(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Hey, guys. So, today I'm here with these Superlift's four-inch suspension lift kit with shocks, fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So if you're looking to get your JK up and off the ground, you're looking to get it ready to conquer those trails and given an aggressive stance, this option by Superlift is gonna be a great choice to take a look at.So, shopping for lift kits can be a little bit tricky, because you have so many options to choose from while also focusing on all of the suspension components that are going on with your suspension. So this lift kit by Superlift is gonna be that four-inch lift that's gonna offer you good flex, good articulation, and good dampening on and off-road while still maintaining a decent drivability considering it is a four-inch lift.Now, this is gonna come with all the components that you need to get your Jeep up and off of the ground. It's gonna come with shocks, coils, rear sway bar end links, is gonna come with the front adjustable track bar, as well as all of the hardware and little bracketry needed to go into that lift kit to get it ready for the trails.If you are looking to purchase a four-inch lift kit or higher, I would recommend some longer control arms, some adjustable control arms, and/or row bracket. Now, caster and pinion angle are very important. Whenever you lift your Jeep, you are pulling your axles in. So to flatten out that plane, that's gonna be where your control arms are. And I would recommend to do that. But you are getting cam bolts with this kit and that will help out those caster angles a little bit and offer you a little bit of adjustability.So as far as price goes, this is gonna range anywhere from $850 all the way up to $1,500. Now, the reason why I say that is because you have three options to choose from when it comes to shocks, and I really like that. So the shock choice here is gonna be the Superide shock that's gonna be your budget-friendly option. It's gonna be a hydraulic shock that's gonna give you a nice and comfortable ride. Then you have that middle tier option by Bilstein, that's gonna be a nitrogen charged shock and last a very long time. And then you have that high tier shock by Fox, which is gonna be obviously made of high-quality components, since Fox has been in the game for a long time and they offer quality products. So that's really where that price comes from, and you are getting what you pay for out of this kit. And I do really like that.So when comparing this lift kit to other lift kits, a lot of the lift kits don't offer you that choice. And if it does not come with shocks, you will be able to outsource for those, but it doesn't come in a one-stop shop like this does. And I really like how this gives you some options with your budget, as well as what you're looking to get on functionality wise out of your JK.So install's gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, guys. This is not your average install. This is a little bit more in-depth. There is gonna be cutting. There is gonna be drilling. And I would recommend some mechanical experience. However, if you're looking to follow along with the install, let's hop into that now.The tools that I use for this install were a hammer, a dead blow, a tape measure, PB B'laster, a knife, safety glasses, a breaker bar, a pry bar, a large flat head, a file, a trim removal tool, pair of pliers, a control arm knockout tool, an assortment of hand ratchets, an adjustable wrench, an assortment of open-ended wrenches, as well as ratchet wrenches, a center punch, an assortment of extensions, assortment of drill bits and an assortment of deep sockets, shallow sockets, as well as swivel sockets, a drill, an assortment of impacts, as well as a cut-off wheel.So to kick off our install, we need to get our Jeep up in the air. Now, we're using a lift and we're gonna start in the front. So if you have a jack and jack stands, you can jack the rear wheels and jack up the front of your Wrangler. So now we can go ahead and remove our wheels. You will need a 19-millimeter deep socket, and because we do need a six fine key for this, we are using that key. So one of our first steps is going to be to support our axle. Now, if you are up in the air like we are with our lift then you're gonna want some pole jacks. But if you're down on the ground, you can just grab some jack stands. Now, I'm just gonna be supporting the axle on both sides. So we can go ahead and lower that down.So first we're gonna start with our sway bar end links. You're gonna need an 18-millimeter socket, as well as an 18-millimeter wrench. So we can fully remove our sway bar end link with an 18-millimeter deep socket and the 19-millimeter wrench to hold this stud still.Now we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. However, I am using an 18-millimeter swivel for this bottom sway bar end link bolt just because our track bar bracket, as well as the bracket for our steering stabilizer, is in the way.So before we go ahead and lower our axle, what we're gonna do is disconnect our track bar at the bottom point. We will be taking this track bar out because we do get a new adjustable one with our kit. So you are going to grab a 21-millimeter socket, and we can go ahead and remove that.Now we can remove that top track bar bolt. Now, this is not gonna have a flag mount on the back. So we'll be using that 21-millimeter socket as well as an adjustable wrench, or you can use a 21-millimeter wrench.Now we can go ahead and disconnect our shock using an 8-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. I'm using a swivel because I don't have a lot of room