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Ryan: The SkyJacker 2 to 2.5-inch lift kit with the dual rate long travel springs and the M95 shocks is for those of you that have a four-door 2018 and up JL Wrangler that are looking for a way to squeeze a larger tire underneath your Jeep. This is going to be a good way to fit a 35-inch tire under the Jeep and have still plenty of room to articulate and to move when you're off-road without the tire making contact with the body. You want to go with a larger tire, you're gonna want to look at a larger lift, and if you want to go with a smaller tire, you can probably get away with a smaller lift kit. So, again, 35s are really what's best for a lift kit of this size. The main reason that you should be installing a lift kit is to fit a larger tire under your Jeep and still have the Jeep perform well. Which lift kit you choose really depends on how you want to use your Jeep and exactly what you want to get out of it. So, let's talk about the components that are included in this kit. As you can see right here, you're going to get new coil springs, this is the heart of any suspension lift kit. This what is going to produce that new taller ride height. Now, as SkyJacker says right in the name, these are a dual rate long travel spring. So, the idea here is that you want the longest free length that you can possibly have, which means that the suspension can droop as much as possible while still having weight on that tire. If the tire droops out but the spring isn't still touching the top and bottom perches, there's no weight on that tire and the tire is not really doing anything for you. So, the longer the free length the better as far as the spring goes out. The dual rate portion is essentially just allowing this section, the section where there's more space between the coils to be a little bit of a softer spring. So, you're getting less compression, damping, from that part of the spring, but then if you do fully compress the spring, you get down into this area, you're going to have a stiffer spring rate that's going to keep the spring from going into coil bind, that along with of course your bump stop extensions. Now, there's a lot of debate about what's better, a dual rate, a triple rate, progressive rate, single rate spring. Some people will say that as you go from the first rate to the second rate, it can feel a little bit harsh when you have a dual rate spring, which is why progressives were a thing.It really depends on how you use your Jeep, what you're looking for out of it. This is going to perform pretty well both on-road and off-road. Over here, you're going to have your bump stop extensions for both the front and the rear of the Jeep, and these are going to serve a couple of purposes as they do on any vehicle, one is to keep your shocks from fully compressing because that can cause damage to the shock. The other's going to be to keep the spring from going into coil bind when the coils touch together because that can damage the spring, and the third is going to be keeping the tire from making contact with the body, but part of that is up to you. Again, this is designed for 35-inch tires. If you run something larger, even with these bump stops, there's a chance that your tire will make contact with the body and can cause damage to either the body or the tire.Here are your new longer sway bar end links for both the front and the rear of your Jeep, that's going to keep your sway bar angles a little bit closer to factory even after you've installed the springs and you are at that newer ride height and you are at that new taller ride height.Now, these are not going to be quick disconnect, so they're still going to be bolted into place. If you are somebody that does a lot of off-roading, wants the ability to very easily disconnect that front sway bar, this is one of those areas where you can go ahead and upgrade. Here you have your M95 shocks. As you can tell from the banding on the shocks, these are going to be a nitrogen-charged shock.So, all shocks have fluid inside of them. The nitrogen charge that's in this shock keeps that fluid from foaming and cavitating, which can cause some shock fade when you work a shock really hard off-road. Now, when you're going slow, that's not really going to come into play, but if you do some higher speed wheeling, you're hitting the whoops and the washboards, the nitrogen charge is going to help avoid any sort of shock fade. And over here, the last piece that you're going to get in the kit is going to be a rear track bar bracket and that's going to help get your roll center a little closer back to factory as well as helping to recenter that rear axle a little bit. Now, in the JL, this bracket, the track bar bracket, goes on the frame side where on some past generations, the rear track bar bracket would go on the axle side. So, it's just a little bit different with these newer vehicles. But that's exactly what this is designed to do, just lower that frame side mounting point a little bit to get your roll center a little bit closer back into check. Now, as you can see, there's nothing here for the front track bar. That's one of those areas