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SuperLift 2.50-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Superide Shocks (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK 4 Door)

Item J126649
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$424.20 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. So, today, I'm here with the SuperLift 2.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit with Superide Shocks, fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So, adding a lift to your Wrangler can add a number of different benefits, including performance and aesthetics. So, this option by SuperLift is going to do just that. This is gonna be for the JK owners who are looking for a kit that includes everything that you need to get that extra height on their Wrangler at a very affordable price. So, this is gonna do a great job at opening up a lot of room and that wheel well for a larger wheel and tire, which I'll get to tire sizes in just a minute. But it's also gonna open up a lot of room for better articulation on lighter trails. Now, it's also going to level out the rake in your hood that comes from the factory and give your Jeep a more aggressive stance, while also doing a great job at creating a little bit of extra performance on your Wrangler. Now, I would recommend this to somebody who is looking for a mild lift. Considering this is a 2.5-inch lift, that's usually doing some daily driving and any lighter trail riding. So, these are gonna come with a hydraulic shock that is gonna be perfect for that daily driver, giving you a very comfortable feel, and a very comfortable ride in your Wrangler, similar to the factory, but that added height is also gonna give you that added performance for any of those lighter trails. So, because this does come with hydraulic shocks, this is going to be more cost-effective than some other options that will be more for higher performance and some heavier trail riding. So, like I said, this is perfect for that JK owner who's looking for a kit that's very comfortable on the road for daily driving, but also is going to add that extra performance. So, as far as wheel and tire sizes go, this kit is going to allow a 35-inch tire. Now, that's gonna fill out the wheel well very nicely and still leave you some room for articulation. It's not gonna stuff the wheel well, and it still is going to allow you that performance on any of those lighter trails. Now, a 33 might look a little small, however, it's still gonna allow a lot of room in that wheel well. And if you're comfortable with the 33, it will still look nice matched up with this lift kit. So, as far as 37s go, you may be able to mount those up, however, you may have rubbing from wheel lock to wheel lock, and the bump stops are not gonna be able to accommodate for that very large tire. So, if you do hit a bump and you're not sending on flat ground, you may have some tire to fender contact. So, overall, I would recommend a 35-inch tire with this lift kit. So, like I mentioned before, this is gonna be a pretty affordable lift kit at roughly $450. And I think for what this lift comes with, that it fits that price perfectly. Now, you are getting those hydraulic shocks, which are going to be on a more cost-effective side. Like I mentioned before, when you start to take a look at other lift kits that usually incorporate nitrogen charge shock or high-performance shocks, they are going to go a bit up in price, but they also are usually going to include a lot more components when it comes to the pricier lift kits. So, then on the other hand, you may have options that are less expensive than this option, that are gonna come with less components. So, they may come with spacers instead of springs or they may not come with shocks at all. So, for $450, I personally think that that is at a really good price point for what this lift comes with. And it's gonna be perfect for that Jeep owner who is just looking for a little bit of extra height and very comfortable ride, and is not really worried about all that extra performance. So, install is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. If you are gonna tackle this in your driveway, you will need a number of basic hand tools, some specialty tools, and you're probably gonna need five hours worth of time to get the job done. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were a tape measure, a pair of safety glasses, a cut-off wheel, a dead blow, a trim removal tool, impact wrenches, pneumatic and electric, a pair of Channellocks, a 19-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 16-millimeter open-ended wrench, 16-millimeter and 9/16-inch ratcheting wrench, an 11-millimeter open-ended wrench, flathead screwdriver, a marker, a body saw, 3/8-inch drive and quarter-inch drive ratchet, a 21-millimeter, 19-millimeter, and 18-millimeter deep impact socket, a 19-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 16-millimeter swivel socket, a drill, a 7/32-inch drill bit, a center punch, an 11-millimeter shallow socket, a 10-millimeter, 3/8-inch, 10-millimeter and 11-millimeter deep socket, a 5-inch extension and a 15-inch extension. So, to kick off this lift kit, you wanna make sure that you have your Jeep up in the air. Now, we are gonna be starting in the front, so if you are on the jack and jack stands, you're gonna wanna jack up the front end chock the rear wheels. Now, next, you want to make sure that the axle is supported. Now, we're up on a lift, so I'm supporting it with a couple of pole jacks. But if you're on the ground with a jack and jack stands, you wanna make sure that it is supported with a couple of jack stands. So, next, we can go ahead and take off the bottom bolt of our sway bar end links. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench to take those off. Now, for this side, I am going to use a swivel socket on the bolt head just because there is not a lot of room. I turned the wheel or the axle all the way passenger side, and that should give us enough room to squeeze the impact in. So our next step is to take out the axle side track bar bolt. This is gonna allow our axle to drop. So I'm gonna be using a 21-millimeter deep socket, just to clear our drag link here with the impact wrench. As soon as that's removed, you wanna make sure that you grab the flag nut on the other side. We'll connect this after we're done on the ground and then we can move to lowering our axle. So what we're gonna do next is remove our lower shock bolt. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench and socket to remove that bolt. So in order to get the bolt out, it may be stuck at first, you can tinker around with the axle height, kind of put a little bit of pressure on it. And it should come loose. It looks like there's a little bit of corrosion on it, so I'm gonna hit it out with a mallet. So what we can do now is disconnect the shock completely, up at the top. Now, there is a nut on a stud up here, I recommend soaking it in a penetrating oil because these can get very rusty. Now I'm also gonna use an open-ended 16-millimeter wrench to hold the shock body still, with this captured nut here. Now, you can take a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench and take the nut off the top here. So what I'm actually gonna do is wedge this 16-millimeter wrench up against the shock tower. So, unfortunately, while I was trying to ratchet the nut off of the stud on the top of our shock, the stud broke. Now, this is a very common problem for JK shocks. They do rust a lot up here just because it is more of an enclosed area. And if it does break, all you have to do is just completely take it out because we are getting all of the replacement pieces in order to put in our new shock. So this is not a problem, so we're just going to go ahead and take out the rest of our shock, making sure that we grab the rest of our hardware that's on top of that shock tower. So I'm just lowering the axle a little bit, give myself a little bit of wiggle room. And then it should wiggle right out. You can tell right there where it broke. And then you'll be able to grab the cup washer and the blushing from the top, and those are gonna be replaced as well. So we can move over to the other side. So on the passenger side for the upper shock tower, there is a battery tray here that's not going to allow you to get a wrench or really anything in there. So what I did was took a body saw and kind of trimmed that off. This has no structural integrity on the bottom here, so it does not matter if you trim that off. And then we'll have access to that top nut, which makes it easy in the future if you ever wanna replace your shocks. So what I'm gonna do is take that 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench and go ahead and remove that. So on this side because there's not a lot of room, I am using the open-ended part of the wrench. I can't really fit the ratcheting wrench in here, so it might take a little bit longer. So what we're gonna do next is remove our brake line bracket from our frame, just to make sure that this has a little bit of slack when we lower our axle. I'm using a 10-millimeter deep socket or you could just use a 10-millimeter socket to remove that bracket. On the driver side too, you're gonna have your breather tube. What we can do is take a trim removal tool and get that little clip out of our ABS line, and then this will have a little bit more slack to it. So what we can do next is remove our lower brake line bracket. Now we are gonna be cutting this off in just a minute. However, I want to make sure that this is out of the lower spring perch while we take out our springs. So I'm using a 10-millimeter deep socket. And after that bolt is removed, what we can do is pull up the front and wiggle out the bracket. So it just got stuck. What I'm gonna do is just pry it off. So what we can do now is start to lower down our axle, so we can take out our springs. Wanna try to keep the axle as even as possible. Once we drop it down to its lowest point, what we can do is just move our sway bar out of the way. We'll be putting new brackets on here. So before we go ahead and install our new suspension system, I did wanna tell you guys a little bit more about the major components, especially in comparison to