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2.50-Inch Economy Spacer Lift Kit (18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL)

Item J133211-JL
ExtremeTerrain no longer carries the 2.50-Inch Economy Spacer Lift Kit (18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL). Please check out Jeep CJ7 Lift Kits 3-3.75" (1976-1986) for an updated selection.
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    Video Review & Installation

    Hey, guys. I'm Eric with ExtremeTerrain. In this video, we're gonna do a review and install of this 2.5-Inch Economy Spacer Lift Kit for all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. As it clearly states right in the name of this product, this kit is ideal for the Jeep Wrangler JL owner out there who's looking for an affordable option to simply lift their Jeep to accommodate larger tires, and they're not looking to necessarily spend all that extra money on more extreme kits that include a lot more components for a lot more extreme off-roading conditions. Now, the amount of lift you're gonna get out of this kit should easily allow you to accommodate 35-inch tires on your Jeep. Now, going any higher than that, you're gonna experience rubbing and some other complications with your Jeep. So, easily accommodate a 35 or a 33. Personally, I think 35 is the sweet spot for JL Wranglers, except the Rubicon of course. I think it provides a nice balance between off-road capability and rugged aggressive appearance. But of course, this kit is not targeting those of you out there who are looking to do more extreme off-roading, because we are gonna be including bump stop spacers in there. So, we're really not adding a whole lot of wheel travel capability. This is more about lifting your Jeep to accommodate those larger tires.Now, because this kit is targeting that added room for larger tires, it includes all the components that you need for a good basic lift. We're gonna have coil spring spacers, bump stop spacers, as well as lengthened brackets for mounting the shock absorbers and lengthened sway bar links. Now, these basic components are not very showy, but they are durable and they are covered in a thick black powder coat that is gonna protect them against corrosion and give you long-lasting lifespan. Now, this kit comes in right around $250. As you can tell, that's a much more affordable option compared to the more complex suspension kits out there that can run you up to several thousand dollars. Now, what you see here on the table is basically everything included in the kit, except for the nuts and bolts. So, basically, we are gonna be reusing the factory shocks with this Jeep. Now, if you're looking to upgrade your shock absorbers for your Jeep like the ones we sell here at, this would be a good time to do that as well.So, speaking of the installation, guys, I'm giving this a very solid three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You're gonna need to budget a full day of your time to get this job done unless you have a lot of experience doing this kind of work. Now, it's nothing crazy exotic in terms of the tools you're gonna need. You will need a fair amount of tools to get this job done and we'll go over that in a second. However, we are going to be lifting our vehicle, so anytime you're doing that at home with a floor jack and jack stands, you wanna make sure you're taking your time to do that safely. So, speaking about the install and the tools needed, let's take a look at those right now and move on with the installation. Okay. The tools we're gonna use for this installation, guys, include a pneumatic impact driver, a pneumatic ratcheting wrench, pair of snips, some needlenose pliers, some safety glasses, 6-millimeter Allen socket, 10-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 19-millimeter, and 21-millimeter sockets, some protective gloves, a 14-millimeter angled wrench, 14-millimeter crescent, 14-millimeter ratcheting, 17-millimeter and 18-millimeter crescents, an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 19-millimeter crescent wrench, a pry bar, pair of hand socket wrenches, and a can of PB B'laster.All right, guys, as you can see, we have our Jeep up on a lift. Now, if you're lucky enough to have access to a lift, it makes things a lot easier. But if you're doing this at home, and you're jacking up your Jeep, just make sure that when you get it jacked up and you support the frame of the jack stands, make sure you're gonna have enough room on the underside to be able to drop your axle down at least 3 inches or more so that eventually, you're gonna drop the axle down enough that we can get the springs out to put the spacers in. So, you wanna get the Jeep itself up high enough to be able to do that. So, what we're gonna do conceptually is disconnect anything that is gonna prevent us from drooping that axle. And we're gonna start at our sway bar end links because of course the kit comes with new ones that are longer and we're gonna replace those. So, let's go ahead and get started. All right, first, we're gonna go after the bolt here on the bottom of our driver-side sway bar end link. These are 18s on both sides. If you have a crescent wrench and a ratcheting wrench, that's awesome. You can use a socket wrench over here as well.All right, now that bolt we took out of there, don't discard that. We're gonna reuse that later when we put on the new link. Now, up top here, again it's an 18. Now, if it starts turning in there like it's doing right now, you're gonna need to get a 6-millimeter Allen socket and put that up inside to keep it from moving on you. And you can go ahead and repeat those same steps for your sway bar link on your passenger side. All right, guys, next we're gonna disconnect the bolt that is connecting our track bar to the axle. This is a 21-millimeter right here. And as you can see, your axle is gonna shift a little bit towards the passenger side when you do that. Okay, guys, back up here at the driver side, we're gonna take