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Teraflex 2.50-Inch Base Suspension Lift Kit (18-23 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door)

Item J131077-JL
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. I'm Eric with ExtremeTerrain. In this video, I'm gonna give you my review and install of this TerraFlex 2.5-inch Base Suspension Lift Kit, fitting all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. Now, this kit's really gonna appeal to the JL Wrangler owner out there who wants to add a few inches of lift to their Jeep, but they also wanna preserve the flexibility of a true suspension lift. Now, TerraFlex is one of the hottest names in off-road suspensions right now. And if you've ever worked with any of their kits or ridden on any of their kits, you would know that that reputation is well-earned. Now, in general, lift kits come in all sorts of configurations. The more basic setups use spacer blocks or lift blocks, and those are really an affordable way to add height to your vehicle. However, that usually comes at the cost of flexibility in more extreme off-road conditions. And of course, the more exotic kits out there will get you set up for the most extreme situations. However, you will be replacing almost everything underneath your Jeep, and spending thousands of dollars to do it.Now, this kit from TerraFlex is really an affordable way to kinda split that difference between the basic and the exotic, by giving you a 2.5-inch height increase, which is pretty common to be able to upsize your tires and add more off-road capability, without having to replace a long list of components. Now, this kit basically comes with what you see on the table here in front of me. It gets its added height of 2.5 inches from using longer springs and sway bar end links. So, keep in mind that if you wanna reuse your factory shock absorbers, you're gonna have to get a separate bracket kit that will allow you to use those, or you're gonna have to get some longer aftermarket shocks to use in combination with this kit.Now, the primary advantage to using a kit like this with the longer springs is that you are gonna be able to preserve the ability to flex and twist your axles as you're rolling over uneven trails and roads. And what that's gonna do is provide you better traction and stability, and it's gonna help you keep those tires firmly planted on the ground. Now, like I mentioned a moment ago, TerraFlex really did a good job at kinda splitting the difference between basic spacer kits and the more exotic kits that are gonna have you replacing a whole lot of components on your Jeep, and that's really reflected in the price as well. Currently, this kit is being offered around $800. I think that's a pretty affordable price, considering what you get in terms of upgrade in ride quality and capability out on the trails. Just bear in mind that you're also going to have to either get a solution for your factory shock absorbers if you wanna reuse those, or get yourself an aftermarket set of shocks. And of course, at the time you're installing a kit like this, it's a perfect time to do that kinda work.Now, speaking of installation, I'm giving this a very solid three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You should budget at least three hours of your time to get this job done. Now, depending on your skill level and personal experience, you might be able to shave some time off of that, but I give it a full three wrenches primarily because any time we're lifting our Jeep, there are safety considerations there. You wanna make sure that when you get your Jeep lifted up that you have strong floor jacks that are gonna support that weight, and you also have a very usable floor jack that's gonna help you manipulate your axle up and down, in order to do the kinds of things that you need to do to get your springs out and get the new springs in.So, with that being said, with a little bit of help from this video, and some excellent documentation that comes from TerraFlex in terms of their instructions, I don't think you should have any trouble getting this kit installed. You're not gonna need any exotic tools of any kind, and we'll go over those in just a second. A couple things I wanna call out is in that documentation from TerraFlex, make sure you're following all the torque specifications. And even doing so, within a couple hundred miles of having this kit installed, you're gonna wanna check all those fittings, and make sure they are torqued to spec. Also, once this is done, make sure you take your Jeep to an alignment shop and get a professional alignment done any time you have suspension or steering work done. So, let's go ahead and get started with our installation.All right, so, the tools you're gonna see in this installation, guys. Don't forget your protective gear, some eyewear, and gloves. We're gonna use a pneumatic impact tool, a hand socket wrench. We're gonna have 8, 13, 14, 15, 18, and 21-millimeter sockets, 6 and 8-millimeter Allen sockets, the TerraFlex wrench that's included in the kit, 19 and 18-millimeter Crescent wrenches, a flathead screwdriver, some locking pliers or vise grips, a cutting wheel, a half-inch bit, and a smaller bit for making a drill, a pilot hole. A center punch, pliers, trim removal tool, and a drill.All right, guys. Now we're about to get into the install here. Now, as you can see, we have