the factory setup, and what you're gonna get out of this new system that you're not really getting with the old system. So, right off the bat, this is going to be a huge opportunity to replace any worn or damaged parts from your factory setup. As you can tell, we have a lot of wear and tear on the bushings and the shock body, as well as the springs. You can tell that there's a lot of rust and they've been going for a very long time. And this is not only gonna serve as a big upgrade, especially in performance, but it's also gonna do a great job at some restoration. So starting off with the shocks there are two big schools of thought when it comes to shocks. You have a nitrogen charge shock and a hydraulic shock. So starting off with the nitrogen, that's usually going to be for somebody who's looking for a little bit more performance than the factory setup or the hydraulic shock. So that's gonna be for somebody who's working the shock really hard and looking to do bumps at fast speeds, just because it is going to reduce shock fade or cavitation, which is foaming forming inside the shock body over time. Now there's also a hydraulic shock, which is very similar to the factory. And that's gonna give you a very fluid and comfortable ride and perfect for somebody who's looking to mainly stay on the street as a daily driver, but also do some lighter trails. And that's exactly the setup that we have here with the Superide shocks. So that's exactly what we're getting out of this Superide shock. It's going to be a velocity valve hydraulic shock, it is gonna be a big upgrade from the factory shock. It is gonna last a little bit longer. But you're still gonna get that fluid and comfortable feel out of this setup over the factory, with also a step up in performance. So enough about these two side by side, let's go ahead and install our new suspension system. So our next step is going to be to install our springs. I have someone holding down the axle, just because it didn't drop far enough. But once you have it seated into place, we can do the same thing for the other side. So what we're gonna do now is remove our brake line bracket. Now, what I'm gonna do is mount this up to its stock location, but leave this tab out. So I wanna leave this area open because we are gonna make a notch in it. And we're also going to take off our ABS line. So what I'm going to do is take our 10-millimeter bolt and mount that back up. You could also grab a pair of vise grips and clamp it to one of these mounts. I just find it easiest to reuse the bolt. You just wanna make sure this is stationary. What I'm gonna do now is grab a trim removal tool and we're going to pop out these clips in that bracket and get our ABS line out of the way. All right, then we can just pop them out from our soft line. And what I do is just tuck it up in the spring. We're gonna grab it in just a second, but I wanna make sure that it's out of the way of our cut-off wheel. And then what we're gonna do now is take a cut-off wheel and make a small notch, making sure not to touch the brake line. If you do happen to mess up this soft line, you will have to replace it. So, you wanna make sure that you're staying away from the soft line. You're preserving that and we're only just removing this bracket here. What we can do is wiggle that soft line out and then completely remove this bracket with that 10-millimeter socket like we did before. So after we have our old bracket off, what we can do is install our new bracket. Now, you are gonna have a passenger and driver side, making sure that the numbers or the part number are facing the inside. So, I'm gonna hook the tab on just like our old bracket and pop that one into place. Now you are gonna get new hardware. I'm gonna take the bolt, flat washer, and nylon lock nut that they provide, and bolt that into the factory location. So we can tighten that down with an 11-millimeter socket and an 11-millimeter wrench. Now what we can do is pop this ABS line back into place on our soft line, and these two clips are going to pop through the two tabs on that bracket. Now, this one broke off, so we won't be able to install that one. What we can do with our soft line is grab this clamp and the same hardware that we secured the bracket with and install that through the hole in the middle, and we can tighten that down with the same 11-millimeter socket and wrench. Once that clamp is tightened down, then we can do the same thing on the other side. So before we can install our shocks on our Wrangler, we do have to prep them and press in the bushings and the metal sleeves. I already took care of the front ones, but I did one to do the rear shocks at the same time and show you how to do this. So we're gonna take the hourglass poly bushing and press that in. You are gonna need a vise grip in order to do this. You should be able to do this without a vise grip, but a vise grip makes it 10 times easier. So, we're gonna press in the hourglass poly bushing. Make sure that it's centered in the shock and try not to tear the bushing. And then once that's in place, we can take our metal sleeve, gonna put it in the place halfway, put it in