(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. So, today, we're checking out the Mammoth 3-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, fitting all 2007 and newer Toyota Tundras. So, if you are in search of all the benefits of a lift kit, but you're looking for one that's not going to break the bank, this is going to be a great choice to take a look into. Now, this option by Mammoth is going to do a good job at giving some clearance or some better ground clearance to your Tundra, opening up some room in the wheel well for some more aggressive wheel and tire, and overall creating a more aggressive stance with your truck and eliminating that factory rake. As far as tire size is concerned, our Tundra has 31-inch tires on it, and with this kit, you can definitely fit a more aggressive 31-inch tire, like a mud-terrain without having any issue and having plenty of clearance. You can fit a 33-inch tire. Just keep in mind that you may have to do some minor trimming of the splash guard to avoid a little bit of rubbing, especially if you're running a more aggressive mud-terrain tire. Now, as far as the leveling kit is concerned, this is going to include everything that you need in order to get that extra height on your Tundra, whether you're taking it off-road or you're just taking it on the worksite or really just daily driving it around.Now, this is going to come with spacers for the front struts. They are going to be made of a billet aluminum material with a nice black coating on top to make sure that there's no rust or corrosion happening here and that they are going to hold up for a long time. Then we're going to have 2-inch spacers for the rear leaf springs. Now, something that I'd like to call out about the spacers for the front is the fact that these are not going to measure out to a true 3 inches. These are actually going to be a 1-7/8 of an inch. However, the way you're going to get that 3 inches in the front is with the spring compression, as well as the suspension geometry paired with the spacer. So, I would keep that in mind when you are taking a look at this spacer up close. Nonetheless, this kit as a whole is going to come with everything you need in order to install it, and overall, going to give you a lot of benefits at a very affordable price point. Now, speaking of that price point, this is going to come in at roughly $150. In my personal opinion, I think you're getting a lot for that price. You are getting a very quality kit and you're getting everything that you need. Now, some other more expensive choices are usually just going to come up with some extra features or some extra components in the kit.They may have a couple of drop brackets or accommodating components in order to accommodate for that added height. They may include control arms or even struts and shocks once you get higher up in that price point. And then some less expensive choices are usually just going to be for either front spacers by themselves or a lower lift as far as a 1-inch or 2-inch lift instead of the 3-inch front, 2-inch rear that I have here. So, it kind of comes down to your personal preference in the benefits that you're looking for in your application. So, overall, if you're looking for an aggressive stance, you're looking to get a decent amount of height on your Tundra at a very affordable price point, you're not looking to break the bank, this is definitely going to be right up your alley. Now, as far as install is concerned, this is something that you can definitely get done in your driveway. I'm going to give it a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. You will need a decent amount of basic hand tools and about four hours' worth of your time. So, speaking of that install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for my install were a pry bar, a couple of breaker bars, ball-peen hammer, a dead blow, a pneumatic impact, a trim removal tool or a clip removal tool, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a 7/8-inch wrench, a 17-millimeter, 14-millimeter, and 12-millimeter wrench, blue Loctite, a punch, an electric impact, and a socket set ranging from 24 millimeters down to 10 millimeters. So, the first step to our install is to get the truck up in the air and the wheels and tires off. Now, in order to take off the wheels and tires, you're going to need a 22-millimeter socket. Now, I am on a lift here and I do have the lower control arm supported with a pole jack. Now, if you're on the ground, we are going to be starting in the front. So, you can jack the front of the truck up, chock the rear wheels, and support that lower control arm with either a floor jack or you could also use a jack stand. Now, our next step is to disconnect our brake lines. So, the first brake line bracket that we're going to disconnect is up on the upper control arm. For this, I'm going to use a 10-millimeter socket and my impact wrench. Now, we will be reattaching that later, so make sure that you keep the hardware for these brake lines.Next, we can remove the bracket that's on the frame. You can squeeze a socket behind here if you'd like. I'm going to use a 12-millimeter ratcheting wrench just because there's not a lot of clearance with this fitting right here. The last bracket that we'll be taking off is on the spindle here. I'm going to use a 12-millimeter socket to remove that. Again, save this hardware. We'll be using it later. So, right on the back of the steering knuckle, there is going to be the ABS line or the wheel speed sensor. What I'm going to do is remove the clips that are holding that in to give this line a little bit of slack so when we drop down the knuckle, this is not going to have any tension on it. So, I'm going to take a clip removal tool or trim removal tool, just squeeze it behind that clip there and just pull back and remove that clip. All right. So, once that's off, you'll have a little bit of slack, and then what we can do next is disconnect our sway bar. With a 19-millimeter socket, we can disconnect the bottom part of our sway bar end link at the lower control arm.What we can do next is disconnect our outer tie rod. Now, there's going to be a cotter pin