that, again, you can upgrade if you choose to. If you decide you want to, you can put in an adjustable front track bar that will allow you to completely recenter that front axle. You can really go crazy and add all sorts of different things like adjustable control arms that are going to have spherical joints, can get additional articulation. There are a lot of different add-ons that you could go with, with any lift kit, not just with this one. But as I said before, I do think that this is going to be a pretty good start for you. The other thing that this kit includes that I do like is this set of caster bolts. And caster bolts aren't perfect, but they are a way that you can roll the axle a little bit by using those lower control arm bolts, that's going to get your pinion angle and you're caster angle a little bit closer to factory. So, that's what these are going to come with. Now when you go off-road, if you really beat on the Jeep, there's a chance that they can move and that's not why they aren't the end-all-be-all solution for pinion and caster angle, but they are going to be an inexpensive way to get those angles a little bit closer to factory and they do come with this kit. I mentioned at the beginning that this is a fairly inexpensive way to get your Jeep on 35s, and that's true. This kit comes in at right around $700 and I think that's a pretty good deal. You are going to get some pretty nice quality components here. You're going to be able to be rolling down the road with your new larger tires installed on your Jeep without needing to add anything additional. So, this kit does come with everything that you need. Is there room to upgrade? Yes, but there is with pretty much any lift kit. If you're not exactly sure where you're going to take your build, you don't do a lot of off-roading currently, and you don't know what you need, this is going to get you on those big tires, take your Jeep out, have fun with it, and then as you realize what you might want to upgrade or tweak, you can go from there.I'm going to give this kit a two out of three wrenches. There is going to be a good bit of disassembly to do of the Jeep in order to get all of the old components off and to get all of these new components bolted in. So, again, two our of three wrenches. The time's going to vary depending on the tools and your level of experience, but we'll talk a little bit more about the installation in just a second. Now, let's show you how to get this lift kit installed. Tony: Tools used for this installation are as follows, few different impact guns and ratchet or a regular hand ratchet, a 22-millimeter socket, a 21-millimeter socket, a 19-millimeter socket, an 18-millimeter socket, a 10-millimeter socket, an 8-millimeter socket, an extension, a wobble fitting, an 18-millimeter wrench, a 19-millimeter wrench, a dead blow Hammer, 8-millimeter Allen key, and a good set of work gloves. We're gonna begin by getting our Jeep up in the air. We're gonna be using the lift. You can do this at home with a floor jack and some jack stands. I highly advise definitely using some jack stands for safety. Let's go ahead and get our Jeep lifted up in the air.Now that we have our Jeep lifted up into the air and secured safely, we're gonna go ahead and get our wheels and tires off, then we're gonna move on to getting our factory suspension out. Now, using a 22-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and get our factory wheels and tires off. Afterwards, we're gonna put them off to the side, and we're gonna go ahead and get our shocks removed. We're gonna move on to our sway bar end links. We are gonna disconnect our parking brake cables. It's going to make it a lot easier to swing the factory rear differential out of the way to get our springs out. Now that our wheels and tires are off, we're gonna go ahead and use a couple of pole jacks to support our rear axle assembly. Then we're gonna go ahead and start getting some of our components off. We're gonna start by taking off our rear shocks, getting them out of the way and off to the side. Then we're gonna move on to our sway bar end links. We're gonna go ahead and get our track bar disconnected. We're not going to completely remove it, we're just going to go ahead and disconnect it for now. And then we're gonna remove our parking brake cables just to give us that little bit of extra stretch to get our factory springs out and our new springs in.Now at home, if you don't have pole jacks to use and you're not on a lift, you can do this with a floor jack. Like I said before, just make sure that your Jeep is well-supported on a set of jack stands and you can go ahead and just put your floor jack right underneath the pumpkin and lower it down and out of the way. Now, starting with your 18-millimeter socket and the 18-millimeter wrench, we're gonna go ahead and get our shock bolts off here. I'm gonna begin by just taking off the lower ones, swinging them out of the way, then I'll show you how to get access to the upper bolts and we'll go ahead and get those out too. Now, to gain access to your upper shock bolts, we're gonna have to go ahead and remove this small inner fender panel right here. Now, this is