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Man 1: This inner cooled RIPP supercharger kit is for those of you that have a 2015 to 2018 JK, that are looking to add a ton of additional power to your Jeep. This is going to be a kit that is in bolt on installation. Anybody can do in their driveway or in their garage in about a day or so, and we'll talk a little bit more about that installation in just a second. So if you have a JK, you have some maybe bigger tires on the Jeep, it's feeling like it's a little bit sluggish, a little bit slower, adding some power is probably on your mind. I always recommend going to re-gearing first if you're feeling sluggish because of a big tire. There's nothing like giving your Jeep back that mechanical advantage of having the proper gear ratio, but if you've already done that and you're still looking for a little bit more of a push, forced injection is a great way to go and if you're looking at that, again, I liked the rip kits for the ease of installation and also for how reliable they are once you get everything installed. Now a supercharger is not going to be an inexpensive way to add power to your Jeep, but it is going to be an incredibly effective one if you have the budget.As far as the way this kit is assembled, it comes with all of the pieces that you need, and the main piece is this centrifugal supercharger. So this is going to be a belt-driven supercharger. It might look a little bit like a turbo to some of you guys right off the bat, but it is belt-driven, so it is going to be a supercharger. And this uses the Vortech V-3 supercharger. It is a tried and true supercharger. It is going to work and work really well for you. All of the rest of the bits that were put together are designed to make this bolt directly into your JK.So again, this kit does come with the inner cooler. You can get the kit without the inner cooler if you wanna save a little bit of money if you don't feel like you need it, but this air to air intercooler is going to cool down that charged air, so you're going to be able to get that much more power out of the Jeep. The rest of the components are all sort of supporting cast for what you see over here, so you're going to have some larger injectors. Anytime you put more air into the engine, you're also going to have to put more fuel into it. You have your tensioner over here, because of course you're going to have a different belt routing for your new supercharger. You're going to have your air filter, everything else that goes along with this to make it a completely bolt-on install right here, you have a trans cooler as well. This kit is specifically for those of you with the automatic transmission, so it does come with that transcooler. Putting a little bit more power through the transmission can heat things up and heat is definitely the enemy of an auto trans. So you have that additional cooler right here. Now the reason that this kit is for a '15 to '18 JK is because of the way the ECUs are on those jeeps. There wasn't a good way to completely crack the ECU using a tuner. So what you have to do is during this installation, you have to pull out your ECU. You have to send it to RIPP with some additional information, and then they'll send you back a cracked ECU that will then let you use the Diablo sport tuner that's included in this kit to get everything up and running for you. So as I mentioned, with the '15 to '18 JKs, you do have to send out your ECU to RIPP to them crack that before you can tune your Jeep. That's what we did. And then put it on the rollers. Stock, the Jeep made 190 horsepower and 197 foot pounds of torque. And after installing the supercharger, it made 309 horsepower and 281 foot pounds of torque. It is a total peak gain of 119 horsepower and 84 foot pounds of torque and curve gains at around 6,000 RPM of 121 horsepower and 107 foot pounds of torque.Forced induction is certainly not an inexpensive way to get more power out of your Jeep, but it is a very effective one. And if you have the $6,900 budget, I would definitely recommend it for this kit. There are some other superchargers out there, some root style and some other brands out there that will still give you some gains. But for reliability and for ease of install, I really like the rib kit, so I would definitely recommend going with this option if you have the money. This is going to be a kit that is in bolt-on installation. Anybody can do in their driveway or in their garage in about a day or so. We're gonna have one of our members of the install team show you exactly how to do it.Man 2: First step, we're gonna remove the factory airbox. Using a flat-head screwdriver, we're gonna loosen the band clamp up. We're gonna use a 10 millimeter to remove these two front bolts. Unhook the airbox. We have to disconnect this tube back here. And then we'll swing this whole assembly out, and then we'll disconnect this line down here. To remove the lower section of the airbox, just pull up on it. Next step, we're gonna remove the upper shroud. Just wanna pry the push pins out, and then we'll remove it and set it aside. Next step, we're going to remove the coolant overflow tank. There's one pushpin in the top. We're gonna go ahead and remove that. Can do this using a flat-head