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Mammoth 2-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Shocks (18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL)

Item J134225-JL
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey guys, I'm Eric with ExtremeTerrain. Today, we're checking out the Mammoth 2-Inch Suspension Lift with Shocks for all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. Now, you should really be checking this kit out if you want to easily tackle some moderate off-roading, as well as fit some larger tires on your Jeep. This Jeep rolled in here on 255 70 all-terrain tires, and that basically equates to a 32-inch tire. And we were very easily able to step it up to 33-inch tires. And right now as it sits next to me, it has 35s on it. And actually, when we turned the 35s in the wheel wells, we didn't get any rubbing whatsoever. Now, if you have like a sport model Jeep that has the additional trim piece that's between the bumper and the fender, you might get a little rubbing in there, but if you remove that, you shouldn't have any problems at all.Now, a moment ago, I mentioned moderate offroading. And why did I say moderate offroading as opposed to more extreme offroading? Well, remember, this is only a 2-inch lift. It's not a more extreme lift, so you're not getting a whole lot more room for articulating your suspension. And if you are gonna test the limits of this lift kit, I would actually recommend maybe a 33-inch tire or maybe something slightly larger.I don't know that I would go all the way to the 35s that we have on the Jeep right now. If you are gonna be flexing that suspension on some ruts, some uneven trails, what have you, these tires might rub up in inside the wheel wells, maybe cause some uncomfortable bouncing when it hits the bump stops as well. But if you're only gonna do some light to moderate offroading or mainly on-road driving with 35s, I don't think you'll have any problem whatsoever actually.Now, this is a fairly inclusive kit. Not only do you get springs and new shocks, both front and rear, you have bumps stops on front and rear also that are gonna prevent your tires from impacting inside the wheel wells. And those springs are quite a bit longer than your factory springs. And that's where all that additional ride height is coming from. It might make it a little bit more challenging during the installation phase but you are gonna notice a drastic improvement in ride quality as well as that additional height that you're looking for.Also included in this kit, which is something that's fairly common for lift kits are the longer sway bar end links. They are nice quality fittings on those and it'll accommodate your sway bar just fine. The other nice thing about this kit is it includes lower control arms with greaseable Heim joints. And that is basically the rotating articulating joint that's gonna mount up to the frame end of the lower control arm in the front of the Jeep.It's a nice beefy quality component there. And that's gonna be able to allow your suspension to articulate just a little bit more without any harshness in the action as you're going down the trails. The other nice feature about these lower control arms in the front is that they are adjustable and that's gonna help make sure that you have proper angles with your suspension and with your axle.So we do recommend that once you get this installed, you do take it for a professional alignment. That is one of the things that a professional alignment shop is going to adjust and check to make sure that pinion angles and all that with your axle are proper. You're not gonna have any funny handling scenarios when you're out on the road. Now, as you'll see a little bit later in this video when we do our side-by-side comparison when we take our factory components off, and I'm gonna put them up on the table and show you side-by-side the factory shock versus your new Mammoth shock. You're gonna notice a really big difference between the new Mammoth shocks and old factory ones. These new units are quite a bit beefier and I'm talking about all the way around as far as the oil reservoir is quite a bit beefier and it's holding a lot more oil in there and that's gonna provide better heat dissipation and better resistance as you go down the road.These shocks aren't gonna fade if you put them to heavy use. Your factory units are gonna fade a lot sooner. The other way they're also a lot beefier is in the piston rod. These have hardened chrome piston rods that are thicker in diameter than your factory shocks. Again, altogether looking at it as a package, you're gonna take a lot more abuse than your factory units.For this fairly comprehensive kick, guys, the price right now is right around $1,300. That's pretty competitive considering all the components that we're replacing here and all the added functionality and capability that you're gonna be giving to your Jeep. Now, as far as the installation goes, it's a very solid two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Give yourself about six hours time at least to get this installed. And I don't know whether I'd recommend this for a novice or a beginner. This is a bit of a challenging install.And the biggest challenge was actually in the rear end area where we had to droop the axle quite a bit to get those longer springs into place. Now, if you can't accommodate that with the equipment you have at home, the jack stands and a floor jack, you might wanna think twice about trying to start this job at home and maybe take it to a shop