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Hi, guys. So, today we're checking out the Rock-Slide Engineering Step Sliders, fitting all 2020 and newer Gladiator JTs. So, if you are looking for the ultimate protection for your pinch weld and your rocker area, but you're also looking for premium accessibility for your truck, this is going to be a great choice to take a look into. Now, these steps, as they fit with the doors closed, are going to act as rocker protection or a rock slider. So, as you can see, this is going to be very similar to a Rubi rail, except for it is gonna be a little bit extended out from the body, which will be great if you are out on the trail and you don't want anything hitting the side body of your truck. And this is also gonna come with underbody protection or a skid down at the bottom to make sure that your pinch weld underneath there is heavily protected. Now, these are gonna be incredibly durable, made of an 11-gauge CNC-cut steel. So, you can ensure that these are gonna hold up whether you are rock crawling on the trail or you're daily driving your truck. If somebody opens up their door in a parking lot, these are going to take the blow instead of the body of your truck. Not to mention, this is gonna have a nice textured black powder coat finish to protect that steel underneath, but this is also going to match with any other heavy-duty accessories and really add a more aggressive and off-road look to the side of your truck.Now, the big thing about this is the fact that when the doors are shut, this is gonna act as a rocker panel or a rock slider. And then once you open up the door, the step is going to fold out. Now, what I like about this is the fact that this is gonna give you some accessibility down at the bottom here. So, if you have a lifted Gladiator, this is going to give you a pretty big drop-down step. Now, you're gonna have a large surface at the front for the front doors on both sides, and then you're gonna have a smaller surface on the back for your passengers. Now, this is also gonna have a nice grip taped down at the bottom so on those weather days you're not slipping around on the side steps. And overall, it's gonna give you the best accessibility for getting in and out of your Jeep. And even if you wanna take your freedom panels off, you can utilize these as well. Now, with that being said, these are gonna come in at roughly $2,200, which is a pretty steep price point. However, with the quality and the construction, and the overall accessibility with these, I definitely think that that price point is worth it, and there's a couple of reasons why. Now, overall, of course, we're getting that drop-down step whenever we need it, whenever we open up the door. But this is going to be incredibly durable like I said before. These are really able to handle some abuse with how they're set up, even with this power step integrated into the rock slider itself.Now, the motor that operates the step itself is also gonna be waterproofed and the wiring harness is completely put together and it's completely plug and play. So, overall, these are pretty easy to install and they're very user-friendly. And, again, they are going to be incredibly durable. Now, in comparison to some other choices for side steps, a lot of those are gonna be less expensive because they are not powered. Now, this right now is one of the only options available for a power step. However, if you take a look at some other power steps, historically, they are not gonna be set up like this. Some options may flip down from the rocker panel itself, instead of being stored in the rock slider like this one is. Now, I personally like this setup because this is going to offer a little bit more protection and it's not gonna hang down like some of those other power steps would. And overall, this is just going to be tailored for the off-roader who wants premium accessibility and they're not afraid to bang up their side step because, overall, this is going to hold up. Now, as far as install is concerned, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. And the only reason why I give it a two out of three is just because this is a lengthy and detailed process. However, it is pretty easy to bolt these on and wire them up. The wiring harness is completely plug and play and really just gonna need some pretty basic hand tools and about two hours worth of your time. So, speaking of that install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for my install were a tape measure, a pneumatic and electric impact wrench, a pair of scissors, a dead blow, a flathead screwdriver, a trim removal tool, a 13-millimeter and 11-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a quarter-inch drive ratchet, an 18, 13, 10, and 8-millimeter socket, a T40 Torx socket, panel removal tools, and an electric ratchet.So, the first step to this install is to prep our pinch weld. So, we're gonna remove the two 10-millimeter bolts up at the front here. