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Mishimoto OE Style Replacement Radiator (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)

Item J154369
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      Video Review & Installation

      Merideth: If you're looking for one of the most affordable options when it comes to swapping out your radiator, this Mishimoto OE Style Replacement Radiator will be the one you need to check out for your 2007 to 2018 JK Wrangler. Now there are a number of different reasons why you would want to do this swap, including better or more efficient cooling or your current radiator is cracking, leaking or ultimately failing on you. Now this will be a great way to do some extra maintenance on your rig without having to break the bank with a Mopar option or a high-performance option.Now, it will also be a direct fit, taking all of the question out of the install and will require no modification in order to get this in. Now, the rad will meet all OEM specifications giving you some peace of mind there including OEM-spec plastic intakes and an aluminum core for proper cooling for your 3.8 liter or 3.6 liter. Not to mention this will come with the Mishimoto signature lifetime warranty making it all the more worthwhile.Now again, this will save you a couple of bucks compared to other choices on the page at roughly $200. Now what I will say is just like any other OE style part, this is gonna be very simple and to the point without all the extra bells and whistles that some of the more expensive choices may have. Now a lot of pricey options will be more for performance applications if you're doing a lot of wheeling or your cooling system is really tested with constant use at high temperatures. Now some may be a bit bigger than this choice which will require some extra modification that you may not want to do. Now I think if you're daily driving your Wrangler or even off-roading it and you're looking for an affordable, yet reliable rad, then this is going to be a great pick.Now, install is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter just because it is pretty lengthy and it's a little bit more in-depth than the average install, taking you about three hours to get the job done. Now speaking of the install, one of our customers here has installed this on their JK and is gonna walk you through that process step by step. So that wraps it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into the install.Man 1: These are the tools for the repair we have today. We have adjustable locking pliers, 90-degree pick, 1/4-inch driver, 3/8ths driver, 7-millimeter-deep socket, 8-millimeter-deep socket, 10-millimeter-deep socket, 10-inch extension, 10-millimeter wrench and an 8-millimeter wrench. They're just on the same wrench. Electric ratchet, impact driver, three-eighths-quarter-inch ratchet and a knife. And this was all we needed today to swap this radiator.Man 2: And the funnel.Man 1: And the funnel. That was to fill it up.Man 2: Yeah, that too. And here you see we've got a large tray to catch as much of this coolant as possible.Man 1: The [inaudible 00:02:45] only were used in the front or the corner right here. You have to use a pair of pliers or maybe you can get lucky with your fingers.Man 2: Break it free.Man 1: There we are. Turn that in place. You can turn it all the way out but slowly. Either way, whatever you decide to do, have your drain pan in place and go ahead and take your radiator cap off as well. Help the flow of coolant come out.Man 2: Make sure it's not hot when you go to taking the radiator cap off or starting to drain this, make sure everything is cool. You do not want hot coolant on you. So, at this point, we're playing the waiting game for the coolant to drain.Man 1: Yes, but it's slowing down. That can't be all there is.Man 2: Worth noting that my heater core has gone out recently and drained a lot of the coolant out of this system. Although that seems like not enough coolant.Man 1: Next step. Take off the lower radiator hose as well. That'll help you drain coolant more effectively. All of these clamps are hooked together with these eight-millimeter worm-style clamps.Man 2: This is the upper hose I'm looking at here. We'll start back here to the lower hose. All right, so from the radiator from the top, there is your lower hose and he's going in there to get that one off.Man 1: All that was was an eight-millimeter socket, a long extension. My clamp could be that or a constant torque clamp. Either way, access is limited. So, it might help and aid to take this air filter box out of the way if it is a constant torque clamp. [inaudible 00:05:08] down there to take the filter housing out it would be a great benefit.Man 2: All right, so decided to go ahead and remove this air intake here just to make it easier to access everything and to show you guys what's going on as well.Man 1: All these are eight-millimeter worm-style clamps as well.Man 2: Still the same tool.Man 1: You get lucky, you'll be able to break it free