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Merideth: Hey, guys. So, today we're checking out the Flowmaster FlowFX Single Side Exhaust System with the Black Tip, fitting all 2020 and newer 3.6-liter Gladiator JTs. Now, this will be a great pick for the JT owners in search of not only a good-sounding exhaust but a good-looking one at the same time. Now, this exhaust system will offer a nice deep tone to the 3.6-liter without a crazy amount of volume, which is great for the Gladiator owner who wants to hear their exhaust but doesn't want a system that's going to be obnoxious or overbearing. With that being said, when it comes to the loudness meter, I'm giving this a two outta five, with one being completely stock and five being awake the neighbors loud, giving this a good volume level for the daily driver. Now, when it comes to the construction, this will feature the FlowFX straight-through performance muffler, which is responsible for that sound and slight increase in power due to improving that airflow.This will also consist of 3-inch mandrel bent 409 stainless steel tubing for again smooth and direct airflow, but also some good rust resistance. Now, the large tip on the end will be a bit higher quality when it comes to the materials, making sure that this will look good for the lifetime of your truck made of a 304 stainless steel construction, covered in a nice black ceramic coating. Not to mention, this whole exhaust is going to be direct bolt-on and comes with everything you need to get this onto your truck, making the install hassle-free and very straightforward. Now, jumping into price, this exhaust comes in roughly $575, making this more on the affordable side for an exhaust system. Now, when comparing this to other choices, what I like about this kit is the fact that this is not gonna be over the top when it comes to sound while still getting a pretty deep rumble out of the exhaust.Now, other choices for side exits may be set up a little bit differently when it comes to the sound level, being a little bit louder than this choice. They also may integrate a dual side exit in comparison to the singular one or a full 304 stainless steel construction, which is very high-quality materials, which will cost you an extra couple of bucks there. Now, I think if you're looking to save a couple of bucks on a good-looking and sounding cat-back system, then this is going to be the exhaust to choose. When it comes to the install, this will be a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about an hour to get the job done with some basic hand tools. And one of our installers here is gonna show you how to get that process done step-by-step. So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review, let's go ahead and get into the install.Man 1: The tools you'll need for this installation include penetrating oil, an impact gun, an electric or regular ratchet, 10-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, and 18-millimeter sockets, a socket extension, gloves, and ipro [SP]. What's up, everybody? Today, we have a cat-back exhaust system for our '20 Gladiator, and we previously did the uninstall, and we're gonna show you that footage now, then I'll be back to show you how to install it step-by-step.Man 2: Okay, guys, first step obviously is we're gonna have to remove our factory exhaust. Now, we have our Gladiator up on a lift to give you guys some better angles to show you exactly what we're doing underneath the Jeep. And the way we're gonna do this is gonna preserve our factory exhaust. If you don't care about your factory exhaust, it might be easier just to cut it off, but we are gonna show you how to get this off while preserving the piping. So, let's go ahead and get started. All right, guys, first thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna remove the skid plate here and that's so we can drop the front end of the exhaust down, that will make it a little bit easier to kind of work its way out. The factory exhaust is basically one piece from the Y-pipe all the way back to the tailpipe. So, what we're first gonna do is we have a 13-mill bolt or a nut right here we're gonna remove, and then we have four 18-millimeter bolts here and then two up front here that we're gonna remove, and that'll let us get the skid plate down.Like I said, guys, that one we just did was a 13-millimeter and the next four are all gonna be 18-millimeter sockets you're gonna need. All right, guys, now before I do the front two, make sure you're supporting it with your hand because once you loosen these, the skid plate's gonna wanna drop on you. All right, guys, now this point back is what we're gonna be removing. So, this clamp here, we're gonna loosen. You're gonna need a 13-mil socket for this ball clamp. Now, unlike a regular flat clamp, these ball clamps have a kind of a curved edge that kind of cup around the end of the flange here. So, you have to loosen it quite a bit in order to slide this out eventually. So, we have that pretty good loose, so we're gonna move to the next step. All right, guys, now we're gonna pull back on this lock tab. This is just kind of to prevent the clamp from sliding at all. So, just get a screwdriver in there, pull that back. All right, guys, now we're right near the tailpipe and this is the rearmost hanger. We're gonna remove this bracket because it is the one bracket that is pointing in an opposite direction from the other hangers further forward on the exhaust. We're gonna use a 13-mil sock on these two bolts as well.All right, guys, now just to get it out of our way, we're gonna pull this hanger off. You're gonna have to pull it out a little bit and rotate it down. There's this little tab right here that hooks into the frame rail. So, you need to get it away from there. You should be able to just pull this out like that. All right, guys, now go ahead and assemble a tool that comes with your Jeep. We're going to lower our spare tire, get that out of the way, and then also remove the spare tire guard to finish getting out our exhaust pipe. Now, this tool basically goes into a plastic sleeve that's behind the bumper here. Once you get that in, you can't twist it by hand, then you know you're on the...it's kind of like a bolt back in there that the end of this tool goes on and we're gonna use it just like a socket wrench. And then the lug wrench here has a square opening in it, put that in the end here. All right. With a bunch of slack let out, guys, you don't wanna drop it all the way to the ground, might wanna be able to get a hand underneath your tire, lift your tire up. And there's a black bracket the tire rests on, slide it up the cable, and get it through the lug hole.All right, guys. Now, to remove the heat shield that protects our spare tire, you're gonna have five bolts, they're all 10-millimeter. There's three up here that are gonna be very hard if not impossible for you guys to see on camera here, but we're gonna take those three out first. All right. All right. Then we have the last two right here, again, 10-millimeter. All