here because of brake caliper, and we also have to remove this secondary bracket. Now, what this is, is a shock adapter because we do have a leveling kit up front on this Wrangler. So we will remove that in a second, but first, we're gonna disconnect our shock.So now I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter swivel for the nut side as well as a 19-millimeter socket for the bolt head side to remove this bolt that's holding in our metal sleeve. Now I'm just gonna get this bracket out of the way and then we could do the same thing on the other side.So before we go ahead and detach the top portion of the shock, we're just gonna lower our axle down and see how much room that we have. Now, be mindful of your brake lines at this point. So what we're gonna move on do next is disconnecting the top of the shock. Now, this do give a lot of trouble because this is a very wear and tear part. This is gonna rust on you very quick. And a lot of the times, they do snap.So what I did here is I cut off the cover of the shock. Now, you do have to keep the body of the shock still because it will spin on you when you try to crack that nut on top free. So what I did, I took a pair of vise-grips, camp that on to the shock. I took an open-ended 16-millimeter wrench and cracked it free. Now I have a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench on there, and we're gonna go ahead and remove that nut.So once we have our shock out, our axle should actually be low enough, though you may need to lower it a little bit more. But what we're gonna do is actually take our spring out from here. We have a spacer and the factory isolator. We're gonna take that out as well.So what we're gonna do now is disconnect our driveshaft. I did hit it with a PB B'laster, and we did mark the orientation up here. You will want to do that to make sure that everything goes back together correctly. Now, I'm going to take a 15-millimeter socket and an extension and remove those bolts. Now I'm going to hit this with a dead blow to remove it from the yoke.So our next step is to remove the lower control arm bolt. We do have to prepare the mount in order to get it ready for our cam bolts. We will need a 21-millimeter socket as well as a 21-millimeter wrench or an adjustable wrench. So what we're gonna do to get our control arm out of the way so we can punch out our tabs on our lower control arm mount is to just loosen up this top bolt. So you're gonna be using the same tools, the 21-millimeter wrench or adjustable wrench and a 21- millimeter socket.So our next step is to punch out the tabs on our lower control arm mount connected to our axle. You will need a tab punch-out tool for that. You can outsource this online as well as at a local auto parts store. So now we're gonna go ahead and punch out those tabs. So in order to get our cam bolt through here to adjust our caster, we do need to punch out these tabs, and they are already kind of notched out for you. You have to make sure that it's oriented in the correct way. You can tighten down the nut.So I'm gonna be using a 21-millimeter deep socket as well as a breaker bar because I don't have a lot of room here because of my caliper, but we can use our impact on the other side. I'm just going to start torquing this down, and it should pull that bolt through and punch off those tabs. All right. And as you can see, those tabs are punched out, but we will need to go back and clean this up. So now we can go ahead and complete the other side. Now, I would like to preface that you will want to do each control arm one at a time. You won't wanna do them two at a time because you will completely disconnect the axle. So now I'm gonna be using that 22-millimeter deep socket as well as a half inch extension and our impact wrench in order to punch out those tabs since we do have clearance on this side. It makes that process a little bit easier.So what we can do now is bend off these tabs and clean them up with a file. I'm gonna use some vise-grips in order to do that, push those off. So now we're gonna take a file and go ahead and clean this outer section up. So now that we cleaned up our lower control arm mount, we can go ahead and reinstall it with our cam bolt and our cam washers in the most positive orientation. All right. So we're going to put our lower control arm back up there and making sure that it is in the most positive setting. And let's take our cam bolt through.So now we can go ahead and tighten up that cam bolt, making sure it's in the most positive setting with a 21-millimeter deep socket and a 21-millimeter wrench. Now we can tighten that top control arm bolt back up with the 21-millimeter wrench and 21-millimeter socket. Now we can do the same exact thing on the other side. What I'm doing now is just cleaning up the excess metal left on the tabs with a cut-off wheel so we can install our cam bolt. Now we are gonna loosen this up while it's on the ground and retighten them down just so our bushing is seated properly. But at the moment, we're gonna tighten this down.So moving on to the springs, guys, I did wanna show you guys a side-by-side of your old spring as well as a new spring that you're getting in this kit. Now, obviously, this is where you're getting all of that height. Your shocks are mainly there to disperse all of that energy that these springs give off, but these are gonna be heavy-duty, a lot more heavy-duty than your factory spring. And as you can tell, at the bottom, we do have a little bit of rust. So a suspension kit and/or a lift kit is really a good way to get rid of all of those worn down parts that you really see your wear and tear from.So enough about our old spring, let's