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Merideth: If you're looking for an affordable way to get some deeper exhaust notes and some better clearance for your 2020 or newer 3.6L Gladiator JT, this Flowmaster FlowFX turndown-style exhaust system will be a great option to take a look into. Getting right into sound, this will be a three out of five on the loudness meter, with one being completely stocked, and five being awake the neighbors loud. Now, again, this will add some aggressive tones to the exhaust without adding too much volume, which will be perfect if you enjoy hearing the exhaust when you get on it. But we'll be quiet and comfortable inside the cab area with little drone. Now, this will also be a great pick if you don't really care about the look of the exhaust, but rather the clearance that you're getting here with the turndown-style design, which will help keep the exhaust out of the way when you're taking your JT out on the trail.This will be made of a 3-inch mandrel bent 409 stainless steel material offering a lot of airflow compared to the smaller diameter systems and good rust resistance. The FlowFX muffler here is going to give you that aggressive but moderate tone out of the 3.6L while optimizing airflow way better than the factory system. This will also be a shorter system, which will eliminate the over-axle tailpipe, again, giving you the clearance that you need offroad, keeping it minimal and straightforward. The JT owner looking for a no-fuss design, not to mention you're getting the hangers in the factory location, and everything that you need to get this onto your Gladiator seamlessly. Now, compared to other systems, this will keep it on the affordable side for a couple of different reasons. Now, first off, this is gonna be minimal as far as the system is concerned, reaching just to the back of the axle, and it's gonna be made of that 409 stainless.While this will offer ample clearance and great rust resistance. Other choices on the page may keep the high clearance design, but reach over the rear axle or they may be made of a very high-quality premium 304 stainless, which will up that price point. Now, I think if you're willing to compromise for an exhaust that will provide the clearance and the sound that you need out of your JT, then this is a great pick. Install will be a lighter two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about two hours to get the job done with some pretty basic hand tools. At this point, we can head over to the shop and check out a detailed breakdown of the install and what that looks like. So, that's gonna wrap it up for me. Let's jump into it.Man 1: The tools you're gonna need for this installation include a ratchet, electric or regular, an impact gun, 10-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, and 18-millimeter sockets, a flathead screwdriver and lubrication.Man 2: What is up, everybody? Today we have an exhaust, we're gonna install on our Jeep Gladiator, and I'm gonna show you how to do it step by step. Now, we did previously get the uninstall footage, so I'm gonna show you that first, then I'll be back to walk you through the install.Man 1: Okay, guys. First step, obviously, is we're gonna have to remove our factory exhaust. Now, we have our Gladiator up on a lift to give you guys some better angles to show you exactly what we're doing underneath the Jeep. And the way we're gonna do this is gonna preserve our factory exhaust. If you don't care about your factory exhaust, it might be easier just to cut it off, but we are gonna show you how to get this off while preserving the piping. So, let's go ahead and get started. All right, guys, first thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna remove the skid plate here, and that's so we can drop the front end of the exhaust down and it'll make it a little bit easier to kind of work its way out. The factory exhaust is basically one piece from the Y pipe all the way back to the tailpipe. So, what we're first gonna do is we have a 13-mil bolt or a nut right here we're gonna remove. And then we have four 18-millimeter bolts here, and then two up front here that we're gonna remove. And that'll let us get the skid plate down.All right. Like I said, guys, that one we just did was a 13-millimeter and the next four are all gonna be 18-millimeter sockets you're gonna need. All right, guys. Now before I do the front two, make sure you're supporting it with your hand, because once you loosen these, the skid plate's gonna want to drop on you. All right, guys. Now this point back is what we're gonna be removing. So, this clamp here, we're gonna loosen, you're gonna need a 13-mil socket for this ball clamp. Now, unlike a regular flat clamp, these ball clamps have a kind of a curved edge to kind of cup around the end of the flange here. So, you