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Hey guys, I'm Eric with ExtremeTerrain. In this video, we're gonna do a review and install of this Mammoth 3-Inch Front 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, for all 2005 and later Toyota Tacomas. Now, this kit is really going to appeal to the Tacoma owner out there who is looking to lift their truck in a very affordable way, and they're not necessarily looking for a very sophisticated suspension lift. Now, this kit will effectively lift the front end of your truck by about 3 inches and will add about 2 inches to the rear. And that's gonna basically take away the factory-designed rake. Now, what do I mean by rake? Rake is that kind of slightly nose-down stance that the Tacomas and most vehicles come with from the factory. Now, that rake on pickup trucks is useful when you add cargo or other loads to the rear of your truck, this is gonna cause the rear of your truck to squat down.This kit is gonna basically eliminate that and give you added ground clearance and also the potential to add an up-sized tire if you wish. Now, as you can see, I have all the components on the table here in front of me. This is a pretty basic kit. And it's gonna give you that lift that you're looking for. So if you want a more complicated complex suspension lift that will allow you to have more articulation with your suspension, or you wanna do more extreme off-roading, I encourage you to look at other solutions. But if you're simply looking to get added ground clearance for your truck, this is an excellent solution at a very affordable price. Now, the components you see here in front of me, we have the front spacers here that are made from billet aluminum, and they're coated in a black anodized finish.And these rear blacks are made out of sturdy steel and coated in a thick, durable, black powder coat. Now, one thing I do wanna point out with the front spacers is that when you unbox them and you take a look at them, they're not actually 3 inches thick. These front spacer blacks actually measure about an inch and a half thick, but because when you add them to the top of your front struts, it's gonna change the suspension geometry in a way that's gonna actually give you about 3 inches of lift. Now I've kind of generally mentioned price a little bit earlier in this video, these currently come in under $125 for this entire kit. And you're gonna find that's very competitive compared to other basic spacer lift kits, and it's certainly a lot more affordable than full-blown suspension lift kits. Now, as far as the installation goes, I'm giving this a very solid two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter.There is some in-depth suspension work we're obviously gonna be doing. And we're gonna demonstrate that a little bit later here in the video. You are gonna have to find a way to safely lift your truck and secure it up in the air on jack stands, as well as using a floor jack. So anytime you do that, you wanna make sure you're going nice and methodically through the installation and being safe. With that said, I think you should be able to get this job done in about four hours with some basic hand tools, maybe a tool or two that we're gonna talk about here in the video that you might not have in your personal toolkit. So, just kind of weigh that out. Going into this, we're gonna show you what you're gonna need and walk you through the install.So let's take a look at those tools right now and go ahead with the installation. All right, guys. So, the tools we're using for this video, we're using an impact wrench, a long pry bar, a 6-millimeter Allen socket, an extension, a swivel socket, 10, 12, 14, 17, 18, and 19-millimeter sockets, as well as also a 19-millimeter deep wall socket. A pair of pliers, a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 17-millimeter crescent, a 16 and 18-millimeter ratcheting wrenches, a 19-millimeter crescent, a hammer, and some penetrating oil. All right. At this stage, you're gonna have your truck lifted and wheels and tires removed. Now make sure when you're lifting your vehicle that you have strong, good condition jack stands underneath the frame of your truck and have a floor jack ready to be able to manipulate the suspension and I'll go into that a little bit more later. But really, overall, what we're looking to do is only loosen and remove those components that we're gonna need to do in order to get our strut out.And then we're gonna basically bolt on the spacer block to the top of the strut tower and reinstall it. So, we're gonna try not to do anything more than basically what we need to do to get access to that. So, let's go ahead and get started. Now, eventually, we're gonna disconnect our top ball joint that's connecting our spindle here to our upper control arm. But before we can do that, we're gonna need to create a little bit of slack in our brake lines here so we don't cause any damage. So, the first thing we want to do is take out the bolt here that's holding this bracket to our upper control arm. And