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Flowmaster Delta Force Cold Air Intake with Snorkel (20-23 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT)

Item JG2376
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      Video Review & Installation

      Jake: Jake here for Extreme Terrain. And today I'm taking a look at the Flowmaster Delta Force Cold Air Intake with Snorkel fitting 2020 and newer 3.6-liter Gladiators. Whether it's the look or the performance that you're after, both come included with this intake and snorkel setup from Flowmaster. This one combines the best parts of a snorkel and an updated intake to help your JT breathe better, give it more water-fording capabilities, and imbue it with a cool look. And it does it all for less than buying these pieces separately.This is a pretty cool setup, I have to admit, and we've got a lot to discuss here. But let's start with that snorkel. If you're planning on hitting the trails, fording rivers, or even if you just want the cool look, this is gonna get you there. Overlanders will appreciate the ability to go anywhere at any time and not be stopped by a pesky body of water. Others might just appreciate the cool look and that's okay too. Having the snorkel makes the JT look more aggressive, yes, but when form and function go hand in hand, we like that even more. Now bringing the actual air inlet all the way up high means that should you find yourself needing to ford a river or cross some other kind of water feature, you're much less likely to flood the engine.Now, that's not to say this is gonna turn your Gladiator into a submarine, so don't think about that, but it is gonna up the level of capability pretty significantly because it moves that inlet point way up to the top of your windshield. And you get a protective honeycomb screen at the top as well to keep any debris out of the intake system. And that snorkel is also designed to hug the A-pillar closely leaving space for lightbar brackets should you have those or want to add them later. And it also feeds the intake directly.Now this is a closed box intake, so it's gonna shield the filter from the heat of your engine bay. It's also watertight, meaning that you can put that snorkel to use without fear of drowning your engine. Now the top of the box does have a clear lid, which is gonna look cool, and it gives you the ability to check on the condition of the filter without having to disassemble anything or break that seal. Speaking of that filter, this setup includes an oiled filter. It's a high-flow one, it has a lot more surface area than what comes standard on your truck. Oiled filters are also excellent for this sort of off-roading application, as the oil on the surface of the filter does an even better job of keeping out dirt and small debris that a dry filter might otherwise let through. Now, oiled filters also have a very long lifespan, and as long as you keep them cleaned and oiled properly, they should last you a heck of a long time. So you don't have to worry about replacing the filter, you can just clean it out, re-oil it, and you're set for a while again. That larger surface area also means more airflow, which of course means more power.Now we're not talking about huge power increases here, and this one does not require you to do a tune on your truck. However, you might feel a little bit of extra oomph behind the wheel once you've got it installed. Now all of that additional dry clean air is then fed into the engine through a high-flow intake tube. That tube is lightweight, it's smooth, and it's designed for maximum airflow. Now the whole setup is gonna make some additional sound too. And personally, I'm a big fan of intake noise. These tend to be quieter at small throttle applications, especially when you're just kind of puttering around town, but they open up and really get rocking once you lay into the throttle. Now, it's also worth noting again, that this intake does not require you to get a tune, you can just bolt it on and go. However, as I mentioned a few moments ago, if you wanna make the most out of your intake and exhaust setup, a tune is gonna help you maximize those gains.Now, the snorkel, airbox, and air intake tube are all made from a cross-linked polyethylene, which is lightweight, it's durable, and it's plenty strong for this application. Everything is also designed to be watertight as well. The airbox and all the connections utilize stainless steel hardware, black anodized fittings, and reinforced silicone couplers. So that means that no matter where you are or what you do with it, it's gonna keep that water out, which is exactly the point of a setup like this. The airbox also utilizes factory-style mounting brackets, so minimal modifications are needed to get this installed. In fact, the only modification you're gonna need to make is a hole for that snorkel, but we'll talk about that in a few minutes. And as we discussed earlier too, the filter is a large oiled design for the best possible filtering and longest life. Pricing comes in at about $775. And that does put it at the top of the category price-wise when you're comparing it to other cold air intake setups. However, this is a high-quality intake and a snorkel all in one, and it's designed to work as a package right there out of the box.So from that perspective, you are getting a lot for