this bolt out on the bottom end of our shock absorber using an 18-millimeter crescent and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Now, what you guys probably saw there, I struggled a little bit to get this out. What your factory shock absorber is gonna wanna do is pull up on you. As you can see, it's currently sitting a little bit higher than the bracket itself. So, with your floor jack, lift this axle up just a little bit to release some of that tension. And then I just used a pry bar in here on the inside of the bolt to kind of pry it and pull it out. Once you relieve that tension, it'll come out, no problem, and do that on the other side as well.All right, next thing we're gonna do is gonna remove the nut and bracket here for this. This bracket basically keeps your brake lines snug in here and keeps them up out of the way of anything. We're gonna need that for more slack as we droop the axle down. Now, if we're permanently installing this on our Jeep, which we are not, this is only for demonstration purposes, but you at home, you're gonna be doing this permanently to your Jeep, you're probably going to want to cut this bracket and get your brake lines out of this bracket in order that you have that slack permanently. Now, my only warning there is if you're gonna do that, make sure if you use a cutting wheel or whatever you're using to cut it, keep it away from the brake lines. If you don't feel comfortable cutting it, if you don't feel comfortable in your personal skill level or experience over doing that, you can get some pliers or a set of vise-grips up in here. This is merely a metal flange that comes and wraps around those lines. You can pry that open to free up the brake lines. So, right now we're gonna go ahead and take this out.This is a 15-millimeter nut that we just took off and you're gonna have an identical bracket on a passenger-side, you're gonna need to do the same thing. All, right, guys, next we're going to pull out the vent tube which is this tube right here and we're gonna use a set of pliers to pinch this clip and allow us to do that. And if your Jeep is equipped with the electronic locking differential, you'll have to unplug that wiring harness as well at this step. We don't have that on this Jeep so we're not gonna do that. All right, guys, in order to get some slack in this line here, we have a plug right here, we're just gonna use some pliers. And this is under the passenger side of the axle. Okay, if you trace these lines further up, guys, we've got two more clips that are holding it to the frame rail. We're just gonna undo those, again, to give us plenty of slack to droop the axle. Okay, at this stage of the uninstall, we're going to start lowering our front axle. If you're doing this at home with a floor jack, just do it nice and slow. Your axle really shouldn't shift a whole lot. It's still got a lot of connection points to your Jeep's frame but we just wanna do it slowly. And we're gonna get it down just enough so that we can get our coil springs out of there.If it's your first time going to get your springs out, things might be a little tight. If you have dirt caked up on there, it's gonna make things stick a little bit. So, I'm just kind of testing as we go to see how far down I need to drop the axle. And as you're trying to get your coil spring out of there, guys, if your sway bar is getting in the way at all, don't forget it's disconnected on the lower end on both sides, you could go ahead and push it up like that and get it up out of the way. Now you can go over to the passenger side and remove that coil spring as well. All right, guys, now I have one of the front spacers in my hands right here. Before we can put it on, we have to remove the rubber isolator up top because this is gonna sit on top of that rubber isolator. That isolator is gonna be between the top of the spring and the spacer. This should just come down and come right off. Now that I took it off here, on the top of our rubber isolator, you see there's two little rubber nibs right there that are sticking up. We have one indentation that will help us line it up and keep it from spinning on our spacer. So, since we only have one, we're gonna trim one of these off, just grab a pair of snips. That way, this will line up like that and will sit on our Jeep like that. So right now, we can go ahead and push it up into place.There's just enough tension there that should hold it up into place as long as you don't sneeze or breathe too hard. All right, so now we have our spring ready to go up in the place. Grab one of your front bump stop isolators. You're gonna want that inside the spring as we put it up in place. The other thing to bear in mind when you're putting your spring into place is you're gonna wanna turn it so that the end of the spring coil seats in properly in the groove in the lower isolator. You'll see what I mean when you kind of get it into place, it's self-explanatory but something to keep in mind for proper alignment of your spring.All right, now to secure our bump stop spacer in here, go ahead and grab this 3-inch long bolt out of your kit and matching washer and nuts. These are 14-millimeters both at the nut end and at the bolt head end, and go ahead and tighten those down. Now, the tricky part is gonna be you have to feed the washer and the nut up in here like this. If you have an angled tool like this that fits a 14-millimeter, that's gonna help you out a lot but you're still gonna have to get your fingers up in there to study the nut onto the bolt. And you can use the identical steps in hardware to do that on the passenger side.All right, guys, now we're going to mount the shock absorber extension bracket on here for the front. You're gonna wanna grab the ones that are shaped like this and that are squared off around the bottom. On the rears, you'll see there's, like, a little half-moon-like shape on the bottom side of the bracket. You'll notice what I'm talking about when you look at your kit. So, this is the one