have to loosen it quite a bit in order to slide this out eventually. So, we have that pretty good loose, so we're gonna move to the next step. All right, guys. Now we're gonna pull back on this lock tab. This is just kind of to prevent the clamp from sliding at all. So, just get a screwdriver in there, pull that back.All right, guys. Now we're right near the tailpipe, and this is the rearmost hanger. We're gonna remove this bracket because it is the one bracket that is pointing in an opposite direction from the other hangers further forward on the exhaust. I'm gonna use a 13-mil sock on these two bolts as well. All right, guys. Now just to get it out of our way, we're gonna pull this hanger off. You're gonna have to pull it out a little bit and rotate it down. There's this little tab right here that hooks into the frame rail, so you need to get it away from there. You should be able to just pull this out, like that. All right, guys. Now go ahead and assemble a tool that comes with your Jeep. We're going to lower our spare tire, get that out of the way, and then also remove the spare tire guard to finish getting out our exhaust pipe. Now, this tool basically goes into a plastic sleeve that's behind the bumper here. Once you get that in, and you can't twist it by hand, then you know you're on the...it's kind of like a bolt back in there that the end of this tool goes on and we're gonna use it this just like a socket wrench. And then blood wrench here has a square opening in it, put that in the end here.All right. With a bunch of slack, let out guys, you don't want to drop it all the way to the ground. Might wanna be able to get a hand underneath your tire, lift your tire up. And there's a black bracket, the tire rests on. Slide it up the cable and get it through the lug hole. All right, guys. Now to remove the heat shield that protects our spare tire, you're gonna have five bolts. They're all 10-millimeter. There's three up here that are gonna be very hard, if not impossible for you guys to see on camera here, but we're gonna take those three out first. All right. And then we have the last two right here, again, 10-millimeter. All right, guys. Now at this step, we only have two hangers that are holding our exhaust pipe up, and they're both pointing towards the front, which means with the help of my friend back here, we're gonna slide the entire pipe backwards out of these two hangers, and then drop it down and actually pull it forward to clear the rear axle.Man 2: All right. We're back under the Jeep and we're ready to start the install. And we're gonna start with our front pipe here, and we're gonna be installing this end on our Y/cat pipe here, reusing the factory bubble clamp and our 13-millimeter socket. All right. So, as you can see, we're gonna install this with the kink here, kind of going down ways. And for the bubble clamp here, it's a little easier to slide this over if you kind of pry it open from the middle here, like so. Once you have it over both pipes, go ahead and loosely tighten that down with your 13-millimeter. And just leave enough room, so that we can adjust this and be able to move it if we need to. Now we're gonna reinstall our factory isolator, and this is the one that goes right over the axle here. So, if you follow your axle directly up, you'll find these two holes there, that's where this isolator goes. So, let's put that backup using the factory hardware and our 13-millimeter socket.That's always good practice to put these bolts in and all your hardware in a few threads by hand before we put a tool to it. And that'll just decrease the chance of us cross-threading anything, right? And again, I'm taking these down with my 13-millimeter. It's now time to start installing our muffler pipe. So, this hanger right here, coming off our tailpipe, we're gonna slide this into the insulator that we just installed. Once that's done, make sure you have your clamp over the inlet pipe of your muffler. Once it's hung up, we can slide this over top of our front pipe. All right. We're gonna line up the end of our hanger here with our isolator, and slide that in place, and go ahead and push it all the way in because the next step is to pull this back to put it onto our front pipe. All right. Just double-check, make sure that you have your clamp on here before you slide it in place. So, just pull it back out of the hanger, just a little bit enough to slide this on.All right. Once that's in position, we're gonna move over here to this other hanger and install our other factory isolator. All right. So, here's our other factory isolator. We're gonna slide this onto the hanger and then put the factory hardware through and tighten them down with our 13-millimeter socket. So, you might have to maneuver or manipulate the exhaust a little bit, just line up the holes. And