your money here. And if you want to get both, this is gonna save you a little bit versus buying them separately and having to deal with matching them up. So if you want to get a snorkel and a cold air intake, this is a great way to do it because you know that they're gonna fit together, and they're gonna work properly right there out of the gate. All you gotta do is follow the installation guide.Speaking of which, it's time to finally talk about installation. We're gonna give this one a three out of three on our difficulty meter and should take you about three hours to complete. Now, the reason for that high rating is that you are gonna have to cut into your fender in order to fit that snorkel and make it functional. A template is included in the box for you to make measuring easy, but you're still gonna need to make that cut. So if that's not something you're comfortable doing at home, you can always farm it out to a professional. Again, everything is right there though, so if you've got the mettle and want to do it, go ahead and make that cut, just follow the template. From that point on, the rest of the installation is straightforward, and that cut is the only modification you're gonna need to make. So with that, why don't we go ahead and hand it over to one of our XT customers, who's gonna walk you through that process and make you feel a little bit better about cutting holes into your own Jeep.Man: So basically, all you need is a 1/8-inch drill, some Teflon tape, a blowdown nozzle, need a 8-millimeter nut driver, or an 8-millimeter wrench, small standard screwdriver, a utility knife, just a trim removal tool, pair of pliers or channel locks, 4-millimeter Allen, the T-handle, and a regular L because there is a clearance problem so you won't be able to get it with this, just a set of side cutters for cutting our zip ties when we're done, either a ratchet, air ratchet, whatever you want to use, and a 10-millimeter socket, and a 3-inch extension. And then we got a 13/16-inch wrench just to put our PVC bars in. I just want to go over the tools we needed for the hood cut portion of the install. I think the body saw, air-powered works best for me. I don't know of anything else that would work better for the job. It was in my first thought when I went to do the job. I got an 1/8-inch drill bit and a power drill for rivets, a blind rivet tool, just a regular utility blade, some masking tape, some alcohol, and a microfiber that I wanna show you. And I do have an air-powered carbide deeper-end tool, which made life a lot easier. So...Today we're gonna be installing our Delta Force Cold Air Snorkel Intake on my 2021 Jeep Gladiator. Folks over at Extreme Terrain got me set up with this. I'm super excited about it. I've been waiting a minute to grab this thing and finally get it ready to go. All right, we're gonna open, prop the hood, gonna go in right out on the plenum here. There's two 10-millimeter bolts we'll go ahead and remove. Then we're gonna disconnect the PVC line, which on the back side, just above your alternator, just a little gray retainer, should be able to push it in and slide that right off like so. This is that PVC retainer here, just a little gray clamp. As you push on it, it'll disengage and it'll slide off. So you just push down on the gray clamp and this will slide right off of this fitting. And right here on the front is a air temperature sensor and that's just a little, it's got a little tab on it. Push that tab in and it'll slide right off. Take a pair of cutters. We should be able to pry these little retainers right up and out of the resonator box. So I don't cut 'em, I'm just going under 'em and prying them right up and out of there. Like so. I'll put that aside.I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter nut driver to loosen the clamp here and the plenum to throttle body connection. Once I do that, I should be able to just pry that hose right away. That'll pry right away from the throttle body. Then if you just grab the whole air box assembly gently, make sure everything's out of the way. Make sure nothing's clamped. Now we have another clamp here, holds that to the resonator box. So no zip tie. Get rid of that. Now, it should move freely.There's one more intake bolt on the backside on the open end of the plenum. Choose your 10-millimeter, everything's disconnected. You should be able to pry up on this box. It should pop right up. There are little rubber grommets that are down in the frame here that go into these two little holes. So when you go to pull up on that box, that's gonna give you the most resistance right there. So I just kind of wiggle it a little bit. It pops right out. So now that whole factory plenum assembly is gone with the air box, the foil, right up to the throttle body. And when we pulled out the factory box, we turned it upside down. So the factory air box here, plenum going out, there's two rubber grommets that fit over these barbed fittings. Just grab those off, taking those rubber grommets, and pushing 'em right back down in those bracket holes under the old plenum box.Now that we moved the plenum box assembly, there's a little air temperature sensor that we disconnected. There's a little locking tab there. If you gently pry it a tiny, tiny bit and gently take a pair of just pliers, grab it. You can turn it a quarter turn counterclockwise and