instead. All right, guys. So enough of me talking, let's take a look at the tools we're gonna use and go ahead with the installation.All right, guys. Tools you're gonna see in this installation include both an electric and pneumatic impact gun, a pneumatic ratcheting wrench, a hand socket wrench, 10, 18, and 19-millimeter crescent wrenches, a swivel socket, 8, 10, 18, 19, 21, and 24-millimeter sockets, 6-millimeter Allen key socket, pair of vice grips, trim removal tool, pair of extensions, a pry bar, an adjustable crescent wrench, and a pair of pliers.All right, guys. Now we're about to get started. At this point of the install, if you're doing this at home, you're gonna be using jack stands and a floor jack most likely. You need to make sure that your Jeep is safely supported with good sturdy jack stands and the floor jack, you're gonna wanna position underneath the differential to raise and lower the axle as needed. Because eventually, we're gonna disconnect a few things, group the axle so we can get the springs out. And also this kid includes lower control arms as well. So we're gonna be replacing those.So just make sure your Jeep is good and solidly supported before you get underneath it for safety's sake. So let's go ahead and get started. All right, guys. First, we're gonna take out the lower bolt here for our driver's side sway bar end link using 18-millimeter tool on both sides here. And we're gonna repeat this on the other side so we can droop the sway bar to get the top one out.All right. Once you've taken off the bottom bolt on the other side, you can pull your sway bar down and give us some more room to work here. Again, this is the 18-millimeter. And if your bolt starts to spin inside there, we're gonna have to figure out a different way to use a wrench and an Allen key but we're gonna try it like this and see if we can get it off. Go ahead and repeat that on the other side.All right, guys. We're up here at the top of the front driver's side shock and you're gonna need 18-millimeter socket to get this out. It isn't captured on the backside, so you don't have to worry about a tool on the other side and get it kind of wedged up in there. You should be able to do this without having to cut away your wheel well liner. All right, guys. Now, if it's a little stubborn coming out, go ahead and grab the open end of your wrench here. Put it up there and then pull outward as you are backing the bolt out.All right, guys. Now we're gonna do the bottom bolt here, 18-millimeter tools on both sides. You're gonna need a socket over here and a wrench in here and just be aware that when this bolt comes out, there's nothing holding your shock up. So kind of push in on the bolt and take the nut off first, then you can use your other hand to grab the shock. And this might be obvious, guys. I just wanna make sure I mentioned it, is at this point, make sure your axle is adequately supported.We obviously have some pole jacks in here because we're using a lift today. So if you have jack stands underneath your frame, go ahead and get your floor jack underneath your axle at this time. Now, next we're gonna remove this bracket here that helps secure the brake lines to the lower control arm. And you're gonna need a 15-millimeter socket to undo this nut right here. All right, guys. Now we're gonna go after this bolt right here. You're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket for this. And once we do that, this bracket will come loose. And then just to give us more slack here as we droop the axle, we're not gonna put any tension on our brake lines. That's why we're doing that.All right, guys. Now, everything we've done up to this point, you can repeat on the passenger's side as well. And now we're gonna disconnect the breather tube here on the top of the differential. Just a pinch pin right here.All right, guys. Now, if your Jeep is equipped with the lacking differential setup here, we're gonna have to disconnect this wiring harness as well as the lock pins that are kind of holding the wire to the upper part of that switch unit. And then there's another one up here attaching it to the bracket where the upper control arm meets the axle. So first off, let's get this. Pry that lock pin back so you can now pinch it and then pull back.And up here, you can use a longer flathead screwdriver or a trim removal tool like the one I have if you have one. It comes out just like that. There's another one up top here. That way this wire is not at all connected to our axle. So when we droop it, we don't have to worry about putting any stress or tension on it. All right, guys. Now we're gonna take our track bar bolt out here. You're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket for that.All right. Now with the track bar disconnected, we are gonna start drooping the axles so we can get our factory springs out. All right, guys. Now we've drooped the axle, we should be able to get our spring out. And we'll get our passenger side one out as well.All right, guys. Now that we have our factory sway bar end links and springs off of the Jeep, I wanted to show you real quick up here in the table a quick side-by-side comparison with our new springs and sway bar end links. Now, obviously, not a whole lot to point out here, springs versus springs, except obvious length. This is where all our additional right height is gonna be coming from with our new spring from Mammoth and down here, longer swaybar end links. One design difference I wanna point out with those is that for cinching up the top portion there, instead