(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Justin: If your '07 to '18 JK has been suffering from excessive wind noise or water leaks through the hardtop or freedom panels, well, then it's time to start looking into replacing some of those old and worn-out factory seals. Now the 17-piece kit that we have here today will include all of the necessary foam seals for your JK's freedom panels or hardtop and can be had for right around 20 to 30 bucks.So, this very popular kit is a simple and affordable fix for the all-too-common issue of your freedom panels starting to show their age, more specifically the seals and basically allowing a bunch of rain or moisture inside your Jeep. Now the kit itself is designed to replace all of the key seals in your JK's hardtop just to help ensure things remain bone dry. Now the kit itself will feature a 17-piece foam design with the included adhesive backing already located on the back of each piece which will make for a very easy installation. Now it is recommended, guys, that you remove those old seals first prior to the install rather than stacking the new ones on top of the old ones because ultimately, too much thickness can lead to large gaps in your freedom panels. That can cause excess wind noise or even, in some cases, make those leaks even worse.But this is a great time to segue into the installation and site's gonna call this a pretty soft one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter and about an hour or so to get all 17 pieces in place. Now to give you a better idea of just how and where each piece goes, feel free to check out our detailed walkthrough from an XT customer now.Man: All right. For the install, you can use either denatured alcohol or a Goo Gone to break down the adhesive from the existing foam seals. We've got microfiber rags, paper towels and if things get super hairy, I guess we'll use a fresh razor blade to get the adhesive broken loose and scraped so we can get the new seals installed.All right. We're here in our 2016 Jeep Unlimited, the four-door. We're gonna be replacing the foam seals with the blocker kit from Extreme Terrain. We'll see that part in a minute. First thing you wanna do to complete this install is to get the freedom panels off your Jeep, take them into somewhere where you're able to work on them and we'll get going from there once we get these off. This Jeep of ours, we have a sunshade. This is usually up here over the opening for when the roof's off. I dropped it so we can see the toggles. I already released most of the distance of the screws here. I usually start with those. I just drop them in my cupholder here. We've got one for each panel. And stow those and get the sunshade out of here which is making a mess.From there, we've got all the toggles and the cam locks on the front of the windshield. So, if I turn the camera here, you can see the passenger side. We've got a toggle here. We've got one in the middle back by the soundbar, rollbar. Turn over this way so that you can see both. That's the visor that you'll need to move. We've got a toggle here. And that other toggle, I'm gonna have to show from this angle. We've got an overhead switch console. So, we've gotta reach in there and get that. And we've got driver-side cam lock and passenger side. From there, we're gonna go outside and lift the panels off, driver side first because it overlaps the passenger side. We'll take them in and get them set up on the kitchen counter with some good light and go for the rest of it.After looking at the Extreme Terrain website instructions for install and crosschecking that information with the actual roof panels from our 2016 Wrangler, it looks like these three pieces here which is actually a total of five because the bags each have two don't look like they have a home on our exact Jeep. So, I'm kinda setting those off to the side. What we do have are some pieces that are almost an inch and a quarter by, like, three inches long. Four of those are in there. We've got these pieces which there are lefts and rights of and they have very specific geometry that tells them a little more apart from these other rectangular strips. And you've got some slightly longer pieces that are still that almost inch and a quarter wide by about three and three quarters. Then we have these skinnier ones down here that are a little over three quarters by about three and three quarters. So, try and use that to reference as we go around the panels to make sure that the right strips go in the right place as you work to complete your install.Right, so start here on the driver side panel, this is where the door would close at your B pillar. The windshield is over that way. We've got three strips here. We've got the one that's that really specific geometry, we've got the shorter inch and an eighth wide, almost inch and a quarter wide piece and we've got the narrower, slightly over three-quarter piece for up on this ledge that's probably tough to see. So, I'll try rolling this stuff off by hand which looks like it's coming up. You can see how much this foam has broken down and deteriorated compared to the thickness of the new material. Especially in this piece here. The adhesive seems to be coming off if you just kinda roll over it.