you can wiggle that out. Okay. See the O-ring on there. Make sure that's intact when you take it out.Right now we'll begin assembly of the new air box. I got the air box filter adapter, the air box. I've got the filter adapter gasket and I've got three of these 4-millimeter Allen head screws with lock washer and flat washer. So we'll just go ahead, get the gasket in place on there, from the inside [inaudible 00:12:07.815] lining up the holes, one in, two in place. Up there in place. Just making sure, like I said, that that gasket remains flat and there's all you really have to do to make sure it seals. If you want, I can put a little Vaseline on that gasket and that will help hold it in place while you temporary hold it in place while you get everything lined up.This is my gasket solid. I'll show you in a second. I'm gonna tighten these screws down nice. I can feel the gasket all the way around. Just snug these down. Again, we're just basically squeezing that gasket down so it doesn't take a tremendous amount of force. You'll feel as you meet resistance, just give it a tiny bit of a quarter turn and that will sandwich that gasket down inside the boxes. You can see that gasket is sandwiched all the way around. If you run your fingers around, you can feel it all the way through. It should be protruding. And that means that you've got a good seal on the box.Now we have two barbed pins that came in the kit. They'll be in the hardware bag. There's two of these. They've got a thread insert in them and the U bracket. This will go on the bottom of the box and these fittings will go into those rubber grommets that are still the original OEM factory pieces. So we're gonna take these two and we're gonna install them on each wing, bolt, lock washer, flat washer, and through the bracket. Just gonna spin these barbed fittings onto that. Four-millimeter Allen, snug them down nice and tight.Second one, just take a rag and hold that fitting, this way you can get that nice and tight. Beautiful. So this is what your bracket should look like when you're done. That goes directly on the bottom of the box. And again, two more of the four-millimeter, the box, the lock washer, flat washer. All right, so we've assembled our air box, we've got our bracket, got our air filter adapter. Corner goes in, gasket's in place, everything's locked down solid. All right, now I'll be installing the grate onto this top of the snorkel. If you notice on the grate, it's kind of angled fit. It'll only fit onto the snorkel one way. Okay? So all these four tabs go to the outside of the snorkel. You got 10 pop rivets or blind rivets, as you call 'em, they came with the kit and we're gonna go through and we're gonna do all these in.So first thing we'll do is we'll place it on, you can use a 1/8-inch drill bit, hand it up the arm, make sure there's nothing there. I use a rivet tool, before you're gonna open the handle the rivet will go right into the end and insert that into the hole we just drilled, making sure all four tabs are on the outside of that snorkel. I'm gonna go ahead and install that one side. Flip it over, do the same for the opposite. Put it in tight, drill, clean up the burrs. Grab another rivet, holding it tight. Middle one being the more tight. Clean the burrs. All right, I'm just gonna go in now and finish all the rest of the holes. Filling those in, drilling, and riveting.Okay, we've completely installed the protective grate at the top of the snorkel opening. I'm just gonna take a little air, blow it in there, blow out any of the debris we made drilling the holes and putting those blind rivets in. Now we're gonna go ahead and install the box-to-snorkel gasket and the air box. All right, the box-to-snorkel gasket will go obviously between the two pieces and the screws will go in from the inside of the box down onto the snorkel. All right, bolt these two together, it's gonna require 10 of the 4-millimeter screw, lock washer, flat washer assemblies, like again, place the gasket in place. It only fits one way, therefore the box will only fit one way also. Just gonna go ahead and overlay that carefully. We're gonna go in, we're gonna start indexing each screw. So using the gasket, just get in there finger tight for now. So we keep our gasket in place. Put one on each of the four sides.Thus far, the most difficult part of this assembly has been putting the 10 screws to attach the air box itself to the snorkel plenum. There's a gasket in between. The best way I found is to do the top three first. So the face here, cover face, put those first three in, get 'em started. Then work your way around, you know, slowly, take your time. It's just tedious because of the angles. So do the sides, front and rear for now, and then the last three will be the inboard down bottom ones. So we're all assembled. We've got the air box solid sealed.All right, so we've grabbed our new plenum. Okay? And on the Flowmaster end of it, I grabbed the grommet, rubber grommet out of the kit. And all we're gonna do is slowly work that into that hole. So if you just work your way around, it should go right in. Go wiggle and jiggle in. Should grab up just nice. If you have to, you see you can put a little soap on it. Sometimes that helps. So I dunno if you could see that very well. But inside, make sure it's seated all the way around. Outside, make sure it's seated