of having a nut on like a bolt inside there that has a hex key inside the bolt, in case that starts spinning, you're gonna need to secure those with two tools like that to wrench it down.Sometimes it gets a little bit awkward. This new sway bar end link actually just has a bolt going through here. So you can put a tool on this side while you're cinching down the nut on here. And it's a nylon locknut here. It's gonna keep that nice and secure for you. Otherwise, it's pretty much a standard comparison, beefy components here for Mammoth but really what we're looking at here is the additional length for that right height. So let's go ahead and get them installed.All right, guys. Now droop the axle as far as you can, you should be able to get it down far enough, not have to do anything else. If for whatever reason you droop it and you line your spring up in here and you can't get the spring in, you've got two options. You can compress your spring, or you can remove the skid plates and reinforcement bar that's underneath the driveshaft because it's probably your driveshaft coming down on top of that up there. And that'll give you a little bit more room to drop even lower but we should have enough room here.Get it started up top. Now, make sure you have your new bump stop extension that's included in the kit inside the spring already. You won't be able to get it through the coils once we get it up on there. And make sure that your isolator up top here is seated properly. And on the other side, make sure that the end of the coil is wrapping around into the stop of the isolator on the bottom of the spring. We're gonna grab a flange nut out of the new Mammoth kit here and feed it up underneath and get it threaded on.Get it started. Now you're gonna need to get a wrench up in here to secure that nut. And you're gonna need a 6-millimeter Allen key socket or an Allen key itself to go down through the hole here. That's an Allen bolt on the inside there. I have a handy tool here from using other lift kits that can help me get up underneath there. Can either try a wrench or if you have a ratcheting wrench that has a foldable end to get up in there.All right, guys. Now, of course, go ahead and install your passenger side spring and bump stopover on the other side as well. So now we're gonna work on our lower control arms. You're gonna need a 21-mill socket here on the bolt side. If you are using a specific tool on the other side, on the nut, you're gonna need 24-millimeter over there but I'm using an adjustable crescent wrench. All right. Now, we left the bolt in up top there just to have something to hold it up and same size tools down here on the bottom end.All right, guys. Now we've just got lower control arm off the Jeep, we wanna throw up here on the table real quick and give you a nice side-by-side comparison with the new control arm from Mammoth. Now, obviously, there's a pretty huge difference here, and that is the fact that your Mammoth lower control arm is adjustable and basically up here, it's threaded and just by spinning it out like that, you're lengthening the control arm.The reason why that's important is because with a lift kit, with the droop from the axle, and you have more separation between the body of the Jeep and the axle of your Jeep because of the geometry and the way it bends down, it's actually gonna cause the center of your wheels and tires to be off-center a little bit and tuck in a little bit closer to the rear part of the wheel well on your Jeep. And that's just the way the geometry works.And to account for that, you have this control arm here that you can lengthen out and will kind of push that offset back so to help keep your wheels and tire centered within the wheel well. And so when you have up and down travel, it is gonna lower the chance that it's gonna rub or come in contact with anything, especially if you upsize your tires as well, which is one of the main things that people do with their lift kits.So basically you would spin this out and then you have this nut here that spins back down and will lock it in place. Now, according to the manufacturer, they tell us that what they recommend you do is you take your factory lower control arm. And we're gonna take a measurement here from the center of where the bolt goes through on one end to the center of where the bolt goes through on the other end. Get that measurement, whatever that distance is, we are going to duplicate that with the lower control arm.Now, you're probably asking yourself, "Why are we doing that? You just said the whole reason we need these is to be longer." Well, they tell you to set it that way because we also recommend that you take your Jeep in for a professional alignment after you have a lift kit installed. You wanna make sure that everything's properly aligned both laterally as well as making sure your steering is properly aligned as well.We always recommend that after you do a lift kit and that's for safe handling of your vehicle and it's also to keep the long life of your tires so you don't have anything rubbing incorrectly there and kind of prematurely wearing out your tires. The other nice thing about these lower control arms is this fitting here is greaseable. It has a fitting right here, so that will also keep longer life with the fittings here and it's just a beefier... If you compare them side-by-side, they're just beefier fittings, and it's gonna be a lot more rugged and durable if you're out there pounding on the trails as well. Other than that, just line it up. This brass-colored end here