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Justin: If you've been suffering through the awful factory halogen bulbs in your 2020 and your Gladiator at home, well, then it's time to look into an affordable LED upgrades such as the bulbs here from Axial. Now, the dual-element H13 bulbs will replace the dingy yellow low-output factory bulbs with a modern and bright LED offer right around the low $100 price point. So, as someone who has dealt with factory halogens in my fair share vehicles over the years, let me just say that I feel your pain. Now, nighttime visibility was just downright terrible. And honestly, it's a sin that manufacturers are still putting these outdated poor-performing bulbs on $30,000 to $40,000 plus trucks. Now, you could always upgrade to a completely new set of headlight housings, but chances are you're gonna be spending at least a few 100 bucks if not more, or the other option, go for a more cost-effective alternative and just simply upgrade to an LED bulb.Now, the LED that we're referring to here in today's video is a set of dual-element H13 from Axial which will replace the low and high beams in your 2020 and newer halogen-equipped JT at home. Now, these LEDs will utilize SMD or surface-mounted devices to help produce a bright white light at that 6000K color temperature. Now, the LEDs have been rated at over 30,000 hours of continuous use and will only use roughly one-tenth the power of your standard incandescent bulbs.Now, guys, aside from what we're showing you here in this video with our shop JT and what I'm talking about, I highly recommend checking out the customer-submitted images along with those customer reviews. It's a great way to hear from JT owners who have actually installed these bulbs. And again, a lot of those guys have actually submitted some photos of the headlights in action. So, it'll give you a better idea of how these might look on your own rig at home. But now we wanna segue into the install guys. And for the most part, expect a very simple plug-and-play job that will be a direct swap on your JT at home. One out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter is what you can expect here because of the ease of the job and maybe 20 minutes of your time to complete from start to finish. But to give you a better idea of just how the job will go down at home, check out this detailed walkthrough provided by an XT customer now.Man: So, for tools on this project it is pretty simple and straightforward. All you need is a 10-millimeter socket. You can have that hooked up to an impact or to a ratchet. In this case, I'm using a quarter drive ratchet and socket and the impact. I suggest using the ratchet and socket to break loose and do the final snugging of all of the 10-millimeter bolts that hold the headlight housing in. It just helps prevent any accidents and over-torquing and breaking anything. Again, we're dealing with plastic here, so you always need to be careful. But the impact certainly comes in handy if you are trying to save some time and get the bolts in and out faster. And then I used two-flathead screwdrivers to remove all the pop rivets. Of course, you can use a pop rivet tool. I actually have one. And just the way some of these pop rivets were aligned, it wasn't that easy to get it into position. Some of them work better than others. So, of course, if you have a good one that you wanna use, use that instead. But using two-flathead screwdrivers would work just fine.So, you've got two choices to make when you decide to put new light bulbs or headlights in your Gladiator. The first option would be to remove the airbox and washer bottle so that you actually have access to remove the rear covers. That might seem like the easier option to begin with because we're not removing the whole grille, but trust me it is easier to do this method which is what we're gonna do is remove the grille and then remove the headlight pod from the frame here and then we'll be able to pull the bolts out the back much easier. Otherwise, you have to remove most of the intake tract. The driver's side actually isn't that bad to do with the headlight bucket in place. But since we need to do it for the passenger's side, it's easier to just go ahead and remove everything the same way.So, the first thing you'll need to do is remove six pop rivets from the top of the bumper here, from the top of the grille, rather. We've got one, two, three, four, five, and six. You can use a screwdriver or, of course, you can use a pop rivet removal tool. These are still fairly new, so they're easy to pop out with a flathead screwdriver. And then just make sure that you're keeping these in a safe place that you're not gonna lose them. And we'll just work our way across the front here removing all six. And if you have trouble getting some of these and all you have is flathead screwdrivers, so, if you use two on each side, [inaudible 00:05:33] they come out much easier. But, again, mine are fairly new, so they're not giving me too much trouble.And sometimes the inner portion and outer portion like to come apart just to make sure that you pop those back together while you're storing them and make sure they don't get lost. And remove the last one over here. So, once you have those six pop rivets removed, all that holds this grille in place are some snap clips which I'll be able to show you here once I get the grille removed. But you can see even after removing those, this is pretty loose. You do wanna be pretty careful here, this grille is just plastic. So, you don't wanna