again, putting the hardware in a few threads by hand before we put a tool to it. Now we can go ahead and tighten this the rest of the way down with our 13-millimeter. Find a good angle here. There we go. All right. Lastly, we're gonna make sure that everything's lined up nicely, and make sure that nothing's hitting or rattling. Once you have that sorted out, we can go ahead and tighten our clamps. The supplied clamp here is gonna take a 15-millimeter socket, and our factory bubble clamp is gonna take the 13-millimeter socket.All right. We're here at the supply clamp where our front pipe and our muffler meet. So, just make sure that the clamp is positioned, so it's far enough over the muffler. And take your 15-millimeter socket, and tighten it down. And now we can move on to the bubble clamp. Back here at the bubble clamp, I'm just gonna loosen this up just a little bit, just to make sure it's positioned nicely over both pipes, and we can go ahead and tighten this back down using our 13-millimeter socket. All right. Our muffler is installed. Now we wanna take it out and test it out. But first, we have to put up our factory equipment. So, let's start here with the skid plate and the factory hardware. All right. When we're putting our skid plate back up, just line this hole up here with this stud, and that will give us our general location, and then we can start putting in the factory hardware. So, I'm gonna start with the 18-millimeter bolts here. You can put a couple in and then we can let this hang and get the rest of the hardware in. Now we can go ahead and tighten down our factory hardware. The big bolts here are 18-millimeter, and then that little nut there is a 13-millimeter. Let's reinstall our heat shield using our factory hardware and our 10-millimeter socket.All right. We're gonna line up our heat shield here with these two studs and these two holes. And we're gonna take one of our 10-millimeter bolts here and put them through by hand over here. Take the second one, thread this in by hand. And now there are three more pieces of hardware back here. Obviously, the two studs that we mounted this on first, so we're gonna put the two nuts there. And then there's one more right back here behind here that's impossible to see on camera, but that's where the third 10-millimeter bolt will go. All right. Now let's tighten everything down with our 10-millimeter socket. Then you can get this last one through back here. And next, we'll put our tire back up. Now we're gonna put our spare tire back up the way we took it down. So, grab your spare tire toolkit, and we put it together. Now we can wrap this through the hole and into the cone. Slip the other part of our tool on here, tire on. And we can wind the cable down. And put the cable through the backside with the spring first and then the black bracket.All right. Now, we can wind it back up. All right. Just keep an eye on the bracket, make sure it catches where it's supposed to. And then if the tire starts teetering like so, just kind of give it a little spin as you're winding it. See what I'm saying here, watch. There you go. All right. Once it's up there tight, just give it a little cinch. No need to over-tighten it. Grab all your tools, and you're good to go. That's gonna wrap up this review and install of the Flowmaster FlowFX Extreme Single Exhaust System in the turndown style for your '20 and newer 3.6L Gladiator JT. Thank you for watching. And for all things Gladiator, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Performance. The Flowmaster FlowFx Extreme Single Exhaust System boats its high-performance combined with an amazing soundtrack on the back. The system uses a Scavenger X-Pipe cross-over and mandrel-bent tubing for maximum performance and then is finished off with stainless steel tips that exit within the rear bumper valance. Flowmaster exhaust systems employ two unique technologies, the patented Delta Flow and the Laminar Flow. They give different characters of sound and can be tuned to achieve the desired exhaust note.
Build Quality. All Flowmaster exhaust systems give the same improvement of performance. This fully stainless steel setup provides the advantage of being light, better heat dissipation, and an increase in durability.
Installation. Designed for easy installation, this system includes all necessary parts, hardware, and detailed instructions. This system uses factory hangers to eliminate unnecessary modifications.
Warranty. Flowmaster stainless steel exhaust systems are covered by a Limited Lifetime Warranty; ensuring that your exhaust will last as long as you own your vehicle.
Application. The Flowmaster FlowFx Extreme Single Exhaust System; Turn Down were designed to fit all 2020-2023 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT models.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