with your hand, pull it off at the same time. Have that out the way. You can leave that connector connected. Won't do any harm. There are four clips pulling this air filter housing in, two here, one there and one right in front of the snorkel. Take this one off, put it out the way where no debris can fall into it. Rise up. Now's a good time to inspect your filter to make sure it's good to go, doesn't need any service. Now there are...what's holding this in place? Yeah, just pops in. those three tabs pop into those three rubber grommets.Man 2: So, there's your removed air intake. So now you could see the hose [crosstalk 00:06:22] bottom hose going into the radiator and that clamp that was removed.Man 1: Now it's not as low of a radiator hose as you'd normally expect. It's not midway up but it gives us some inclination as to whether or not we have all the coolant out of the system. You can see a lot more coolant now. Before I forget, one good safety measure to prevent any internal damage if you take the air snorkel off. Put something in the throttle body to prevent dirt from getting inside of it. From here we need to remove the overflow reservoir, upper hose, some of this fan shroud and assembly.So, I'm taking this upper radiators off our case. We're placing the hose in. You don't have to do this step necessarily but you could just take the clamp free. We are removing the entire hose, though, so get both these clamps loose. Now is a good time, though, if you have never, service your thermostat. And always when you take these hoses off...never really thought about but inspect them for air flow and coolant flow to see if you can bend them straight but this one you can. You can actually see light travel through it at some point. Yeah. And that lets you know you have a good hose.Man 2: We're replacing the hoses also with Mishimoto silicone hoses and we're replacing the thermostat.Man 1: This just slides into two slots. No bolts necessary. Just that one hose. Gonna route it up the shroud and connect it to the inlet.Man 2: So, all of that is removed. We're also installing the Mishimoto racing thermostat which will go here, just to kinda do everything at one time. But for the radiator, all you need to is remove the two hoses and get rid of that overflow.Man 1: From here...oh, it looks as there's one connector going to the fan and it, for our sake...let's disconnect the fan. If you have any issues getting these off because they do sit in the front where a lot of air flow there by the connector. You press this tab down right here on the gray portion of the connector. If at any point it just does not come off, push forward a little bit. Push that tab down and slide it off. That helps unleash the rubber seal inside a little bit so you can get the connector off a little easier. Now you can leave the shroud on or off. In our case, we're just gonna pull it off as an assembly and swap this over to the new radiator on a bench. But from here it just looks like there is 10 millimeter over here, 10 millimeter about here and... Anything else I can tell? I think that is all. Now this is just a 10-millimeter socket.[inaudible 00:09:41] out. There's that one. If you don't have power tools, not everybody does, simple ratchet and socket work just fine. These aren't ridiculously tight. Do note that the grommets in these might fall out. These aren't. Just keep that in mind. So we realized we have to remove the grille to get the radiator out. From this step, pretty simple. There are supposed to be six retaining clips but we only have four. One here, here, here, here as well. You can use a plastic trim removal tool, but for me, this pick works just fine. Just slide the center piece up, grab it and they both pop out. Put them somewhere where you will not lose them because they're small and necessary.Man 2: At least four are necessary.Man 1: At least four. This one is different style but same concept. Just slide on the edge. Pick up. Pull the body out. They do come apart so make sure you have your pieces together. Like that. Now as far as the grille removal goes, there's six at the top. There's also six actual clips that press in. Two are on each side of each. [inaudible 00:11:08] pop there. And then pop there. I guess the four clips were already loose. Very nice. You can try to disconnect these connectors but these do not look easy. Or take the easy route and just disconnect them in whole. It also gives you a chance to inspect your bulbs. Make sure there's no damage. Lights are not burned out. And grille's up and out. And that is that.Next step is remove your four-bolt and your condenser package to the cooler. You may or may not have this. This is an aftermarket transmission cooler. You may have it. If you do, you know, if you don't, it just stays along with the condenser. There's four eight-millimeter bolts that are tucked away. One in this corner, one in this corner, same here and right there as well. You'll have the access to get them out with power tools so [inaudible 00:12:13].These are rubber. Not