in there. So, what I'm going to do is take a pair of needle-nose pliers and remove the cotter pin first. If it's an old cotter pin, it might be pretty rusty and take a little bit to get out. Cotter pin does break on, you can just use a pair of vice grips to pry it out of there. Next, we can remove the nut that is on the outer tie rod after that cotter pin is out of there. I'm using a 24-millimeter socket and also my impact wrench. Now, because the ball joint is tapered, it has basically pressed itself into the steering knuckle. So, what we're going to have to do is knock this out. I'm going to take the nut back out of the socket, thread that on just a hair, and we can take a ball-peen hammer and tap that out of the knuckle.What I'm going to do is thread it on backwards. So, basically, the nut is going to be upside down, and then I'm going to make sure that it's flush, give it a good tap. We just need to break that ball joint loose, but we also don't want to mess up the threads in the meantime. And sometimes when you hit on the knuckle itself, it doesn't actually pop down or come out of that knuckle unless you're prying on it. So, this is a little bit of an easier way. Now, you need to make sure that the back of the nut is flush so you're not damaging the threads. All right. So, once that's flush, I'm just going to give this a good knock with a ball-peen hammer. You can shock the side as well. This is really just about shocking it out of the knuckle.So, once the ball joint is out of the knuckle there, what we can do is take that 24-millimeter socket and completely unthread that nut so we can remove the ball joint from the knuckle. All right. Then we'll be able to rotate our knuckle. And at this point, we can disconnect our upper control arm. So, next, what we can do is take out this cotter pin. I'm using a pair of needle-nose pliers. This one's going to be a little bit different than the one on the outer tie rod. This has a hook. So, once that cotter pin's out, we can take a 19-millimeter socket. This can be a deep socket, whatever you have room to do, and we're going to disconnect this nut here. I'm not going to fully remove it. I am going to remove it to kind of get the gunk off the thread, but I am going to thread it back on a little bit. We do need to tap this ball joint out of the spindle here. This is tapered as well, so it's not going to come right out. We will have to take a hammer to the spindle.All right. That nut is off. That control arm's not going to come off just yet. We can thread this on a couple of threads, just to catch the control arm so we have some control because this spindle once it's disconnected from the control arm is going to flop one way or the other. So, once that nut is threaded back on, what we can do, take our ball-peen hammer and hit the spindle.So, as you can see, the control arm popped out because there's tension pulling up on this and this wants to go down. So, I'm just going to take a 19-millimeter socket and completely remove that nut. The control arm is going to pop up out of the way because of the tension on the bushings back there, and then we can rest our knuckle to the side. Now, what I would recommend at this point is just to support this whether you have a caliper hook, a bungee cord, really whatever you'd like to support the spindle because this is going to kind of set the axle at a weird angle and we don't want to stress anything out or cause any excessive wear. Now, at this point, what we can do is start working on our strut so we can remove that and add a spacer. Next, we can remove the lower strut bolt. Now, this goes all the way through the lower control arm. I'm going to use a 7/8-inch wrench on this side. And then on the nut side, I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket. I'm going to leave that in there for now. We're going to head up at the top and disconnect our strut up at the top. Next, we can disconnect the strut up at the top. I'm going to use a 14-millimeter deep socket in order to do that. There's gonna be four studs.Now, for the back ones, you may not be able to use a deep socket. So, what I recommend is just grab a 14-millimeter wrench or a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we can remove those two at the back as well. What we can do now is tap out the lower strut bolt. I'm going to use a ball-peen hammer and a punch here in order to do this. So, next, we can loosen up the back part of our control arm or the back mount. Now, this is going to have a nut on the inside here. I'm just going to take that 24-millimeter socket and a large breaker bar and loosen that up. I already cracked it free. It might be a little bit difficult to crack it free, you might have to use heat. Just need it loose enough to where we can drop the control arm. We don't need to completely disconnect it. So, there's a little gap there, so what we're going to do is move to the front mount. Now, the bolt up at the front is a cam bolt. So, you won't be able to loosen it from the inside like we did with the other one. So, I'm going to take that same 24-millimeter socket, same breaker bar, but we're going to loosen it up from the bolt head side.All right. So, once that is loosened up, what we can do is drop our lower control arm and remove our stut. So, now that the lower control arm is loosened up a little bit, what we can do is grab a pry bar. And what I'm going to do is just pry on the sway bar right here. And we can just try to slip the bottom part of the mount out of the lower control arm. I gonna have to do a little bit of wiggling. So, once you have that lower part out, you should be able to wiggle it out from the top. We can remove our strut. So, now that our strut is out, what we can do is add our spacer up at the top. There are going to be a couple of cutouts on all sides of the spacer for the factory studs. And then the holes up at the top are going to be our new mounting locations for our strut tower.So, what we can do now is just line up where the strut spacer needs to go. We can pop that into place. Now, if it does get a little bit stuck on the threads, you can just use a dead blow and kind of tap it in place very lightly, of