goes up to the body and this will be down by our axle. If you notice the slight bend here, we're matching it up to the one that we just removed from the driver's side. So you have that little post there and that's where you're gonna reattach the bracket that secures the brake lines.So basically line up and that's how you know which lower control arm goes on which side. So let's go ahead and get it installed. All right, guys. Now we're gonna start a bolt here up top. Once you figure out how far out you need to undo this end, so your grease fitting is gonna be facing down so you can access it. If you have it up top, you probably won't be able to access it because of the shape of the bracket. Just something to keep in mind.All right. And we're gonna bring the bottom up. You might have to wiggle your axle a little bit to get it in. And we're gonna start these nuts and bolts here. And we're gonna tighten them down a little bit but we don't wanna fully tighten them until the vehicle is down on its own weight. All right, guys, like I said, we're gonna snug these up but not tighten fully. There are torque specs and all this is gonna need to be torqued to those specs that come in the instruction booklet from Mammoth.Then go ahead and repeat this and install your lower control arm on the passenger side. All right, guys. With our factory shock off the Jeep, I want to throw it up here on the table and give you a comparison side-by-side with our new shock absorber from Mammoth. Now, obviously, the body is much larger. You're gonna have a lot more fluid in there that's gonna really assist in provide better dampening with lot harder work out there in the trails.As you're exercising your Jeep suspension with a lot of travel up and down, as you go over uneven terrain or obstacles, that puts a lot of stress on your shock absorbers and they start building up heat. Now, the more shock oil you have in there, the longer it's gonna take for that to get heated up. And the other thing about this is the construction of these. This is an aluminum-bodied shock. So it's gonna dissipate that heat faster than the steel-bodied shocks that come as part of the base kit on your Jeep from the factory.The other thing you're gonna notice too is the shaft here coming down to the other end is a lot beefier than what you get in your factory shock. So it's gonna take a lot more punishment as well. And overall, it's just kind of an attractive unit. We're gonna go ahead and get it mounted up in the Jeep. The one thing you're gonna notice if you're looking at the set of four that comes with this kit, the way you can tell the difference between the front and the rear is that the two-shot for the front have an equal size bushing or metal sleeve up here up top, and it's gonna be even on both sides.There's a little bit more of an offset with the shocks that go on the rear, and we'll talk more about that a little bit later. I just wanted to point that out because you need to know which ones go on the front at this point of the install. Like I said, the shocks on the rear, this metal sleeve up here is gonna be offset more. Those are for the back end. So go ahead and grab these and let's get them installed. All, right guys. We trim just a little bit of our wheel well liner back to make it a little bit easier.Go ahead and lift your shock up into place using the factory bolt and we're gonna tighten it down with an 18-millimeter socket. All right, guys. Now we're gonna raise our axle back up so we can get our shock lined up. Right now, we're gonna tighten this bolt up. Again, it's an 18-millimeter tool on both sides. Now, go ahead and grab the factory bolt. We're gonna resecure this bracket here. It's holding our brake lines. And I'm cinching it down right now just by hand. It's a little tight working in here using a 10-millimeter socket.Once we get it snugged up, I'll see if I can get my wrench in here and we'll tighten it down. All right, guys. Now we're gonna reattach our factory bracket here using the factory hardware. And use a 15-millimeter socket to tighten it down. And you can repeat that on the other side as well. All right, guys. Now we're gonna put in our new Mammoth sway bar end links. We're gonna use the shorter ones on the front, the longer ones are for the back.We're gonna use the new bolt, flat washer, and locknut up top. And it's a locknut, so you're only gonna be able to get it on so far by hand and we're gonna use our factory bolt down below. You can get this started on the other side and then we'll grab some tools and we'll tighten them down. All right, guys. Now, to tighten up the hardware that's supplied in the kit on the bolt side, it's 18-millimeter but for the locknut, you're gonna need a 19-millimeter socket for that side.And to tighten up our factory stuff, again, it's 18-millimeter tools on both sides for this one. At this point, guys, go ahead and reattach the sway bar end link on the other side. And for us, we are working on a lift here. So we're not going to tighten down the bolts for the lower control arm or at both ends of the shock or the track bar.Now, if you're doing this at home and you're lifting one end at a time, go ahead and put your wheels and tires back on and lower your Jeep to the ground. Once it's on its own weight, then you can tighten up those fittings and reattach the wiring harness for your diff lock. So, all that has to be done while it's down on its own weight. We can't really do it right now because it's too extended and there's not enough slack in the line. And I don't want to remove all the