ExtremeTerrain is proud to offer FREE SHIPPING on any order over $119!
Free 2-3 Day Delivery on most items, see Product Page for details.
Free Shipping Offers are for Standard Ground Delivery Service and are only valid for shipping addresses within the 48 contiguous United States. Truck freight and oversize charges still apply unless otherwise noted, and can only be shipped to the lower 48 States. Tires, Wheel and Tire Kits, and certain large items do not qualify for free shipping.
Shipping to Alaska and Hawaii will require an additional charge.
Merideth: Hey guys. So, today we're checking out the WeatherTech No-Drill Mud Flaps for the front and rear in black, fitting all 2020 and newer launch edition and Rubicon Gladiator JTs. So, protecting the body on your brand-new Rubicon is probably high up on your priority list, and these molded splash guards are going to do just that. Now, these will mount up to your inner fender wells, being perfect for the Gladiator owner looking to keep the side of their truck or the side of their bed protected from any dirt or debris that may kick up and harm the paint. Now, these will be especially great if you've upgraded to a more aggressive or wider tire that's kicking up a lot more debris than the factory tire was.Now, when it comes to the construction, these will be made of a thermoplastic resin, so they are going to be solid and hold up to any kick up, especially even larger kick up on the street or the trail. And they also are going to have a very seamless fit to them. So, as you can see, this is going to have a custom cutout, it is going to be molded for a very seamless and snug fit on your Gladiator. It's also gonna come with a nice textured black material or a textured black finish on top that'll match very well with any of the trim that you have on your Gladiator already, giving it a very OEM-style look. Not to mention, it's gonna come with all of the hardware that you need, all the OEM-style hardware. It's very straightforward to install, so it won't require any drilling or modification to get these in place.Now, when it comes to price, these are gonna come in at roughly $100 for the set of four, and I think that that's a very good price for what you're getting. Now, these do come with four high-quality mud guards, in comparison to some other options available on the page. They may just come with the front or just the rear, in comparison to this one where it has four. Now, in comparison to some other less expensive choices, like I said, the other options available may be a more universal-style mud flap, or they may be more flexible, made of a rubber material. Those are going to protect the side of your body pretty well but if you're looking for something to really cup all of that debris and make sure that it has no chance to get to the side of your bed or the side of the truck, then these are going to be right up your alley. Not to mention, they aren't going to require any drilling or modification as to where some other choices may require any light drilling. So, overall, I think, for $100, you really can't beat it when it comes to a set of four of these no-drill mud flaps.Now, when it comes to install, I'm gonna give this a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about an hour to get these installed. You will need some basic hand tools, including a pop clip removal tool, or a flathead screwdriver. You will need some basic hand tools to get the job done, including a pop clip removal tool or a flathead. You'll also need a Phillips-head screwdriver and a 7 and 8-millimeter socket with a ratchet or a driver. Now, one of our customers here has completed this on their Gladiator and is going to walk you through the process step by step. So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review. Let's go ahead and get into the install.Man: We're gonna start off with the rear mud flap installation. Parts that I have that you need is I have a little tray in order to hold the nuts and screws that come in the packet that are provided. I do suggest when you get the box and unbox everything, verify that all the materials are in there that you're gonna need for the job. You're gonna need a stubby Phillips-head screwdriver, a trim removal tool, and then an awl [inaudible 00:03:25] which is just, you know, it's got that little punch end on the end of it. Or you could use a very small Phillips-head screwdriver, and those are used basically to remove the rivets that are on the outside edge of the fender. And then I also have just a rag and some cleaning spray in order to clean the area that I'm going to be fastening the fenders to.So, first thing to do is remove the rivets. You basically take the end of the awl tool and you press it into the inside of the rivet, and just push hard, and you'll hear it pop. And do it with this bottom one, pop. Then you have to take your trim removal tool, carefully get in behind that plastic rivet and pry it forward, rivet comes out. Same thing on the bottom, pull the rivet out, and just verify that the hole is clear, and there's nothing in the way. Then you have to remove this little push-pin style again with your trim removal tool. With mine, because it's got a 90-degree bend, I gotta turn it backwards in order to get it, and just kinda walk it out. And again, it's all right if it breaks off like that one did because you're not gonna end up reusing it. You can actually get to the back side of it and push it through the fender. So, typically, that ends up looking...it's that typical style, serated push-style pin. So, you can discard that information and those items.This is the rear mud flap, you see there's a little tab here that you have to tuck in behind the fender. So, we get closer and then you have one, two and three screws that will mount up to the factory holes that are there where you just removed those fasteners. So, you have to get this tab in behind the back lip of the fender, that's the first thing, tuck it and slide it up behind there, line up the holes. You'll take your biggest screw or bolt that's there