you're gonna need for the front. Go ahead and grab one of these short bolts. It's a 14-millimeter. We're gonna mount it up through the bottom like that. Grab the washer. These are lock nuts. So, once you get them cinched on, they should be on there fairly tight. And these are 14-millimeters. Now, you're gonna wanna get these snug but not all the way tightened because we're gonna wanna make sure we have a little bit of play in here so we can line up this bolt hole as well. All right, next step is to throw the bolt through here, go ahead and grab the factory bolt and nut that we took out during the uninstall. Also, grab one of these crush sleeves out of your kit. That's gonna thread in in the middle like that. You can make this finger-tight, then go ahead and grab your 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter crescent and tighten it down.Okay, now that you have this bracket on, we can go ahead and tighten up this bolt in here on the bottom side, tighten this one up as well. Repeat that on the passenger side with the bracket over there, tightening up both bolts, and then you're gonna wanna lift your axle back up so that the top part of the bracket this hole lines up with the bottom of your shock. Now, I noticed when I was doing it, this bracket's a little tight. You need to get some pliers in here up top on the bracket and kind of bend it outward just slightly. You might need to do that to get your shock absorber to fit in there. So, go ahead and grab out one of these 65-millimeter bolts. That's roughly 2.5 inches. But you'll see what bolts I'm talking about. You're gonna need a 19-millimeter socket to tighten these up. So go ahead and push the bolt in from the backside with this. You have to adjust your axle a little bit. Go ahead and grab a washer and you're gonna need a 19-millimeter on both sides.Now, as you're doing this with all this hardware in here, there are torque specs in the instruction booklet that comes with this kit. So, make sure you're following those when you're doing your final tightening. All right, so after you've tightened down your shock bracket on the passenger side and of course make sure you're following the torque specifications in your manual, go ahead and grab your sway bar links, the new ones out of the kit, as well as another one of these large bolts. And this time, we're gonna be using a washer and one of the two nylon thread locker nuts that are included in the kit. There's a little offset to the link. It's gonna fit right in between like this. Go ahead and fish this through. Start the one up top. And again using a 19-millimeter, we're gonna tighten it down. Then down below, we're gonna use the factory bolt that came off the Jeep during the uninstall. These are 18-millimeters. All right, go ahead and use your factory bolt. Now, with your factory stuff, we're gonna need an 18-millimeter socket and wrench for this one. Go ahead and repeat this on the other side and get your passenger side sway bar link all connected.Okay, now that we have our sway bar links on, go ahead and reconnect your differential vent tube. Get it started there and pliers. And continuing the theme of reconnecting things we disconnected earlier, go ahead and put these retaining clips back in. Now, this is on the passenger side frame rail directly above the axle. And any other harnesses, if you have electronically disconnecting sway bars or the electronic locking differential harness, if you had unplugged that earlier, go ahead and reconnect that now. Now, at this stage of our work here in our garage, we have our Jeep up on a lift obviously. So, you guys at home, if you're doing this on jack stands using a floor jack as well, you're gonna wanna put the wheels and tires back on the front end of your Jeep and gently lower the Jeep back onto its own weight. That way, you can line up your track bar and reconnect it here at the axle like we disconnected earlier. That would be the next step for you. We will show you that in the video here. But as for now, we have it up on a lift. So, we're gonna go ahead and move to the rear of the Jeep and continue our installation back there.Okay, guys, now we're at the rear of our jeep. Once you have everything lifted up, and of course your axle supported, again, just like we did on the front side, make sure that's all nice and stable and secure. We're gonna go ahead and start disassembling some things just like we did on our front end, and it's kind of repetitive from the front end, just a little bit different. So, let's get into that right now. All right, first thing, we're gonna take a 21-millimeter socket to the track bar at the axle end. And we're gonna disconnect the lower end of our shock absorber, 18-millimeters on both sides. And your shock is gonna wanna pull up. So if you need to adjust the height of your axle to kind of release a little tension, go ahead and do that. All right, now we're gonna disconnect the lower end of our driver-side sway bar link. Again, these are 18s. Once you have those out, you can repeat those same steps in the passenger side of the Jeep. All right, now we're gonna disconnect the top part of our sway bar end link here. Go ahead and grab a 6-millimeter socket and I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter ratcheting. Get your wrench on there first and then the socket in there to hold the center part in place.All right, guys, go ahead and grab one of the rear spacer blocks for the bump stop. Go ahead and set it on this little shelf right here. Then grab these three-quarter-inch bolts and corresponding washer and nut. You're gonna have to feed the bolt up through the bottom and we'll just get that started. And these are 14-millimeters on both sides and we'll tighten that up in a second. We have another bolt on the other side of this block. All right, using 14-millimeters on both sides here, [inaudible 00:23:44]. Go ahead and repeat that with a spacer block on the passenger side. All right, at this point, you're ready to let your axle come down a