very simple. You're just gonna use an 8-millimeter socket and go ahead and remove these three screws and get this out of the way. All right, now that our inner panel is out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and use the same 18-millimeter socket that we used to take the lower bolts out to remove our upper bolt. Now, we're not going to need the wrench this time because the weld nut is already welded to the inside of the frame. Now, we're just gonna go ahead and remove the bolt and make sure you keep a good grip on that shock when removing it because you don't want it to fall down and hit you.Now, just remember this is the same process on both sides, so it doesn't really differ whether you're on the driver's side or the passenger side. Now, that our shocks are out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and get our end links off. Now using the same 18-millimeter wrench and socket, we're gonna go ahead and get them disconnected. We're gonna start with the lower ones. With the upper mounts, we're gonna need to utilize an Allen key to get those disconnected. When disassembling your Jeep, make sure you keep your hardware well organized because a lot of this, we are gonna reuse with the installation of our new lift kit. Now, for the removal of our upper tie rod end links, we're gonna go ahead, I'm going to break them loose using my 18-millimeter socket on my impact gun but we will not be able to remove them completely this way.To remove them, we're gonna have to put an Allen key in the middle of the bolt and a wrench on the nut because it utilizes a ball joint style attachment. Next, using a 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and disconnect our track bar, but we're not gonna completely take our track bar out because we're still going to use this one once we put it back together. Now, this also has a weld nut with a tab on the back of it, so you won't need a wrench to hold the bolt in place. Now, that our track bar is disconnected, we're gonna go ahead and get our parking brake cables disconnected from the back of our axle. This will give us that little bit of extra room to lower our axle down enough to get our factory springs out so we can go ahead and get started getting our new ones in. I already got this one out, but to remove them, you gotta pull on the cable to gain a little bit of slack and you're gonna want to hold this tab out while you do it, and this should pop right out. Once again, we're just going to pull on the cable while holding this tab out and unhook it. Now, to disconnect the cable from this tab, all you have to do is press in the little tabs that surround the outside of it and it should slide right out. We'll repeat this on both sides.Now that we have everything disconnected, we can go ahead and start lowering your axle assembly down. Now, that our axle assembly is lowered, we can go ahead and pop our factory springs out. Now, here you can see that these are our new springs compared to our original springs. They are considerably taller. And now I know you're looking at the video going, why is that one new spring taller than the other? Well SkyJacker did this to solve the problem of the fuel tank being on the passenger side by putting a slightly taller spring there so when your fuel tank is full, your Jeep will still sit level. Now, your springs are marked on the front left and right. You want to make sure that you get them in the right place. Now, in lowering your rear to get our new springs in, because of their height, we are going to need to disconnect our brake lines from the frame rail. I didn't know this at first. I just noticed that they were getting a little stretched out. Now, you want to make sure you do this, this way you don't cause any damage to your brake lines or your ABS lines.Now, with the use of a 10-millimeter socket, just go ahead and get these out of the way. All right, now that we have our springs in, we're ready to go ahead and get our shocks installed, but you'll notice something is missing on our shocks. We have to go ahead and get our bushings installed and we're gonna go over to the workbench and get that done. So, to install our bushings, we're gonna use a little bit of penetrating oil. We're gonna spray it on the inside of our shock where the bushing has to go, this will make it a lot easier for the bushing to slide into place. Now, we'll go ahead and slide our metal collar down the side of it. And it's a good idea to also spray that with a little bit of penetrating lube. Now, you'll notice on the top of our shock, the top mount, our metal tube's a little long. Well, that's to fill in the gap that's in the frame by adding these polyurethane washers on the outside. Now, just go ahead and install the one that goes on the bottom and we can get these shocks into our Jeep. Now, using the same process, a little bit of penetrating oil. There you have it, now our shock is ready for install. Now, to install our shock is just a reverse of removal. We're gonna go ahead and get our top hardware in first.Just go ahead and slide your new shock up into your frame mount. With a little bit of finagling of our pole jacks, we'll go ahead and get our bottom