go ahead and pop in our new one. So before we put our spring in, we do need to add our bump stop extension on top of our spring perch here. I'm gonna take a center punch and make a mark where we need to drill a hole for our self-tapping screw. Now, I'm gonna take a 17/64th-inch drill bit and go ahead and drill out that hole. So before we install our bump stop, we do need to run this self-tapping screw through to make sure that it threads properly when we install our bump stop. I'm gonna be using a half inch socket in order to do that.Now we will go ahead and install our spring as well as our bump stop together. So before we go ahead and install the bottom of the spring perch, we are going to slip the bump stop inside, making sure that it's oriented in the correct way. Now we can install our self-tapping screw, making sure that it goes through our bump stop extension. So now we can take our half inch socket, I'm using a deep socket to give myself a little bit of room, and a quarter inch drive ratchet. We can go ahead and start to tighten that down. Now, you do wanna make sure to rotate that so it sits in place, and then we tighten down our bump stop.So we're gonna go ahead and tighten this down with our half-inch socket as well as our quarter inch drive ratchet since it is small enough to fit in between our spring here. So after we've installed our springs as well as our bump stop extensions, what we wanna do next is install our shocks, but we do have to press in our bushings. So while we're over at our vise, we might as well press in all of our bushings for all of our shocks as well as our sway bar end links. You're gonna have two different kinds of sleeves for your front shock. So you are just gonna have a standard sleeve. And then for your rear shocks as well as your sway bar end links, you're gonna have a tapered sleeve. So for our next component, again, I wanted to give you guys a side-by-side of our old shock and our new one. So this kit is gonna actually come with three choices for shocks. You have your Superside shock by Superlift that's gonna be your most budget-friendly option. Then you have your middle tier option by Bilstein and your top-tier option by Fox. So there are gonna be two different types of shocks. First, you have a hydraulic shock that's gonna feel more fluid like. It's gonna be a lot more comfortable, perfect for the daily driver or somebody who does and like off-roading. But however, they are gonna be susceptible to shock fade over time or cavitation, which is foaming forming inside this shock when it's worked really hard, so like bumps at fast speeds or washboards, anything that's excessive. And then you have a nitrogen-charged shock, which is going to reduce that shock fade over time. However, it's gonna be a little bit stiffer and a little less comfortable than a hydraulic shock.So the shock that I'm holding here is gonna be our most budget-friendly option by Superlift. This is gonna be a velocity-valved hydraulic shock. So it's gonna be a lot more efficient and a lot more fluid like than our factory shock and it's gonna last a longer time. Then for the Bilstein, those are gonna be a nitrogen-charged shock. So they're gonna reduce that shock fade over time, run a little bit stiffer. However, those are gonna be made of higher quality materials and those are gonna last a long time as well.Then you have that top-tier option by Fox. Fox has been in the game for a very long time. They make high-quality shocks. Those are gonna be made of high-quality materials. Those are also going to be nitrogen-charged. However, they're gonna be a little bit more comfortable because they are that high-quality brand. So you really get what you pay for when you choose those shocks out of this kit. So enough about our shock side-by-side, let's install our new ones. So now that we're ready to install our shocks, you will need your washer as well as your bushing. But if you do have the Superside shocks or the Fox shocks like we have here, you will cup this washer facing up. Now, if you have the Bilstein shocks, you will want to do the opposite and cup it down. We are just going to flip that over, since we have the Superside shocks, and go ahead and attach that at the top.Now we can go ahead and tighten down the top shock nut with 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench. So now we're gonna raise our axle up to meet the bottom of the shock. As you can tell, it's hitting the spring perch here. But once we raise up the axle, they should actually move forward. So once we have that in position, we can put our factory bolt back through, and we can go ahead and tighten that down with our 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench. Now we can do the same thing on the other side.So now that we have our coils and shocks installed, we have to move on to our track bar. Now you are getting an adjustable track bar out of this kit, and it's obviously gonna be a lot more beneficial than your stock track bar. So what your track bar does is basically center your axles. So once you lift your Jeep, your geometry is thrown off a bit and your axle will shift to one side because it is getting a little bit taller. Now how you can correct for that is an adjustable track bar. And that's what you're getting out of this kit, which I do really like. So, this is also gonna be a lot beefier as you can tell and it's gonna come with new bushings because bushings are something that does get worn and torn over time. So we are gonna measure this out before we put it on our Wrangler as a starting measurement, and then we can go back after our Jeep is on the ground and adjust it further.So we're gonna go ahead