this is a 10-millimeter socket. Second bracket is right here attached to the spindle, this is a 12-millimeter.And something I like to do guys is kind of a little tip is so you don't lose the hardware and you remember which bolts go where, I just go ahead put them back in finger tight. Makes everything a little bit easier when we're going back to reassembling our front suspension. All right. Next, we're gonna wanna disconnect our tie rod end from the spindle. In order to do that, we're gonna have to remove this cotter pin right here. And so, just grab some pliers. And then this castle nut's gonna come off, you're gonna need a 19-millimeter socket for that. Now if that doesn't want to come out, we can grab a hammer and we'll tap here to try and get this to pop out. If you're gonna be given some real solid wax on here if you have a really stubborn fitting, I recommend just putting your castle nut back on there just finger-tight, not all the way down, so you're protecting the threads as well. Apply a little downward force with a pry bar here while I'm hitting with the hammer. That's gonna allow us to turn this as needed. Because next, we're gonna need to access some more things and that's gonna give us the room to do that.All right. Next, we're gonna remove this nut here so we can get our sway bar link out of here, because eventually like I said, we're gonna disconnect the ball joint up here and lean the spindle out. So in order to do that, we need to disconnect this. I know I told you guys to put this back in before as a tip, but actually, we're gonna need to remove that right now just to get us better access to this nut. I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench on here because it's probably gonna want to turn the entire fixture. As you can see right there, that's starting to turn. So in order to counteract that, grab a 6-millimeter Allen key, or I have a 6-millimeter Allen socket here, put that in place. And depending on the condition of your truck, if you've got a lot of rust build-up here, this might be a little more difficult to take off. We obviously work on these trucks a lot here at... we obviously work on these trucks here a lot at ExtremeTerrain, so these kind of come off a little bit easier. Your experience might be a little bit more challenging. So go ahead, pull that out and we can hold that down kind of out of our way. And next, we're gonna go after the ball joint up top here.All right. Before we're gonna take this out, actually, guys, we're gonna go after the three nuts up top here using a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I gave these a shot of PB B'laster penetrating oil before we started filming. You're probably gonna wanna do the same, these are likely to be pretty tight for you. So, now that we have that loose, and I'm just gonna leave that a couple of threads on. We'll leave this one on while we take the other two off.All right. First thing we need to do to get this nut off is we'll have to remove this cotter pin. All right, guys, I'm gonna use a pry bar up in here just to kinda keep control of our upper control arm and kinda pull it down. We'll leave a little bit of the pressure on this nut. This is likely to be very tight for you. You might be able to tell it looks a little wet, I sprayed some penetrating oil on there to hopefully loosen it up. Grab a 19-millimeter socket. I have one on my impact gun here along with a swivel socket so I can fit it in there. And I'll leave that on a couple of threads. Go ahead and give it a tap here if this does not want to pop out with a hammer. Like I said, I have that the castle nut's still on there by a couple of threads that's gonna keep it from popping up wildly. All right. Now you can see it popped out there. Like I said, it's quite stubborn you might have to give it several reps with a hammer, and I'm gonna pull this back down till we get our nut out.That's gonna allow us to have the spindle swing down and kind of out of the way. All right, guys. Now we're gonna remove the bolt holding in the lower part of our strut. I'm gonna need a 19-millimeter crescent on the bolt side and 19-millimeter socket over here for the nut. Kind of lifting up on the lower control arm, release some of the tension and we'll get that bolt out. And the lower control arm sags a little bit, which is good. We're gonna push this down as much as possible. All right, guys, if you remember, we have one more bolt up top here on our three studs. I'm just gonna take that out. All right, guys, now that we have our factory strut off the truck, I put it up here on the table, show you one of our front spacers here. Now you'll remember up at the top the way this is attached to the truck is through these three 14-millimeter nuts that mount onto these studs. We're gonna reuse these factory nuts, take your spacer and where you see this kind of recessed hole, line that up on the studs for the strut like that, then take the factory nut and get it started. Then do that for all three of them.And again, these are 14-millimeter. Now, you have three