screwdriver. Flat out, disconnect this line. By pulling up on it, you can slide it up and out of the vehicle. We're gonna set this aside. This will not be reused later on.Next step, we're gonna disconnect the vacuum lines, map sensor and the throttle body. Start by pulling the vacuum lines off. May need to use a flat-head screwdriver to loosen the rubber. Disconnect the map sensor. I'm gonna release the red locking tab, and then we'll disconnect the throttle body. And then we'll free up these wires here. Next step we're gonna disconnect the large data plug on the passenger side. Pull back on the red locking tab, squeeze the tab on the side, and pull the sleeve towards you, and we'll separate the plug. After you've disconnected the harness, we're gonna pry up on this clip here to separate it from the intake manifold. Tuck that up and out of the way.Next step is to remove the intake manifold. We'll begin using an eight millimeter to remove the top seven screws. Disconnect these tubes from the intake and move them out of your way. To access this last bolt, we're gonna pry this foam piece off and remove that from the vehicle. These are captured bolts, so we're gonna leave them in there for now and we'll pull that whole intake off. So now we're gonna switch to a 10-millimeter and we're gonna remove these two on the side of the intake and we're gonna save this for reuse later. Using a 10, we're gonna remove these two nuts and then we'll pull this whole plate out so we can get the intake out. Once you have all four nuts off, go ahead and pry these lines up and off, and that should give us enough to get the intake out.Next step, we're gonna remove these two on the driver's side and these two up here and disconnect this line and then we'll take this whole intake out. After that's done, you wanna just check for any hoses or wires that are still connected, and then we'll go ahead and try to pull this intake off.Male 2: Once we have everything disconnected, all the lines and wires, we're gonna go ahead and pull this off. And just lift it up, slide it to the side. After you've removed the intake manifold, cover it with a rag or a piece of tape. Making sure you get no debris inside the intake. Now that we've removed the intake manifold, we're gonna go ahead and pull the factory injectors. We're gonna begin by removing this foam piece, setting that. We'll begin by prying up on the red locking tab. Once we released that, we can disconnect the injectors. I'm gonna press in the tab on the side, and then plug the injector. Using a 10-millimeter socket, we're gonna disconnect the rest of this plate to remove it to access the injectors. There are 2 10-millimeter nuts down on the side, that we're gonna try to get out. Once you've removed the last two nuts, we're gonna go ahead and remove this harness from the plate, and then we're gonna pull the plate out. After we have all the injectors unplugged, we're gonna disconnect the fuel line here at the rail and we're gonna relieve some of this pressure. We are gonna wanna place a rag there because it will spill a little bit of fuel. So once we get the blue lock off then we can remove the other lock and pull this fuel rail off. Next we're gonna use a T-27 torx bit to remove the fuel rail bolts. Now, we can go ahead and try to remove the fuel rail. So now that we have the fuel rail out, we're gonna go ahead and switch to the new injectors. If you wanna pull the OEM injectors out, place a small amount of grease on the O-ring for ease of installation, and we'll go ahead and install that in the fuel rail. Same thing. Pull the next one out. Uncap the new injector. Install some grease around it, and we'll reinsert it. So now that we have the new injectors installed in the fuel rail, we're ready to reinstall it in the vehicle. RIPP supplies you with new screws and spacers since the new injectors are taller than the factory ones. Now that we have that in place, we wanna get our spacers installed. Drop this where they need to go. Go ahead and drop one of these screws through and get them started. Whatever you do, do not drop it down the intake. All right. So now that we have the new screws, the spacers, and the injectors installed, we're gonna go ahead and make sure that those are seated and then we'll go ahead and tighten these screws up. All right. Now, once you're done that, you wanna cover your intake back up. So we don't want any debris to fall in there. We're gonna reconnect all the injectors. Make sure to lock those red locking tabs. Push this harness back in. Do the same thing for the other side. Make sure they seat all the way down and lock.The next step is going to be to remove the coil packs, pull the spark plugs out. We're gonna regap them. Using a 10 millimeter socket. We're gonna go ahead and take the bolts out, holding the coils down. So we're just gonna pull these coils out and move them, set them aside. After you remove the coils, we're gonna pull the plugs out. We're gonna use a 5/8. And then most likely, you'll need a magnet to fish them out. So once you have the plug out, we're gonna check the gap. They want the gap to be .032. We're gonna bend the electrode a little bit. Just keep measuring until we get a good fit.Once you have a gap to .032, we're gonna place it back