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket in order to do that. So, our next step is underneath the Jeep, we're going to loosen up the three body mount bolts because we have to slide our bracket into that that holds our step slider. So, I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket, I'm also gonna use a pneumatic impact wrench in order to do this. But we don't need to take them out completely, we just need to loosen them up because the bracket slips between the bolt head and this washer here. Then we can repeat that for the front and rear body bolts.So, now that the body bolts are loosened up, we can install our brackets that are gonna hold our step slider. We have one for the rear, which is gonna be the taller bracket, we have one for the middle that is going to be the flat bracket, and then we have one for the front that is going to be the short bracket. Now, we can head underneath the Jeep and we can install them on the body bolt in between the bolt head and the washer. Now, this is just gonna hang there just like that. Like I said, it's gonna go in between the bolt head and that flat washer there. And then we can repeat that for the other two mounts. Now, I may have a tough time going on. What I usually do is just grab a dead blow and just give it a good tap. And that should knock it into place. Now, we can do the same thing for the front. Now, the front is not gonna be able to be installed straight on like this or head-on like that, so what we need to do is put it at a 45-degree angle and then we can wiggle it into place. So what we need to next is install this guard. Now, this is gonna prevent any metal on metal contact or the slider itself contacting the side of your...on the rocker panel here. So, this is going to have a little gasket that's gonna protect it there. It's gonna have 3M on the back. We're gonna stick it on in just a second, but we wanna measure it out because it gonna be a little bit precise. Now, from this bend down for the front longer seal here, we wanna make sure that it's about a half-inch down of that bend. So, I'm just gonna take my measuring tape and a dry erase marker and just make a mark just so we have a reference point because the back is going to be a little bit different. Now, we can go to the back. So, this one is going to be about 5/8 of an inch down. So, I'm just gonna line it up just because this is a little bit difficult to see. I'm gonna line it up with that two-inch mark, go down to about 5/8 of an inch.Now, again, just as a reference point, this straight edged surface is gonna match right up with the smaller piece. And we wanna make sure that it's on this seam on the back here. So, we're gonna line it up originally there, and then we can stick it down. So what I'm gonna do is just peel this and make a little tail so we can line up the front and the back and then we can just continue to peel the rest of the backing off once we have it lined up correctly. So we're gonna go off of our reference point, which is about a half-inch down for the front. But we wanna make sure that it's up against here. So, I'm just gonna continue to pull this backing out. And then we can repeat that process with the back gasket.So, what we need to do next is attach our extension piece here to the main part of our step slider. There is gonna be a little spacer that we're gonna put in between, and we're gonna use our provided hardware in order to attach this. Pop this into place. Push these together, and we can start to loosely secure them down. We're not gonna tighten anything down just yet, we wanna make sure that all four bolts are installed, and then we can go back and tighten them up. So, there's gonna be two on the bottom here, and then there's gonna be two up top that are a little bit harder to see, but it's the same process. We're gonna have a flat washer on each side. And then now that all of those are lined up, what we can do is take a 13-millimeter socket and a 13-millimeter wrench, and we can tighten those up. Now, while we're here, we can take the wiring harness from our motor and we can drop that down through this little hole here because we're gonna need to access it once we make sure that everything is mounted up, we're gonna need to be able to plug this in. So, at this point, what we're gonna do is grab a friend and we're going to mount up our side step. There are studs here that are gonna go in our pinch weld to hang the step slider onto the pinch weld area. And we also wanna make sure that these brackets here go over the mounting brackets on the slider itself.So at this point with the studs through our pinch weld area, what we can do is secure them down. They are gonna be different sizes depending on which stud you're working on. So, we're gonna take the flat washer and the nylon lock nut that's provided, and we can secure those down. Now, for the back one here, we're gonna have a large one on the end and a smaller one on the inside. Now, we're not gonna tighten anything down just yet, we're gonna make sure that everything is on and secure, and then we can tighten everything up. So, once that hardware is threaded on the back studs here, we can repeat that process for the other studs.So, at this point, what we can do is attach the slider to our bracket. We're gonna be provided with bolts as well as flat washers. And there's gonna be a welded nut on the back of the bracket, so we can just start to thread those in. Because we didn't tighten anything up yet, we can move it around in order to get that bracket lined up. But we're gonna have four bolts per bracket. And once those are threaded in on this back one, we can repeat that same process for the other ones, then we can go back and tighten everything up. So, what we can do next is tighten down the slider to the bracket here. I'm gonna use a 13-millimeter socket in order to that and we can repeat that for the other 2 brackets as well. Next, we can tighten down the hardware that's on the studs here. I'm gonna