threaded holes up here at the top, once we put the strut back in, we're gonna take this fresh hardware from the kit. There's a set of three bolts for each strut with a lock washer and a flat washer. And once we get the strut up in there, we'll line these up and thread these through down from the top and cinch them down. You're gonna need a 16-millimeter socket for these. All right, guys. Now we're gonna lift our strut up into place. Basically, what this does is gonna orient it around 180 degrees, so it should fit in nicely. You can slide it in top first. And we'll get these bolts up top started by hand. I might have to play with it a little bit and it's tough if you can't see what you're doing and you're just doing it by feel. Once you get those two lined up, you can put the third one back. We're gonna leave those somewhat loose for now while we go ahead and reattach the lower end of our strut.All right, guys, if you're leaning tight here with this shot, you can kind of see our strut is not really lined up here. So I'm grabbing a pry bar and I'm gonna stick it underneath between the lower control arm and the bottom of the strut, and I'm gonna kinda work it up in there. That should get us the alignment we need. And we're gonna insert the bolts from the other side. Just like that. All right. We're gonna go ahead and put our nut back on there and a washer. And again, 19-millimeter socket and a 19-millimeter crescent to tighten these up. All right, guys, I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench for these bolts here. Before I tighten that down too far, I'm gonna try and even it up on this other side here. All right, guys, now at this step, because we added an inch and a half of space to our strut, it's pushing down that lower control arm to the point where you're not gonna very easily with just your arms be able to line the spindle back up to the upper ball joint. So what I did is I dropped our truck down. This might be a little easier for you to be quite honest with you at home. If you've already got your truck on jack stands, get your floor jack underneath your lower control arm and lift it up good, maybe 2 inches or so. And then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get my pry bar in up here above the upper control arm and line the spindle up, and then pull the pry bar down just so we can get some threads through this to get our nuts started. And then we'll let the tool do the work from there.You see it got some threads showing through there, go ahead and grab your nut, and we'll get that started. And let the power tool do the tough work from there. Like we did when we were taking this apart, I'm using a swivel socket and a 19-millimeter socket to cinch this down. And you're gonna wanna make sure it lines up so you can get your cotter pin through. All right. So, we're gonna reconnect our sway bar end link here. We had the nut threaded on there so we didn't lose it. And we're gonna cinch it up using a 17-millimeter socket. All right. Now, we're gonna reconnect our tie rod end. Since it's gonna be a little snug, we can get our castle nut back on there. This is a 19-millimeter socket you're gonna use it to tighten this up. And then don't forget as we tighten this up, we're gonna need to line it up so we can get a cotter pin through. Go ahead and grab your cotter pin and get it back in there.All right. Last couple of steps here at this corner of the truck is we're gonna reconnect these two brackets that we took off earlier in the install. Let's get that little guide pin in there for this one and grab the bolt that is a 12-millimeter for this. And this one we still had seated in up top. This is a 10-millimeter up top. All right, guys, now all the steps I just demonstrated here on the driver side front quarter, you can go ahead and repeat that on the other side. The steps are all the same. You're gonna have the same brackets and same things to disconnect. And then we're gonna head to the back of the truck and get our lifting or our leveling blocks inserted in the back. All right. Now we're at the rear of our truck, and again, we have it up on a lift to give you a better view of what we're doing. If you're doing this at home, make sure you have jack stands again under the frame of your truck. And you're gonna wanna probably position your floor jack underneath the center of your rear differential. That'll allow you to raise it up and down as needed as we go through the installation process for these leveling blocks.So, the first step we're gonna do back here is we're gonna take out the bolt here that secures the bottom of the shock to this bracket right here. We're gonna use 17-millimeter wrench and a 17-millimeter socket to do that. All right. Now, we have four ends here for our two U-bolts that have 19-millimeter nuts on them. We're gonna take these nuts off and then we're gonna be able to take the old factory U-bolts out. At this point, you have to have your axle supported. I have these pole jacks right here. So, once we get this freed up, we'll be able to lower the axle