(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Merideth: If you're looking for an aggressive exhaust system when it comes to sound for your 2020 or newer Gladiator JT 3.6-liter, this Borla ATAK Single Side Exit Exhaust System with the Black Ceramic Tips will be one to check out.Now, getting right into sound, this is gonna be a four out of five on the loudness meter with one being fully stock and five being wake-the-neighbors loud. Now, that's gonna make it great if you're in search of a decent amount of volume out of a system and you want to hear it when you get on it while also remaining pretty comfortable and not overbearing inside of the cab area. Now, this is also gonna be right up your alley if you prefer more of an aggressive appearance out of an exhaust as well when it comes to the dual tips on the back.Compared to the factory system's restriction, you're gonna be freeing up a lot of that airflow here, offering a throaty tone out of the 3.6-liter. Now, the ATAK muffler will also deliver a lot of aggressive notes out of the exhaust with the tube-shaped course and the straight-through style design, while the resonator is going to allow for really no-drone inside the cab area.Now, the restriction relief will also help when it comes to performance, offering some better throttle response in the higher RPM ranges. Now, this will feature a 2-3/4-inch mandrel-bent T304 stainless steel construction, which will offer smooth and direct airflow as well as optimal rust resistance.Now, the tailpipe section will also feature a ceramic black powder coating for that much more protection and also a more premium appearance to the back. Now, you also can't miss the 3.5-inch dual tip added on the back for some added straight appeal.When it comes to price, this will be more of a premium option coming in at roughly $1,350. Now, when comparing this to other choices on the page, again, this is going to be one of your more aggressive systems while maintaining a really good sound. It's not gonna be raspy or higher-pitched at high revs, which is thanks to the quality in the mufflers. Now, not to mention, this is going to incorporate high-quality materials, considering the full 304 stainless build and the ceramic coating on the back. Now, overall, I think if you've got the extra cash to spend on a quality system, then this is gonna be one to take a look at.Now, install is gonna be straightforward at a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about an hour to get the job done. Now, one of our guys in the shop is going to show you a detailed breakdown of the install, so that's gonna wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into it.Man 1: The tools you're going to need for this install include an impact, electric or regular 3/8 ratchet, spare tire removal tool, hanger removal tool, flat head screwdriver, 3/8 extension, an 18-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 10-milimeter millimeter socket, eye protection, lubricant, and gloves, and pole jacks.What's up, guys? Today we're going to be installing an exhaust on our Gladiator, but before we get started, you're going to watch a short video on how to uninstall your stock components, and I'll meet you back here for the install.Man 2: Okay, guys, first step, obviously, is we're gonna have to remove our factory exhaust. Now, we have our gladiator up on a lift to give you guys some better angles to show you exactly what we're doing underneath the Jeep. And the way we're gonna do this is gonna preserve our factory exhaust. If you don't care about your factory exhaust, it might be easier just to cut it off, but we're gonna show you how to get this off while preserving the piping.So let's go ahead and get started. All right, guys, first thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna remove the skid plate here, and that's so we can drop the front end of the exhaust down. It'll make it a little bit easier to kind of work its way out. The factory exhaust is basically one piece from the Y-pipe all the way back to the tailpipe. So what we're first gonna do is we have a 13-mil bolt or nut right here we're gonna remove and then we have four 18-millimeter bolts here and then two up front here that we're going to remove and that'll let us get the skid plate down. Like I said, guys, that one we just did was a 13 millimeter and the next four are all going to be 18-millimeter sockets you're going to need.All right, guys, now, before I do the front two, make sure you're supporting it with your hand because once you loosen these, the skid plate's gonna wanna drop on you. All right, guys, now, this point back is what we're going to be removing. So this clamp here, we're going to loosen. You're going to need a 13-mil socket for this ball clamp.Now, unlike a regular flat clamp, these ball clamps have a kind of a curved edge that kind of cup around the end of the flange here, so you have to loosen it quite a bit in order to slide this out eventually. So we have that pretty good loose, so we're going to move to the next step. All right, guys. Now we're going to pull back on this lock tab. This is just kind of to prevent the clamp from sliding at all. So just get a screwdriver in there. Pull that back.All right, guys, now we're right near the tailpipe, and this is the rearmost hanger. We're going to remove this bracket because it is the one bracket that is pointing in an opposite direction from the other hangers further forward on the exhaust. I'm going to use a 13-mil socket on these two bolts as well. All right, guys, now, just to get it out of our way, we're going to pull this hanger off. You're gonna have to pull it out a little bit and rotate it down. There's this little tab right here that hooks into the frame rail, so you need to get it away from there. You should be able to just pull this out like that.All right guys, now go ahead and assemble a tool that comes with your Jeep. We're going to lower our spare