our vise, and press it into place. And then we'll be ready to install these on our Wrangler. So now, we can install our front shock, making sure that we have our cup washer on the bottom and then our bushing, and then it's gonna be the opposite on the other side, and then we can attach our nut. So we're gonna send that on through where our factory one was, making sure that our bushing and our cup washer are on top, and the stud is going through them. Then we can take our new provided nut and thread that on to the top there. And then once that's threaded on, what we can do is take a 9/16-inch wrench and tighten that down. So now, we can attach the bottom. You should be able to move the shock body around freely. We're gonna reuse our factory bolt and tighten that down with the same 18-millimeter socket and wrench. So what we can do while we're here is just really secure this brake line bracket using the factory bolt and tightening it down with a 10-millimeter socket. Then we can do the same thing on the other side. So our next step is to install our sway bar end link front brackets. So, you are gonna have a driver and a passenger side. There is going to be a cutout for the axle. So we are going to put that into place. And this is basically just gonna move your sway bar links up, instead of extending your sway bar links. So we're gonna take the provided bolt, flat washer, and nylon lock nut, and secure that down to the factory bracket. After that's on there, we can take the factory bolt for our sway bar end link and mount that up to the inside of the bracket. Now you wanna make sure that this lip is facing the inside. And then before we tighten these down, just to give some adjustability to our sway bar, we can do the same thing on the other side. So what we can do now is tighten both of those down. You're gonna be using a 19-millimeter wrench and socket. I'm gonna be using a swivel socket on this bottom bolt. And then to tighten the top, we're gonna be using that same 18-millimeter swivel and 18-millimeter wrench that we used before. Then we can repeat that process on the other side. So after those are buttoned up, what we can do is move to the back. So all we have left to do in the front is just reconnect our track bar, but we do have to do that on the ground. So, our next step is to move to the back, support our axle and then we can take off our rear shocks. So I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter deep socket and an 18-millimeter wrench, and we can remove this bottom bolt. So we can repeat that process on the other side. You may have to tinker with the height of the axle in order to get that bolt out. So our next step is to remove the top two bolts that are holding in the top of the shock in the bar pin. So I'm going to use a 16-millimeter swivel socket, and a 15-inch extension, and my impact wrench to remove those. So our next step is to remove our sway bar end links. Now we only have to remove the bottom bolt. So I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench in order to get that bottom bolt off. So what we have to do next is take out the axle side track bar bracket. This is gonna allow our axle to drop. So I'm using a 21-millimeter socket, just like we did in the front. Make sure you grab that flag nut, and then what we can do now is focus on our brake lines. So our next step is to remove our brake line bracket from our frame. Just like the front, I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket. And we're gonna unhook that from the frame. So, just like the hard-line, where you do need to take off the ABS line, I'm gonna use a trim removal tool and remove these clips from the frame. That's just gonna give us some extra slack, so when we drop our axle, we're not maxing out our brake line. So our next step is to drop the axle. I would recommend just pulling off this breather hose. All you have to do is pull it off the axle here and then we can drop our axle down. So I would still recommend to keep an eye on your brake lines. After you've disconnected most of the clips and the brackets, they should be pretty good, but you still want to make sure you're keeping an eye on those. And then once the axle is dropped pretty far down, we will be able to take out our springs. So what we can do is kind of pull down on the axle. You might not need to, but the spring should pop right out. So after we have our old springs out, what we can do is grab our new spring and set it into place. I recommend to have somebody hold down on the axle just because these are a little bit taller. Now, you can loosen up the control arms, but you don't necessarily have to. So, on to the other side. So what we can do now is start to raise this back up. It's not gonna sit exact because the axle is rolled back. So if it's a rubbing on your E-brake line, that is okay while the axle is dropped. You just wanna make sure that it's positioned correctly in the upper isolator where your factory one was, and we can start to lift it up. So when you start to lift it up, it's gonna roll back into place and it's gonna clear the brake line bracket. So our next step is going to be to straighten out