in there. We'll fish another one out, and we'll do the same. Now that we have them properly gapped, we're gonna go ahead and tighten them back up and reinsert the coil pack. So now that we have the plugs tightened up, we're gonna go ahead and reinsert the coils and then we'll continue with the other side.Now that the plugs are gapped and back in, we're gonna go ahead and reinsert the coils. These are 10-millimeter. Tighten up the coil pack. So the next step, since we installed tolerate injectors, we're gonna need to trim the intake manifold. So I'll show you how to do that right now. So first, we're gonna need to trim these two edges off and then we'll have to grind that at a slant. So now that we've cut this section out, we're gonna go ahead and grind that on an angle. Now that we've done the final trimming on the intake, we're gonna go ahead and put that back on the vehicle. We're gonna put this hose back on that we took off. We're gonna begin by reinserting the piece of film on the driver's side. Once we have that on there, we'll go ahead and reinsert the intake manifold. To fit it into the brackets on the driver's side, we're gonna need to shift to the passenger side slightly.Once we have it on there, we'll go ahead and go around and start all the bolts. You wanna make sure nothing is caught in the intake manifold when folding it back on. Everything is free. Then we'll go around and we'll just do the final torque. Now, once we have that all bolted down, we're gonna go ahead and reconnect all the vacuum lines, the map sensor, and the throttle body. So one more hose over here on the side. And then there's gonna be two nuts here and two nuts back there, and we'll require a 10 millimeter-socket. So now we're ready to reinstall this plate. So now that we have this installed, we're gonna go ahead and connect the main harness here. Watch that, push the locking tab in. So now we're gonna remove the factory map sensor and we're gonna install the new one that RIPP provides. We need to get a good spot. Go ahead and pry that up. Next step, we're gonna remove the electric cooling fan. There's two 8-millimeter bolts. We're gonna unplug that and pull it out.Next step, we're gonna remove the serpentine belt from the power steering pump pulley using a half-inch drive breaker bar. Using a half-inch breaker bar, loosen tension on the belt, and pull it off the power steering pump. Next step, we're gonna remove the tensioner. Using a 13-millimeter, remove the upper and lower bolt. Removing the tensioner exposes this cover plate. Use a 16-millimeter socket to remove that cover plate. Next step, we're gonna remove the power steering pump. There's 2 13-millimeter bolts up top and 1 down in the bottom. After we do that, we're just gonna let it hang to the side. So now we're ready to install the relocation brackets from RIPP. The top bracket has applied 5/16'' Allen head screws. And then we're gonna reuse the factory hardware for the upper. After you have the Allen key bolts installed, we're gonna torque them to 18 foot pounds. Next step, we're gonna install the lower relocation mount. We're gonna use the factory bolt to bolt it to the block. So now that we have the relocation mounts installed, we're gonna go and install the power steering pump. We're gonna slip the lower end onto the stud. We're gonna reuse the factory hardware for the two top ones.Next, we're gonna drain the coolant out of the radiator. First we'll remove the radiator cap and then we'll unscrew the petcock underneath to drain the fluid. Next step, we're gonna remove the lower rad hose. We're gonna slide that factory clamp back off. Pull off the rad hose after the radiator has drained. And then we're gonna trim three to four inches off of it. So now we're gonna measure about three inches back. Now that we've got that cut, go ahead and reinstall that. Reinstall the clamp. Then you wanna point the clamp at the 11:00 position so that it doesn't contact the supercharger or any piping. Next step, we're gonna remove this clamp and pull this hose off. Now that we have this hose off, we're gonna measure 1.5 inches back, and then we're going to cut that off. The next step, we're gonna take a three ACE drive extension. We're gonna insert it into this tube, and RIPP once you to bend it up till we have about a quarter-inch in between the alternator and the tube. Just like that. And we're going to bend this tube up, and reinstall that.Next step, we're gonna install the supplied tensioner with the supplied 10-millimeter bolt, and the neutral orientation of the tensioner is gonna be about 1:00. Next step, we're gonna remove the power steering reservoir. We're gonna let that hang to the side, and that will give us access to the 10-millimeters holding the radiator, so the radiator support.So we're gonna take both of these out of both sides. Now, we're gonna pull the bushings out and that way, we can move the radiator forward. So we'll make room for the supercharger. So now, we're gonna place the bushings on the back side, and we're gonna reinstall those. Once you've done that, you can reinstall the power steering reservoir. Next, we're gonna remove the upper three bolts. This will get us ready to install the supercharger bracket. We're gonna need a 13 for the 2 lowers and a 