our Jeep up on a lift. If you have access to a lift, that's awesome. These are a lot easier to work with. But if you're doing this at home, by all means, you can get this job done in your own garage or driveway, using a floor jack and jack stands. Just make sure that you have your Jeep in a stable configuration. And if you are only lifting up one end at a time, chock the wheels at the other end, and make sure that your jack stands are under good, solid portions of the frame. Then use your floor jack underneath your axle to manipulate it up and down as needed, following the directions along as we go here in the video. So, right now we're gonna go ahead and get started by removing our shocks. As you can see, I've got some gloves, and I've got some eye protection on. Any time I work underneath a vehicle, I like to put this kinda stuff on, because you get some flying debris, dirt, whatever, rust sometimes, especially with Jeeps. So, once the tools start flying, a lot of that debris starts flying, so go ahead and get that stuff on, and let's get started.All right, guys. Now, first step here, we're gonna take this bolt out on the lower end of our factory shock. And as you can see, I got a pole jack right here. So, at this point, support your axle with whatever you're using. If you're using a floor jack, get that underneath the pumpkin, or right underneath the differential on your axle, because as we start to take this bolt out, the shock's gonna wanna pull up on it, so you're gonna want that jack underneath your axle, to lift it up a little bit. So, the tools I'm using on here is an 18-mil Crescent and an 18-mil socket.All right, guys, for the top, you have an 18-mill socket right here on the bolt. It's a captured nut on the other side, so we don't have to put a tool on that side of the fitting. All right, guys, I'm gonna try and get this bolt outta here with my left hand, and I'm holding the shock with my right hand, because once you get this out, the shock's gonna wanna fall. Just a little tight there with your fender liner. Okay, using the same tools, you can repeat those steps over on the passenger side, to get the other front shock out, guys.Now, the next step here is we're gonna remove our sway bar end links, and we're gonna start on the bottom fitting. For this, you're also gonna need an 18-mill Crescent and an 18-mill socket. All right, guys, now, on the front passenger side, on the lower part of our sway bar end link, there's a flag nut right here, so we're not gonna need to put a tool on that. You just need an 18-mill socket right here on the bolt. It's a little tight in here, so I'm gonna use a hand tool. And take your flag nut outta there. All right, now, to get the top part of our link out, you're gonna need a 6-millimeter Allen socket, or a large Allen key if you have one, to get it into that part of the bolt. And that's to stabilize the bolt, because we can't put a tool on the left-hand side here as you're looking at it. And you're also gonna need an 18-millimeter Crescent wrench, or, in this case, I have a ratcheting wrench, to put on this bolt right here.And this is one of the more challenging aspects to this install. It's a little bit tight working in here, but you can definitely do it. Once you get it loosened up, you can work both tools at the same time. It'll go a little bit faster for ya. All right, guys. Now, on the driver's side here, same as we just did on the passenger side, we're gonna use an 18-mill ratcheting wrench here, and a 6-mill Allen socket. All right, guys, with both our end links removed, go ahead and push your sway bar up outta your way. And we're gonna go after the track bar bolt right here. This is the axle side, or axle end of the track bar. And to get this out, we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket. When this comes loose, guys, you're gonna see the axle shift just a little bit. That's normal. Just make sure you have your axle supported.All right, guys. Now, at this step, what we're gonna do is you're not gonna use this bracket anymore that holds your brake line to the control arm. We're gonna be getting a new bracket with this TerraFlex kit. But in order to remove this brake line that's kinda pinched in there, we're gonna have to use a cutting wheel to kinda weaken that part of the metal that curves up and over the line, so we can pry it open with some needle nose pliers or a similar type of tool like that. So, what we're gonna do is we're gonna remove it off the control arm first, and so we can bend it and get it away from these other things. We don't wanna nick any of these lines with the cutting wheel, for obvious reasons. That would be bad. So, right now, to get this off, we're gonna need a 15-millimeter socket to get this nut off of the frame here. Now, this bracket comes out like that. And you can see here with the slack, I can hold it out here like this. If you have any other lines here that are attached, go ahead and kinda separate those, and tuck those up outta the way.All right, guys. So, now I'm holding this bracket with my right hand. I've got a cutting wheel here. You could also use, like, a Dremel tool or some other similar type of cutting instrument. And again, I'm just gonna cut in a little bit up here, and just enough material away that I can pry this open. You don't wanna cut all the way through and nick the brake line, obviously. All right, guys, now we got