and measure out 32 and 7/8 inches from eye to eye. So we are roughly at 32 and a quarter of an inch. So we will have to adjust this outward, and then we can to tighten it down, tighten down our jam nut. Now, we are not gonna tighten this down right away. We're gonna leave it loose and install it loose and then we'll tighten it down once our Jeep is on the ground. Let's go ahead and double-check that measurement. A little bit more. All right. So right there, I'm gonna tighten down this jam nut, not completely tighten it down. We just want the track bar to stay in place while we are moving it around.So after our measurement is finished, we can go ahead and install this on our Wrangler. Now we can go ahead and install our track bar. Now we are only going to attach the top here because we will attach the bottom bolts on the ground and on its own weight. Now we are. We're gonna be reusing that factory bolts, so make sure you save that. Here we go. Now we can tighten that back down with the 21-millimeter socket and 21-millimeter wrench. So one of the last steps for the front, before we move to the rear, is gonna be reconnecting our driveshafts. Now you wanna make sure that you line it up with the mark that you made previously. And then also you have some blue Loctite on hand. You wanna make sure that those bolts are in there, just a little bit of Loctite. You can line that up and thread in our bolts. So I'm just going to ratchet this by hand for a couple of threads. Make sure that they are threaded correctly and then move on to the other three bolts. And again, I'm using that 15-millimeter swivel that we use to take them out.So we have two last steps up at the front. First is to connect our track bar. Now, we have to do that while the Jeep is on its own weight. The second is our sway bar end links. Now, this kit only comes with one pair. And we're gonna put those in the rear and move our rear sway bar end links up to the front. So we're gonna save that step for last because we do have to disassemble the rear in order to do that. So we're just going to disassemble the rear and put on our new shocks and coils and all of our new brackets.So let's go ahead and start with our rear shocks. So you're gonna need an 18-millimeter socket as well as an 18-millimeter wrench. So we're gonna start with the bottom shock bolt. We're using an 18-millimeter socket as well as an 18-millimeter wrench. So like I mentioned before, guys, this Jeep already has a lift on it. We're just upgrading it. So we do have a shock bracket right here. This has a different type of bolt on it. It has an 18-millimeter bolt and a nut on the back.Now, what you're gonna need at home if you have stock components is a 16-millimeter socket as well as an extension. I'm also using an extension. I'm just not using the correct socket for these stock parts. So what I'm using is an 18-millimeter swivel as well as a 19-millimeter wrench to keep this nut up here on the shock tower still. So after our shock is removed, we can go ahead and remove our sway bar end link. Now you're gonna be using that same 18-millimeter deep socket as well as an 18-millimeter wrench. And then for the top, it's gonna be the same process. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and a 19-millimeter wrench to hold that stud still. Now we can do the same thing on the other side.So our next step is to take out the bottom track bar bolt. We do have a relocation bracket for our rear track bar to correct some of that geometry. So you're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket. So I'm just gonna do is take a small pry bar and pry the track bar out of the bracket. Then we can just set it on top because now we're gonna have to lower our axle in order to get our springs out.So before we actually lower our axle, we do wanna protect our ABS line as well as our brake line. So first we're gonna take a trim removal tool and just pop these clips out. Make sure that there's no tension on our ABS line. I'm also going to remove the one on the frame rail just to be safe.Now, I'm gonna take a 10-millimeter socket. See, we already have a drop bracket on here, but I still want to take this off to make sure that we have enough room to work with when dropping our axle. So I'm gonna take a 10-millimeter socket again and I'm just gonna remove that. So our last brake line that we have to take care of is our parking brake or emergency brake. It's gonna be two nuts that we have to take off of these studs up here. Now, I am using a 10-millimeter deep socket in order to do this. And I would also recommend to spray this with a WD-40 or a PB B'laster because these tend to get very rusty. So what we can do now is start to lower our axle. Now we can also remove the spring on the other side. So our last step to taking apart the rear is just to take out our bump stops because we do have replacements.So our next step is to attach our bump stop extension. This is gonna go right on top of the axle here. And you will have two holes to bolt this through. All right. And we can attach the other side and then tighten those down. So I'm gonna take a 13-millimeter socket and a 13-millimeter wrench, and we're gonna go ahead and tighten that down. Now we can do the other side.So what we're gonna do at this point is press in our bump stop. I took a couple of wooden blocks. And we're gonna raise up our axle to put some pressure on the bump stop because they're not the easiest to get in. I also put a little of PB B'laster on it just because a little bit of lubricant does help with this. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. You need to grab your flat-head screwdriver and help it in. Just double-check that it's seated properly. Then we can move on to installing our spring.Now, with our factory isolator, we're just going to pop in our spring. All right. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. So next step is to install our track bar bracket. Now, these tabs are going to be very tight. So I'm gonna use a hammer to get it in place. So as a placeholder, before we attach our U-bolts around our axle, we are going to put this 9/16 inch bolt. So now we can attach our U-bolt around our axle. So we can take our second U-bolt and bolt that around the other side. So now I'm gonna tighten these down with a 14-millimeter swivel socket as well as a small extension of clear bracket. So what we need to do now is drill out this hole in the inside of the track bar bracket so we can fit a bolt in here. Now I'm gonna use a center punch, and we do need to drill it out to a half-inch. So I'm going to work my way up from a smaller drill bit to a 5/16 inch to our 1/2 inch. First, I'm going to mark my center punch so we know where we have to drill. Now we can grab our drill and our drill bit.So I'm gonna start with a 7/32nd inch drill bit then I'm gonna work my way up with a 5/16th inch drill bit. You could also use a step bit as well. But the reason I'm not using a step bit is step bits are really a little bit shorter and I wouldn't be able to fit my gun in here. So we are just going to step it up with regular drill bits. All right. Then we can step up to our half-inch drill bit. To make sure that the bolt is not hitting our shock body, we're going to put the bolt facing the passenger side. So now we can tighten that down with a 19-millimeter wrench and a 19-millimeter deep socket.So now we can take our new sleeve as well as our new bolt and bolt that through our track bar in the place where our factory bracket or our factory bolt was located. So now we're gonna attach our flag nut on the other side. I already have it over there. But first, I'm going to tighten it down with a 21-millimeter socket and a hand ratchet. And once I can feel that it's threaded most of the way on, I'm going to take an impact to it. So what we need to do at this point to attach our sway bar end links is drill out the sway bar to a half-inch. Now, it's not gonna be that far off. You are only drilling out of hair. So let's go ahead and take our half inch drill bit and drill that out. So now we can attach our sway bar end links. So you'll get this sway bar end link, and it will have a heim joint on top. I do like this because it gives a little bit more of articulation when you aren't trying to flex out your Wrangler. And it also is gonna have a jam nut here to keep this heim joint in place. So now we can go ahead and line that up with our sway bar. And we're gonna tighten that bolt down. And we can also grab our factory hardware for our bottom sway bar bolt.So before we tighten down that top, I do wanna attach the bottom. We're gonna attach it with our factory bolt. Then once that's on there, we can grab a 16-millimeter wrench and a 19-millimeter deep socket and tighten down that top stud. Now, with an 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench, we can tighten down that bottom bolt.So what we're gonna do now is just tighten down that jam nut with a 19-millimeter open-ended wrench. We can do the other side. I also would like to mention that these should be measured out 11 and 1/4 of an inch eye to eye. We have them pre-measured here. So we're just going to go ahead and install those.So now using your factory hardware, you're going to attach one of the bolts in the top shock mount. And then we're going to hook one of the teeth on to that bolt and thread in our second bolt. So now that we have the top of the shock bolted in, we need to bolt in the bottom. You will need to raise the axle up to meet the bottom of the shock. And then we can take our factory hardware and bolt that through. Then we can tighten that down with an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. And we can do the same thing on the other side.So now we can go ahead and attach the bottom of the shock. Again, we can tighten that down with 18-millimeter wrench and socket. So what we're gonna do now is extend our brake line brackets. Now, we already have extended drop-down brackets on here because of the previous lift. However, we are replacing those with these Superlift brackets. So I'm gonna be removing those with an 11-millimeter socket and 11-millimeter wrench. So you can put that aside.So now we're gonna insert our brake line bracket, tighten that down with our stock 10-millimeter bolt. Then we're gonna attach our new bracket to our old bracket, tighten that down with 11-millimeter socket and 11-millimeter wrench. Then you do the same thing on the other side. So we only have a couple of steps left, but we do need to reconnect our front sway bar end links, and we're using the ones from our rear. So what we're gonna do now is reconnect our track bar. Now, there's two ways you can do this. You can either do it on the ground with the weight of the Jeep, or you can do it with a ratchet strap while it's up in the air. But take extra precaution if you are using a ratchet strap since your Jeep is up on a lift. So let's go ahead and reconnect your truck bar. So if you're using a ratchet strap, you wanna connect it to the track bar bracket and find a good spot on the frame. So, Ryan's gonna help me out and ratchet this down while I get the bolt in. So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
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(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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