extra locking pins and that is gonna create too much slack.So we're gonna wait till our Jeep is back under its own way to do that. You can do that now if you're lowering this end and raising up the rear end. So for the purpose of the video, however, we are done here at the front and we're gonna move to the back. All right. Now, once you have your Jeep lifted and supported safely with jack stands, and again, using your floor jack underneath your differential, we're gonna go ahead and get started.First off, we're gonna work on our end links here, get those removed, and then we'll go from there. All right. For the bottom of the end link here, we're gonna have 18-millimeter tools on both sides. Then repeat that on the other side and then we'll go after the top. All right. Again, you're gonna need 18-millimeter socket up top here. If you have a newer Jeep like we have that we're working on today, lower mileage, things might be a little stiffer. You can just use a socket on here.If these are a little bit more worn out, higher mileage Jeep you're working on, you're probably gonna need an open-ended wrench like this and an Allen socket in there. But we're gonna give this a try to see if it works. All right, guys. Repeat those steps and remove the end link on the passenger side. Now we're gonna remove this cover here so we can access the top bolt for our shock absorber. You're gonna need an 8-millimeter socket for these three bolts right here.All right, guys. At this point, we moved our pole jacks into place. We have our axle supported. Now we're going to remove our shock absorbers up top here. You're gonna need 18-mill socket. All right. Leaving the bolt up top there just to hold the shock up, we're gonna undo the bottom one here. 18-millimeters tool on both sides. All right, guys. Now, what you're gonna have to do next is set your parking brake.And what that does is it pulls this parking brake cable this way, and it pulls this little pin right here inbound or inward towards the center of your vehicle. With the parking brake set then, get a clamp or a vice grip like we have here and pinch down on this little pin right here, and that's gonna hold it and prevent it from sliding back in. It's spring-loaded in there. So with the parking brake set, clamp that down and then release the parking brake.And what that's gonna do is it's gonna give you slack on your cable right here so you can pull this out. Now with this out, I'll show you what we're gonna do next. All right. Next, there's this clip right here that has these prongs that stick out and prevent the cable from sliding back through this bracket. What you need to do is pinch those little prongs down. What I'm doing with my left hand here is I'm pulling and keeping tension on the cable. Let me pull that out like that.What that's gonna do is prevent this cable from binding up and preventing our axle from dropping as far as we need it to, to get the spring up. Go ahead and do that on the other side. All right, guys. Now, using a 21-millimeter socket, we are going to take out the bolt here that connects our track bar to the axle. And it has a flag nut on the backside. All right, guys. Now go ahead and remove your springs.All right, guys. Now we have the rear spring shock and sway bar end link removed from the Jeep. Again, little side-by-side comparison, pretty much the comparison's gonna be what I described on the front end as well. You got this beefier shock here from Mammoth with the aluminum body. It's gonna dissipate heat better. We're talking about a longer spring and longer sway bar end link. The only added component we're gonna have on the rear end is this bump stop block that's gonna sit up on top of the pedestal that's on top of the axle as it is.We're gonna bolt that down. It's pretty simple. Probably the easiest part of the installation. It's pretty much that's what you have. The comparison like we did on the front end, it's pretty much the same. You got beefier, better quality components going in on the rear end just like you did on the front end. So let's go ahead and continue. All right, guys. Now we gotta reinstall our brand new spring. And just be mindful that you gotta coil all the way up into the perch up top and properly seated on the bottom as well.You can see where the coil ends there, guys. You now want to kind of twist it around so that it meets up with that little notch in your rubber isolator. And then go ahead and repeat this on the other side. All right, guys. Grab one of the spacer blocks out of your kit and set up here in the pedestal. Using the bolts and nuts from the kit, get started. All right, guys. Now, on the bolt, you need a 10-millimeter wrench, and for the nut, you need a 13-millimeter or half-inch would also work. Repeat that on the other side.All right, guys. Now we have our bump stop spacer blocks installed. Next thing we need to do is get our shocks put in place and also put in our new sway bar end links. Now, as I was trying to compress the axle up, compress the springs a little bit with our pole jacks, I was noticing that the more I tried to do that, we started getting to the point where we were starting to get the Jeep up off of our lift, which is not a safe condition.And you might experience that too if you were trying to raise your axle with your floor jack, and you might end up lifting your Jeep up off of the jack stands, which means your springs aren't really compressing too much more. So what we're gonna do in order to compress it enough so that we can get both points of attachment bolted up for our shocks