shock bolt lined up. Now that our shock is installed, we can go ahead and get the other one done. It's the exact same process for the other side. All right, now we got our shocks all installed, but no, we're not going to tighten them up just yet. We're gonna go ahead and get everything else in our rear installed then we're gonna go back and tighten everything up. Next, we're gonna go ahead and get our end links together. Now, they go together the same way that our shocks did with the bushings. They do not come installed already, we got to do that ourselves, but the same process we used to get the bushings in our shocks are the same process we're gonna use to put them in our end links. Now, we gotta get our end links put together, and to put these together, it's just like the shocks.With the new supplied hardware that comes in our kit for our upper end link mount, our new mounts don't utilize the same ball joint style fitting as our factory ones did. So, you go ahead and put our button head bolt through there using two washers, get that started, and follow it up with our factory hardware for our lower mount.Now, that our end links are in place, we're gonna go ahead and get our track bar mounted back up. Might have to recruit the help of a friend to help me push the axle assembly over slightly to line the bolts up, but we're gonna get it in before we get it back down on the ground. Go ahead, as much as you can. All right, now that we got our track bar reinstalled, we're gonna go ahead and hook back up our parking brake cables. Then we're gonna go ahead and put our brake line brackets back in place. Now we can just go ahead and get our brake line brackets reinstalled. All right, now that the rear portion of our lift kit is all installed, we're gonna go ahead and go back and tighten everything up.I'm going to begin by tightening up our track bar, then I'm gonna go ahead and move to our shocks and end links. Now, using an 8-millimeter Allen key and a 19-millimeter socket, we can go ahead and tighten up our new hardware that came. Well, that rounds up the installation on the rear of our Jeep. We're gonna go ahead and move to the front. All right, now onto the front end of our build, we're gonna go ahead and disassemble it just as we did the rear. We're gonna start with our shocks, our sway bar end links, we're gonna disconnect our track bar, our brake lines, and then maybe a few fittings, drop our differential down, and go ahead and get our new springs and shocks in. Now, the disassembly of the front uses all the same tools as the rear. The shocks are still at 18-millimeters. Your sway bar end links are also still your 18-millimeters and your track bar's still your 21. Now, on your Rubicon Jeep, you're going to have this sensor up in here. This is the sensor that locks your differential in, so you get power evenly distributed to both wheels. We're gonna need to unplug that. You don't want to have too much tension on that wire or else your four-wheel drive won't work completely.Using a flathead screwdriver, come to the clip, dig it in, and give it a little twist. It unlatches. You can go ahead and pop the plug right out. Now, that you have everything disconnected, we can go ahead and start lowering our differential down so we can pop our springs out. And I know our shocks and our original end links are still attached. We'll get those out in a minute. Now, that we have our differential lowered down enough, we're gonna go ahead and pop our springs out. We're just going to toss these off to the side. Now, as you can see, these are our old springs compared to our new springs. And if you'll notice that this is a progressive style spring. Now, what does that mean? That means that when you're on the road, you're still gonna have that nice, soft ride quality as your stock suspension while still getting the height and performance out of your springs when you take it on the trails. Now the front springs are also marked left and right, so we're gonna go ahead and get these in and get the rest of our components together. I noticed that our driveshaft, once we're lowering our front differential down, it's coming in contact with this crossmember. So, what I'm actually going to do is just going to remove the three bolts that hold this crossmember in place, this way I don't mess with our driveshaft. This will give me the few extra inches I need to go ahead and get our spring in. Now, I'm gonna do this utilizing our 18-millimeter socket we used earlier. All right, now let's see if that bought us a few extra inches of space, I believe it should. All right, let's see if our spring fits better now. Well, that did the trick. It gave us plenty of room to go ahead and squeeze our spring up in there. Let's go get the other side in. All right, now that our springs are in, let's go ahead and get everything else swapped out. I'm going to begin by removing our tie rod ends and then I'm gonna show you how to get our shocks out without removing your inner fender well. But once again, with our tie rod ends, it utilizes the ball joint upper mounts so I'm gonna use my 18-millimeter on my impact to go ahead and break them free, and then I'm gonna use my Allen key to