all around. And then our air temperature sensor that we took out before from the factory, that's just gonna gently slide in there and get it just to where the O-ring is in there. It will not go all the way in and it does say that right on the directions. And I'll just keep twisting it until I get it where I want it. That O-ring is just about in there. It should sit like that. Okay, so it's close enough. The O-ring's not quite all the way in but it's in there snug. No water's gonna get into that. Okay?Next, I grabbed the PCV boss out of the kit and they said take a little Teflon tape. It didn't come in the kit so I have some readily lying around. Most people have it if you have a garage, if you do anything around the house, it's usually three wraps to be safe. Break it off. I'm gonna pick up that new plenum and we're gonna thread that in gently into the threaded boss. All right, once it's down, just use that 13/16-inch wrench and I can get that nice and snug. It doesn't have to be ridiculous tight, just snug. That Teflon tape will work to hold it in place. So... And that's it. That's assembled. Just be careful, now that that sensor's installed, you don't bang it around.Yeah, the kit comes with four of these clamps. Okay, the largest one is gonna go on the larger side of this one, obviously by fit. And that's what I did. I basically just indexed them so that one fits there and we have what appears to be one smaller one and two of the same size. So the smallest one is gonna save for this elbow and then the two other ones are the ones we're gonna go to now. So they're not opened all the way. So I just take my little 8-millimeter nut driver, I'm gonna open it the rest of the way so it fits over the gasket. So I know that works. Then I'm gonna go to the boss end of my plenum, so my PCV boss, and I'm gonna slide this over that. I'm just gonna slide it over, there's like a little raised ridge on it. I'm just gonna slide it over till we reach that, loosen it up a little tiny bit more and we should be able to walk it over the top of that rubber.Now they don't want you to tighten the clamps yet, so that's gonna slide right up over that. On the other end of the boss you do the same. Okay, so you've got a narrow end, you've got the big end. Again, loosen up your clamp a little bit. It has a little bit of play left in it. Drop that over. And again, we're working now on the temperature sensor side of it and I try to index the screw so, so this one is in place, should be faced up. So I try to index my clamp screws so they're up and I can get to them. Okay? Once it's installed. So this piece will go on and that should go till it stops. Loosen that clamp up a little bit more and we'll slide that right over again just like the other side. The last clamp will go here and, again, let's just get that so it's in place and ready to rock and roll.Okay, we've stepped up on the passenger side right now. We've got a 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna remove the first two that you see from the hinge side of the hood. We're gonna remove the two fender bolts. A gasket, which was included in the kit, wipe the surface area clean, contact with the gasket, I'm just gonna peel it back. I'm gonna index it over those holes as close as possible. We'll just work out the air bubbles. If you work from the inside out, should have a nice clean air-bubble-free application all the way down. Nice clean gasket application there.And we're gonna take our bracket and install that over the gasket, place our two factory screws back in. And again, this should just be finger-tight at this time. Two of the factory original and there's already a hole pre-drilled and tapped and this screw comes with the kit. That's your front mount bracket and you're just gonna do the same thing. You thread that in finger tight. We're over to the passenger side A post where your grab handle is. We've opened the door. I have a little tool. These are handy. They're just trim removal tools. You can get 'em anywhere, any parts store but we're just gonna take this and basically pop the speaker cover up. Push it over the clamp, swing it all the way in the back and this'll come off in one piece. These are the four clips. Okay, set that aside.Now we have a corner over here. We have one here top, we have one here bottom that just popped off and there's like a flap. Inside there, you'll see some 10-millimeter bolts. So we've popped off our speaker cover. These are those little covers and inside there you could see there's a little 10-millimeter bolt hiding up in there and down in there, we're gonna remove those. Remove those two bolts. Okay, remove two of these 10-millimeter bolts. Let's grab handle now. And this just popped off this, the A pillar, there's two little clips kind of in here so it kind of holds it in place pretty tight. So just give it a little tug, it'll come free.A pillar's off, we're gonna take this gasket that came with the kit. It's got a little hole for indexing over the hole. It's gonna be the bottom hole for the grab handle that you just removed. Just peel the paper back. I wouldn't peel it all the way off. Just peel it back about halfway and fold it like so. And we're gonna put that behind the harness. It's really sticky, just get it aligned over that hole and let it hang like that. I'm gonna take a razor knife and just go right where that