pull too much in one place or you do have a chance of breaking or bending this. So, you've got some snaps here on the sides, and then along the bottom. So, what I like to do is just start at one end. I'm gonna give this a nice tug and release these snaps on the side. You hear that pop out. Come over here to the other side. The same thing.Now you can see we've got the grille starting to come off. There's...And I'll show this here in just a minute. There's probably six or so of these snaps at the bottom. So, you want to start at one end and make sure you've got your hand under the grille here just to help keep from scratching up and protect your paint. And we'll start pulling away some further movement from the truck. And you can see that it actually comes off pretty easy. So, just to give you a little bit better idea of what we did there, you can see there are these one, two, three, four, five, six snaps along the bottom and then one on each side that we needed to release. And then you can also see at the top of the grille we had six pop rivets that needed to be removed. So, once you remove those, the grille comes off really easy. You just wanna set it somewhere safe while we do the rest. So, once you've got the grille out of the way, getting the headlight pod out is really easy. And that was the reason why we wanted to remove the grille in the first place, is it just makes the rest of this job so much easier.So, for each headlight pod, we've got 3 10-millimeter bolts that you'll need to remove. You can either use a ratchet, of course. It would be a little tricky to get a wrench on all of these or you could use an impact driver. I've got an impact driver here with a 10-mil socket on it that I'll use to help me get these out once I break them loose. Just be careful, of course, when using an impact. You don't wanna strip anything or break anything. Again we're dealing with plastic here, so you can break it pretty easily. It also helps if you loosen rather than tightening starting off. Remove one, two, and three. And you can see where these bolts are located here. Again two of them really easy to get to. This one is still pretty easy to get to with the socket just kind of tucked up in here near the radiator support.And again, you'll wanna keep this somewhere safe. I'm using the box that the LEDs came in. Those bolts do come out pretty easy. If you don't have an impact, it's not a big deal. You can ratchet those out, no problem. I just used an impact because I have one on hand and there is a little bit of blue Loctite on there that, you know, you've gotta fight through. All right. Once those three bolts are out, your headlight pod is gonna come right out. And the only thing you need to do is release this connector back here. It's just a simple tab that you need to push in and pull away. It comes off really easy. So, here are the three mounting locations. And you can see one of them. I'm sorry. Two of them have locating pins that we'll use when we put this back in to make sure that it's lined up fine.All right. From here, you're gonna want to find a surface to work on that isn't going to scratch the lens of the housing up. But all we need to do is remove this cover right here. And it just twists off like that. And there's a seal here that keeps everything nice and dry. So, we wanna make sure that that cap goes back on. As you can maybe see from my truck here, there is quite a bit of...unfortunately, quite a bit of salt right here. We've had some winter weather recently. And this just kind of shows you that road spray is gonna get up in this area. And certainly, if you don't have that cover on, you're gonna get moisture inside of the headlight.Okay. So, once we remove that cover, our connector here is going to be exposed. That needs to be removed. You just hold the white piece back, and then you can press in tab with the gray connector, and it comes right out. This is...We're gonna be using this connector to plug in our new LED headlights and remove the halogen headlights. Similar to the cover here. I'm just gonna grab and turn in a counterclockwise fashion and the bulbs come right out. Again, you're gonna wanna find a place to set these. I've put a cover over the engine bay just so I can work up here and not have to run over the bench. Just something soft to set things on so that you're not scratching anything down there. So, here's a side-by-side comparison. Of course, the halogen bulb is much more bulky. LED is a lot more profile. LEDs looked to be pretty good quality. No branding right on them, which is fine. As far as shape and fitment go, it looks like everything is gonna line up just fine. You do have these three locating tabs here on both and you've got two narrow and one wide. We'll be lining those up to get the bulb located correctly. Everything else on this looks pretty good.All right. So, now that we've got our housing back here, like I had mentioned, there are three tabs that you need to line up, two narrow, one wide. So, we'll put those in the right orientation. And once you have those lined up, this should go right in. And the exact opposite of taking this out, you'll just wanna turn it clockwise and until this feels pretty seated. But you don't have to turn very far just so that it's snug and feels like it's in place. This isn't going anywhere now.Okay. So, to connect these back up, like I said, we're gonna reuse our gray connector here. And the way this fits together is pretty obvious, but you've got a tab that sticks out on one end that goes into the walking end of the housing. And