to install this Tailgate Reinforcement Kit. All the hardware you need for installation is included, allowing for a straight forward process to get you out of the garage and back on the trail faster.

      Application. The MORryde Tailgate Reinforcement Kit is designed for installation on all 1997 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      MORryde JP54-022

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (4) Hinge Spacers
      • (2) Hinges
      • (1) Tailgate Support Frame
      • Installation Hardware
      • Installation Instructions

      Tech Specs

      4.6

      Customer Reviews (100+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Wrangler

        • TJ Rubicon 2 Door - 03, 04, 05, 06
        • TJ Rubicon Unlimited 2 Door - 05, 06
        • TJ Wrangler 2 Door - 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06
        • TJ Wrangler Unlimited 2 Door - 04, 05, 06

            Related Wrangler Categories