metal. Air deflectors help channel air to the radiator directly. They are mounted here as well as to the radiator themselves. So, unclip them from the subframe of the radiator support. All right. So, I made a discovery that these four supports are zip ties, in fact, that go through the core of the radiator itself. So, we have to remove the fan and shroud in order to access those clips in order to get the entire package out. That is what's holding us back right now. As far as the radiator, anything goes in our...appears to be two bolts. And they're eight-millimeter each.So there are three clips on this flash sealant just like the air deflectors on the side of the front radiator support. They're Christmas tree clips so have to fight them a little bit. That's one. That's two. And that's three. Look at that. Up and out. Now's a good time to inspect the blades. Make sure there's no chipping, cracking because this is plastic. So, everything looks good. Everything looks fine. [inaudible 00:14:59]In here you can see four clips. All right, so these particular clips that are holding that cooler to the radiator are not reusable. They're not threaded or anything of the sort.Man 2: So, what we've had to do is just kinda figure out a way to cut the back clamp off of these so they can be removed. And of course, you can see the one right above the one he's working on where it's kinda damaged those fins for the heat shield there but this is a radiator we're not gonna be reusing. And we don't have any of these style mounts. And again, this may not...most likely is not on your radiator at all. Unless you had that transmission line cooler there mounted on the front, you won't run into this. But we're gonna use zip ties to remount that cooler with the new radiator. And he's literally just using a knife to cut the back side off of these. You can see the front.Man 1: Once I was...the first time I was forgiving but the second time you have to figure it out a little better. These are good clips, retaining clips that still remain.Man 1: They're like Christmas tree style connectors that just go through the back side and press this to it.Man 2: And you may even have something else connecting your...if you have a cooler, connecting it on yours. We just wanna get that cooler removed before getting this radiator out.Man 1: There is one more clip. [inaudible 00:16:47] there's another one [inaudible 00:16:48] right here, another Christmas tree connector. This harness, move that. And you might be able to get your radiator out.Man 2: He's trying to watch out for the freon line. So here on this side, we've also got coolant lines coming off of that aftermarket transmission cooler that you may or may not have to worry about.Man 1: It's gonna be very difficult to see since we have a power steering line tucked in as well as coolant lines. But the lower shroud, it looks like lower shield, there's a clip. Let me show you on this radiator, on the new one, this clip goes into this lower portion right here. It's tucked away. Shield comes up and clips in right there. So, taking that out as well. That's the bottom side of the radiator.There we are. Radiator's out. That's coolant. That clip right there is what I was just fighting with.Man 2: Just got a little bit of coolant to drain out. We need to compare this one to the new one.Man 1: You can see this one was beginning to leak a little bit. [inaudible 00:19:09] there's some saturation. Could be from the transmission line coolers but saturation there as well as in this corner. So [inaudible 00:19:19] working down here.Man 2: You wanna hold the two up side by side and... this will be our first look at two together to see how they line up. And it looks pretty dead on. Size-wise looks good. If you check the top inlet hose, you can see the new one with the clips. Very similar if not identical setup to the old one there. Here's the other side. I mean, everything really appears to be identical, doesn't it?Man 1: One thing to note. The big issue with aftermarket cores is the regular core thickness. This one is absolutely identical. It's factory thickness so it should be big plus, big benefit. You've got same coolant capacity. Don't have to worry about [inaudible 00:20:18] whatnot. [inaudible 00:20:22]. It checks out.Man 2: Should we attach the rubber...attach the rubber housings to it before we put it in?Man 1: Oh, yeah, no, no. We gotta [inaudible 00:20:30]Man 2: Okay.Man 1: Oh, [inaudible 00:20:36] swap. Oops. These arms, they are a D-shape insert. The legs only go one way so we don't spin it twice. They're like that.Man 2: Is that just the mount for it?Man 1: Yeah, it is. It's an isolator. Keep from vibrations. So that slides directly over.Man 2: For the records, the pants were not stained before the radiator install.Man 1: Okay, God.Man 2: A little bit more coolant there.Man 1: Yeah, a little more.Man 2: These are fresh stains.Man 1: These...are they on the right side?Man 2: No.Man 1: [inaudible 00:21:46]Man 2: Yeah. That's right.Man 1: [inaudible 00:21:50] on.Man 