take them the rest of the way out. Actually, on that one, I was actually able to take it out without using my Allen key. Now, identical to the rear, we're gonna go ahead and get our bushings put into our tie rod end links and into our shocks, so let's go over to the bench and get that together. All right, now that are tie rods are all together, let's go ahead and get our shocks together too while we're at it. On the top of your shock, the longer sleeve is actually the one that belongs in there, so we can put our two bushings on the outside of it to take up space in the frame. Now that our shocks and end links are all ready, let's go ahead and get them inserted in our vehicle. All right, next we're gonna go ahead and get our shock out of the way. What you're going to want to do is just go ahead and push this up. This is your inner fender wall. You can use your 18-millimeter, go ahead and zip that out. All right, now let's replace this with our new shocks since we have them all ready to go. Now, we're just going to go ahead and lift our axle up into place and line up our shock bolts. You can go ahead and repeat this on the other side. Now, that our shocks are all in and our differential is actually hanging from our shocks, we can go ahead and get in our tie rod ends.Now, with the kit, just like the rear, they came with new hardware for the upper mount. You can just take your bolt with two washers, go ahead and slide that in on the top. Secure it with the lock nut that comes with the kit. Now, before we go ahead and get our lower bolts in, we're gonna go ahead and get our track bar bolt back in. Now, to do this, I'm going to have a friend come over and give me a hand and we're gonna use our pry bar again, just like we did in the rear, and push our differential over slightly just to line up the hole. Well, we're not gonna get the track bar mount in just yet, you gotta put some weight down on the vehicle and it will make it a lot easier for us. Let's go ahead and get our tie rod end links tied up and then we can get our wheels back on and get it back down on the ground, then we can go ahead and get our track bar mount in. Now, to tighten up our upper tie rod end links, it's actually a 19-millimeter. This is the new hardware that comes with the kit. So, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket and a 19-millimeter wrench and get those tightened up. Now, before we get our wheels and tires back on, there's just a few last odds and ends we gotta go ahead and tighten up. Gotta plug back in our connection for our four-wheel drive. We're gonna have to go ahead and reattach our brake line brackets and then we can go ahead and throw our wheels and tires back on. And not to mention, let's put back that crossmember that we had to remove to lower our rear down. All right, now let's get our wheels and tires back on, then we'll go ahead and get our Jeep back on the ground and get that front track bar reconnected. And then we'll be done. That'll tie up our installation of our SkyJacker 2.5-inch lift kit on our JL Jeep Rubicon. Back towards me a little bit, smidgeon. Now, you want to go ahead and after about 100 miles, just make sure you go back over everything and tighten it back up, take it in for an alignment. And just like anything, once you mess with the suspension, you're definitely wanting to make sure that you get your car realigned. Now, for more parts and videos like these, make sure you visit us at extremeterrain.com and follow us on ExtremeTerrain on YouTube.
Dual Rate-Long Travel Lift Kit With M95 Shocks for 2-2.50 Inch Lift
Provides Exceptional All-Terrain Performance
Covered by Limited Lifetime Warranty
Expert-Level Installation
Sold as a Kit
Fits All 2018-2023 2.0L or 3.6L Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon 4 Door Models
Description
Provides Exceptional All-Terrain Performance. With the SkyJacker 2-2.50 inch Dual Rate-Long Travel Lift Kit with M95 Shocks, you can drive with your 4-door Rubicon Jeep Wrangler JL model with absolute confidence. The box comprises all the components needed for lifting your Jeep between 2 inches and 2.50 inches from the ground for better assurance of undercarriage protection. The coil springs included in this kit consist of a 1st rate for highway driving, as well as maximum expansion during articulation with the M95 shocks for optimized traction; and a 2nd rate for engaging the lower coils to refine heavy off-road suspension movement.
Covered by Limited Lifetime Warranty. For as long as you have the Wrangler on which this kit is installed, SkyJacker will cover it for any defects in material and workmanship
Expert-Level Installation. This kit comprises everything you need to get your lift of up to 2.5 inches. You will need several tools - pliers, a floor jack, measuring tape, and a variety of sockets and wrenches - to complete installation, which requires an expert level of technical expertise and can take up to 4 hours to complete.
Application. The SkyJacker 2-2.50 inch Dual Rate-Long Travel Lift Kit with M95 Shocks fits all 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon 4-door models. It is sold as a kit.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
