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Rugged Ridge 2-Inch Receiver Hitch with Wiring Harness (18-21 Jeep Wrangler JL)

Item J131314-JL
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$186.99 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Today, I'm here with the Rugged Ridge 2 Inch Hitch Receiver with the wiring harness fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. So if your JL came out of the factory without the tow package, but you wanna make sure that it's hooked up with all the towing capabilities, this option by Rugged Ridge is gonna be a great choice to take a look at.There are a number of different benefits from having a hitch receiver mounted up to the back of your Wrangler including mounting up any accessories like bike racks or cargo racks. They're also great to use as an additional recovery point while you're out on the trail. Maybe you've gotten yourself into a sticky situation, and you need a way out. And they're also great for small towing with your Wrangler. This option by Rugged Ridge is going to accomplish all of that while also being stronger than some of the other choices on the page, and it includes the wiring harness as well. This is gonna match the towing capabilities of the JL with a 3500-pound towing capacity and a 350-pound tongue weight while also being made of solid steel with a nice black powder coat finish on top to make sure that it holds up to all of your adventures.Not to mention, again, this does come with a full wiring harness included. So if you are going to tow with your Wrangler, you can stay legal while you're out on the road with the four-pin connector up at the back there. Now, because it does include that wiring harness, this is going to be a little bit more expensive than some of the other more basic choices at roughly $200. When we take a look at some of the other more basic choices, those usually aren't going to have as high of a tow capacity or tongue capacity, and they also again are not going to include that wiring harness, which is beneficial if you are looking to tow with your Wrangler. Now, on the other hand, some of those more expensive choices are usually just gonna have some extra and added bells and whistles. They may include accessories or a stronger coating, or they may be made by premium options like Mopar with the OEM hitch as well as the OEM harness. Now, my personal opinion I think if you're looking to stay right in the middle, you're not looking for all the bells and whistles, but you're looking for something that's going to make your Wrangler completely capable of towing, this option by Rugged Ridge is gonna be a great choice.So install is gonna be a pretty easy one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. There's gonna be some pretty basic wiring that's included but it's nothing that you can't do in your driveway within one hour with some very basic hand tools. So speaking of that install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for this install were drill, a 19-millimeter open-ended wrench, 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 3/8-inch drive, and quarter-inch drive ratchet, the ratchet from the JL tool kit, a 3/32-inch drill bit, a 3-inch extension, the T40 Torx from the JL tool kit, an 18-millimeter, and 12-millimeter socket, a quarter-inch socket, a pair of wire cutters, strippers, and crimpers, a center punch, a flathead screwdriver, and an impact wrench.So our first step to this install is to install our hitch, and then we can go ahead and wire everything up. Now, I have the Jeep up on a lift to give you guys a better visual of what's going on underneath the Jeep, but you do not have to put your Jeep up on a lift or jack it up at all to install this kit. Now, our first step is to remove our L bracket. If you do not have one there, you won't need to remove it. You can just skip to the part where we're gonna mount up the hitch.Our first step for this L bracket is to remove the two bolts that are holding it into the bottom of the bumper. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to remove those. So now the bracket itself is disconnected, but it is wedged in there. So what we're gonna have to do is loosen up the mounting points on each side of the bumper with a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench and kind of pull it back and wiggle this part out. There are two studs that are holding on our bumper. We're gonna loosen up the nuts there with that 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench, and we should be able to wiggle the bumper back just a hair in order to get that bracket. We don't need to fully remove these. We can do the same thing on the other side. So after those are loosened, we can kind of shift our bumper back. It is so connected with a number of different brackets, but we'll be able to push it back and pry out that bracket. So what I'm gonna do is push forward on the bumper.In that same location, we can mount up our hitch. As you can see, on the hitch, we have two welded nuts in the center there. We're gonna grab our longer bolts, the split washer, and a flat washer and hang our hitch from our frame with those two bolts, and then we can put in the other two bolts on this outer side. So for our passenger side outside the mounting location, I'm gonna use the longer provided bolt, a flat washer, and then on the other side, we have another flat washer and a nylon locknut. Now, we're not gonna tighten anything down just yet. We're gonna go ahead and do the other side and attach our wiring harness bracket as well.So I'm gonna start by feeding the bolt through. Before I put it through the other side of the frame, we're gonna take our harness bracket and slide that in between our hitch. And this is gonna line up with the mounting location. You might have to back out the center bolts just to give a little bit of wiggle room there. So what we can do now is take our provided bolt and send that through the frame to the other side, but our wiring harness bracket is gonna sit on top of our hitch there. Then we can continue to secure it down with the flat washer and a nylon locknut.What we can do now is tighten down our hitch bolts. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket for the bolt head side, and for the two outer nuts, I am going to use a 19-millimeter wrench. For the middle two, we'll just need to use that 18-millimeter socket. And again, for this outer bolt, we are gonna be using the 19-millimeter wrench again. So you wanna make sure that the little hook on top of the bracket is sitting on top of the hitch. That's gonna keep it straight. Then we can tighten that down. Now we can start our wiring.Our next step is to head inside the cargo area. We're gonna remove both of our taillights. I'm gonna use the T40 Torx as well as the ratchet that comes in the JL toolkit. So on each side, you're gonna have a small trim piece that's gonna have a little notch in it. What I'm gonna do is just take a small flathead. You could also take a trim removal tool. I'm just gonna pop that up and out, and that will expose the bolt inside of there that's holding on the taillight. I'm gonna use that T40 Torx again, and we can go ahead and remove that bolt. And then we can repeat that process on the other side.Now, that the taillights are technically disconnected, what we can do is pull back on it and disconnect the wiring harness. So I just have a small flathead. Again, I'm gonna pull up on that tab, and we can press this down and pull back. These can kind of be a pain to get separated. So now we can put our taillight aside and do the same thing for our passenger side.Before we hop into the wiring, we have our wiring harness here, and I just wanted to go over a brief overview of how this is going to be set up. So we have two T-fittings. These are going to go into each of our taillights. The one with the green wire is gonna pass over to the passenger side. The one with the brown and the yellow wire is gonna stay here on the driver side. Then we have our control box that we're gonna mount underneath our bumper, and then last but not least, this is your four-pin hitch plug. So this is going to mount to that bracket that we mounted on to our hitch. Now, everything is going to be wired underneath. So we do have on the control box a ground that we're gonna put underneath our Jeep somewhere. And then we have an open wire. This is going to be our positive wire that we're gonna run all the way up to the front and connect to our battery. Now, all of the wiring necessities are included including the butt connectors as well as the ring terminal for up front as well as a couple of different fuses. So, let's go ahead and wire this through.Now, what we're gonna do first is pass everything but the yellow and the brown, the T-connector down through our driver side taillight. So to keep this connected up at the top, what I'm gonna do is actually attach one of the connectors. You just have to connect the one side. This side is going to go to our actual taillight and then just press down on that red tab there. We'll start with our longest connector. This is gonna go down. If you can see, that's where the top of our shock body is. So, just pass it down through this side, and it should fall right beneath the rear bumper. We're gonna pass our hitch connector down. And then our control box is going to follow. So now that everything is passed through to the bottom of the Jeep, we can attach our driver side taillight. So we can just plug this into the other side. Click it in, press down that locking tab, and fit it back into our Wrangler. What we can do now is run all of our wires to the other side.So now that we're over at the passenger side, we can take our taillight connector and pass that up through the same way that we dropped it through on the driver side. All right. So once that's through, we can do the same thing that we did on the driver side, connect these two together, press down that locking tab, reinstall our taillight. And now we can go inside our cargo area and tighten up our taillights.So now we can take our factory hardware, put that in the factory location, take our T40 Torx, and tighten that up. Now, you don't wanna over tighten this. This is spring-loaded. It is plastic. It will stay in place. So once that is tightened down, we can take our trim cover, pop that back in, and then repeat that on the other side.What we can do next is attach our control box that's gonna be with the provided tape. I'm gonna put it on the bottom of the frame here, but you can put this wherever you like wherever is most suitable for you. Now, we also are gonna attach our ground at the same time, we do get a self-tapping screw for that, and we are gonna drill a small hole to make sure that this has a good ground.So I'm gonna attach this at the bottom here. First, I'll stick it to the control box and peel back that tape. We just wanna make sure that all these wires are away from our exhaust system. Give it a good press. Then we can take our ground wire, and we can drill a small hole in the front of this control box and mount it right up there.So first, I'm gonna take a center punch and make a mark. Then we can drill a 3/32-inch hole. Now, we can take a quarter-inch socket, our ground, and our self-tapping screw and tap that into the frame.What we can do next is hook up our power wire. This is the provided wire that we're gonna run all the way to the front of the Jeep and connect to our battery. Now, you are provided with the connector as well. You're gonna have to strip the end of this with a wire stripper. So what we're gonna do is attach one side of the wire. This is on the control box side. Then we can crimp it down with pair of wire crimpers. Make sure that it's in there. Then we can take the other side that we already stripped, put that in the other side of the connector, and crimp that down. Make sure it's good. All right. Now we can run this up to the front of the Jeep, making sure that we tuck it up against the frame. Now, you wanna make sure that you keep it away from any moving parts. So I'm running this behind the body mounts up against the frame. Rugged Ridge does say that you should do it that way. Now, what you could also do if you don't want this exposed to the elements rubbing up against your frame is run it inside your cab area along your trim, but then you'll have to pass it through the firewall. So, it does depend on how you want to do it, but this is the way that Rugged Ridge suggests.So once we get this all the way up to the front inside our engine bay, which it looks like we have some pretty good room, what we're gonna do is tie everything up out of the way. So I just ran this up along the side of our battery box here or our battery tray. Then what we can do with our positive wire is take the inline fuse that's provided. This is just gonna be a fuse case. We are provided with a 15 amp fuse. We're gonna go ahead and cut this off at the middle and wire this into our power wire and then wire the other side of this to our battery. So with the same wire strippers, we can cut and strip this wire. Just gonna cut it right in the middle and strip the wire. So one side is gonna get the eyelet. We can crimp that down. Then the other side is going to get spliced into our power wire. Do the same thing that we did with the back. So once that's together, we can attach this to our positive terminal. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket. Once that's attached, then we can attach our fuse, close that back up, and we can go back and zip tie and clean up all of our wiring.You are provided with a ton of zip ties in the kit. So you just wanna make sure that you zip tie everything out of the way away, away from moving components as well as away from a hot exhaust. After everything's tucked up and out of the way, then you're all set to go.So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe, and for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Designed With a 3,500-Pound Towing Capacity
      • Features a 350-Pound Tongue Weight
      • Manufactured Using Premium-Quality Steel
      • Black Powder Coated Finish
      • Includes a Plug and Play Wire Harness
      • Measures 16 x 8 Inches
      • Weighs 16 Pounds
      • Simple Bolt-On Installation
      • Backed by a 5-Year Limited Warranty
      • Fits 2018-2021 Jeep Wrangler JL Models