just enough to get our new spacer blocks in between the leaf spring and the kind of pedestal there where the block is gonna sit.Now, as you can see, this bracket here came loose. So obviously, you're gonna wanna support this when you take out the last nut. All right. Now, we're gonna lower this side here. Now, if you're at this point already, guys, you're gonna notice it's obvious that you're gonna wanna put the block in with the hole up top because it's gonna fit on this little post right there. And then, the post that's part of the block itself is gonna drop into a hole on this shelf. The other thing you need to be aware of is that one side or one end of the block is shorter than the other. You're gonna want the shorter end of the block towards the front of the truck. That's gonna correct the pinion angle for your rear axle and that's the proper orientation. So, go ahead and slide it in. And once that's seated, we're gonna slowly raise the axle back up so that the pin on the bottom side of the leaf spring is gonna fit into place on the block. All right, guys, we have the axle loose from the other leaf spring so we're gonna be able to manipulate it a little bit here, and what we're looking for is a nice satisfying drop into place. Like that. And continue to raise your axle up. Kind of squared off. All right. Now, take the new U-bolts from the kit and drop them into place. And make sure they're aligned up with the bracket that's on top of the leaf spring.Now we're gonna take our factory bracket and slide it back up on there and put the nuts on. It might be a little snug. If you can tell I'm kind of squeezing the U-bolt because the U-bolt will kinda want to spread, which makes it hard to get this bracket on there. So, just a little squeeze from your hand.One thing you want to pay attention to as you're cinching this bracket up is that you're doing it evenly so that it's sitting nice and snug and you have a nice even fitment as it mates up with the axle. So, that's nice and level, now we're gonna put our nut on. The other thing I wanna call out as I'm doing this guys is these are much beefier bolts and nuts. I'm tightening up or I'm tightening these bolts up as much as I can by hand right now. It might seem like a lot of effort, but if you put in a power tool here and you cinch it up, it might cause the bracket kind of tilt one way and then you're gonna have an uneven fitment here and it's gonna be uneven connecting with the axle. So, I'm doing this by hand right now, like I said, to keep everything nice and even. And then we'll tighten it down with the power tool.All right. This last one, the threading is a little tight, so I'm gonna do that with my power tool, but the other three, I did cinch up by hand, so we should have no problem, we can have a nice, tight fitment. Like I said, the hardware that comes with this kit guys is a lot thicker and more sturdy. These nuts that we're tightening up here require a 22-millimeter socket, and if you remember the factory stuff required 19s. So we are dealing with beefier components. And just like you do when you're putting wheels and tires on your vehicle, go in across pattern. Don't do it all on one side. All right. Now go ahead and repeat these same steps on the passenger side of the truck. All right. Now that we have our U-bolts and lift blocks all cinched down and in place, go ahead and lift your axle back up so we can line up the lower end of our shock and thread this bolt back through. Again, we're reusing our factory hardware for this obviously. And again, we're using a 17-millimeter crescent and a 17-millimeter socket to tighten this up.All right, guys, that wraps up this installation, make sure you do the same steps we did over here on the passenger side. And that does it for my review and install of this Mammoth 3-Inch Front and 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, for all 2005 and later Toyota Tacomas. For all things Tacoma, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Lifts and Eliminates Rake. A Mammoth 4x4 Leveling Kit will raise the front of your 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma by 3.0-inches and the rear by 2.0-inches to eliminate the factory rake. This Mammoth 4x4 Kit will not only level your Tacoma, but it will also help to increase ground clearance as well.
Quality Construction. The included Mammoth 4x4 Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth 4x4 then completes their Strut Spacers in a durable black anodized finish for good looks and long lasting corrosion resistance. The included Mammoth 4x4 Lift Blocks are fabricated from steel for strength and are then completed in a durable black powder coated finish.
Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth 4x4 designed their Front / Rear Leveling Kit to be a straight forward bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 4 hours time.
Application. This Mammoth 4x4 3.0-inch Front / 2.0-inch Rear Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma 6-Lug models.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