you really can't connect to this backwards. Snap back together. You can hear that pretty good snap. Push the white lock back in place. Now, you want to make sure that you get all the wiring. Again, we need to re-put that seal, that cover back in so we've got that sealed. So, you'll need to tuck all the wiring in this ballast in right here. So, do you have to do a bit of fishing, but if you just start...There's quite a bit of room in this housing. If you just start fishing I'm seeing that sort of this direction if you can see where this...and this is actually one of the headlight adjusters. If can you see where this headlight adjuster is, pretty much aiming straight down here. Looks to be a good spot, yes, to tuck everything in. And there we go. We've got it all tucked in.The cap should fit right back on. And it does. Again, just turn clockwise to tighten and we're good to go. Now, we'll just wanna put everything back in the reverse order that we took it out. And like I mentioned, there are two alignment tabs on the headlight housing. So, one of those tabs is here and the other one is here. I'm gonna put this back and make sure that you're sitting on both of those tabs there just like that. It's not really easy to install this incorrectly, but you do wanna make sure that you've got it lined up just to make sure you save yourself the headache of having to go back and take any bolts out if you've got it flipped around or anything. Once the housing is back in, we'll want to re-install those 3 10-millimeter bolts we took out. Again, I'm gonna just get these started with my ratchet and socket, and then I will move on to using the impact driver to help get them in the rest of the way.All right. When using an impact to tighten these, again, you wanna be pretty careful. If you have an adjustable impact, I would suggest putting it on the lowest setting because we just wanna run these up to snug, and then we'll finish sort of tightening them with a ratchet. And you'll see I just went first click and stopped. We'll go back to our ratchet and socket. And we're just snugging them. You don't need to go much past snug here. I'll add some extra [inaudible 00:16:36] here. And you really don't need to make these very tight. And you don't want to make them very tight. Again, we're dealing with plastic. We do not wanna break that. Okay. So, our housing backend is secured. Pretty straightforward process. Now, we will go over and do the driver's side and then we'll be great to put the grille back on.Okay. Something you definitely don't want to forget is to plug in the connector at the rear of your housing which I did just forget to do. So, I got to take all these bolts back out. And the connector just kind of falls down to the side over here. It is easy to forget because it's sort of out of the way when you go to put this back in. So, just make sure that you're plugging this connector back in where it came out of. Only one plug on the back of the housing. So, make sure it goes in there. And now I will reinstall that. Again, getting our 3 10-millimeter bolts started. Going the rest of the way with our impact, being sure not to over-tighten or over-twist these at this point. Coming back in and slugging them down with our ratchet. Two and three.All right. We're done. And hopefully, the headlights turn on this time. Wow. What a difference. The LEDs are clearly much brighter and a more whitish-blue in color, which, you know, to some that might not be a great thing to have the color shift. For me, I like it because I also have the LED fender lights which will match a lot better, but I can already tell the light output is far superior to the halogens, the factory halogens, and I cannot wait to see how much of a difference this is gonna make at night.So, the passenger's side, or the driver's side rather is gonna be a repeat of what we did on the passenger's side. We've just got the 3 10-millimeter bolts that we need to remove. Again, breaking this loose with the ratchet and socket. And go into the rest of the way out with an impact. All three removed. And then the housing which will come right out. We've got our connector here on the back. Push in the tab. Pull out. Very easy. Remove the rear cover. Hold the [inaudible 00:20:34] press it on the gray connector. It comes right off. Grab the back of the bulb housing. Turn it counterclockwise. And then it comes right out.Okay. Our LED bulb replacements line up the three [inaudible 00:21:06] tabs. Once succeeded, turn it clockwise to lock it into place. It feels pretty snug. Hook up our connector [inaudible 00:21:29] tab. And again, you're gonna wanna find a good spot to fish this down and let it come to rest in the housing. Again, I'm sort of aiming for under the adjuster that you use to align the headlight. Seems to be plenty of room down there. Again, that works great. And our wiring in. Our cover back on. Get into place. This time remembering to hook up our harness to the housing. So, lign that up so that the tabs align. Push it into place, hear the click, and that's it.Okay. Again, we've got two of our tabs here have alignment. Close them in. And tabs they wind up with. So wind those up. Set this back into place and re-install our 3 10-millimeter bolts. Again, I'm getting started with a ratchet and socket just to avoid any stripping or cross-threading. I'll drive them in with an impact, being very careful. I actually got some unexpected resistance on this one. Okay. Back it out. Went back in just fine. And that's why you really need to be careful using an