our brake line. We do have to put in a self-tapping screw here to hold it, so we can drop this down and give it a little bit of slack with our new lift height. So I'm gonna take a trim removal tool and pop out this clip. So you won't actually need this anymore, so we can take this off, but we will have to straighten out this brake line. We're just gonna straighten out that kink there. So after the brake line is most of the way straightened out, it's going to allow it to drop, so we do need to get this bracket out of the way or this little clip here, I'm just gonna use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off. And we can take that off of the hard-line. So what we can do now is measure over 3 and 3/8 inches from this bump stop, and drill a hole. Then we can grab a 7/32-inch drill, and drill a hole for our self-tapping screw. So our next step is to attach our clamp as well as our self-tapping screw. So I'm gonna hook the clamp on, line it up where we just drilled, take our self-tapping screw and a 3/8-inch drill bit, and attach that clamp.So what we can do now is attach our brake line drop bracket. I am using the driver side. They are going to be side specific. You wanna make sure that it clips into the frame like the factory brake line bracket. And I'm just gonna loosely attach that while I attach the bottom. So this is going to sit inside this bracket here, and we'll be able to take our provided hardware, and attach that through our drop bracket. So we can tighten up our top bolt from the factory with a 10-millimeter socket. And then the bottom one, with an 11-millimeter socket and a 11-millimeter wrench. Then we can do the same thing on the other side. So what we can do is remove this clip with the trim removal tool. And we'll be just throwing this in the trash because we won't be reusing this. After that's off, we can take a flathead screwdriver and pry open the clip. Take that off the brake line. And then what we're gonna have to do with the brake line is straighten out, so we can gain a little bit of extra length. So after it's straightened out, what we need to do is measure over 3 and 3/8 inches, and 1 and 3/8 inches down, and then we'll be able to drill a hole and attach a self-tapping screw. So we wanna measure over from this hole on the bump stop mount. So what I'm gonna do is just mark where we need to drill with a marker. Then, we can grab a 7/32-inch drill, drill a hole for our self-tapping screw. So what we can do next is grab our clamp, hook that around, pinch it down. Then we can grab our self-tapping screw and a 3/8-inch socket, and tighten that down to the frame. So this should still be able to move within the bracket if you need to move it over. But now we can attach our brake line drop bracket. So what we can do now is grab our brake line drop bracket. This is gonna be side-specific. We can take our factory bolt and put that into the retainer clip. I'm not gonna tighten it down just yet. I wanna make sure we can grab our brake line and line it up. You can grab our provided bolt, flat washer, and nylon lock nut. So then we can tighten that down with an 11-millimeter socket and wrench. And last but not least, we can tighten down that top bolt with a 10-millimeter socket. So after we have our brake line situated, what we're gonna do next is reattach our sway bar end links. Now the rear ones don't come with brackets because they are longer, so we're gonna take the factory bolt and just reattach this at the bottom. If you need to pull the sway bar down, you can do that and then we can tighten it up with an 18-millimeter wrench and socket. Now you can do the same thing on the other side. So now we can install our shock starting with the top. What I like to do is thread in the harder to reach bolt, the one towards the frame, and then we can hook the bar pin on and attach the other side. So once the bar pin is captured, we can take that 15-inch extension for this. So because these are hydraulic shocks, you will be able to move them pretty freely. And then we can install our factory bolt and tighten it down with an 18-millimeter wrench and socket. So after you get the tires on and the Jeep is down on the ground, you want to wiggle the back end of your Wrangler, and you will be able to get the track bar bolt in place. Then you want to attach these flag nut and then we can tighten it down with a 21-millimeter socket. So to line up your front track bar, I would recommend grabbing a friend and having them turn the steering wheel back and forth, and you'll be able to get that bolt through. Then we can take a 21-millimeter socket and tighten it down. So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Suspension Lift Kit
      • Lift Front and Rear 2.50 Inches
      • Keeps Factory Ride Quality
      • Front and Rear Superide Hydraulic Shocks
      • Front and Rear Pre-Set Lifted Coil Springs
      • Includes Brake Hose Relocation Brackets
      • Accommodates 35-Inch Wide Tires (Max)
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Lift Force Supplemental Limited Powertrain Warranty
      • Fits All 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK 4 Door Models

