Review & Install Video
Hey, guys. So, today I'm here with the Pro Comp 2-inch suspension lift kit with shocks, fitting all 1997 to 2006 TJ Wranglers. So, choosing a lift kit for your TJ can be a little bit tricky, there's a lot going on with your suspension, and you wanna make sure that you get the right lift kit for your application. This is gonna be for the TJ owner who's looking to add a mild height to their Wrangler with that two inches, to get some extra room inside their wheel well for larger wheels and tires, while also getting some better performance and some more room for articulation off-road, while still keeping it very comfortable with the hydraulic shock setup. Now, this is also gonna be for somebody who's looking to do a little bit of maintenance and a little bit of restoration, considering those shocks and springs can get pretty worn down over time. So, this is gonna be for that Jeep owner who's looking to do that restoration while also getting a very comfortable ride out of that.
Now, this is gonna be a pretty bare-bones lift kit, this is gonna come with the shocks as well as the springs. So, this is perfect for somebody who doesn't wanna get too involved in their suspension system but is also looking to build off of this. So, this isn't gonna come with any track bar relocation brackets, any bump stop extensions, or any other components. So, if you're looking to mix and match, this is perfect for somebody who's looking to do that.
So, as far as tire fitment goes, this is going to fit up to a 33-inch tire. Now, that's gonna give you a decent amount of room in the wheel well for some good up-travel, while still keeping a pretty good look, and not looking a little bit too small inside that wheel well. And as for 31s, and 32s, or the stock setup, they might look a little small, however, that's still going to fit, they're still going to give you all of that room inside that wheel well for the articulation or that up-travel that you may be looking for. So, as far as 35s go, I definitely would not recommend it, those are gonna be stuffed in that wheel well, you may get some rubbing from wheel lock to wheel lock, and also you're not gonna have a lot of room for up-travel. So, since this kit does not come with bump stops or bump stop extensions, you may be hitting the fender with a 35. So, I would stick with a 33-inch tire.
Now, price is going to be pretty affordable. Like I said before, this is going to be a pretty budget-friendly kit for what this kit comes with. So, like I mentioned before, this is gonna be a pretty affordable lift kit, at roughly $350, and I think that's a pretty fair price for what this lift kit comes with, and the quality of this lift kit. Now, when you're looking around at lift kits, the price can definitely vary from low to high, and that's usually going to fluctuate with the amount of components that are included in the kit. So, like I said, this is a pretty bare-bones kit, this is only gonna come with springs and shocks, and that's why it's gonna be more affordable in comparison to a more expensive lift kit that's usually going to come with track bar relocation brackets. They may even come with a track bar, or bump stop extensions, control arms, and so on. So, you can see why those are more expensive, in comparison to something like this where it's only springs and shock. So, overall, I think this is a pretty solid lift kit for somebody who's looking to get a mild lift out of their Wrangler, do some restorations, build off of it in the future, at a very affordable price point.
So, install is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and it will take a considerable amount of work in order to get this on, however, I'm gonna walk you step by step through that. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.
The tools that I used for my install were a couple of impact wrenches, electric and pneumatic, a pair of channel locks, a 19-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 15-millimeter, and 13-millimeter deep socket, an 18-millimeter, 15-millimeter, and 13-millimeter swivel socket, a 15-millimeter shallow impact socket, a dead blow, a 1/2-inch and 1/4-inch drive ratchet, a 19-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 15-millimeter open-ended wrench or box wrench, a 15 and a 9/16-inch ratcheting wrench, and then a 13-millimeter open-ended or box wrench, a 10-inch and 15-inch extension, a 13-millimeter and a 10-millimeter deep socket, non-impact, and a T55 and T40 Torx bit.
So, your first step is to get the Jeep up in the air and get the wheels off. Now, we're gonna be starting in the front, so you want to jack up the front of your Jeep if you're gonna be on the jack and jack stands, and chock the back wheels. Now, next we wanna support our axle. Since we're up on the lift, I have two pole jacks here so we can lower our axle and have it supported. And then our next step is to take off our sway bar end links. Now, we're just gonna be disconnecting the bottom, so you're gonna need a T55 Torx bit, and you're also gonna need an 18-millimeter wrench.
So, our next step is to take out the track bar bolt on the axle side, and that's gonna allow us to drop our axle just far enough so we can get our springs. I'm using a 15-millimeter socket and my impact wrench. So, our next step is to take out the lower shock bolts, however, there is a brake line bracket here that I do need to take off in order to access this front bolt on our lower shock body. So, I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket and a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, and just remove that bolt so we can get that brake line out of the way. All right. So, now that that's out of the way, we can grab a 13-millimeter socket and a 13-millimeter wrench and take out those lower bolts.
So, our next step is to remove the nut on the top of our shock body stud, I'm gonna be using a 9/16-inch ratcheting wrench in order to take that nut off. Now, you wanna make sure that you're holding the shock body still. So, we're gonna do the same exact thing on the other side, we also have that brake line bracket here that we need to take off.
