8. Remove upper mounting nut (15mm) from front sway bar links. Disconnect links from sway bar using a small pickle fork and/or hammer to release the tapered seat.
9. Disconnect front sway bar link from the axle with a 19mm socket and T55 Torx socket (late models use a bolt with a serrated neck that keeps the bolt from rotating). Save axle mount hardware.
10. Remove cotter pin and castellated nut (19mm) from the drag link end at the pitman arm. Thread the nut back on a couple of turns. Strike the pitman arm and/or the end of the drag link to release the tapered seat. Take care not to damage threads or drag link end. Remove drag link end from pitman arm and let it hang. Save nut; discard cotter pin.
11. Remove driver’s side coil spring retainer clip bolt (13mm) located aft of the coil. Save clip and bolt.
12. Support axle with hydraulic jack. Loosen and remove driver’s and passenger’s side lower control arm bolts (21mm) at the axle. This allows the axle to lower enough to easily remove and install coil springs. Save control arm hardware.
13. Slowly lower the hydraulic jack, keeping mind not to overextend brake lines. Remove original coil springs. It may be necessary to relocate brake lines for coil spring removal—this requires a T40 Torx socket.
14. Remove factory bump stop from upper coil mount. Large pliers or channel locks can be used to pull it out. Remove factory bump stop retainer cup bolt (15mm) from center of retainer cup.
15. Install the provided 2” bump stop spacer between the factory retainer cup and the frame with a 10mm x 80mm bolt. Torque bolt to 30 ft-lbs. Reinstall factory rubber bump stop in the retainer cup.
16. Install the new coil springs and rotate the ends to seat in the axle mounts.
17. Raise axle until coils seat in upper mounts. Reinstall driver’s side coil retainer clip and torque to 20 ft-lbs.
18. Reattach driver’s and passenger’s side lower control arm bolts/nuts/washers. Do not tighten bolts completely and ensure washers are inside the cam stops on the axle. Lower control arm bolts will be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.
19. Install the new shocks with the provided upper bushings/hardware. Leave upper nut loose.
20. Attach shock to the axle at the bottom mount with the original hardware. Torque bolts to 20 ft-lbs. Tighten upper shock stem nut until the bushing begin to swell. Install thin jam nut and tighten against the first nut.
21. Locate the factory front track bar mount on the passenger’s side of the axle. Measure 3⁄4” toward the driver’s side from the center of the original mounting hole and drill a 13/32” hole at the mark through the front and aft faces of the mount. Do not install front track bar at this time.
22. Reattach drag link end to the pitman arm with the original castellated nut. Torque to 60 ft-lbs. Align cotter pin hole with slots on the nut and install the provided cotter pin. Never loosen nut to align cotter pin, only tighten.
23. Install provided sway bar link U-brackets to each end of the sway bar using 10mm x 40mm bolts, nuts, and 3/8” USS washers. Install the bolt up through the bracket and sway bar hole. Position the bracket so that the holes are facing the same direction as the hole on the axle for the sway bar mount. Torque bolt to 40 ft-lbs.
24. Locate the new front sway bar links and install hourglass bushing with light grease. The front sway bar links have offset eyes. Install a smaller (5/8” OD x 0.407” ID) steel sleeve in one end and a larger (5/8” OD x 0.480” ID) steel sleeve in the other end of each link.
25. Install the new front sway bar links to the axle mount with the factory hardware and to the U-bracket with 3/8” x 2-1/2” bolts, nuts, and washers. The smaller ID end of the link will mount to the U-bracket. When mounted correctly, the links will taper in toward the center of the vehicle (running from axle to sway bar). Torque factory hardware to 55 ft-lbs and 3/8” hardware to 30 ft-lbs.