enough of this material ground off here using the cutting wheel. It's warm. It's gonna make the steel bend a little bit easier, plus we've thinned it out, obviously. So...there you go. All right, guys, now we're gonna create a little bit of slack here as we drop our axle here in a moment. We're gonna disconnect this wiring harness here on our differential. There's a lock tab that you probably can't see on camera right now. It's kind of on the inside of this. A little gray lock tab. Use a flat-blade screwdriver just to kinda pull that out, like that. Once you have that pulled out, you can pinch it and back that out. Now we're gonna disconnect the vent tube next. All right, you have a little pinch clip up here. Grab your needle nose pliers. Just kinda pinch this clamp. Loosen it. All right, guys, now we're gonna disconnect this wiring harness. Again, you have a lock tab here. Just pull out, like that.All right, guys. Now, at this step, we're gonna start lowering the axle so we can get the springs out. Just go around, double check, make sure all of the brake lines and other electrical lines that you have attached to your axle have been disconnected, so you'll have enough slack to drop the axle. So, go ahead and make sure you do that evenly. You don't want your axle tipping and getting off balance. So, let's go ahead and start lowering it right now. And I don't know if you can hear that on tape, but as you are lowering this and your springs start to come loose, you're gonna start hearing some cracking and popping. That's noise coming from the base of where the spring connects to your axle. That's just letting you know it's starting to come loose, so we're close. All right, guys, once you've lowered it to the point where the spring is nice and loose, you should be able to get it out at this point. And then go ahead and repeat that on the passenger side as well. After you get your springs out, go ahead and remove the factory plastic spring perch. We're gonna have new ones in the kit here. And do that on the other side as well.All right, guys, now that we have our factory components off of our Jeep, I wanna throw 'em on the table here and do a quick side-by-side comparison, just taking a quick look at old versus new. It's pretty much a direct swap-out. We're even getting rid of the old spring perch right there that, maybe you heard it on video as we were dropping the axle a little bit, there was a little bit of crackling noise coming out. You know, these get a little brittle over time, especially if they've seen some hard use. You've got a little bit more robust perch coming from TerraFlex here. It's gonna be a nice, fresh piece going on the axle. And obviously, we're getting a longer spring here, and that's what's gonna preserve that flex that we're looking for for the suspension articulation while we're out there on the trails. Other than that, a longer sway bar link and a bump stop we're gonna be adding as well, so let's go ahead and get to it.All right, guys. Now, at this stage of the installation, we're gonna be putting the springs up into the Jeep. Now, these springs are much longer, obviously, than our factory springs. And if you've drooped your axle as far as it can go, and that's what we've done here with the setup that we have between the lift and the pole jacks, you might not quite have enough of a gap there to get the springs up in. So, you have a couple of options. You can start loosening a lot of things, your control arms. You can disconnect your drive shaft. There's a lot more work involved there. Now, maybe you have a different setup with your floor jack and your jack stands, and you're not running into this issue. So, it kinda depends on how you're lifting your Jeep and how you're manipulating the axle.The way we have it set up here, I'm gonna need to compress the spring a little bit. So, I have this spring compressor here, and I realize this is not something that most people have in their toolbox. If you need one of these, obviously you can sign one of these out or rent one at your local auto parts store. Pretty much all of 'em have that. And what you're gonna do, and how these work, is they basically have these clamps right here that clamp onto the coils, and they have these locking pins right here that prevent the coil from popping out from the clamp. And I'm gonna use a pneumatic wrench here, and we're going to use a 19-mill socket on this bolt here. And as we tighten this down, it's going to compress the spring, and all we need is about two to three inches of compression on this in order to slide it up into place.All right, guys, before we do anything with the spring, go ahead and grab the brand-new spring perch and get it in, mount it into place there. All right, guys. Now, with the spring compressed, we're ready to put it up in there. Now, keep in mind, when you put the spring into place, you're gonna have to have your lower bump stop inside the spring as you put it up in there, because once the spring's in place, you're not gonna be able to get this through the coils. Now, you'll notice in the kit, you get this large, round bump stop, and then there's a couple small slices that go on, or go underneath this, I should say. And that depends on what kind of Jeep you have, and what size tire you're gonna be putting on.This happens to be a JL Rubicon, and we're gonna be putting 35-inch tires on later. So, in that scenario, we're