use a 13-millimeter and an 11-millimeter ratcheting wrench to do that. Then we can repeat that for the other six studs. Last but not least, we're gonna tighten up our body mount bolts with that same 18-millimeter deep socket. And we can repeat that for the other two body bolts.So, the bolt on the pinch weld that we took out at our first step, we're gonna reinstall right up at the corner here. Now, this is gonna keep part of our quarter panel installed on the side. So, there is a pre-drilled hole here. I'm just gonna go ahead and thread that in. And then we can take our 10-millimeter socket and tighten that up. Now, next on the side of our step slider here, there are little pre-drilled holes. We also have the plugs for these, so we're just going to take our provided plugs and put those in each of those pre-drilled holes. So, once everything is complete on this side, we can repeat that same process on the other side, and then we can get into our wiring. So, before we hop into the wiring, I did wanna stop down and show you guys the wiring harness. It is a big wiring harness and it may look a little bit overwhelming, but everything is plug and play, and Rock-Slide Engineering does include a very helpful and very detailed wiring diagram in their instructions. So, it is actually very easy to operate and to use.So, this wiring harness is split into a couple of different pieces, we're gonna have our driver's side and our passenger's side. I personally like to label everything. It makes it a little bit easier when we're actually in the installation process. Now, on each side, we're going to have a sensor for the front and the rear door, we're also going to have a driver's side and passenger's side actuator. And then there's also gonna be a wire for an LED light. Now, we do not have that. It's not included in this kit. However, you can add that on and that wire is going to be integrated into the wiring harness. So, it's very easy if you'd like to add it on in the future. Now, you're also going to have a switch wire. This is going to turn the power on and off. That is going to be helpful for when you take the doors off because the sensors are actually integrated into the door itself. Then we're going to have a wire for our battery. This is gonna go up to a couple of leads that have an inline fuse that's going to be attached to the negative and positive terminal on the battery. And then we're gonna have a full control box that's just going to be the brain for this whole operation. So, overall, it does look a little bit overwhelming. It is a large wiring harness. However, because everything is plug and play and because they make it very easy to label everything and put everything in the correct place, it is going to be pretty easy to wire this up. So, what do you say we start disconnecting some of our trim and start plugging in our wires?So, what we're gonna do first is pull out some of the side trim. This is gonna allow us to tuck the wiring harness underneath the carpet and underneath the trim so it has a very clean look. So, I'm gonna start up at the front. We're gonna disconnect this door and we're gonna push it out so we have some room to work with. Then we're gonna pull up some of this trim over on the side. So, our first step is just to pull off this piece here. And if you've pulled your doors off before, you should be familiar with this step. We're gonna disconnect the door wiring harness. I find it a little bit easier just to grab a trim removal tool and pop that up or a flathead screwdriver or something. Then we can unhook our limiting strap, and then we can unbolt our door stopper here. I'm gonna use a T40 Torx socket for that. Once that's taken out, we can carefully open up our door. I'm gonna give it some room to work with. So what I'm gonna do now is disconnect where this wiring harness is clipped in. It's just held in by a clip on the back. I'm gonna take just a pry tool and just pop that out of place. So, once that's off, we can get that out of the way. Then we can take a 10-millimeter socket and we can remove this nut that's holding on part of our trim over here.So, once the hardware is removed from here, what we can do is start to peel the trim away from the body. Just be mindful of this hook here. You don't want to break these pieces of plastic. I'm actually going to pull from the back. I'm just gonna give it a good tug. It might be helpful to take out the floor mat if you have a factory floor mat. So, once we pull that forward, you can see that it's gonna try to pop back into place. We can carefully unhook it from here, move it outward. So, once it's disconnected from here, what we can do is just put this to the side. And then we can do the same thing for the middle piece. Now, this middle piece is gonna come off as well, and I'm just going to pop out this little trim piece over by the bottom of our seat belt. This is gonna push inward. Then we can do the same thing for our trim. This is just gonna be held in by a number of clips. Now, this may be helpful if you move the seat forward, and then we can start to go to the back for our trim.So, at this point what we can do is continue to pop this trim forward. So, I'm actually gonna take off this piece and get this out of the way. And then we can take that same pry tool and just continue to pop the trim forward. This is all gonna be held together by clips. And you're gonna wanna push it in towards the cab area. That's how it's connected. So, we don't need to disconnect