that has the Phillips-head on it, I typically put 'em together to make sure I have all the hardware. You'll put one washer on it and you'll insert it into the hole down below in the fender [inaudible 00:06:07] dropped the screw. You'll be able to feel on the back side that it's...there's no way to actually get a camera back in there to feel where it's at, but you gotta tuck your finger up and behind, and then you can start to thread it on. You just want to thread it on there loosely, you can use the Phillips-head screwdriver if you want at this point in time.You do not need a wrench on the back side, everything is just kind of finger tight. Then you have your two other screws, nuts and washers that will go where the old rivets were on the fender there. You'll take one of those, you place it through a hole, and actually reach up inside the fender itself. You can feel those threads poking through, the screw that's in there, and then you take the second one, do the same thing through the existing hole. There's a little bit of a pocket there, kind of fit your finger in there, there's not a ton of room, just giving you a warning there but...then use your Phillips, just tighten it down. And again, don't over tighten when you're doing it, just snug 'em up, put your finger on the back side in order to hold that nut, and just snug 'em out. And that's the finished completion of the rear mud flap, and now we'll move to the front. You'll need these same tools that you had on the rear, along with the rag.In addition, for this installation, you'll also need a ratchet. You'll also need a ratchet that has a 9/32 socket on it, and that's due to the hardware that you have here. You have these little pointed screw bolts that go in kind of...they're more of a screw, but they have that hex head on the end of it. So, with this again, same procedure as you had in the rear, you're gonna remove this style plastic rivet, that plastic rivet. There's one plastic fastener here that gets removed, one there, and then there's one way back here if you can see it, where basically, you've got the back side of the rail slide body on the rocker panel. You wanna remove that one right there also, so it's a little harder to hold and see, but first procedure is to remove those two rivets. And there's no need to remove the wheel in order to put it on, move that rivet.You wanna make sure they're clearing behind there. So, I got all the parts removed as far as the hardware. Your next step is to take your clips that you're provided, your two longer ones will go basically on the back side up here, this fender. You'll see there's two little tabs back in there, so we'll slide one on, flat side towards the fender. Maybe adjust that a little bit and already get 'em to hold on there, [inaudible 00:12:35] on that tab. Then you wanna install one more right on this hole, the plastic and flat side forward. Should hook into position, pull up the fender lip a little bit so you can tuck it in behind. Okay. The fender in place, take the larger screw nut with the hex head on the end, that'll go on the top rivet hole or the top portion of the fender. Just wanna install that finger tight, keep it loose so the [inaudible 00:13:32] you got your two smaller ones sized, line up the hole. Just get those started.You can feel with your fingers on the back side, you can feel that clip [inaudible 00:14:24]. You don't wanna over tighten, just [inaudible 00:15:23] at this point in time [inaudible 00:15:25]. Now, the last part is you take your screw, well, Phillips-head bolt, pan head with the washer, you insert it through the hole in the back, that's on the back side of that [inaudible 00:15:49], and you'll figure out that you're sliding it all the way through the hole. I think it's going through the fender and then through the tab. Again, you can reach under the body of the car, you can feel the threads, or the Jeep I should say, Gladiator, and you can feel the threads on the back side, start it. Then use your stubby Phillips-head screwdriver to tighten that. Make sure everything's tight up to the body when you're tightening and go back through, and tighten down the other bolts over here. Just snugging 'em up and not a whole lot of force because you're only using that little thin sheet metal clip.Gimme one second actually, the larger screw there is larger than a 9/32. Okay, you can actually use an 8-millimeter socket on there [inaudible 00:18:01]. Plug it up. And the last part of the kit is push pin, you fill in that last hole with the push pin, and push it until it seats all the way home, and the install's complete.Merideth: So, that is going to wrap it up for my review and the install of the WeatherTech No-Drill Mud Flaps for the front and the rear in black, fitting all 2020 and newer launch edition, and Rubicon Gladiator JTs. For more videos and products just like this, remember to always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Engineered for 2020-2023 Jeep Gladiator JT Rubicon and Launch Edition Models
Brand
Weathertech
Mud Flap Placement
Front and Rear
Description
Weathertech Guaranteed Quality. These Weathertech No-Drill Mud Flaps are the piece of protection fit for your Jeep Gladiator. Keep road rubble and grime away from your painted finished and protect your undercarriage with Weathertech's reliable mod deflector.
Advanced Automated Construction. Weathertech has made sure that they deliver products of only the highest quality. For this reason, they've invested in CAM-automated assembly and CNC-laser guidance to ensure that every pair of their thermoplastic-based Weathertech No-Drill Mud Flaps is a mirror model with the exact fitment.
No-Drilling Required. These Weathertech No-Drill Mud Flaps are made without the need for drilling or bolting. simply mount them onto your Jeep's factory installation points and see how its QuickTurn fastening structure works.
Application. The Weathertech No-Drill Mud Flaps are precision-cut to fit any 2020-2023 Jeep Gladiator JT Rubicon and Launch Edition model.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