just using the single bump stop, but make sure you are checking the documentation in the kit, and making sure you're mating up what bump stops you're using to the type of JL that you have and the size tire that you're putting on your Jeep. And as you're getting your spring into place, make sure that the coil that wraps around at the end here is firmly up against that little wedge on the spring perch. And that's how you know you're gonna have it seated properly. Now that we have it in there, we can go ahead and release the tension on our compressor. All right. Now that we have the spring installed, you can go ahead and repeat that procedure over on the passenger side of your Jeep.All right, guys. So, this step, we're going to fasten down the bump stop that we placed on the pedestal right here. Go ahead and grab one of these long, yellow zinc-coated bolts and matching nut. And we're gonna feed the bolt in through the top. And just kinda move this around so it goes down through. Now, you're gonna have this tool in your kit. You can seat the flange nut up on like that. And I've kinda modified it a little bit. This key works great, but it's very short, and you don't have very good leverage, and it gets kind of tight up in here with your hand. So I'm grabbing the end of it here with a pair of vise grips. Makes it a lot easier. And then you're gonna need a 6-millimeter Allen socket for the bolt itself. And as you tighten this down, follow the torque specifications in the instruction booklet, because there is one specified for this part.All right, guys. Now, after we have our bump stops put in, we're gonna raise the axle back up and reconnect the sway bar links, using the new ones included in the kit. Now, the sway bar links that go in here are the shorter ones compared to the other pair that are gonna be longer in the rear of the Jeep. So, you can pull this sway bar down. You wanna make sure you have clearance from this bracket here so you can get a tool in to tighten up the nut on here, but we're gonna go ahead and raise up the axle a little bit. You wanna make sure that your spring is nice and tight, and that it's seated up top, and that you can't move that around at all. Go ahead and grab one of your new sway bar links and feed it in up top here. And you can still manipulate your actual sway bar, and make sure you're kinda lined up down here. Take the nut and start it up top. That's a nylon threadlocker nut, so you're only gonna be able to get it so far with your fingers. But the thing about tightening this down is you would need to make sure you can be able to get your Allen socket in here, as well as your wrench. So, we're gonna go check the other side to make sure we can line it up, since we can still manipulate our sway bar.Now, as you can see here in the bottom, guys, we're about an inch off of where this is gonna connect to this bracket, so we're gonna start raising the axle up on this side as well. And one thing I wanna call out to you as you do this, make sure your track bar isn't down. See, it has the ability right now to be all the way down here, and as we raise the axle back up, the track bar will bang into this bracket, and you won't be able to get it above. So you're gonna need to be able to get it up in this bracket right here eventually. So, bring it up here and kinda tuck it up there. Make sure it's above the axle. Just something I wanna call out to you guys. The other thing too is you can kinda see our spring is a little loose. Make sure it's seated up top, as well as here on the bottom, on the perch. And looks like we have pretty good alignment there.We are gonna be reusing our factory bolts on both sides on the bottom. And if you remember correctly, over here we have this set up here with a flag nut. So, I'm gonna go ahead and thread that in right now. All right, guys. So, now that we're back on the driver's side here, you can see by raising the passenger side of the axle, we've now messed up our alignment here, so I'm gonna need to raise it up over here as well. All right. So, now with everything started by hand, we're gonna go ahead and tighten them down. All right, guys. Now, with this new hardware, you may remember this was an 18-millimeter bolt from the factory. It's now a 19-millimeter bolt, or a nut, I should say, from TerraFlex. So, grab that 19-millimeter Crescent, get it on there. And we're still gonna use a 6-millimeter Allen socket to hold the stud still. And again, we're using the factory hardware here. So, again, it's 18 and 18 on both sides, guys. Now, after you tighten these up, make sure you come back with a torque wrench. There are torque specs for both of these bits of hardware. Now we're gonna go to the other side.All right. Now, top side on the passenger's side. Again, 6-millimeter Allen socket and a 19-millimeter Crescent for the new TerraFlex lock nut. Down here, factory hardware again, guys, so, using an 18-millimeter socket. And again, we have the flag nut there, so we only need the wrench. We don't need anything securing the nut. All right, guys, now that we have the axle raised up a little bit, you can go ahead and start reconnecting your wiring harnesses and your differential vent tube. And once that plugs in, don't forget, click that lock tab into place. And again, the vent tube, you have this little pinch clamp right here. You have to get on there just enough so that the clamp has some