So, before we go ahead and lower our axle, I do wanna take out this brake line bracket, just because I don't want to max out our brake line when we're lowering the axle. So, I'm gonna use a T40 Torx bit, and we're gonna go ahead and remove that Torx bolt. All right. Now we can do the same thing for the other side. So, after we have the axle low enough, what we can do is remove our springs.
So, before we go ahead and install our new suspension system, I wanted to tell you some more information about this new system, especially in comparison to your factory components. Now, overall, this is a very big upgrade from your factory system. First of all, it's a perfect replacement while also adding a little bit of height. So, as you can tell, our factory system is worn down and it has a lot of wear and tear in comparison to this upgraded system. Now, the spring itself is gonna be adding that extra height, but the shock is going to be accommodating for that added height and that added two inches.
Now, as far as the shocks go, there is two schools of thought when it comes to shocks, there's a gas charged shock and a hydraulic shock. Now, a gas charged shock is going to be for heavy duty usage, this is for people that are looking to do some heavy duty trails, bumps at fast speeds, just because it is a little bit stiffer and it is going to resist shock fade over time with that heavy duty usage. And then a hydraulic shock, on the other hand, is going to be more of a comfortable fluid-feeling shock, it's going to be more for the daily driver. And that's exactly how your factory shock is set up. So, it's not able to take all of that abuse, but it's still gonna be able to conquer some good trails while being very comfortable on the street. Now, that's exactly what this shock by Pro Comp is gonna be, the ES3000 is gonna be a twin-tube hydraulic shock, very similar to the factory. So, out of this kit, you're getting a very comfortable and fluid ride, but you're also gonna be able to conquer some lighter trails without experiencing any shock fade. So, enough about these two on the table side-by-side, let's go ahead and install our new system.
So, for our next step, what we're gonna do is install our springs. Now, we don't have any replacement bump stops, this kit doesn't come with them. But at this point, if you would need to replace your bump stops and your bump stop cups, I will go ahead and do that, but we are gonna go ahead and install our spring. There we go. So, after you have the spring in place, you just wanna make sure that the pigtail is set into the lower spring perch, and we can do the same thing on the other side.
All right. So, after both springs are in place, what we can do is start to raise up our axle, and then we can go ahead and piece everything back together. We wanna make sure that they're sitting correctly on the isolator. So, our next step is to install our new shock. Now, it's gonna come with new bushings as well as cup washers, and a new nut for this stud here. So, make sure you have the bushing and the cup washer on the bottom, then we can go ahead and put that through, then we can do the same thing for the top, the bushing and then the cup washer. So, after making sure that's in place, what we can do is thread on the top nut. So, once you have it on a couple of threads, we can take a 9/16-inch wrench, and go ahead and tighten that down.
So, I just put a pair of channel locks onto the top of the shock shaft here, just keep the thing from spinning while we tighten this down. So, you wanna make sure that that bushing is compressed but it's not bulging over. So, that looks about right, we'll torque it down in a minute, but now we can go ahead and attach the bottom of our shock. So, we're gonna attach this with that factory hardware. We can go ahead and tighten that down with our 13-millimeter wrench and socket socket. And then while we're here, we can go ahead and reattach this ABS brake line bracket. Still using that 10-millimeter socket, just to tighten that down back into the shock bracket. So, while we're on this side of the frame, I do wanna reattach our soft line brake line bracket, and I'm gonna use that same Torx bolt that we removed. So, after that's thread in a couple of threads, I'm gonna use the same T40 Torx socket to tighten that down. All right. Then we can do the same exact thing on the other side. So, last but not least, we have to reattach our sway bar end links, then we can tighten that back up with the T55 Torx socket and the 18-millimeter wrench that we used before.
So, we're finished up in the front for now, we still have to connect our track bar up at the front, but we need to do that when the Jeep is on its own weight on the ground so we can steer back and forth and get that into place, so we're gonna end up doing that last. So, we are in the rear now, we're supporting our axle with our pole jacks. Now, if, again, you are on jack and jack stands, you should chock the front wheels and then support the rear axle with some jack stands.
So, our next step is gonna be to disconnect our shocks. So, I'm using a 19-millimeter wrench and a 19-millimeter socket in order to do that. Now, this is replaced hardware, so your hardware and your tools may differ in size. You may have to put a little pressure on the axle to get that shock bolt out. So, after we disconnect the bottom of our shock, what we wanna do is disconnect the top. Now, there's gonna be two bolts holding in a bar pin, and it's gonna be a little bit difficult to see, just because they're tucked up into the frame of the Jeep. But I'm gonna be using a 13-millimeter swivel socket and a 15-inch extension, as well as my impact, to free those bolts. I also did soak them in PB B'laster, these are pretty difficult bolts to get out, so just be careful when you're doing so, you don't wanna break them. So, I did switch over to a deep socket, just because the swivel socket was too big to fit next to the shock body. So, once you have that loose, what you can do is actually unhook that bar pin and take out the shock, and then just keep removing the bolt. So, the bolt on our passenger side is a factory bolt, so I'm using a 15-millimeter wrench on the bolt-head side, and an 18-millimeter deep socket on the nut side. Making sure that our axle's supported so it doesn't drop down, go ahead and remove that bolt. All right. Gonna keep it in that bracket so when we take off the top bolt it doesn't fall down immediately. So, our next step is to disconnect our sway bar end links. Now, I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket for the bolt-head side and a 15-millimeter wrench for the nut side.