gasket that we put in meets the rubber window gasket. And I'm gonna slice that gasket all the way through. So we've taken the gasket, put it over the hole and then we basically sliced it right here where it meets this rubber. Rolled it under there a little bit. And we're gonna save this piece because this is gonna go on the outer after to protect that under the bracket. Okay, so here's what the bracket looks like.Okay, the hole here indexed for the hole that goes to mount the grab handle. What I've done is I've made a small slit in the fold of this weather stripping. I know it's hard to appreciate. So this can fit through and it'll fit in there tight. Okay? And then that over rubber will overlay it. Re-clip this, lined up the bracket, re-clip the handle with that little clip that I showed you. And now I'm just gonna go ahead and index the bottom screw I can see in the hole and I can see that I'm going through the bracket and that's probably the most important part right here is that that happens. Get that threaded down and started.Taking the remainder of the gasket. So you have a small piece here, then a larger piece here. Gonna save the smaller piece for the door itself. But this larger piece, I'm gonna go ahead and stick it right behind the bracket itself so it's not banging against the metal. Gonna go ahead and reinstall these little covers in my grab rail and clip the speaker grille right back into those four little holes. Last little piece of gasket I've saved. Peel that off and where the door shuts and meets that bracket, I'm gonna go ahead and put that onto the painted surface to protect it from contact. So now when I shut that door, it's protected from contact with those little gaskets.We're ready to place the snorkel assembly and airbox assembly into the vehicle. So this goes in over, you can see the holes clearly indexed where the barb fittings are. If you stand the driver's side here, those will fit right in the front into our mounting bracket that we've mounted on the fenders. Again, this finger-tight will do for now. And we're gonna grab two more of the 3/8 nuts with a, or screws with a lock washer, flat washer. And we're gonna go ahead and get those started finger-tight into the windshield bracket. All right, there's a threaded insert next to your antenna here. There's a basically a ferrule that you can use. Slide that over the antenna and then one more of those 3/8 little screws with a lock washer and a flat washer, you can slide it down.Once I got that in for the antenna ferrule, I just cranked it down with a 4-millimeter Allen wrench so that's nice and tight and snug. Okay, I'm gonna take the intake tube now and I went ahead and indexed it so I know I'm close with my elbow to the throttle body angle and to the air box. Okay? So we're gonna go ahead and slide the air box down first and then let's rock the body in. Then I'll make sure it's all secure in place. Looks good. We're gonna spin this clamp around because I'll be able to get to all the clamps like I said. So everything should be snug all the way around. Okay, we're gonna center the intake tube between the two couplers so it looks nice and even and everything's where it needs to be tight and snug against it. And we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna start tightening the clamps. Throttle body, elbow.Okay, now that that's all secured to the air box from the throttle body, we can go ahead and reconnect our PVC. Put that nice and then it comes with this really nice harness, it's extension harness for your sensor, temperature sensor. It's just real quick, Yeah, it's indexed so it only goes one way, so it's nice and solid. On your other end, same thing. Check your indexing and, again, it's only gonna go one way and you'll hear that audible click. And what we're gonna do is we're just gonna secure, we'll clean up this harness, these old connectors we can get rid of and I'm just gonna use some zip ties to zip tie this down and out of the way.Okay, so basically cold air box intake has all been installed at this point and we can go back now, we can tighten up all the hardware. So we tighten the clamps already on the plenum. We're just gonna go back and tighten the bracket down to the body and then the bracket to the box snorkel. Same thing at the windshield bracket. Just tighten that down too. Grab that filter assembly, make sure you put the clamp where you can access it. We can drop it into the air box, that's gonna slide right over the adapter.I removed the protective plastic from the air box cover. And I've placed the air box gasket, which pretty much only fits one way, over the air box mounting holes. Air box cover right over it and we're gonna install the remainder of the 4-millimeter screws with lock washers and flat washers. Okay, we've installed all the screws here, now we're just snugging them all down to seal the gasket. And again, just snug, no need to put 400 foot-pounds of torque into them. Just sealing the gasket to the cover. That's it. Okay, so I've actually gone back and cut the bottom edge on the back hood edge of my template. I'm gonna align this up to get it straight and clean.All right, so basically I'm gonna use some masking tape to go around and tape this template down. So I taped edge to edge here. The back hood edge, the edge of it. It all basically just goes to the edges of your hood. Okay, as