tire, get that out of the way, and then also remove the spare tire guard to finish getting out our exhaust pipe. Now, this tool basically goes into a plastic sleeve that's behind the bumper here. Once you get that in, you can't twist it by hand, then you know you're on the...it's kind of like a bolt back in there that the end of this tool goes on, and we're going to use it just like a socket wrench. And then the lug wrench here has a square opening in it. Put that in the end here.All right, with a bunch of slack let out, guys, you don't want to drop it all the way to the ground. You want to be able to get a hand underneath your tire. Lift your tire up. And there's a black bracket the tire rests on. Slide it up the cable and get it through the lug hole. All right, guys, now, to remove the heat shield that protects our spare tire, you're going to have five bolts. They're all 10-millimeter. There's three up here that are going to be very hard, if not impossible, for you guys to see on camera here, but we're going to take those three out first. All right, then we have the last two right here, again, 10-millimeter.All right, guys, now, at this step, we only have two hangers that are holding our exhaust pipe up and they are both pointing towards the front, which means with the help of my friend back here, we're going to slide the entire pipe backwards out of these two hangers and then drop it down and actually pull it forward to clear the rear axle.Man 1: First, we're gonna be installing our front pipe, making sure that the kink in the pipe is facing down. Now we can take our factory clamp and put it over our pipe. Then you can take your pipe and line it up. Slide your clamp over. Then you can grab your 13-millimeter socket and tighten this down. Now we'll be installing our muffler pipe. First, we're going to get our clamp and slide it over our resonator pipe. We can get our first hanger in along with sliding your pipe in. Like so. Now we can snug up our clamp using our 15-millimeter socket. We don't want to tighten this down fully so we can have some moving room for our other parts. Good.Now we can slide our other hanger onto the end. A good tip when you're working alone, you could use a pole jack to hold up your exhaust so you can finish installing the rest of it. So now we're going to be installing our bolts for our isolator. So we can push up. Thread in your bolts. Then you can take your 13-millimeter socket and tighten these down. Now we can install our over axle pipe. First, we can slide over our clamp. Then we can slide in our tube. Then we can get our hanger installed. And we'll snug up our clamp using our 15-millimeter socket.Now we can install our isolator. This little tab here goes in the bottom of the frame rail. So we can slide our isolator over the hanger. Have those prongs go into the frame. Take your bolts. Then we can take our 13-millimeter socket and tighten both of these bolts up. Now for our final step, we can install our dual tips. First, we'll slide our clamp over. We're gonna insert our tips. Now that you have your tips aligned, we can tighten down our clamp using our 15-millimeter socket. And now we can go ahead and tighten up all of our hardware.So now we can reinstall our heat shield. There's two studs on the back of this brace that we'll slide our shield into. Then we can thread our two nuts on. Then we can grab our 10-millimeter bolts and thread in the top two. Then we can take our 10-millimeter socket and tighten down all four. Next, we'll reinstall our skid plate. Get it lined up. Thread on your 13-millimeter nut into the stud. Then we can get thread in the rest of our bolts. First, we'll tighten down our nut with a 13-millimeter socket. Then we'll tighten down the rest with our 18-millimeter socket.Now we'll reinstall our spare tire. You could lift up our spare tire cable. Slide this in. Lift up, make sure your spring goes through the tire. Then you can loop this down and under to latch this in place. Lift up on our tire. Loop this down so it hooks. Then we can go up to the tailgate and wind this back up. Then we can take our spare tire tool and put it through the hole, through your plastic grommet, into position, and then you can start tightening. Then you can take your spare tire tool, put it through, and make sure it lines up with the shaft inside and you can start tightening. Now we're back in place. Give this a pull. Now you're good to go.So that's gonna wrap up the install on our Borla ATAK single Exhaust System with Ceramic Black Tips and Side Exit for your 2020 and newer 3.6-liter Jeep Gladiator JT. Thanks for watching, and for all things Gladiator, keep it here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Exhaust System Type||Cat-Back System|
|Exhaust Tip Finish||Black, Black Chrome|
|Exhaust Tubing Diameter||2.75 Inch|
|Exhaust Material||Stainless Steel|
|Exhaust Exit Location||Passenger Side - After Tire|
Aggressive Street Styling. Add sophisticated detailing to your Jeep Gladiator with this Borla ATAK Single Exhaust System with Ceramic Black Tips; Side Exit. Manufactured for performance and style, it features expertly mandrel-bent tubes that offer good airflow, while its dual-tip black coated exhaust add a touch uniqueness to your vehicle.
Durable Construction Quality. Manufactured to withstand high-heat and intense system operations, this Single Cat-Back Exhaust flaunts T304 steel stainless steel construction for maximum durability, while the black coating adds a layer of corrosion protection and won't fade easily.
Warranty. There is a limited 10-year, million-mile warranty on this product.
Installation. This product is easy to install and should take about 1 hour.
Application. The Borla ATAK Single Exhaust System with Ceramic Black Tips; Side Exit fits 2020-2023 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT Models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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