of that tube to pinch onto. Okay. And if you have any of these little retaining clips popped out, go ahead and reconnect those as well.Okay, guys. Now, at this stage of our lift installation, you have two options. You can either reuse your factory shocks if you have the appropriate extension brackets, or, like we're doing for this build, you can get some aftermarket shocks that are specifically designed to go with a lift kit. Now, we start it by hand, and once you can't pull it out anymore, you know you got it threaded. So, go ahead and grab a tool, the 18-mill socket, and we're gonna tighten that down. All right, guys. Now, down here at the bottom, again, reusing the factory nut and bolt. And you can see we're not quite lined up, so go ahead and readjust your axle as needed. All right. Now, to tighten this down again, we're using 18-millimeter tools on both sides here. Then go ahead and repeat these same steps over on the passenger's side.Okay, so, we've pretty much done everything we need to do to the front end, except for reinstalling our track bar bolt. That's gonna be, like, the very last thing we do, because the Jeep has to be down on its own weight in order to get the track bar lined up with the bracket. So, we'll do that here in a little bit, but we're gonna move to the rear of the Jeep. And before we do that, just make sure you've reconnected anything you disconnected, and go back through the TerraFlex instructions, which are excellent, by the way. And I do wanna call out to TerraFlex on that. They do an excellent job of bagging their hardware and labeling what it's for, so it eliminates all the guesswork for this installation, and their instructions are excellent as well. Make sure you're following all the torque specs in those instructions. So, with that said, let's go ahead and move to the rear suspension.All right, guys, we're at the rear axle now. Obviously, we're lifted up. We got the tires removed. I have the pole jacks. Now's the time you're gonna need to support your axle. Of course, if you're doing it with jack stands under your frame, and then get your floor jack underneath the differential, or the kinda pumpkin, round part of your axle, get it supported underneath there, because that's where you're gonna need to raise and lower your axle as needed in this installation. So, let's go ahead and get these factory shocks off the Jeep.All right, guys. First thing we're gonna do, to access the top bolt for the shock, we need to remove this plastic cover here. And to do that, we've got three screws that are eight millimeters. We're gonna remove those. Then, just steady with your off hand here, because once you get this last screw out, the plastic cover will fall off on ya. All right, guys. Now, to get this bottom bolt out for our shock, you're gonna need 18-millimeter tool on both sides here. Now, if this bolt is tight on you, you might need to raise your axle a little bit. All right. Now, for the top bolt up here, it's an 18-millimeter as well. All right, guys, now that we have this shock out, you can go ahead and remove the panel and the shock over on the other side.All right, guys. Now, in this shot, I'm gonna explain a couple things, just to give you some context of where we're gonna be working next. And what we're gonna be doing is creating some slack in our emergency brake lines. And our next shot after this one is gonna be directly under the Jeep. And it might be a little bit hard to tell where we're working. We're gonna be removing a bolt and a bracket that basically hold the brake lines up, tight up against the underside of the Jeep. And if we cut directly to that shot, it might be a little hard for you to understand where we're at, so I wanna point this out to you. Coming up off of our axle here, you have this thick line right here, and this one here, and these are the emergency brake lines, and they go out to each brake at either end of the axle. If you trace these back upward, to where they connect to the underside of the Jeep, there's a bracket under there, and that's the one we're gonna be undoing the bolt for, and removing that bracket, and that's gonna create some slack, and I'll further explain the procedure from there. I just wanted you guys to get some context of where we're working.All right, guys. Now, what you're looking at here is we're under the Jeep, looking upward. Obviously, this is our driveshaft right here, and above that, what you're seeing is a collection of fuel lines, and we're actually working above that. You might be able to see where the e-brake lines go into the underside of the Jeep, and just behind that, in orientation on the Jeep, is this bracket. And I have a 13-mill socket that I'm gonna use to get this bolt down. And when you get it out, this is the bracket that we're looking at. All right, guys. The next step in terms of creating slack in our emergency brake line, this is the brake line right here, coming to the brake assembly. This pin right here that has a round end on it, we're gonna need to pinch that with our vise grips or other locking pliers, something like that, and keep it, keep the tool tucked up against this, and we're gonna pinch that. What that's gonna do is keep that pin from retracting back into the brake assembly. Then we're gonna do the same thing over on the other side.All right, go ahead and release your e-brake, and that'll give you slack on the line here. You