and for our sway bar end links is we're gonna lower the Jeep down onto its own weight, get the tires back on, and that should hopefully compress our springs enough that we can get these into place.So to get started, I'm gonna get the top bolt going for our shocks so that that's already mounted as we gently bring it down and hopefully compress it up enough that we can line up the lower bolt hole with the bracket here and get the bottom bolt started for the shocks. So let's go ahead. All right, guys. Just remember with these rear shocks here with this little bit of space needs to go to the inside. Get that started. Give it a few turns with our impact here but we don't want to tighten it up too much.That's good. It's nice and up there. Nice and solid but we can still move it as we need to. As you can see here, we have a few inches to make up. So hopefully when we get it down on its own weight and compress this up a little bit, we can line up this with this. So go ahead and get your other shock started as well. All right, guys. Now we're back down on the ground here. If you're obviously working on jack stands and with a floor jack, you're a lot closer to the ground than we were on our lift.But now that we're down on the ground, we're able to gently get the lift into position. And as you can see under its own weight, the springs compress more and we can get a bolt in here. Now, with that started, down here, that's gonna help keep the axle up. We'll put it back up in the air so we can do our sway bar end links up in the air. So let's go ahead and bolt up the other side.All right. Now get your sway bar end link in here. Have the new bolt, flat washer, and nylon locknut up top here. Then get the other one started as well and then we'll do the bottom bolt. All right, guys. Now we're gonna tighten up the top bolt here. You're gonna need a 19-millimeter for this brand new nylon locknut here and just an 18 on the bolt side. Now, to the bottom here, we're using factory hardware. So it's 18-millimeter tools on both sides. And then repeat over on the passenger side.Now we've tightened up the bottom bolt here for our shock, 18-millimeter tools on both sides. Tighten up the top bolt, again, 18-millimeter tool, and I got a swivel socket here because of this pinch weld here. Then repeat for the shock on the other side. All right, guys. Now get your track bar back up here lined up and your factory bolt back through here and your flag nut on the backside. Now, this might be a little tricky because of the lift and the geometry change.It might not line up perfectly. If that's the case for you, get a pry bar or a long breaker bar, something with some leverage, put it up here, up in the inside of the frame rail and up against the side of the bracket, and pull to the right on that as you are pushing the bolt. And if you kind of do that simultaneously, it'll be just enough to get the bolt through. So once you have that bolt in there, go ahead and tighten it down. Make sure the flag nut is attached on the backside. And again, we're using a 21-millimeter on this bolt.And then before you call it done, make sure you're tightening this and the other bolts we've been working on to spec. All right, guys. Now replace the cover here that we removed to access our shock absorber. Again, we're using an 8-millimeter socket to tighten up these little trim bolts. Go ahead and repeat this on the other side. All right, guys. Now, we're underneath the truck and we're looking at the track bar where it connects to the axle.I have the original track bar bolt here, and I have a friend in the driver's seat who when I tell him to go is going to start turning the wheel. And as he does that, that'll hopefully help line up the track bar with the bracket here and we can get the bolt in. So go ahead. All right, guys. Now we have the bolt in there. I'm holding the flag nut with my left hand on the backside. I'm just gonna give this bolt a couple turns to get it started.Now we have it started, grab your 21-millimeter socket, and we're gonna tighten this up. Once you have that good and tight, then don't forget you're gonna have to torque this down to the spec according to your owner's manual. And on our front axle here, guys, don't forget to reconnect the wiring harness for your locking differential if your Jeep is equipped with it. And plug that in so it clicks and then push in the lock tab. All right, guys. Now, don't forget to reconnect your front axle breather tube.All right, guys. Just a couple of quick cleanup items now that we're done, make sure that you torque all the fittings that you touched as part of this install to specifications provided by the manufacturer. I also recommend that after a couple 100 miles of driving your Jeep with your new lift kit on it, that you recheck all the fittings and make sure nothing has come loose. And we also recommend getting a professional alignment done any time that you've had any suspension or steering work done to your vehicle.So that pretty much wraps up this review and install of this Mammoth 2-Inch Suspension Lift with Shocks fitting all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. And, of course, for all things, Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Two Inch Suspension Lift Kit
      • Increases Ground Clearance
      • Mono Tube Shocks - Non-adjustable
      • Linear Rate Coil Springs
      • Tubular Lower Control Arms with Heim Joints
      • Sway Bar End Links with Poly Urethane Bushings
      • Direct Bolt-on Installation
      • Fits 2018-2022 Jeep Wrangler JL Models