[inaudible 00:06:29] denatured alcohol because it helps speed this part up. [inaudible 00:06:43] paper towel is preferable to microfiber. A little more alcohol. See if this Goo Gone does any better. Some of the stops on the top where it's definitely in solid contact with the rollbar and the rest of the hardtop seem to be really pressed on there and not wanting to come off without more effort.I'm gonna break the razor blade out for getting into this little gap here because the rag and my fingers don't wanna get in there very well. Just wanna be careful not to slice and scratch the top. See if it can do that by itself. I took a bunch of it out. Looks like mostly now we've got residue. Clean that up with the Goo Gone and the alcohol and we'll be able to install the new seals.Okay. So, for getting all the old stuff off and cleaning it with denatured alcohol and Goo Gone, they seem to both work similar depending on what layer of the foam you're in. We're putting this three and three quarters by three quarters-ish strip back into this position. Looks like the old one was just about where the black paint transfers to the white unfinished side of the hardtop. And it was off-camera. We were struggling to get the backing peeled. So, with a razor and an equal amount of luck, maybe we get a corner started to expose the adhesive. If I can find the corner that was we'll be in good shape.There we are. So, I'm gonna leave some of it on so I don't end up unfortunate having stuff stick beforehand. I wanna probably make a little upwards bend to keep the low spots from sticking prior to getting the higher areas in place. It's gonna follow down the contour, peeling more adhesive backing as we go. Nice and tight to this wall. And we are gonna be in the same footprint as the old one. You can kinda see the discoloration. After we get it laid out, make sure everything is pressed firm in place. And that is that piece.So, this piece has a slightly different footprint than exactly what the factory had on. It's this angled, dogeared corner here which from trying to match up the old one with this new replacement looks like it would fit best if it was slightly more this way in relation to this edge from the original. So, if we get this peeled just a little bit so we can place everything else without sticking and try and get it in this kind of a configuration with just this triangle wrapping around the edge here. So, gonna go ahead and peel that.You don't wanna get too low because then this tip won't wrap around this wall. So that's kind of our bottom point. Kinda press here into this ledge and work that around. And then the final piece in this area. So, you see these things, these two pieces meet here. The final piece is to go over the top with the inch and a quarter-ish wide. This is the shorter three-inch piece rather than the three and three quarter inch ones that are also the same width of this. So those go in a different area and you don't wanna mix them up. See if I can get this peeled which has probably been the hardest part of this entire process. And this just lays like this over the top. Again, starting from one side and working around those edges so you don't stick a part in place too early and have any bumps or ripples. And then getting everything pressed down firm. That is all we need to do back here at the driver-side B pillar. We're gonna move up to the A-pillar and work our way around the rest of this panel.So, we're up here on the driver's side A pillar of the Jeep where the door would hinge. Here's the windshield line. I'm gonna take this off. The piece that was here has already been removed and cleaned. Looks like we've got some German shepherd material which is all over our Jeep.Got the bulk of this off. A lot easier than the last one. Some more denatured alcohol. Get that adhesive residue off. You probably don't have to have the panel completely clean like it was before anything was ever stuck to it because this is pretty good adhesive. As long as there's not a lot of debris, it shouldn't hurt if there's a little bit of tacky residue. Use the dry side of this towel to kinda make sure there's not any residual alcohol left to work against the new adhesive. And we are ready to install the...this is the three-inch by about inch and a quarter piece that goes right here.Begin working up here where the paint meets the unfished light material. [inaudible 00:16:36] around that corner. We're ready for this other piece with the weird geometry here. It looks pretty intuitive to fit in this footprint where the old one was. So, this one's a little easier to line up than the one back at the B pillar. And unlike the piece at the B pillar, this does not have a second piece laid over it.When you roll this over, because we're in two different planes, there's gonna kinda be some material that wants to bunch up. The best thing to do is kinda work this down over the edge and then kinda iron in that middle part. And it kinda forms to that little bulge. Make sure everything is stuck and we'll move on to the next part.Here we are back at the center of the vehicle where the panels meet, still on the driver's side. There's a piece that was here. Spared you the cleaning. Peel and install that and then we'll be moving onto the passenger side. That's it for the driver's side. Moving on passenger. So here we are at the A-pillar on the passenger side panel. Got this three-inch by about inch and a quarter piece we're gonna stick in here, which is another one that's identical to the other side, just mirrored. Come up to where the black paint stops and work on down. Make sure we keep into this protrusion against that wall. Lay it in and iron it down. The second piece in this corner is gonna be that really odd-shaped piece again. Remember, there are lefts and rights depending on which panel, which corner you're in. So, make sure you've got the right one before