should be able to pull this out. Do the same thing over on the other side. All right, guys. Now, we're gonna slide this through like that, get that free, and do the same thing on the other side. So, once you've disconnected both sides, if there are any other cables, like the electric cable for your rear locking differential, that are clamped to these e-brake lines, go ahead and separate those, because we're just gonna take the e-brake lines only, and we're gonna feed it back up over this crossmember on the frame.I'm just gonna get that started just enough so I can grab it from the other side. And we'll do the same thing with this other cable right here. Then go around to the front side and pull those through. Okay, now go ahead and grab onto these and pull 'em through. Basically, what you wanna do, guys, is run these down so they go underneath these fuel lines and underneath that crossmember. So, once you pull that through, you can feed it back up and over towards the brake assembly, where we're gonna reconnect it in a minute. And we're gonna do the same thing with this other one. All right, guys. Now, we have it back here where we were before in this bracket. Go ahead and feed the cable through, and then push that through till it clicks like that. Then go ahead and put that back in there, and repeat those two steps over on the other side. All right, once you have the cable reconnected, you can go ahead and remove your locking pliers or vise grips. Do the same thing on the other side. All right, guys. We're gonna remove our lower bolt on our sway bar link here, so you're gonna need an 18-millimeter tool on both sides here.All right. Now, to remove the top portion here on this nut, you're gonna need an 18-mill Crescent and a 6-millimeter Allen socket. Then go ahead and repeat those steps on the other side. Okay, so, we're gonna create some slack in our brake lines. There's a bracket right here, one on each side. And there's a 13-mill bolt right here we're gonna remove, and pull that bracket out so we have some slack. All right, and go ahead and do the same thing on the other side. All right, guys. Now, making absolutely sure you have your axle supported, we're gonna go ahead and remove the bolt at the axle end of the track bar. And this is a 21-millimeter tool you're gonna need right here.All right, guys. Now, we're also gonna need to create slack here with the electrical line that's for the rear locking differential, and the vent tube for our differential. So, to get this out, you just need to pull this lock tab out, pinch that, and then pinch this bracket here, or clamp, I should say. You can kinda tuck those out of the way. All right, now that we've created slack in all our brake lines and electrical lines, you can go ahead and start lowering your axle. If you're doing it with a floor jack, it'll be easy to do it evenly. If you're using pole jacks like I am, you just need to make sure you're kind of adjusting 'em, not quite simultaneously, but a little bit to each side, so that you have a nice, even lowering. And then go ahead and get your passenger side one out as well.All right, since we have our factory springs and sway bar end links off of the rear of our Jeep, I just wanted to throw 'em on the table. Real quick side-by-side comparison. Obviously, there's not a lot to go on here, other than the fact that our new stuff here from TerraFlex, on the right-hand side of your screen, we have longer sway bar links, obviously, as well as a longer and slightly beefier spring. Other than that, there's not a whole lot more to compare here, guys, so let's go ahead and get this stuff mounted up.All right, guys. Now, we're gonna go ahead and put our new TerraFlex springs in. One thing I need to call out to you is that the rear springs are side-specific, and TerraFlex, like I mentioned earlier in this video, does an excellent job documenting their instructions, as well as labeling their parts, and packaging them in a way so that there's no confusion, you know exactly what bits of hardware are used for what. And the same thing goes for the springs. So, for these rear springs, they have it printed on the side here with a code number, as well as the letters L for left and R for right. Left being driver's side, and that's so you know which side the springs go on, which is important, like I said, because they're side-specific. So, go ahead and grab this rubber isolator, and get it seated so that this little nub is up against the end of the coil, and we're gonna go ahead and push it up into place. Then we're gonna go ahead and do the same thing for the other side.All right, guys. The next part of the install is we're gonna mount our track bar relocation bracket, which basically goes on right here. And we're gonna need to drill two holes here on the side, and I'm gonna show you how to do that in just a second. So, go ahead and grab one of the bolts and nuts that go with this bracket. And we're just gonna thread it on right now...just by hand, and that's just to hold this bracket in place while we mark the holes where we're gonna be drilling. All right, guys. Now, to mark these holes, I'm gonna use a center punch. You could also use maybe a, just some kind of a pick, or a more pointed Phillips head screwdriver. Just something to just kinda leave a mark right in the center of the hole. And we'll do it a couple times. Now that we have the center