      Description

      Go Off-Road. Going off-road can be tough for your JL Wrangler’s stock suspension, that's why you need a lift kit that was specifically designed to take on the great outdoors. Luckily, this Mammoth 2-Inch Suspension Lift Kit has what you need to help you take on the obstacles found on and off-road. With 2 inches of lift, this kit can accommodate tires up to 34-inches in size. This Mammoth Kit features tubular lower control arms as well as linear coil springs, bump stops and sway bar end links. What’s more, the included monotube shock absorbers will provide a highly comfortable ride, even when tested across rough terrain.

      Monotube Shocks. Manufactured using a gas pressurized mono tube design, the included Mammoth Shock Absorbers feature a mirror-finished, hard-chrome OE style piston rod that provides superior corrosion resistance and leak free sealing. While the combination of premium Eneos Oil and Freudenberg NOK seals ensures a great seal, long-life and consistent dampening over a wide range of temperature conditions to maintain dampening and rebound. Mammoth Monotube Shocks feature an outer steel housing that is completed in durable black finish for impressive good looks.

      Coil Springs. The front and rear coil springs included in this Mammoth 4x4 2-inch Suspension Lift Kit have been engineered to work perfectly in conjunction with the other components of the kit. These springs will not only aid in lifting your Wrangler for increased clearance, but they will also help to provide a smooth comfortable ride. These linear coil springs feature a spring rate of 125 pounds front and 175 pounds rear.

      Tubular Lower Control Arms. Mammoth 4x4 includes a set replacement lower control arms in their 2-inch Suspension Lift Kit. These control arms feature a tubular steel design for light weight and superior strength. A new set of greaseable Heim joints are included for greater range of motion.

      Bump Stops. The Front Bump Stop Blocks included in this Mammoth 4x4 Kit are machined from aluminum for superior strength and extra rigidity. Where the Rear Bump Stop Extensions have been fabricated from high grade steel. The both components are then completed in a durable black finish for long lasting corrosion resistance, regardless of the elements they are exposed to.

      Sway Bar End Links. The included front and rear Sway Bar End Links were designed to work with the new lifted ride height of this Kit. Manufactured from steel these, Sway Bar End Links feature high-density polyurethane bushings which are much more durable than the original stock rubber units to provide years of trouble free driving. Short end links are for the front. Long end links are for the rear.

      Installation. Mammoth 4x4 engineered their Lift Kit to be installed with no welding or cutting needed, making it a bolt-on kit. However, professional installation is recommended. With all the necessary hardware included, this Lift kit can be installed in about 6 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 4x4 2-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Shocks is designed to fit 2018-2022 Jeep Wrangler JL models.

      Fitment:

      Mammoth J134225-JL

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Shocks
      • (2) Front Springs
      • (2) Rear Shocks
      • (2) Rear Springs
      • (2) Front Sway Bar End Links (Short)
      • (2) Rear Sway Bar End Links (Long)
      • (2) Lower Control Arms
      • (2) Front Bump Stop Blocks
      • (2) Rear Bump Stop Extensions
      • (4) M8x1.25 30mm Flange Bolts
      • (6) M8x1.25 Flanged Nuts
      • (4) M12x1.25 70mm Hex Bolts
      • (8) M12 Flat Washers
      • (4) M12 Nylon Lock Nuts
      4.5

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