you go. This will give us an area to mark and we'll pull this back up we can write on this with a marker. So with your hood down it should look pretty much in line with what we have here. Everything should look pretty much in place when we cut that, that it's gonna fit right over.Okay, so I've marked it, I've removed the template. I got a bucket, something small to prop the hood up while I cut because if you lay it down there's just not enough room to work. So when we cut, I'm gonna use a air body saw. As I cut, I want to keep it as perpendicular to the surface as I can, nice and clean because there's two layers of hood so if you angle, you're gonna screw up the hole on the inside. So the trick is to get this even on both sides. That's probably the part that most people freak out about. So when I see we're gonna cut, the first cut, we're gonna go inside, well inside of this line, I'm thinking probably about maybe a quarter inch. So I can adjust if I need to once I cut that hole, which is what the manufacturer recommends. Speed of the saw picked up as I got through that second layer. So now I'm in a single layer so I'm gonna be more careful about not cutting the inside at the same time.Okay, one more. We're gonna go through and try to get through both layers this time. Okay, so we made our initial cut, we went to about a little more than a quarter inch in to avoid our actual cut line and now we shut the hood again and we could see that now is the time to make your adjustment. So I'd want to cut more toward the front than toward the back. So I might leave that where it is and take a little bit more off the front side. So I'm gonna cut it just to that line and see how we lay there and then we can make our next cuts after that. Okay, so we're starting to wide it out, trim it out a little bit and then we know we take our outside ferrule. We can use it almost as a template to see exactly how much more we have to remove. There's not a lot, it's a tiny bit but now we should be able to actually close it down as you can see. So we still got a little bit more here we're gonna take off, this side looks good. So when we're on here we definitely need to towards the front, so we take a little bit more off the front, a little bit more off the top.Okay, made another trim cut. Now see this, this almost fits like perfect, so kinda tucked up in there. So probably just gonna trim, the width is perfect. Just a trim on the top, just a tiny, tiny bit. At the same time I'll trim the back out. So we get the back [inaudible 00:39:31.217]. All right, so we finished making all those crazy cuts. Got the outer, fits on there perfectly. Hooks onto the lip, there's no, it is on there perfect. Okay, so we've made it. I like it. I'm gonna check the inner fit and that should be right on also. Nice, tight and snug to follow the contours of the hood. So it's good to go.All right, now I've got this outer barrel or what you call gasket, it's a fit, I can go ahead and tape it in place and then I can work on the inner. Okay, now we've put the inner gasket in there tight and snug. It should fit nice and tight and snug to the hood contours without moving the outer gasket. We are right on. So we're good for the install of the gaskets. Close the hood back down, you can take off the tape and let's clean it up and get it ready. We're just gonna use a microfiber cloth, with denatured alcohol to make sure we have all the oil and residues removed both inside and outside.So now we take our body adhesive tape that comes with the kit and I'll put the red side toward this. And what I'll do is I'll start the peel just a little bit. This stuff is super sticky, it's like a one-shot deal. So I'll get everything in place where I want it in there, nice and snug. And then I'll stick and I will slowly peel and stick and work my way around. So this is exactly where I want it, inside this mount for this ferrule gasket they call it. So you just keep working your way around and bond it all in. That's it. So that's nice and taped in there.Okay, we peeled off all that paper and that [inaudible 00:42:09.336]. So we go right on the bottom, hook it in tight, [inaudible 00:42:17.736]. So we got that in. Then we're gonna raise the hood. Now we're gonna get the edge done. And the last step is to carefully drill these holes. Should be four total. [inaudible 00:42:58.360]. One last little step and it's just this foam gasket, it's a peel and stick and this is basically gonna go right around the whole inside of that outer ferrule and then stretch it. Just basically let it work. Looks like a little rail there kind of fits against, so just keep working your way around [inaudible 00:44:13.883]. That's it. We're just gonna trim the excess off, here's the hood.Jake: That's gonna wrap it up here for our review and install the Flowmaster Delta Force Cold Air Intake with Snorkel fitting 2020 and newer 3.6-liter Gladiators. Thanks so much for watching, and as always, for all things Jeep, be sure to keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Get Increased Torque and Horsepower
      • Smoother Throttle Response
      • Has an Inverted Dual Cone Air Filter
      • Tubing Is Made From Cross-Linked Polyethylene (XPLE)
      • Tuning Isn’t Required
      • Has a Million-Mile Warranty
      • Fits All 2020-2023 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT Models