      Description

      Off-Road Capabilities with On-Road Comfort. Give your 4-door Wrangler JK improved off-roading capabilities, while maintaining its factory ride quality with the SuperLift 2.50 inch Suspension Lift Kit with Superide Shocks. This lift kit provides 2.50 inches of front and rear lift, which is ideal for accommodating 33-35 inch wide tires. The combination of the new, 2.50-inch lift and the larger tires makes for a more capable off-roading vehicle without losing ride comfort.

      High-Performance Superide Shocks. The SuperLift 2.50 inch Suspension Lift Kit includes Superide Shocks for the front and rear. These high-performance shocks are capable of providing your JK with the right amount of dampening, no matter the terrain due to its 10-stage velocity valving design. Additionally, its twin tube style ensures excellent ride quality, both on and off the road.

      Specialized Pre-Set Coil Springs. The SuperLift 2.50 inch Suspension Lift Kit with Superide Shocks uses coil springs to provide the 2.50 inches of height. These coil springs are constructed from super-strong, 5160 spring steel and are finished in a black-powder coating for added rust protection. Additionally, these coil springs are pre-set, eliminating any setting, and contributing to the overall excellent ride quality.

      Comes with Brake Hose Relocation Brackets. To maximize your new ride height, you’ll need to relocate your brake hoses so that these do not interfere with any of the new lift components. The SuperLift 2.50 inch Suspension Lift Kit with Superide Shocks comes with brake hose relocation brackets, specifically for this purpose. These brackets are made from steel for durability, and are black powder-coated for rust resistance.

      No Mod Installation. The SuperLift 2.50 inch Suspension Lift Kit with Superide Shocks installs on existing factory locations and does not require modifications to your Jeep. The installation will require specialized tools and expert-level mechanical skills. Consequently, installation by a professional is recommended.

      Warranty.Superlift is excited to announce that all lift and leveling kits now come with a free Lift Force Supplemental Limited Powertrain Warranty. This warranty will protect you from disputes with original equipment manufacturers who are unfamiliar with aftermarket suspension systems. The Lift Force Warranty goes into effect if the manufacturer or dealership denies your drivetrain warranty claim due to installation of your Superlift lift or leveling kit.

      Application. The SuperLift 2.50 inch Suspension Lift Kit with Superide Shocks fits all 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK 4-door models.

      Application Notes. While the SuperLift 2.50 inch Suspension Lift Kit can be equipped with 35-inch tires, a compression travel dampener kit needs to be installed if you take your Jeep on aggressive off-road drives, where full suspension articulation is likely to occur. Additionally, some trimming to your Jeep’s rear fender well opening is also required to ensure proper clearance of these larger tires. Your steering wheel also needs to be centered and your caster properly realigned.

      Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details

      SuperLift K931

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Coil Springs
      • (2) Rear Coil Springs
      • (2) Front Shock Absorbers
      • (2) Rear Shock Absorbers
      • (2) Front Brake Line Relocation Brackets
      • (2) Rear Brake Line Relocation Brackets
      • (2) Sway Bar Brackets
      • (4) Caster Alignment Plates
      • Installation Hardware
      4.5

      Customer Reviews (14)

        Reviews of SuperLift Suspension products have an average rating of 4.5 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Wrangler

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