2: It's upside down [inaudible 00:21:51]Man 1: Put this right on.Man 2: Let me see how those will line back up.Man 1: Literally just perfect.Man 2: [crosstalk 00:22:02] clips are on exactly right.Man 1: Right. Everything's swapped over. The air shield's on. We have our isolators slides. Let's just set this back in smoothly as before.Man 2: I wouldn't have defined removing it smooth so hopefully more smooth than...Man 1: Hopefully more smooth [inaudible 00:22:24]Man 2: Than removal. We know where the clips are now.Man 1: This is true.Man 2: And you guys get the benefit of us learning it and showing it.Man 1: That's in. So, both isolators and the radiator itself are almost...there we go. Seated there. Seated there. Everything's in. Now just reverse. Let me start with this clip because it is the most complicated to get to in removal. Pro tip, you can get to it right here. Go directly in front of the fender well and it's straight access to that clip right there. So that's the one that we had problems with.All right. And we'll do the same thing to the other side. Yep, that clip. Right. All right. Now just to give the radiator some support. Grab one of these 10 millimeter [inaudible 00:24:09] in place. Just hand-tighten it.Man 2: Considering kidnapping a dog from my neighbors right now. Made it shut it up two or three times already. Pro tip, remove all the dogs from the neighborhood before you remove the radiator. That's a very professional tip.So, there's that. All right, so again this may not apply to you at all. If you don't have one of these aftermarket transmission cooling units, then you will not have had that on the front. But we had removed those Christmas tree style clips and those can't be reused and we don't have anything like that. So, what we've decided to do is go with just some zip ties here. He's putting one going in, one going out so we can zip them together. And where those original Christmas tree mounts were, there are similar isolator kinda rubber mounts there. So, we're using that same...those same locations to do this. And we're just running them through the fins on both sides and we're running them from the fins of that coolant unit and then strap them down to hold it in place. So, there will be four of these altogether and he's working on putting in now.There's the first two completed. And again, there's that unit that we'll then run them through there and we'll shove that strap down in just a second. All right. So, we got all four of those installed. And just if you're doing that, just slide that cooler right back on where it was. And you maybe can get those same connectors somewhere if you know ahead of time. I think our zip tie system here is gonna work just fine. And it's actually a little less intrusive to the current units there. But again, if you didn't have that unit, you wouldn't have to worry about any of that at all.Man 1: Next step. We're gonna reinsert these clips on this air deflector after both sides. From there, we're gonna put these eight-millimeter retaining bolts back in for the condenser package [inaudible 00:26:39] to the radiator itself. Again, going the four corners here, here, there and there. And from the looks of it, everything lines up just as it should, perfectly. You just gotta finagle your system a little bit to make holes line up but...because the weight difference is there. Everything else is going pretty smooth.These don't have to be amazingly tight. Just snug. [inaudible 00:27:29] not move freely and there's no gap but you can see overhead here ever so slightly that bolt goes in right there. Like right there you would see there'd be a gap. Between the two, there's no gap there whereas over here you can still see the gap present between the two. Once that everything's tight, the gap closes out to about that. So, if there's no gap, you're good to go. Don't overtighten it because this is plastic. And it will break.Man 2: As I said, now we ended up removing the zip ties. Some of these zip ties.Man 1: Prematurely secured the aftermarket cooler [inaudible 00:28:19].Man 2: If you're dealing with a cooler like we are, I would suggest just kind of...we've got two zip ties connected right now just to kinda keep it in place. But it gives us enough play for him to realign the bolts to reconnect the radiator.Man 1: I highly recommend starting on these bolts by hand. Like I said before, they are screws and their holes are plastic threads. [inaudible 00:28:57] you have them started prior to putting a wrench on them. Make sure that you're not cross-threading anything. Snug there.Snug there. I assumed tightening the bolts down would help making sure everything's aligned but one of the issues remaining is that this shield does move independently because it's not a hard metal shield. So, the bracket itself of the condenser isn't lining up to that shield, that hole and then going to the threaded portion of the radiator itself. So, there is a issue, big issue we're running into a little bit right now.Man 2: So, you got the radiator and