15 for the upper.So the next step, we're gonna bend this lower heater hose up until it's about the same height as this. That's gonna leave you room to install that supercharger in there. Once we get the supercharger in, you may need to tweak this slightly more. So we're gonna bend it up, and then bend this lower section in. That should be good like that for now. So the next step in this installation, we're gonna prep the blower to install on the vehicle. RIPP tells you to uninstall the shipping plug and then we're gonna reinstall a new vent plug with a copper washer and you're gonna need a 3/16'' Allen key for this. So at this point in time, we're ready to install the supercharger. So we're gonna need to bend that line some more. Let's see if that gives us enough room. So while you're supporting the supercharger, we're gonna go ahead and fish it around the pulley. Trying to get this somewhat set up. Once you've got that, you can insert this bolt here. All right. So now that we have the supercharger in, we're gonna go around and tighten all these bolts up. And then we'll work on getting the belt tension around the new tensioner. So now that we have the supercharger all tightened down, we're gonna go ahead and reinstall the belt. You wanna use a 3/8 drive ratchet or a breaker bar to get to the tensioner, the supplied tensioner that RIPP offered us. And then we're gonna go ahead and get the belt back on.Make sure that the belt is on all the pulleys and lined up. And then once you've got that, you're good. Next step, we're gonna remove the grille so we can pull out the factory transmission cooler. There are six clips located in the top of the grille. You can pry up on the center to remove them. Once you've done that, set your clips aside so you don't lose them. We'll pull the grill forward and then you're just gonna pull on the bottom to disconnect it. Once you've done that, we're gonna pull the grill forward a little bit and then we'll disconnect these lights. We need to pull back on the red locking tab. And then squeeze the black plastic tab, and then you can unclip the light. We'll begin by disconnecting the transmission lines at the cooler. You're gonna use a 10-millimeter to remove the bolt and place a rag underneath as a little oil may spill out. Next, we'll use our 10-millimeter to remove the three bolts holding the cooler in. Passenger side is gonna be an 8-millimeter bolt. Once we have all of those removed, we can pull the transmission cooler out. Be careful not to tip it as oil may spill.So to disconnect these lines, you're gonna need to pull this cap off of the top. Once you have this cap up, there's gonna be a spring clip here, and if you can find the orientation, we can go ahead and use a pick tool to pry that off. Now once we get that off, we'll be able to disconnect the line. So you wanna do that for the other side as well. You're gonna wanna place a bucket underneath or a towel to catch any fluid that falls. All right. So now that these are disconnected, we're gonna go ahead and pull them out. These will not be reused as RIPP provides new rubber lines to install. So we're now ready to install the supplied transmission cooler from RIPP. So we're gonna go ahead and get started on that. Okay. So we're gonna begin by peeling the backing off of these blocks, and we're gonna attach them to the back of the transmission cooler. That way, they'll stick on there, you'll insert that through there, install the supplied foam block. We'll go ahead and do that with the other side. And we'll find a spot to push this through and you don't wanna force it. Install a block on the backside.Now that we have all those in place, we're gonna go ahead and drop this in and push it the rest of the way through the condenser and the radiator. We're gonna measure 4 inches above the cross member. And then once we have that set, then go ahead and start poking this through. Once you have this fully inserted, we're gonna go ahead and insert these locking tabs. Then we go ahead and pull this tight, and then we'll trim them later on. So now that we have the cooler secured and mounted, we're gonna go ahead and hook the lines up. So we're gonna run this line down through here. Install one of the supplied clamps. Once we have that line on, you can go ahead and tighten this clamp up. You're gonna need a quarter-inch socket. Now that we have that tight, we're gonna go down, cut the end of this line off, and install it on the transline. So now, we'll fish our line up here, get an idea of how long we need to cut it.I'm gonna cut it right about there. I'll install the hose clamp. Once you have the rubber line on, we can go ahead and tighten the clamp up. Now that we have that tight, we'll go ahead and get the other line installed. And we're gonna run this other line back up so we can attach it to the transmission cooler. Same thing. Get an idea how much line you need, and then we're gonna cut the excess off and we'll go ahead and install it on the transmission cooler. You wanna install the clamp so you are gonna be able to tighten it once you have it on. So I'll slide this on. In this step, we will be modifying the fan to fit around the supercharger air inlet. First step. We're gonna undo this wiring and we're gonna zip tie it out of the