marked, we're gonna drill a pilot hole first, which is a smaller gauge hole. That'll allow us to use the bigger drill bit. And if you don't do that, the drill bit is gonna have a tendency to kinda wander on you, and all of a sudden, you're not gonna get a nice, clean hole drilled out.All right, guys. I'm gonna step up in drill bits. I'm not gonna go directly to the one we're gonna finally use, which is a half-inch bit, because that's quite a bit larger than the pilot hole I started here. So, I'm just stepping up to a bit size that's kinda in between the one I just used to start these holes and our half-incher. All right, guys. I'm actually gonna switch sides here, because, with the length of my bit, it's kinda pushing my drill right up against our brake caliper. So, you have access to it from the center of the Jeep. I'm gonna drill it from here. All right, now go ahead and get your bracket up into place. Now, in the kit you're gonna have these shorter bolts. Go ahead and put them through the holes you just created. And we'll start a nut on there. All right. Once you have these bolts started, we're gonna use a 16-mill Crescent here and an 18-mill socket on the nut side. All right, guys. Now, go ahead and grab one of these longer bolts out of the kit, and a nut that goes with it, as well as this aluminum spacer that's gonna go up in here like this, to prevent the bracket from pinching too much together.So, go ahead and thread the bolt in through the back here. Have your spacer up inside and ready. Now, to tighten these down, go ahead and grab an 18-millimeter Crescent for the bolt, and you're gonna need a 21-mill socket for the nut. All right, guys. Now we're gonna line up the axle end of the track bar to the top hole here, and might just have to play with it a little bit, might have to adjust your axle a little bit, but go ahead and start the bolt through the backside, and kinda wiggle your axle a little bit. There we go. And as you saw, guys, that takes quite a bit of adjustment there to get that just right. But once you have that bolt threaded through, go ahead and get your nut on there. And again, 21-mill socket here and an 18-mill Crescent on the back. All right, guys. Now we can start reassembling the brackets here that are holding our brake lines. We don't need that much slack anymore, so we're gonna do this one on this side and then the one on the other side. And just kinda slide that back in place. And reuse the factory bolt here. And you can tighten it up using a 13-millimeter socket. Then do the one on the other side as well. All right, then we're gonna reconnect our vent tube here to our axle. And you can plug this wiring harness back in as well.All right, guys. Now, to get our bump stops mounted up here on this pedestal that's on your axle, first we need to grab these brackets outta the kit. Now, there are only two holes up on top of this pedestal, and as you'll see in your bracket, there are two pairs of holes. So, what you're gonna wanna do is when you put this up on top of the pedestal, you're gonna wanna have a hole between the holes that we're actually gonna use and the outer end of the axle, if that makes sense. So, basically, we're gonna be threading bolts through the right side as you're looking at it. So, go ahead and get that lined up at top here, and then grab these short button head bolts out of the kit, and we're gonna thread those through, as well as using these lock nuts.Now, I'm kinda threading that through on the bracket. They're not just gonna drop through. So, I'm just gonna get that started there a little bit. I'm gonna start this one through the back. That one kinda dropped into place. Might just have a little bit of extra coating on there that might be causing it to kinda bind up. But before you drop the bolt down too far, it's gonna come into the axle here, so you're gonna need to get your nut up in there and get it started. Now, to cinch these down, you're gonna need a 14-mill Crescent wrench for the nut here in the bottom, and then we're gonna grab our 6-millimeter Allen key for the button head bolt. And you can repeat that on the other side.All right, guys. Now, in the literature that comes with your bump stop kit, make sure that you are using the right number of pads. Obviously, this is the basic big block here, and then they have the smaller kinda, like, shim or plastic plates that will make it higher. Depends on what size tire you're gonna put on your Jeep and what base model you have for your Jeep. So, we have the combination of Rubicon, and this Jeep's gonna end up with 35-inch tires on there, so all we need is this single bump stop here. Now, to get this mounted on, you're gonna need to grab one of these. These is basically like a nut plate, because these holes are threaded here. So, once you get your block mounted into place, you slide this in here like that. And then we're gonna use these Allen bolts with block washers to thread up from the bottom. Get the other side started. All right. So, to cinch this up tight, go ahead and grab an 8-millimeter socket, or I should say, 8-millimeter Allen socket for this. Then you can go ahead and repeat these steps over on the other side.All right, guys. Now, to reattach our brand-new sway bar end links from TerraFlex, you're gonna wanna grab the longer of the two sets, the shorter set, one on the front end. So, and we're gonna orient it like this. This is