      Enhances Engine Performance. With Flowmaster’s Delta Force Cold Air Intake with Snorkel, your Jeep Gladiator JT will have the power it needs to help you conquer the toughest trails and terrains. Its wide tubing, superior quality air filter, and tough grates enable it to deliver high amounts of clean and cool air into your vehicle’s engine. This yields +11.30 pound-feet of torque and +90 horsepower.

      No Tuning Required. Flowmaster crafted the Delta Force Cold Air Intake with Snorkel to work with your Jeep’s current configuration. As such, special tuning isn’t required.

      Inverted Dual Cone Air Filter. To ensure that your Jeep’s engine is receiving cooler, cleaner air, this system comes with an inverted dual cone air filter. The air filter media features an 8-layer, cotton-gauze construction and a monstrous size for maximum air flow.

      Impressive Cold air Intake System Construction. The Delta Force Cold Air Intake is comprised of high-quality Cross-Linked Polyethylene (XLPE) tubing, a watertight intake air box, and stainless steel hardware and factory style brackets. Thanks to these durable components, you can rest assured that this system can handle high-operating situations, and keep up with your Jeep’s heavy-duty applications.

      Professional Installation Is Highly Recommended. This Cold Air Intake with Snorkel comes with several parts and pieces of hardware, some of which need to be drilled, cut, and modified to ensure a perfect fit. As such, it’s best to let a qualified mechanic handle the installation. The task can be completed in 3 hours.

      Backed by a Lifetime Limited Warranty. Each Delta Force Cold Air Intake with Snorkel is covered by Flowmaster’s lifetime limited warranty. To learn more about the warranty’s terms, conditions, and exclusions, then check out the manufacturer’s website or contact customer support.

      Application. The Flowmaster Delta Force Cold Air Intake with Snorkel fits all 2020-2023 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT models.



      Flowmaster 615193

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Inverted Cone Air Filter
      • (1) Screw Clamp
      • (1) Molded Intake Tube
      • (1) Molded Snorkel Tube
      • (1) Air Box
      • (1) Air Box Cover
      • (1) Snorkel Intake Grate
      • (1) Air Box Lid Gasket

      Customer Reviews (23)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Gladiator

        • 3.0L V6 EcoDiesel - 23
        • 3.6L V6 - 20, 21, 22, 23