this trim piece all the way. What we need to do is just make sure that there's enough access or room to work with down below so we can pull up the carpet. And we're gonna send a wiring harness through the floor of the Gladiator so we can connect it to our step. But now that everything is disconnected on this side, what we can do is repeat that same process on the other side, then we can lay out our wiring harness. So, down at the bottom, we do need to disconnect our little storage container here. It's held in by four T40 Torx bolts. I removed the two on this side already. I'm going to use the T40 Torx bit that I have as well as my impact wrench to remove the other two. And then we can get this out of the way because we will need to pull up the carpet so we can run our wiring, but this is holding it down for the time being.So, once all four are removed, what we can do is just pop this out of place. Put this to the side and we'll reinstall this in just a minute. Then I'm gonna take this jack out of the way as well, and this can go back. As you can see, this is now a lot easier to pop out of place. And we can access where we need to put our wire through and where we need to run our wiring harness. So, there is a little piece of tape here that I'm gonna pull back. This is covering one of the access holes. So, once that tape is pulled back, I'm just gonna take a flathead screwdriver and just peel up on this. It's gonna be held in by some glue. Just need to pry up on the glue to undo that. Once that seal is broken there, it'll pull right up. So, what we're gonna do here is put our wiring harness over the carpet right now. Then we can take our passenger's side wires, which is the shorter loom of wires, and we can put this through where our storage box was mounted. I'm gonna pull this all the way through, then we can flip it back. Now, here's where it's helpful to identify your wires. So, our actuator wire, this is what is going to be plugged into the step itself. That's what's gonna go through this hole here. So, we're going to isolate that wire. This should be the red and the black on the passenger's side. I'm actually just gonna pull off my label since now we know. Then we can send it through that hole on the floor.Now, what we can do is identify our sensor wire. So, on the passenger's side, the rear sensor is gonna be the white and blue. That is gonna go over on the side here, and then we're gonna run our sensor for the passenger's side front up towards the front. So, we're not gonna plug these in just yet, we're getting them in place. And our last wire is gonna be that LED wire. This is color-coded as well in the wiring diagram. I put some electrical tape over here because we're not gonna be utilizing that. So, I'm just gonna tuck that under the carpet and that's where it's gonna live. What we can do now is attach our sensor. Now, this is gonna go right underneath our striker here. So, I am going to take the provided alcohol wipe and just prep where this needs to go. I'll let that dry for a second. Then while that's drying, what we can do is attach 3M tape on the back here. And we can put this...make sure that's dry, put this into place directly under that striker. Give it a good press. We're also going to have a piece of 3M to make sure that this wire sticks here. I'm going to stick it on the part of the body there that we need it to go on. And we can actually just tuck it back. So, for the back, we don't need all of this excess film to cover our wires. Now, very carefully, what I'm gonna do is just trim this. So, I just have a pair of scissors. I'm just going to trim the back here.So, now that that's trimmed, what we can do is tuck this wire in and take our passenger's side rear sensor wire, and we can start to run it up. And it's gonna be tough behind here. Now, it might be a little bit difficult to see just because this trim is not really gonna have a lot of give. We are able to push it out of the way enough just to get it tucked. Now, once that's tucked up there, we can finish tucking it up in just a second. We're gonna plug this in first. So, again, this is the passenger's side rear door sensor. Take off our label. And this is the blue and white. Plug that in. I'm gonna tuck this in the trim. So, then we can repeat that process with the front door sensor. This is gonna be the passenger front sensor. It's gonna be the gray and the green wire, but we're really just gonna repeat that as far as sticking our actual sensor itself underneath our striker here. So, once that's stuck on underneath, what we can do is just peel this part back. And this is where that excess protective film comes in handy. So, I'm just gonna stick it right in that corner and wrap it around. You also wanna make sure that this wire isn't in the way of any of the clips, as well as the seat belt. But once we figure that out, what we can do, put that into place. We can get rid of our label, and then we can move to our actuator wire. So, our actuator wire is actually underneath there. And then we'll pop the trim on.So, now that we are finished with our sensors, we can put together our actuator wires and our actuator plug. So, you are gonna be provided a plug here. This just allows you to have a smaller thing to route through the floor instead of routing this whole plug through the floor. But we are going to make sure that we are color-coding it correctly. It is gonna be color-coded on the plug itself. And this is also included for the LED lights. So, if