So, after we have our shocks and our sway bar end links out, we can start to do is lower our axle, keeping an eye on our brake lines and keeping an eye on our springs. So, what we're gonna do next is disconnect our track bar. Now, I would disconnect it from the axle side, however, the axle has not dropped low enough to clear our gas tank here. So, I'm gonna disconnect it from the frame side using a 15-millimeter socket on the bolt-head side and an 18-millimeter wrench on the nut side. I'm gonna take this off and start using a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench just to take that bolt out, I didn't want to wedge my ratchet up against the frame there. So, after that track bar is disconnected, we can continue to lower the axle down and get out our springs. Just wanna make sure that you're lowering it down pretty evenly. So, now that our axle is low enough, what we can do is just install in that same order that we took everything off, starting with our springs.
So, our next step is to reconnect our sway bar end links before we move on to our shocks, we're gonna take our factory hardware and just reconnect that bottom bolt, tightening it back down with an 18-millimeter socket and 15-millimeter wrench. So, what we have to do next is press in our metal sleeves as well as our bar pin so we can attach our rear shocks. Now, I did put a little bit of PB B'laster on each of the bushings just to make it a little bit easier, and I am gonna use my vise on the table for this, to press them in. So, I'm gonna start with the bottom. So, the bottom part, or the bottom of the shock, is gonna get the metal sleeve, and then the top is gonna get the bar pin, just like our factory shock. All right. So, that one is done. Now, this is the tricky part because this bar pin is a little bit wider, that's why I put a little bit of PB B'laster on it. You wanna make sure that you don't cut the bushing. So, once you have it started, what we can do is start to press it in.
So, once you have the bar pin pressed in, you just wanna make sure that it's centered inside the bushing, you will be able to turn it inside the bushing. So, once we go mount it up on the Jeep, you will be able to move this around. So, now we just have to press in that last sleeve down at the bottom and then we can mount up our shocks. All right. So, once those are pressed in, we can go mount them up on our Jeep.
So, we're gonna start mounting up our shocks with the top of the bar pin. Now, what I recommend to do for this since it is a little bit hard to reach and hard to see is just put in one of the bolts, preferably the harder side, which is going to be the side near the frame rail, and then you can hook the end of the bar pin on it and secure the other bolt, it makes it a little bit easier, and a little bit easier to work with. So, one is threaded on, and we'll capture it with the other side.
So, once those two are threaded on, we can just let it hang for a second and we can go grab our tools and tighten it down. So, I'm gonna go ahead and tighten this down with a 13-millimeter swivel socket and my 15-inch extension. I'm gonna start with the side that is towards the gas tank instead of the frame, then I'm just gonna grab the 13-millimeter deep socket that I used before for the frame side, go ahead and tighten that down. All right. Once that's tightened down, we can secure the bottom.
So, once you get the bottom of the shock in the lower shock mount, what we can do is take our factory bolt and wiggle that on through. You might have to tinker with the height of the axle in order to get that in. So, once that bolt is through, what we can do is take our 15-millimeter wrench and 18-millimeter socket, or whatever socket and wrench that you have for your specific hardware, and tighten that down. So, after everything's bolted up, we still have to reattach our rear and our front track bar. So, I'm gonna put the wheels and tires on, lower it down, put it on its own weight, and then we're gonna reattach those. So, in order to get the bolt in, you may have to wiggle the back end of the Jeep, and slide it through that metal sleeve inside the track bar. But once it's through, you can attach the nut on the back, and we can go ahead and tighten it down with a 15-millimeter socket on the bolt-head side, and then a 18-millimeter socket on the nut side. So, I ended up using a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench just because the bolt is still a little bit out, and I cannot clear my socket on there. But once it is tightened up a little bit, then we'll be able to put the socket on and completely tighten it and torque it down.
So, in order to get the front bolt in, you are gonna have to have somebody turn the wheel back and forth to line up the hole in the track bar mount. But once that is all the way through, you're gonna go ahead and reconnect that flag nut. So, once you have that flag nut started, you can tighten it down, I'm using a 15-millimeter swivel socket and a 5-inch extension just to clear the drag link here.
So, after you're finished mounting up those track bars, you will wanna get an alignment for your Wrangler. However, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install, make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right hear at extremeterrain.com.