little bit. And we need it to come down just far enough so we can get enough clearance to get the springs out. So, we're gonna go ahead and do that. And as you're doing this, we'll see like that there, the spring will come loose. I'm gonna need a couple more twists, about an inch or so. And for the driver's hand, driver side spring, pry better off going to the front of the axle like I am and then pulling it down on the side. Go ahead and get your passenger side spring out as well.All right, to get started, go ahead and grab one of the rear spacers, another one of these 65-millimeter bolts, which again are about 2.5 inches long, and then one of these welded nut plates right here. You're gonna slide the nut plate up top so that it's visible down below. Then we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket and an extension. The bolt's gonna go up through the bottom, and try getting this started by hand first. If your spacer spins in there like mine is right now, no big deal. There's no specific orientation that you need to maintain. I have that finger-tight right now, so I'm just gonna go ahead and tighten that up with my impact wrench. Go ahead and repeat this on the driver's side as well. All right, guys, now I'm holding one of the rubber isolators that goes on top of the rear springs. It has this knob right here, we're gonna go ahead and cut that off. Otherwise, that's not gonna allow us to have a nice flush fit on the top of...up against the spacer block. All right, so to get the spring back in here, go ahead and put your isolator back on top. And if you can see this right here, make sure that's flush up against the end of your spring.All right, guys, now I have to get the driver's side spring mounted up in place. We're gonna go ahead and put on these extension brackets for the shock absorbers. The brackets for the rear end of the vehicle are shaped like this on the bottom, kind of a half-moon, kind of curved edge right there. And we're also gonna use a larger bolt for the bottom mounting than we did on the front. The ones on our front were slightly smaller. These are about an inch long, and they're also thicker in diameter. So, when you put this bracket on, this curved piece is gonna point towards the front of the vehicle. You're gonna wanna drop this bolt in from the top. Otherwise, it's gonna be too tight to work in there. And again, we'll just start that with finger-tight for now. And we'll use our tools to tighten it up. Now, we're gonna reuse the factory bolt that came out when we disconnected the shock absorber earlier and it's gonna go through this bottom hole here. And now we can go ahead and tighten these up. This bottom bolt here takes a 19-millimeter on both sides. Now we're gonna finish tightening this up. If I didn't say it already, the hardware that comes with your kit is a 19-millimeter on both sides. And we'll tighten up our factory bolt, and that's an 18 on both sides. And I just realized, guys, we do have a crush sleeve that needs to go in here. So, I'm gonna take this bolt back out real quick. Now, if that's in there, you can go ahead and tighten it up. Got an 18-millimeter crescent and socket.All right, now we're gonna reattach a sway bar end link here in the passenger side. We're gonna grab a new one out of the kit. We're gonna reuse the factory bolt that we removed earlier. And using 19-millimeter, we're gonna tighten it up. All right, once you have all your hardware and bracketing for the other side of your axle done here, then you can go ahead and lift your axle back up. And what you're looking to do is line up the top bracket holes here with the bottom of your shock. So, once you have that lined up, go ahead and grab another one of these 2.5-inch long bolts and a washer, and a nut. Feed that in and then we'll tighten it up. These are 19-millimeters on both sides. Go ahead and repeat that for the other shock. All right, now we're gonna start with our sway bar end links. Go ahead and grab the ones out of the kit. And then we're going to start on top here. All right, then go ahead and grab an 18-millimeter socket and crescent wrench. Go ahead and tighten this up here. We'll go ahead and do the bottom. Okay, now for the bottom end of the sway bar link, go ahead and grab one of the 2.5-inch bolts out of the kit. Slide it through and we'll hand-start a washer and a nut. And the hardware of the kit is a 19-millimeter on both sides here, nut and bolt. Then go ahead and repeat this on the other side.Okay, at this point, all we're gonna have left to do is reinstall the bolts that attach our track bars to our axles. We have to do it both front and rear. If you're doing this one side at a time in your garage, you might have already done the front end but we're gonna show you how to do that. There is a couple little tips and tricks to get that done. But in order to do that, you're gonna have to put the wheels and tires back on your Jeep, get it down on its own weight, and then we'll show you how to adjust it and tighten those things up. With the Jeep back on its own weight, we're gonna go ahead and line up our track bar and re-insert the factory bolt. Also reusing that flag nut that we have and we're gonna tighten this up using a 21-millimeter socket. Okay, now we have our track bar bolt, we're gonna have it installed right here guys. I have a partner inside the Jeep who is going to turn the steering wheel left and right till we can get this to line up.Okay, guys, that brings this installation to a wrap. Of course, anytime you're doing suspension work, make sure you're getting an alignment done on your vehicle. Make sure every bolt that we displayed here during this installation video, you torque down to the specifications according to the instruction booklet, or according to factory specs from Jeep. And of course, that pretty much wraps up this installation for the Economy 2.5-Inch Spacer Lift for all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs. And of course, for all things Wrangler, keep it right here at