all lined up. It's that shield in between the two that's...gotcha.Man 1: And I suppose your biggest problem right now...Man 2: Would it help if I was pushing the screw from the front side when you're moving the shield?Man 1: There it is.And there's that.Man 2: So, we're gonna tighten these and then redo our zip tie process from before. Same way as we did it before. Just again. We used one to hold that in place while he did this. So now we're gonna go back through and put the other three into place on this exterior transmission coolant here, which in most cases you won't have again on your radiator at all. So, we've just replaced the zip ties that were originally there. So yeah, get back and mount it.Man 1: So now we're doing the fan. Keep in mind, if you do have one of these aftermarket coolers, your supports that go through the radiator, try not to damage your fins. You're gonna have to separate them a little bit but the fins are just for airflow of the actual coolant passages are the flat portions that go horizontal. This slide right in. You go in there. That too. [inaudible 00:31:58]. Snug.[inaudible 00:32:52] And the three clips on the bottom side. Can't forget about those. Just those Christmas tree stock clips. Oops. One. Two. [inaudible 00:33:14] tighten. There we go. For these, just reconnect the connector. [inaudible 00:33:34] seats. Push in place. This one, this connector doesn't have a Christmas tree stock clip that goes on the radiator support right here as well. Helps locate the harness.Man 2: Let me come around.Man 1: Yeah. Was disconnected initially but that right here, just press it in. Just like that. And that's what that [inaudible 00:33:55] both out of the way, which we can do that now. You know what? [inaudible 00:34:20] Use this one. Not too tight. Just making contact with everything. Everything's good and secure. So now radiator hoses, [inaudible 00:34:51] intake. Grille back on. All right, so the last thing we did was putting fan shroud, reconnected fan. Now we are replacing our radiator hoses. We're gonna do that as part of this. This is eight-millimeter [inaudible 00:35:08] gear clamp. Ratchet would work fine. I just have power tools. That's that. Simple, straightforward. Now we have these from Mishimoto. They are silicone, superior grade hoses and black color [inaudible 00:35:31] clips.Man 2: Ordered these from ExtremeTerrain as well.Man 1: That is upper. I like to put the hose clamps to where the bolts are facing same way.Man 2: Fitting perfectly on that radiator.Man 1: And that is top notch right there. Okay. So that's that. All right, so as I was saying before, the hose...because of the access, have your screw facing the front of the engine would be easier, have this groove facing to the side so you can come down from the top and [inaudible 00:36:26] on there. [inaudible 00:36:35] slide on perfect. Keep in mind you have to twist it a little bit to rub the frame right there with that harness. Just make sure it clenches good. Check the alignment over there, over there. [inaudible 00:36:52] So these are seven-millimeter bolts. Not too tight.Man 2: It might be reasonable to consider replacing the hoses with the radiator.Man 1: Now we're putting the reservoir back on. Now's a good time to clean it if you already haven't. We cleaned ours not too long ago actually. All it is is these two square pieces just hooked into the fan shroud. Like so. And then just route your hose through and over there. Adjust accordingly. Just like that. Good to go from there. For this we have a RedRock cold air intake for this engine. Not the factory one. Decided to put this one while we were here and upgrade some things. It's a pretty straightforward swap. All you have to do is change that sensor to this [inaudible 00:38:29] after the throttle body. Make sure you have your line connected to that port. This air box [inaudible 00:38:36] install but it's not the easiest. So just go into there. But you get the idea. It's an air box. So that's there.Man 2: It would actually be a lot easier replacing the stock because you just put the box and tube back for the stock and don't have to replace that sensor. Put that hose back on exactly the same. [inaudible 00:39:04] clip exactly the same. So, this is really just a different box and filter. Also available at ExtremeTerrain. This is the RedRock cold air intake kit we're installing.Man 1: All these are eight-millimeter clamps. So, tools are pretty on par with [inaudible 00:39:27]. This one. Make sure you are seated on the throttle body. You can feel the middle of this. Split the difference between that [inaudible 00:40:04]Same thing with this hose. You can get to see the lip is on this. These [inaudible 00:40:17] as well.Man 2: And with the factory, you just have the one clamp, right?Man 1: In our case, it's right there. And it's good and tight. Last but not least, air filter. So, this filter box is kinda tight fit. Just put your clamp where you can easily get to it. That is the intake install. Now we have to do the grille and this