impact. If your bolt is just a little bit off when you get it started, you can strip these really easy. Bottom. Go through and snug these down. One, two, three. All right. And that is it. All right. So, the last step. Now that we've got both housings plugged back in, it's gonna be to pre-install our grille. First thing you should do before you go to the trouble of putting the grille back on is making sure the lights come on. So, let's do that. All right. Those lights come on and work perfect, so we're okay to go ahead and put the grille back in place.All right. I just had my grille sitting on some extra cardboard boxes I had laying around, broke them down and laid them on the ground just to make sure that I didn't set this on any surface that was gonna scratch it up or damage it. Again, we're gonna do the reverse of taking this off. So, our first step is gonna be to align these six clicks down here. If these receivers here and the radiator support, and you do have some clearance on there, so this can kind of wiggle back and forth a little bit. After we get those six installed, we gotta make sure these two clips are here on the ends are lined up. We attach this to the front and then get our six pop rivets back into place. And you'll kind of just make sure your hand is under the grille to make sure that you don't scratch your paint up.All right. Once things are lined up, just start from one end, apply pressure right behind the clip on the grille. And you should be able to get this started without much trouble. Just working your way down one by one. You could hear those kind of clicking one by one as I applied pressure behind each. Now, if it doesn't fully seated but it is stable enough in place, then you can go ahead and line up our remaining clips. Okay. Sidewalk is in good alignment. The other thing you can do is line up your pop rivet bolts to make sure that everything is the way you expect it to be. And apply some pressure just like that.All right. Come over here and do this one. And you're just kind of applying a little pressure all the way around. Make sure everything is nice seated and back where it was. Okay. Everything feels really solid. And all of our pop rivet bolts are lined up. So, I think we've got everything back where it should be. Again, you wanna make sure that you are keeping your pop rivets somewhere safe. If any of them have separated, don't worry about it. Just make sure that you keep the inner and outer pieces so that you can put these back in. Starting from this side, you just put these back in by hand, really. It doesn't take any special tools. You wanna make sure you can either install these with the centers removed completely. What I like to do just to save a little bit of time is install these with the centers pulled out as far as possible without taking them out just to allow this portion here, this expanding portion to be able to neck down and to push it through. Two. I'm gonna put down the line here to make sure we get all six seated in there.And here's an example of one that's coming apart. So, what I'll do is I'll show you. Go ahead and put this one in without the centerpiece and then I'll line up the centerpiece because they do have a specific alignment to how they fit together. Just pop the outer piece in. Line up the centerpiece with the outline of the outer piece. And push it down and pop it into place. Again, I find it easier to install these as a unit just because as you could probably tell, they're a little bit of trouble getting it aligned, I suppose, in the grille. And to our last. Put here on the end. That's one, two, three, four, five, six. Pop that one in.Justin: So, if you're looking for an affordable way to improve the lighting situation in your halogen-equip JT at home, be sure to check out the Axial H13 bulbs right here at extremeterrain.com.
Enhanced LED Lighting. Upgrade the weak incandescent factory headlight bulbs on your Jeep Gladiator JT with these Axial H13 LED Headlight Bulbs. These high-powered LEDs replace your halogen H13 (aka 9008) bulbs to ensure that the road ahead of you is clearly lit for improved visibility and safer travels.
HID Style Lighting. Axial's H13 LED Headlight Bulbs produce a brilliant 6000K light that surpasses the color of many expensive HID (High Intensity Discharge) kits for improved vision and impressive styling, all without the high cost or installation hassles.
Dual Beam Design. These H13 Series LED Headlight Bulbs feature a dual beam design with both high and low beams in 1 convenient LED bulb making them perfect for use in your Jeep Gladiator JT.
Power Saving Technology. The included Bulbs utilize SMD LED technology to produce a super bright light, while only consuming 1/10th of the power of the factory incandescent bulb. These LED bulbs are rated at over 30,000 hours of continuous use.
Simple Installation. These Axial LED Headlight Bulbs are engineered to be a direct replacement for your Gladiator's factory halogen bulbs. The required ballasts and wiring harnesses are included making for a simple hassle free installation.
Application. These Axial H13 LED Headlight Bulbs are specifically designed for use on 2020-2023 Jeep Gladiator JT Overland and Sport models equipped with factory halogen headlight bulbs. Does not fit HID equipped models or models with aftermarket projector headlights installed.
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Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
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WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