you do have the LED lights, there is going to be color-coded plugs for that as well. So, what I'm gonna do is just put the red, black to black. And you're gonna hear a little click. And then once you hear that, you can close this clip, and that's gonna keep it secure. Now, once that's secure, what we can do is point it into the plug that we pass down from the step. And then once that's clipped together, what we can do is start to tuck this up and put our trim back together on this side. So, what I'm actually gonna do is just put this sticker back into place. I did pull the plug up as far as I could. Now, the excess wiring underneath, we can clean up with a zip tie to make sure that it's not hanging down. But if you pull this up as far as you can, it shouldn't hang down too much. I'm just going to put this seal back over top. It is pretty thick tape. So, this will stay in place and make sure that this is sealed. And then what we can do is start to put everything back together. So, I'm going to place the carpet back down, maneuver this back under the spectrum piece. Make sure that this is out of the way here. We can take our kicker panel, making sure that it's out of the way of everything. Start to slide it into place. So, now we can put our kicker panel back into place. You just have to give it a good tap. We can reinstall this 10-millimeter nut that was holding part of the kicker panel on. Now we can put our door back together.So, first, I'm going to install the bolt for the door stopper. Tighten that up with a T40 Torx. Then we can attach our limiting strap, our wiring harness here. We can actually plug this back in or pop that back in to the clip. Pull down on that white retainer, push down that red locking tab, and then we can pop this part of the kicker panel back down to cover that up. So, once that is all back together, we can repeat that same process on the other side. So, once we have plugged in our sensor wires and our actuator wire, what we can do is install our control box. Now, as you can see, there's this big plug in the middle of our wiring harness here. We're just going to plug that into the main control box. And this is actually just gonna sit up underneath our rear seat. All right. We're gonna tuck that there for now. We can secure it down if we need to in a minute, but we're going to run the rest of our wiring harness up towards the front so we can connect our switch and our battery. So, on the driver's side, we're gonna have two extra wires that we're gonna run up to the front. Now, I'm gonna run them just where I did with the driver's side front sensor wire. This is gonna go underneath the trim, and it's actually gonna pop out up at the kicker panel up at the front, and then we can connect it to the battery, connect it to the switch, and tuck everything up. I'm just gonna pull this through just like we did with this wire. This is just gonna sit up at the front. We can start to place this back down into place. I'm not gonna connect it just yet. I'm just gonna wait until everything is in place before we do that.So, this may be a little bit difficult to see, but right above your OBD2 plug here, you're gonna have an 8-millimeter bolt. Now, I'm gonna remove that because we're gonna mount up our switch to this. So, our switch is going to mount where that bolt is. And we're going to have our switch here so we can easily access it. So, I'm gonna take out that 8-millimeter bolt with an 8-millimeter socket. All right. Now, that's gonna fall down for the time being. Then we can take our bracket, just gonna sit like this. So, we can grab our switch and pop that into place. That's just gonna pop through the front. And then you need a little bit of pressure there. Then we're gonna have three prongs. We're gonna take our switch wire. We're gonna have three prongs. The back one, upper one is gonna be our ground, then red and red, it's gonna be on the silver. Now, we're gonna have one more ground wire that we'll tuck in just a second, but we can actually attach this ground wire to that bolt to get a good ground. Take off our little label here, and we can grab our 8-millimeter bolt. So, once you have the OBD2 bracket and the switch bracket mounted up together, we can start to snug that up. What I also wanna do is take this ground wire and make sure that this is sandwiched in between the bolt and the OBD2 bracket. So, this may be difficult to see as I'm tightening it up, but you'll get a better view in just a second.So, what we're gonna do next is take our smaller wiring harness for our battery. We're gonna take the two plugs and we're gonna put them through the firewall, connect them, and then we'll connect this to the battery. So, our first step is to make a hole in the firewall, which there is an access hole right on this side of our brake master cylinder here. It may be a little bit difficult to see, but it's gonna be tucked up right in this corner. I'm just gonna use a flathead screwdriver and pop that out of place. It's gonna look like that. Then we can take the two connectors and run them straight. Now, we're gonna be back on the inside real quick and plug them in. So, these are gonna drop right to the left of the brake pedal. And then what we can do is find our labelled battery wire and peel off our label there, then we can plug this in. So, red to red, black to black. Now, once that's connected, what we can do is pull it through towards the engine bay. That's gonna get rid of a lot of this excess wire here, our