right, guys, now at this step, we only have two hangers that are holding our exhaust pipe up and they are both pointing towards the front, which means with the help of my friend back here, we're gonna slide the entire pipe backwards out of these two hangers and then drop it down and actually pull it forward to clear the rear axle.Man 1: All right. We're ready to start installing our Flowmaster cat-back exhaust. And we're gonna start up by the front of the Jeep by the Y-pipe. So, we got our Flowmaster muffler and we're gonna connect it right here by the Y-pipe. And we're gonna reuse the factory clamp, and to secure this, we're gonna loosely fasten it with our 13-millimeter socket. For this step, we need the Flowmaster mid-pipe along with one of the supplied clamps, and we're also gonna take the exhaust hanger that we removed during uninstall and the two 13-millimeter bolts. We're gonna put this all together right here. First, we're gonna slide our clamp over our muffler, and we're gonna slide our mid-pipe into the muffler. Now, for this exhaust, the mid-pipe here, it's gonna be hung with the hanger actually facing downwards. All right. Once you got that slid into place, we're gonna put our hanger/isolator back on, slide it onto the exhaust hanger itself. And I'm just gonna attach this by hand a couple of the bolt...with the two bolts. All right. Once we have that in place, let's take our 15-millimeter socket and snug this down, just enough so that we still have room to adjust. And I'm gonna go ahead and tighten down the hanger bolts as well. And again, this is the 13-millimeter socket.So, it was a little tricky to slip this over axle pipe onto the mid-pipe from this position. So, what I did is I went ahead and tighten this down a little bit, just so it didn't move around so much as I'm slipping this on. There you go. And if you kind of wiggle it a little bit to seat it and to get it started and seated, it makes it a little easier as well. All right. From this point, I'm gonna go ahead and put the bolts through the isolators and tighten them down. So, this isolator is actually on backwards, so flip it so it's facing in the right way. And if you left your exhaust loose enough, you should be able to adjust it as needed at least enough to get this started. So, I'm gonna go ahead and start them by hand. And then also while we're here, let's tighten down this clamp just enough so it doesn't move around on us.All right. Let's move on to the other isolator. All right. Remember this isolator def [SP] actually has two hooks on the back of it. Just make sure that you line those up, get those into place, and then start your two bolts by hand. I'm gonna go ahead and tighten these down while I'm here. And again, this is the 13-millimeter socket that we're using for our isolator bolts. Now we got our exhaust tip, you can go ahead and place this on and face it in the direction that you see fit, how you like it aesthetically. I kind of like it so it follows the line of the body, but, you know, it wouldn't be everybody's cup of tea. And then we can tighten this down with our 15-millimeter socket. And then as you can see, it is kind of close to the body here. So, when we go through and come over all our nuts and bolts to make sure everything's tight and lined up properly, I'm probably gonna adjust this just so it's a little further away from the body. I grabbed my 13-millimeter and my 15-millimeter sockets as well as my impact. And I'm gonna go through and make sure all my clamps are tight, starting with the clamp here at the Y-pipe using my 13-mil.All right. And then just go through and make sure all your clamps are tight. Now I got my electric ratchet and my 13-millimeter socket. I'm gonna go through and make sure that my isolator bolts are tightened down. All right. These are good. So, just repeat the steps for the other two isolators to make sure they're tightened as well. All right. Now, we're putting up the factory equipment that we took down during uninstall. I'm starting here with the skid plate. Once you got your four bolts in by hand, take your 18-millimeter socket and tighten them down. And then don't forget your 13-millimeter nut that goes on right here. Now we're putting our spare tire shield back up, and it's three 10-millimeter bolts and two 10-millimeter nuts. Now we're getting ready to put our spare tire back up. So, grab your spare tire tool and slot it through this hole right here. And there's a plastic white cone that you can see through this hole. So, just thread it through that and unwind the tether that holds your spare tire up.All right. Once you have the tether all the way down, we can place our spare tire underneath with the front side of the tire facing down. Grab the tether, put the spring through the center of the wheel first and the black bracket, slide the black bracket through. And then just put a little bit of tension on that as you put your tool in there and wind it back up. All right. Now, we got to grab the other piece of our tool so we can wind the tire the rest of the way up. And as the tire is up, you got to kind of balance it just so it doesn't hit and catch onto anything underneath of your Jeep that would keep it from going all the way up. And just give it a little cinch, no need to tighten it down too much.Merideth: So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and the install of the Flowmaster FlowFX Single Side Exit Exhaust System with the Black Tip, fitting all 2020 and newer 3.6-liter Gladiator JTs. For more videos and products just like this, remember to always keep right here at extremeterrain.com.
Bellowing Exhaust Rumbling. Put fear in the hearts of your competitors with the Flowmaster FlowFX Single Exhaust System. Designed to give your Gladiator a more distinct and feral sound from your muffler and increase exhaust output which equates to impressive throttle and torque gains.
Adjustable Steel Tubing. The 3-inch mandrel-bent stainless steel tubing of the Flowmaster FlowFX Single Exhaust System ensures a high-performing and intense housing that can withstand ludicrous levels of exhaust output.
Side-Exit Style. The Flowmaster FlowFX Single Exhaust System's Side-Exit design isn't just for display. It works in the same manner that standard exhausts do: it draws exhaust soot away from your Silverado's back bumper as well as other parts. This keeps your bumper and underside clean and scuff-free. The thermoregulatory carbon fiber tip also gathers exhaust particles, which helps to minimize the amount of exhaust residue that sticks to your automobile.
Warranty. The Flowmaster FlowFX Single Exhaust System comes with a limited lifetime warranty that covers any damage or defect in the mounting equipment or the intake unit.
Installation. This product comes with complete mounting hardware and can be easily attached by a non-professional.
Application. this product can fit all 2020-2023 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT Models without factory or modified dual exhaust.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