you commit to peeling and sticking it. Finding that the razor blade is probably the only way without me having fingernails to get the backing off of these stickers. This one again kinda has this arrow here that fits in this place. And then we lay it flat across this line down around this corner and then kinda work the middle in because there would be a bubble there otherwise.So, we've got everything precleaned here. We're gonna be at the B pillar on the side of the door where it closes, right. The windshield's that way in the front there. We've got three pieces here. We've got the three and three quarters by three quarters approximately. We've got the inch and a quarter almost by three inches. We've got this weird shape again here which kind of goes in this configuration. So, gonna peel the backing.These have been really tough to get with the thin layer of adhesive. Here we are. There's another one, I'm gonna kinda leave part of it...backing on so I can make sure I'm following these contours because there are a couple of steps in this portion of the top. So, I come back where the black-painted top outside meets the white inside. Then make sure we sit on that little ledge so there's no bridging of the seal and work around that contour following the corner and staying tight to this little wall here. Looks like it pretty well sat in the shadow of the old one, the discoloration leaves behind. We've got this piece here again where just like on the opposite side of the vehicle we had this diagonal corner here that they want kinda buttoned up to this foam seal to complete that seal. Then we have the little arrow piece that wraps around before we put the last piece on top.That one can be kinda tricky to get everything landing where it should. You should end up with something like that before we have this final piece wrapping over...overlapping all of that.All right. That's it for the B pillar on the passenger side. So here we're at the center back of the two panels and this is where the driver side panel would overlap on the exterior. And this piece is a little bit unique because it's adhered to some of the rubber or silicon type gasket that doesn't need to be removed because you will not have that replacement part in your kit so do not rip it off. Here are our three and three quarters by inch and a quarter-ish piece that's gonna replace that once we get this clear. So, we've gotta give special attention to not using the old piece to rip off that piece that we don't want moving. We kinda have a tab that sticks out here where the two panels overlap. It'll be easy to see once it's clean and clear. Just be careful you don't have a hold of it when you start to remove and pull. Not only could you rip it completely off, but if you were to tear it, you would probably need to look into replacing that piece of weather stripping as well.There's a little bit of a maybe silicone caulking or something underneath that adhesive. Came with part of it. It looks like we're in good shape. Everything's still attached. That's the bulk of the gasket and the foam removed. To get the adhesive off, I'm gonna switch over to the denatured alcohol.While working all the other corners to get them cleaned, I kinda found out that instead of swiping back and forth with whatever rag or paper towel you wanna use, working with denatured alcohol just in one direction tends to get the adhesive to roll off and keep going rather than move it back and forth and leave it on the panel. That gap down there is tough to get the material out of. Here's that piece of weather stripping that we don't wanna destroy. Kinda supporting it on the underside while I remove the adhesive.There's a good chance that not every little ounce of the old adhesive's going to come off. And as long as it's clean, we should be able to adhere to the new stuff. That's probably as clean as I'll be able to get it with all those contours and not damaging this gasket.Again, I'm gonna wipe the area with a dry cloth to get any residue that might prevent the new piece from sticking. You can kinda see that footprint where the discoloration was at for a reference point of how far this seal is supposed to lay out towards that gasket edge. Now to peel and place it.Right around here we have the foam overhanging the edge of the freedom panel where the material narrows. So, looking in here, it can roll down on that edge without obstructing any of the gutter system that's built into the center of the panels. There's no real other place for it to go besides that. So that completes all the slots and the seals. From here, the panels will be reinstalled.Justin: But wrapping this one up, guys, the hardtop seal kit that we have here again will be an easy and affordable way to help cure a leaky hardtop in your JK, and you can grab yours right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Effective Sealing. Cover up your Jeep Wrangler and hide the damage from your interior with This Hard Top Seal Kit. Designed to block off holes and cracks in your metal work, it is waterproof and sports a dark black color, so it doesn't look too exposed and run the style of your interior. It features a combination of rubber and foam composites to keep it flexible as well as effective at blocking liquids even in heavy downpour.
Warranty. There is a limited 12-month 12,000-miles warranty on This product.
Installation. This product is easy to install and should take about 1 hour.
Application. The Hard Top Seal Kit fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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