wires that we connected over here. We're gonna run these over towards our battery. I'm gonna tuck them underneath some of these connectors here. So, I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket and remove the 2 nuts here. Just gonna pop these under just to make sure that they are secure. All right. Then we can reconnect those. And we'll be able to zip tie those up just to make sure that they're not falling down completely. Tighten that back up. Then we can go to the other side and do the same thing and then connect it to the battery.So, if we pull this trim forward, what we can do is tuck the wire into this wiring harness. Now, once that's through, we can tighten that back up. The same 10-millimeter socket. Tuck it over here next to our fuse box just to keep that taut. And then we can connect it to our battery. So, we're gonna have our positive lead and our negative lead. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to connect our negative wire. Then we can take the same 10-millimeter socket and connect our positive wire. So, once everything is tucked and connected, what we can do is start to put our trim back together. This is just gonna be the same process that we did on the passenger's side. So, I'm just gonna put our trim back in place. The front piece is gonna tuck under the rear piece. So, this might be a little difficult at first. So, what we can do now is reinstall our jack. So, this is gonna slide into this little bolt right here, then we can line up our knob. Secure that down. And this just threads on. Tuck our control box on top of that. Then we can grab our storage container, we're gonna line that back up, then we can take the factory bolts, thread those in place.Once those are threaded, we can take our T40 Torx and tighten them up. Cool. Then we can flip our seats back down, making sure that this is not getting in the way so we can actually just pull that back. And then we can reinstall our kicker panel. So, what we can do is start to tuck these wires. You could also zip tie them. However, these are just gonna sit right in the back here. We can start to maneuver our panel back into place. So, once this is in place, what we can is secure the nut back down on the stud. Go around the side here using our 10-millimeter socket. And then we can re-secure our door. So, first, we're gonna start by installing our door stopper over on the side. So, we can tighten that up with our T40 Torx. Then we can reinstall our limiting strap, plug our harness back in. We might have to pull down on a little bit to get that clip to go. Secure the red locking tab, and we can put this back into place. It is gonna be a little bit tight now, now that that bracket is there. Okay. So, our last step is to install our magnets on our doors. Now, just like we installed our sensor right below our striker, what we're gonna do is install the magnet that's going to actuate the sensor and make our step come out. We're going to attach it right below the striker as well. So, you wanna measure it out. You can take out a tape measure in order to do this, but you're gonna get a magnet and a piece of 3M tape. Take the backing off of the magnet and one piece of backing off the 3M. I also wiped it with the provided alcohol wipe as well. So, once that 3M is on the magnet, you can pull that off. We can measure if we need to or we can just line it up. So, you can measure if you need to. I'm just gonna measure from the magnet or the sensor to the middle of the striker. And then we can do the same thing for the door. So, that's where the middle of the striker is. Magnet should go on about here. Then we can repeat that process for the other three doors. So, the last step is just to flip this switch, and that's gonna run power through the steps. They're gonna come on either side, and then we can close up the doors and they should flip back in.So, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this. And always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Functional Solid Steps. If you’re looking to add side steps to your Jeep Gladiator, then opt for these Rock-Slide Engineering Step Sliders. These functional solid steps provide safer vehicle access since they are automatically dropped down up to 12 inches every time you open your truck’s door. With this low drop, it's also one of the best slider options for lifted Gladiators.
Tough Steel Construction. This pair of step sliders sport a tough steel construction. With this type of build, they are able to withstand the daily beating of your Jeep’s harsh driving conditions. Furthermore, each step slider is completed with a black, textured powder-coat finish to fortify its defenses against rust and corrosion.
Bolt-On Installation. Installing these electric step sliders may take a few hours to complete. However, each component is designed to directly bolt onto your truck’s existing points. You also don’t need to perform any cutting or drilling for a hassle-free installation.
Backed by a 3-Year Limited Warranty. Rock-Slider Engineering is backing these step sliders with a 3-year limited warranty. If your purchased item sustains damages during the covered period, you may contact customer service to help you with your concerns and assist you with your warranty claim. For more warranty information, you may visit RSE’s official website.
Application. The Rock-Slide Engineering Step Sliders are created to fit 2020-2022 Jeep Gladiator JT models.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