course. And then we can use a 14-millimeter socket and thread on the factory bolts. This is what's going to keep the spacer attached to the strut. Just going to give a couple of hand threads on each one and then we can tighten them up with our impact.So, at this point, we're ready to put in our strut. However, since we added that spacer, we're having a little bit of a clearance problem. Now, you may be able to pry on the lower control arm to drop it down enough. However, we still need about 3 inches of clearance in order to put our strut back in. So, at this point, what I'm going to do in order to get that clearance without harming our axle here is to reconnect the spindle at the upper control arm. This is going to support the weight of the rotor, the caliper, and the axle itself. And then I'm going to unbolt the lower control arm at the knuckle. Now, the ball joints are bolt-in, so this is very easy to do. And that's going to give us our vertical clearance that we need in order to put our strut back in, then we can just fold it up at the end. So, that's kind of our easiest step in order to get our strut back in with that spacer there. So, at this point, what I'm going to do is reconnect the spindle to the upper control arm.So, now that the upper control arm in the spindle is connected, what we can do is unbolt our ball joint here. Now, this is going to be held on by a bracket. As you can see, this is our ball joint on this bracket. I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket to remove the ball joint bracket that's connected to our lower control arm from our knuckle. So, the upper control arm pulled it off of that lower control arm. And now, what we'll be able to do is fully lower this to where we need it while our upper control arm and our spindle is supporting our axle. I'm actually going to get rid of the pole jack since we don't really need to support anything at the moment.Now, with the help of a friend prying down on the lower control arm, we can put in our strut. Now, you want to make sure that the pin or punch hole at the front of the strut spacer is aligned with the front. And then we can secure it down at the top with the provided bolt, lock washer, and flat washer in the kit. So, I would like to mention when you are putting in your strut, there is an alignment punch at the front here. So, these are going to be your front two holes. These measure about 3 inches apart and the rest are going to be a different measurement. So, you want to make sure when the strut is going in, that these are facing outward towards the wheel well and this is going to be the front part of your strut here.Now, at this point, what we can do is secure the bottom of our strut. So, again, have somebody pry down on the lower control arm and I'm going to take a smaller pry bar and just push the strut inward, just so we can line up that bolt hole. So, what I did was just wedge a pry bar behind it. I lined up the bottom strut with just a punch, put a pry bar behind it, and I was able to get the bolt at least started. If the bolt doesn't want to go through all the way, what you can do, like I did, just take a dead blow and tap it through. Now, we can tighten it up with a 7/8-inch wrench and a 22-millimeter socket. After we have the lower strut bolt tightened down, we can move up to the top. I'm going to use a 16-millimeter socket and a 3/8-inch drive ratchet in order to tighten up the four bolts up at the top. So, at this point, we're going to reconnect that lower control arm.I did put the truck on the ground with the back tires touching the ground, just to make sure that when I raise up the lower control arm, the spring compression is not going to push the truck off the lift point. So, again, I'm on the ground with a floor jack that's going to adjust the height of that lower control arm. I also have a pry bar up top that's going to pull down on the upper control arm to align our knuckle. I'm going to keep that upper control arm and the spindle attached. We're going to get this lower control arm installed, and then we can start buttoning everything up. But I also do have a little bit of blue threadlocker on here. You want to make sure that this is on both of those lower control arm bolts or the ball joint bolts, then we can line it up, and thread it in.So, it might take a minute to get them lined up just because this is going to move horizontally as it is going to move vertically as well. And since this is on a ball joint, this is going to be able to tilt. So, it might take you a little bit to get it lined up, but once you do, just make sure that you hand-thread them in a decent amount. What I'm doing right now is just pulling down on this knuckle to make sure that these are hand-threading in. Then we can tighten them up using a 22-millimeter socket. So, now that the lower control arm is attached to our knuckle, we can start buttoning everything up. I'm going to start with the outer tie rod here. We're just going to move the knuckle to line it up. We can push that right through. We can attach it up at the top with the factory castle nut.So, now that the castle nut is on there, we can tighten it up with a 24-millimeter socket and pull that tapered ball joint into the knuckle there. And then what we can do is add a new cotter pin. So, you will need a new cotter pin for this because the old one is not reusable. Also, ours broke. So, we're just going to install a new one and take a pair of needle-nose pliers after that's in there. You need to make sure that the castle nut is aligned with that hole in the ball joint. Then you can take a pair of needle-nose pliers and bend that back. I'm just going to tap that down to sit on top. Then we can tighten up the ball joint up at the top for our spindle to upper control arm. I'm going to use a 19-millimeter socket for that.After that's tightened up, we can reinstall this cotter pin. Now, this is a specific cotter pin for the ball joints. I gonna reuse that one from the factory. So, at this point, we can reattach our brake lines. We're going to leave our sway bar end link for last because we have to do the other side still and we need that disconnected for that. So, I'm going to start with this upper brake line and reattach it with the factory hardware. Once you get that threaded in a little bit, we can use a 10-millimeter socket and tighten that up. So, next, we can attach the brake line to the spindle. Same process. Grab the factory bolt, align that bracket, and we can tighten that up. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket for this one again.So, this one, you're going to need to start by hand a little bit more than the other ones, just because it is behind this fitting here, then I'm going to use a 12-millimeter ratcheting wrench and we can tighten that up. So, after that brake line is tightened down, we can repeat that same exact process on the other side. And then we can come back to that sway bar. Now that we have the other side complete and the other sway bar installed, what we can do is come back to the passenger side or whatever side you started on, and we can start to reconnect the sway bar. Now, it is going to be put at quite the angle where you can get the bolt in at the front, but it's not going to line up in the back just yet.So, what I'm going to do is just tap it through to where it meets the other side. I'm just going to do this with a hammer. All right. So, at this point, it's hitting that lower control arm there. So, I did have to drop the truck down in order to reconnect the sway bar end link just so I could put pressure on the lower control arm to kind of flatten out this plane with the sway bar here. The sway bar end link was at an angle where it wasn't lining up with the welded nut in the back. Now that that is lined up, what we can do is take a 19-millimeter socket and tighten that up. So, the last thing that we have to do upfront is tighten down those lower control arms. Now, I like to do that while we truck is on the ground just so we don't damage the bushing. That's going to put the control arm at the correct angle so that when we tighten it down, it's not going to pull on the bushing and potentially tear it. So, at this point, we're finished up in the front. We'll do that when the tires are back on the truck so we can start in the rear, and our starting point back here is taking off the bracket that's holding the emergency brake line. I'm going to use a 12-millimeter socket and we're going to disconnect the brake line bracket at the axle. That's going to give us some slack so we can lower down our axle.So, now that we disconnected the e-brake bracket, what we can do is disconnect our shock. I'm going to use a 17-millimeter socket and wrench in order to do that. So, once that bolt is off, what we can do is take this out. You may have to play with the axle height in order to remove this. That's another thing that you want to make sure to do, you need to make sure that the axle is supported because we will be dropping this down in order to make room for our lift block there. So, once that bolt is out, we can move on to the leaf spring. Next, we can remove the U-bolts that are basically attaching the leaf spring to the axle here. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter socket to remove the four nuts that are holding them on.So, if your impact wrench doesn't take it off, you can just use a breaker bar to kind of crack it free. A lot of the time, these bolts are really rusty. I also recommend using some PB B'laster. So, what we can do now is take off this lower bracket so we can take off the upper U-bolts. We're going to be replacing these. So, even if you have to cut these in order to get that off, you can do so. So, what we can do next now that the axle has dropped is put in our spacer. Now, this is going to be tapered. As you can see, the smaller part is going to be facing the front. We're just going to align this with the alignment slot in the axle. And then we can start to raise it up a bit to meet our leaf spring. Now there is an alignment dowel on the leaf spring as well.So, you may have to pry on the leaf spring in order to kind of push it outward. Now that there's a block in there, it is going to sit at a little bit of a weird angle. But once it's in there, we should be able to raise it up and attach the U-bolts. Then we can attach the U-bolts in the factory location. We're going to be using our new U-bolts. So, next, we can take our lower factory bracket. Now, the axle is going to be sitting in this cutout, so you want to make sure that that is aligned, and line up these holes. You may have to pinch the U-bolt in order to get it through both. So, once that's sitting flush with the axle, what we can do is attach our new hardware, which is the flat washer and the nut. And we'll tighten these down in a criss-cross pattern. Now that these are on, what we can do is tighten these up, again, in a criss-cross pattern with a 22-millimeter socket. You want to make sure that that top new bolt is sitting in that alignment bracket up top as well.So, at this point, now that we have our block in, we can resecure our shock. Now, you will have to raise up the axle in order to do this. And remember that you put 2 inches of lift underneath that leaf spring, so when it compresses, it's going to want to compress off your lift point. So, make sure that you are keeping an eye on your lift point while you're doing this because it's not going to be too easy to get this shock in the place. But once you have it aligned, what we can do is grab the factory hardware and secure that back down. Once that bolt is through, we can grab the factory nut, slide that back on. We can tighten it down with that 17-millimeter socket and wrench. What we can do now is reattach our emergency brake line bracket using that 12-millimeter socket and the factory bolt. After that is on, what we can do is do the same thing on the other side. Now, that the truck's down on its own way, we can take a 24-millimeter socket and tighten up the lower control arms. So, after everything is tightened down, I recommend that you torque everything to the factory spec. And I also recommend that you take your truck to go get an alignment. And then you'll be all set to go.So, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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