radiator here swap is all but filling it and complete. So, for us, we did not remove the connectors or disconnect the lights. We just removed the [inaudible 00:41:05] connectors. They weren't being very cooperative. Line everything up.Man 2: We either attach the two harnesses back or we're gonna start the two bulbs just depending on what option you chose. The line and the clamps on the bottom. They just push right back into spot.Man 1: Don't forget about the ones behind each of these lights.Man 2: Then just snaps right back in twice.Man 1: And don't forget where you put your clips from earlier. Now is when they are needed. For our sake, there are six clips. And we had four.Man 2: So, I'm sure you can buy those at the hardware store if you wanted to get the other ones replaced.Man 1: Now all we have to do is fill it and that is it.Man 2: And that brand-new radiator sits exactly like the stock one did. Really that's as close to stock as I think. I mean, everything lined up perfectly. No real issues at all. And the old cap fits the new radiator. Is that right?Man 1: Now we're just adding the coolant to this. Always go back with 50-50 mix. [inaudible 00:42:55] coolant is what we have here.Man 2: And make sure you buy the coolant that matches your system. For me, it was the yellow.Man 1: That is a very good point.Man 2: And you can buy that anywhere.Man 1: We're thinking this takes about two gallons. Roughly. We're doing a completely emptied system. But we did a heater core swap as well and the thermostat replacement so every portion of the cooling system that holds coolant minus the actual engine block was drained and replaced.So, we swapped out funnels for something that's a little more better fit for the connector that's what you wanna do here, we're about to start it. [inaudible 00:44:16] coolant in the radiator just have to close the coolant system. And we'll fill this funnel up, start it, let it start bubbling, gurgling, burp all the air out of it and hopefully by then all the air will be out. And the swap is complete. [inaudible 00:44:32].Man 2: Gonna get the fluid in and the air out.[inaudible 00:45:10]Man 1: [inaudible 00:45:20] Yeah. At any point, if you think you have an air pocket, squeeze your upper radiator hose and burp your air out of it. So, you can see the level is maintaining right here at the top of the neck. At some point, thermostat housing will open or the thermostat will open. Coolant levels will drop as coolant rushes into the engine. What happens is engine heats this coolant, makes its way to the radiator, gets cooled, goes through the thermostat, thermostat opens allowing cool coolant to go to the engine.Man 2: So, we're waiting until that happens to put more in.Man 1: [inaudible 00:46:01] the waiting game and that's about it. Coolant level didn't drop any or not much at all really. So now we're gonna top off the coolant reservoir or the overflow reservoir here. From here, you can top it off until...there is a minimal and maximum mark. You wanna go up until the max mark on this side next to the AC lines. Go to that point. And from there, you're good to go. There we are. [inaudible 00:46:38] everything's working right, no leaks. We have put a piece of cardboard down the bottom. Measure for anything. [inaudible 00:46:46] dirt. It's the best way of checking for leaks. [inaudible 00:46:50] plastic cover that goes over the radiator.Man 2: Other way. Yeah.Man 1: There we go. And all it is is these four plastic clips that go into the fan shroud. And that's it.Merideth: So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and the install of the Mishimoto OE Style Replacement Radiator fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. For more videos and products just like this, remember to always keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Direct Fit For Your Vehicle
      • Works With All Stock Engine Bay Equipment
      • Meets Or Exceeds OEM Specifications
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Models


      Quality Radiator. Replace your worn our or damaged radiator with the Mishimoto OE Style Replacement Radiator. This OE replacement radiator offers a direct fit for your vehicle and works with all stock engine bay equipment.

      Meets or Exceeds OEM Specifications. This unit is constructed in adherence to the highest manufacturing control standards for performance you can trust.

      Warranty. This product is protected by a limited lifetime warranty, which protects against defects in materials and workmanship from the manufacturer. The manufacturer accepts no responsibility for lack of maintenance or improper use.

      Installation. It takes no more than 1 hour to install this product if you have moderate-to-expert level mechanical skills.

      Application.A Mishimoto OE Style Replacement Radiator is compatible with the 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK.


      Mishimoto R2957-MT

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

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