      Better Hauling Power. If your Jeep Wrangler pulls double-duty and requires a quality receiver hitch, then this Rugged Ridge 2-inch Receiver Hitch a with Wiring Harness is for you. Featuring a 3,500-pound towing capacity, this Receiver Hitch will help you tow anything from heavy trailers, supplies, and even vehicles. This Receiver Hitch is also perfect for emergency recovery operations whether it’s you or another driver who’s stuck.

      Premium Construction. This Rugged Ridge Receiver Hitch is manufactured using premium solid steel. The entire Hitch is constructed using a 1-piece welded assembly designed to provide more strength needed for those heavy pulling operations. This Receiver Hitch is completed with a black powder coated finish that effectively prevents rust and corrosion.

      Simple Bolt-On Installation. Rugged Ridge designed this Receiver Hitch for a simple bolt-on installation process. All the necessary hardware you need is included and no drilling, cutting, or welding is required.

      Backed by a 5-Year Warranty. This Rugged Ridge Receiver Hitch is backed by a 5-year limited warranty. This warranty covers defects in material and workmanship and is only extended to the original purchaser of this receiver hitch. This 5-year limited warranty is non-transferrable. For more details, please visit the official site of Rugged Ridge.

      Application. This Rugged Ridge 2-inch Receiver Hitch a with Wiring Harness will fit all 2018-2021 Jeep Wrangler JL models.

      Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 2021

      Rugged Ridge 11580.57

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Receiver Hitch
      • (1) Wire Harness
      • (4) Mounting Bolts
      • (4) Nylon Nuts
      • (8) Flat Washers

      Customer Reviews (100+)

        Questions & Answers

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