    Product Information

    Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


    • Spacer Lift Kit
    • Lifts Jeep by 2.50 Inches
    • Enhances Stance and Improves Off-Road Stability
    • Reuses Factory Shocks and Springs
    • Includes Coil and Shock Spacers
    • Comes With Sway Bar Links
    • Supports Up to 35-Inch Tires
    • Bolt-On Installation With Mechanical Expertise
    • Made in the USA
    • Designed for All 2018-2022 Jeep Wrangler JL Models


    Aggressive Off-Road Stance. The 2.50-Inch Economy Spacer Lift Kit will enable you to easily accommodate 35-inch tires on your JL, provide better ground clearance, and improve off-road dynamics. It features front and rear sets of durable spring and shock spacers, sway bar links, and bump stops, designed to enhance the factory components. This lift system significantly improves off-road performance while maintaining excellent on-road handling.

    Enhanced Damping. The high-quality shock and coil spacers in this lift system are designed to give your JL a quick and easy lift. These blocks significantly aid in damping and stability. In addition, the bump stops improve your ride quality by limiting the upward motion of the axles and soften the blow by absorbing the rebound.

    Proper Steering and Handling. The included sway bar links in this Economy Spacer Lift Kit maintain stability during turns while ensuring precise steering and handling. These are designed to reduce vehicle body roll and improve handling when cornering by keeping the suspension stable and maintaining equal weight distribution when making a sharp turn.

    Bolt-On Installation. This 2.50-Inch Economy Spacer Lift Kit comes with components that directly attach to your vehicle’s factory mounting locations. It includes all the necessary hardware for a hassle-free installation process that requires mechanical expertise.

    Application. The 2.50-Inch Economy Spacer Lift Kit is intended for use on all 2018-2022 Jeep Wrangler JL models.

    CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

    Installation & What's in the Box

    Installation Info

    What's in the Box

    • (2) Front Coil Spring Spacers
    • (2) Rear Coil Spring Spacers
    • (2) Front Shock Spacers
    • (2) Rear Shock Spacers
    • (2) Front Bump Stops
    • (2) Rear Bump Stops
    • (2) Front Sway Bar Links
    • (2) Rear Sw

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