way so we can make our cuts and keep it safe. We're gonna need to cut this about half as tall as it is. And then we'll need to grind this section down as well. So we'll make our marks. Then we need to grind some of this off and this will have to get completely off.So now that we've trimmed the fan shroud, we're gonna go ahead, cut the zip tie off. I'm gonna reroute this harness to down under here and we're gonna get that tucked in there, flatten that out. So we want this wire to stay in this little notch that we carved out. So we're gonna apply a zip tie here and that should hold it down. All right. So installing the fan, we wanna get that one side under. Pass it down. Now, the two bottom have tabs that are gonna slide into their little holders. You wanna make sure that those are seated so your fan doesn't move around. Now that that's back in, we can go ahead and reinsert the 8-millimeter screws, one for each side at the top, and then we'll tighten those up. We're gonna plug this back into that, and then plug the fan back in. To make room for the intercooler piping that's gonna pass through here, we're gonna remove these clips and trim these pieces off. So using a screwdriver or a trim panel removal tool, we're gonna remove these clips here. And then we're just gonna cut and trim off this excess. We're gonna do the same thing with the other side. Pull the two pins out. Next step in the install process, since we have to feed this tube through here, we're gonna have to trim some of that away so that it fits. So what we're gonna do, we're gonna take the intercooler and RIPP wants you to center it. So we're gonna get it centered and then we're gonna mark about where we have to cut and then we'll go ahead and trim that and then we'll test fit it again. This should give us plenty of room to fit that pipe through. Okay. It looks like we should be good so we can start piecing it together. We're gonna do the same thing for the other side. We're gonna need a trim so we can fit the inner cooler piping through. If you wanna clean up those edges, you can use a file. So now that we have both sides trimmed, we're gonna go ahead and start assembling the intercooler and the piping. So we're gonna pull both these ends off. We're gonna take the two sleeves that are provided, we'll insert this. Make sure to put your band clamp on. We'll just snug those up for now.Then, we're gonna fit the other sections of pipe. So make sure to install your clamp. We're gonna slide this piece of pipe through. Now we're gonna go inside, remove this piece of plastic. We're gonna take this section. We're gonna try to fit that all in there. Now once it's sufficiently on far enough, we'll go ahead. We'll tighten this clamp up. We're gonna do all the finishing tightening later on.All right. So now we're ready to assemble the other side. Go ahead and place your clamp on. It's pretty loose so you can get it a little tight. We're gonna feed this pipe through. Now you may have to bend your AC line to get this pipe to fit through. So this AC line right here, this lower one, that contacts the pipe. So we're gonna need to bend it to the side a little bit. I'm trying to get it out of our way. All right. So once you have this pipe in, we're gonna go ahead and just tighten this clamp up just a little bit because we're still gonna have to mess with everything. So now that we have this driver side pipe in, we're gonna go ahead and install the next angled rubber hose. You may need to bend this power steering line out of the way and this AC line here so that you can fit this piece in. And it's a very tight fit. Slide our next plate clamp on. Then we're ready for the next section. Next, we're gonna install the blow off valve into this pipe. Slide that on. Place the clamp on. Tighten it up with a flathead screwdriver. Make sure both those clamps are nice and tight. We're gonna install this piece over here, facing down like that. Once we've got that in, go ahead, tighten this clamp up a little bit. All right, so the last piece of the puzzle. Next step, we're gonna install this elbow.Right now we've got that on, tighten that. So now that we have the intercooler installed and all the piping, we're gonna mount the brackets on it. RIPP supplies you with L-brackets and hardware to install this. We're gonna use our 10-millimeter hardware to install in the top of the bracket. Next, we'll be removing the factory temp sensor. You wanna spin this counterclockwise and then we can go ahead and wiggle it out. And we're gonna remove the O ring, we're gonna plug it in, and insert it into that groove then.I need to bend this line up. Now we're ready to install the air inlet hat on the supercharger. We're gonna begin by pulling off the blue cover and since we clearanced the fan, we should be able to sneak the hat in there. You wanna install the supplied clamp and then we'll fish that through. It's gonna be a little bit of a struggle. So don't be scared. Once you have it on, you wanna wiggle it, point it up slightly, and then we can go and tighten that clamp up a little bit. You wanna make sure that you put the clamp in an accessible spot as there is not a lot of room in here. Next step, we're gonna install the coolant expansion tank and its bracket. We'll need to remove this plug