gonna go up top here, so go ahead and grab one of these bolts, as well as a black lock nut. And we're gonna start that up top first. And go ahead and call your sway bar down from above. Bring it into place. And to cinch this down tight, we're gonna use a 8-millimeter Allen socket on the bolt, and a 19-millimeter Crescent wrench on the nut. Make sure you torque that to spec, according to TerraFlex's instructions. Now, from the bottom here, we already have it mounted into place, and you have a, should have a nylon lock nut for this fitting. Go ahead and start that on there. And go ahead and get your 19-millimeter Crescent wrench on there first. And we're gonna use a 6-millimeter Allen socket for this fitting. Go ahead and torque that one to spec as well, and then repeat the procedure on the other side.All right, guys. Now, at this stage of our install, about all we have left is to mount up our rear shocks. We're gonna reuse our factory bolts for this. So, go ahead and grab whatever aftermarket shock of choice you've decided to put with your lift kit, and get it mounted on. All right, guys. Now, we have it hanging, and we have it started up top. I didn't tighten it down yet, just in case we need a little wiggle room to get it mounted up. Go ahead. It's gonna be a little snug. Get that up in there. And it's probably not gonna line up as is. You might need to adjust the height of your axle a little bit, and I'm gonna need to droop mine just a little bit, and then we can get our bolts started. All right, guys. Now, to cinch this up, you're gonna need 18-millimeter tools on both sides. And we're using an 18-millimeter up top here as well. Go ahead and repeat that on the passenger side. All right, guys. Go ahead and reinstall this trim panel. And tighten these three screws down using an 8-millimeter socket. And repeat that on the other side.All right. So, we've finished up here at the rear end. We're gonna mount up our tires and get our Jeep back down on its own weight. And that's pretty much the only way we're gonna get our front track bar to line up with the bracket. So, once we get that, we'll show you how to get that bolt fitted back in there, and we'll tighten it down to factory spec.All right, guys. Now, obviously, we have the wheels and tires back on our Jeep, and it's down on its own weight. Here's where we're gonna be threading our bolt back in for the track bar, and it's not quite lined up, so I have a friend who's gonna hop in the driver's seat, and he is going to turn the wheel, and that will help line this up where we need it to go. All right. That's good. Now that we have it started, just by hand, guys, I'm gonna go ahead and grab a 21-millimeter socket, and we're gonna tighten it up. And make sure you torque that down to spec.And don't forget to get a professional alignment done once everything is finished on this lift kit, guys. So, that pretty much wraps up this review and install of this TerraFlex 2.5-inch Base Suspension Lift Kit, for all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. For all things Wrangler, keep it right here at ExtremeTerrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Get a Higher Ground Clearance
      • Enables the Use of Larger Off-Road Tires
      • Includes a Set of 2.50-Inch Lift Coil Springs
      • Top-Quality Rear Sway Bar Links Included
      • With Bump Stop Strike Pad Kit and Shim Kit
      • Accommodates Up to 35-Inch Tires
      • Requires Shock Extensions or Longer Shocks
      • An Adjustable Track Bar is Recommend to Maintain Geometry
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Fits 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door Models

      Description

      Transform Your Jeep into an Off-Road Beast. Realize your Jeep’s potential with the Teraflex 2.50-inch Base Lift Kit. This kit contains a set of 2.50-inch springs, sway bar links, and bump stops for a complete base lift that doesn’t compromise on handling. After installation, you’ll be able to sport up to 35-inch tires so you can cruise over off-road obstacles without effort.

      Lift Coil Set. The Teraflex 2.50-inch Base Lift Kit contains a pair of front coils and a pair of rear coils. These spring coils bring up your suspension by 2.50 inches. It is recommended to use Longer Shocks or use Shock Extensions (Teraflex part# 1985200) if you wish to re-use your factory shocks.

      Sway Bar Links Included. The kit includes a complete set of rear sway bar links. The longer rear is 10.75 inches. Combined, they work to align the suspension geometry of your lifted Jeep ensuring a stable ride and flawless handling.

      Professional Installation Preferred. Installing the Teraflex Lift Kit is not for beginners. Caution is needed especially when removing and replacing coil springs.

      Application. The Teraflex 2.50-inch Base Lift Kit fits 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL 4 Door Models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Teraflex 1354000

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (4) Coil Springs
      • (2) Bump Stops
      • (2) Rear Bump Stop Brackets
      • (4) Rear Bump Stop Mounting Strap
      • (8) Bump Stop Spacers
      • (2) Sway Bar Links
      • (1) Nut Wrench Tool
      • (1) Jounce Bumpers Kit
      • Installation Hardware
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Wrangler

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