here from our stock air box. And after cutting out the template in the back of the booklet, we're gonna drill our three holes and then we'll mount that bracket in. You're gonna need a 17/64 drill bit.So now that we have our holes drilled, we're gonna go ahead and bolt this bracket on. We're gonna have a plate and nuts for the bottom. So we're gonna go under and we're gonna bolt that together. All right. So we're gonna put the plate on, then we'll get all the nuts on and we'll tighten that bracket up. And to access this area, you can just peel the fender liner back and you'll be able to see the bolts. Using a 10-millimeter socket, you can tighten up the three bolts.Now that we have the bracket on, we'll take the new expansion tank, slide that down over the bracket, make sure that it clicks firmly. Once it's secure, we can go ahead and hook the line up. So now that we have that overflow tank installed, we're gonna go ahead and attach the new line. We'll remove the one from the factory, the overflow tank, and now we're gonna cut this to size and install that.So next, we're gonna install the PCV check valve. This is a one-way valve and it keeps boost from entering the crankcase. So we're gonna pull off this line here, inserting clamp. We'll attach that onto here, tighten our clamp up. Now that we have on there, we're gonna trim this a little bit and then we'll hook it onto there. Once again, install your clamp, insert that on there, and then we'll tighten our clamp up.Next step, we're gonna remove this evap line. We're gonna install this T-fitting in here. We'll have to trim this and attach that on here. We're gonna route this line down here and they provide you with zip ties so you can avoid all the drive belts. Now that we have our line connected from the blow off valve to our evap system, we have that all taken care of, and we'll move on to our next step. All right. So now we're ready to install the air filter. Go ahead, place that on. Hook these two lines up and move this line from this side right here to give us a little more length. And depending how tight the fit is, you may have to trim the fan some more to fit the air filter on. Looks like we have that fitting nicely. So we're gonna go ahead and tighten up our clamp. Now that we've completed the installation of the whole entire system, we're gonna reinstall the grill and tidy up some loose ends. The lower section of the grill just clicks in. We're gonna plug our lights back in. We're gonna reinstall the push pins in the top. Now, we're gonna reinstall the upper shroud. We're gonna insert the push pins. So we're ready to fill up the coolant system. We're gonna remove the cap. Use our funnel, and then we're gonna use the same coolant that we saved when we emptied the system out. So that's good enough for now. Once we get the vehicle started and purge the air bubbles out, we'll go ahead and top the rest off. As of right now, we're just gonna put some in the overflow and we'll fill that up. Congratulations. You've now completed your install of the RIPP supercharger. You're done. Close your hood. You're all finished. So if you're looking for an easy to install supercharger kit for your JK, I definitely recommend this option from RIPP, and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Increased Performance. Give your Wrangler more power on the open road with the RIPP Supercharger Intercooled Kit. This supercharger kit is designed to provide reliable HP and Torque gains with use of a Vortech V3 self contained centrifugal supercharger and upgraded PCM. The included Diablosport Tuner ensures you can fully adjust for tire size, gear ratio and more, to maximize power on and off the trail based upon your Wrangler's existing modifications.
PCM & Tuner. Your Wrangler requires an upgraded PCM for installation and use; Upon ordering we'll obtain your vehicle's VIN and Odometer reading to send out a new Diablo Modified PCM and DiabloSport inTune DCX. Changing the PCM only requires removing 4 screws and is easily removed or replaced. Your factory PCM can easily be reinstalled for dealership visits to eliminate any signs of tunes or computer modification when you need service work.
Intercooler. This kit includes a front mounted air to air intercooler to ensure performance by maintaining optimum operating temperatures. All the necessary tubes, fittings and hardware are included for a secure and exact fit.
100% Bolt on. This entire supercharger kit is 100% bolt on and won't require any drilling, cutting or additional modification to your rig. Complete installation takes approximately 6-8 hours. We recommend installation by an experienced mechanic or a shop specializing in performance mods.
Application. The RIPP Supercharger Kit Intercooled is designed for installation on 2015-2017 Jeep Wrangler 3.6l Pentastar V6 JK and JK Unlimited models. Please select your transmission from the options above.
Please Note. Ripp Superchargers are built to order for our customers and because of this, there can be a 2 to 4 week lead time on orders once your information is received. There will be a 20% Restocking Fee if the order is cancelled after the order is processed.
Fitment: 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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